|
Carburetor
by: geh3333 - Jun 11, 2015 15:48:25 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 15:48:25 GMT -5
In pa , even a 49cc must be registered and insured.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 15:45:26 GMT -5
If you suspect its the pilot, then def adjust the air fuel before changing the pilot. Did you tune the carb for highest idle rpms ? I don't think you need to lean it out at all. If you don't have any other pilot jets to test out. Idfirst adjust the carb , tune it for the highest idle rpm. If that doesn't work I'd replace the 106 with a 108 main. From what many say, the main jet kicks in pretty early in the throttle range. So if it were the pilot , I'd expect problems much earlier then 4000 rpms. If the main begins to kick in around 4-5k rpms then it is possibility the main is not letting in enough fuel. Stock main jets vary , I be heard some say 105 was their stock and I've even heard some say higher and lower . so I believe a 106 after letting in more air is kind of small.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 15:33:16 GMT -5
If you suspect its the pilot, then def adjust the air fuel before changing the pilot. Did you tune the carb for highest idle rpms ?
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 14:27:10 GMT -5
I agree , but if it were me , I'd upjet instead of just raising the needle. 106 is small with a uni installed. I know you still have the stock exhaust , but installing the uni still let in more air. This is my whole point about these scoots " even stock bore" can take much more air and fuel then others think. You just install a uni and the engine is already screaming for more fuel. I'm not saying he should by a bigger carb. I'm just explaining how these scoots can gain from a bigger carb . of course you can jut keep up jetting your stock carb , but it will be more restrictive then a bigger carb. I think a 26mm carb would be just fine on a stock setup. Problem Is , I've never tried it , so I cannot varify that.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 14:10:37 GMT -5
My variator doesn't have any Teflon coating. I'm starting to think it's from the clutch assembly and clutch pads. I noticed my take offs are somewhat jerky. Like the clutch grabs the bell almost instantly, than slips a few times before it solidly engages and I pull away. Clutch pad dust? But still weird why it would all gather inside the variator. Other than that I have no clue the source. Weights look fine, belt is fine, there is no Teflon coating, just simple stock variator I believe your correct. If the belt and rollers seem ok , then that only leaves the clutch pads. But man , that's a lot of dust , and in a very short time . I'd tear the clutch completely apart and inspect everything. Remember to grease the clutch bearings when you reintall the clutch.
|
|
|
FFWWAOOOMP!
by: geh3333 - Jun 11, 2015 14:00:04 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 14:00:04 GMT -5
I'd def get an oil temp gauge for your scoots. That way If you notice a jump in temp , you can do a quick test to see if the pump is still working, or possibly another issue.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 12:48:50 GMT -5
That is true . I've also seen this said before . the polishing slows the flow of fuel . its like the fuel sticks to the polished surface . Bingo, Hit the nail right on the head. Velocity is Very, Very Important, I.m not in much favor of throwing on considerable larger Carb's for the same Velocity reason, The Stocker or just a little larger already Out Flows what the Engine can use. Big Carb, Large Port is like Flushing a Toilet into a Straw. That's the issue others had also , with bigger carbs. However it seems as if these scoots may be under carbed from the start. I'm only a fan of using a bigger carb if you install a bigger head with bigger intake and exaust ports . also a bigger manifold with a uni filter and a high flow exhaust. If I and others haven't had the success we've had , I would never push installing a bigger carb. But it seems as if these scoots can handle more air and fuel then we first thought. It would be nice to have the equipment to be able to test how much air and fuel these babies can handle, but that would be an expensive test.
|
|
|
Timing
by: geh3333 - Jun 11, 2015 12:40:02 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 12:40:02 GMT -5
Yep , you def want to adjust the valves also .
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 12:38:02 GMT -5
Hairdryer trick worked perfectly. Now there's just a faint ghost outline of the graphics left over on the front faring. It actually looks kind of cool so I'm going to leave it as is. I used the same method to remove the powersports sticker from the original dealer. The same writing that was on the front faring is on each side panel behind the seat. For now I'm going to leave it be. I will remove it later if I decide I don't like it. Thanks again, guys! No problem
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 12:36:24 GMT -5
I'm going to just buy a brand new puck, along with a new speedo Hopefully that fixes the problem. Last time I checked the speedo pucks and speedos . I noticed many said they would work on The 50cc - 150cc !! That's kind of strange considering there are a few different wheel sizes. No wonder the speedos are so off .
|
|
|
FFWWAOOOMP!
by: geh3333 - Jun 11, 2015 12:32:25 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 12:32:25 GMT -5
Your gonna have to keep an eye on her . since she wasn't getting any oil to the head or the crank bearings. She was def overheating , hopefully no damage was done.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 12:26:04 GMT -5
I used GPS to verify my speedo , and it seems my speedo is ok. The sign was off by about 3mph . Funny thing was that both signs in passed were 3 mph off , but yesterday they were spot on . I'm def gonna have to make another video . I'm guessing I'm between 68-70 on a straight run now. I've had her at 80 mph down hill before , so I have no worries about the rod.
|
|
|
FFWWAOOOMP!
by: geh3333 - Jun 11, 2015 12:19:30 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 12:19:30 GMT -5
I was in a hurry the last time I replaced the oil pump and forgot to drain the oil. I ended up with a mess on my porch. I mixed some gas with the oil and lit it up !! I had a nice little bonfire on my porch.
|
|
|
FFWWAOOOMP!
by: geh3333 - Jun 11, 2015 12:16:25 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 11, 2015 12:16:25 GMT -5
So just in case anyone else ever has this question; Do you need to drain the oil to work on the pump? Answer is yes. No one here seemed to know, no manual said to remove the oil, just says open it and replace the pump. I have oil going to the head now after replacing the pump. Sorry lain I was busy the last day or so and didn't see you ask about draining the oil . you def have to drain the oil or you will have a mess !
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jun 9, 2015 21:54:41 GMT -5
Jerry is 100% correct. You are lucky if you have an accurate speedo. I'm one of the lucky ones. I just rechecked my speedo 2day with a speedo app on my phone , and it is dead on .
When you say your going to buy a new speedo puck ,do you mean your going to try to find a different puck gearing , or are you just going to buy a new OEM speedo puck? Unless the puck is bad ,there is no reason to buy he's.
|
|