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Post by geh3333 on Jun 9, 2015 20:40:57 GMT -5
Touching on Polishing. I'll try to explain, excuse the verbiage may not be exacting. On the Intake side we are working with Atomization, it needs to be left scratched up, Polishing will create a surface tension drag of the intake charge. You won't see a head from Mitch Payton to Robert Yates and all in-between with polished Intake Ports Two or Four Stroke. A Shark skin is not Smooth, for it to create incredible bursts of speed it has a rough texture to break the surface tension of the water. If ya just want to make something look pretty with 0 gain polish the exhaust port. Polish the Exhaust port ending with a Jewelers Rouge, She'll be Mirror finish but does "0" That is true . I've also seen this said before . the polishing slows the flow of fuel . its like the fuel sticks to the polished surface . |
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FFWWAOOOMP!
by: geh3333 - Jun 9, 2015 18:37:05 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 9, 2015 18:37:05 GMT -5
Thanks that helps a lot! Looking at my old jug I can see the shape you are talking about, and I think I may have found gasket pieces in the oil that may have come off the crescent shape because the gaskets seem to overlap into the crescent shape a bit nomattter how perfectly I place them. I am guessing my oil passage may be clogged with gaskt pieces. I remember finding gasket pieces in my oil a couple months ago but when I did not find anymore I thought it was okay. Did you test to see if the pump was working ? I doubt its clogged. If no oil is getting to the head , 9 times out of 10 the pump is bad. If you do the oil pump test , and find that is bad , let me know and I'll give you a run through on what to do to change it . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 9, 2015 7:50:48 GMT -5
Ital, I'm not here to put you down or make you feel bad but just being honest, this Head work is a total Butcher job. The Intake tract goes in then has Two Dip down dimples on each side of the Valve guide, This should be a Flat Transition into the Bowls, this will cause a Flow "Eddie". The Exhaust has been Hogged out to wear the sealing ring for the header pipe is essentially gone. Will never get the header pipe to seal, The Head is now junk. geh333 is correct in the Header Pipe Diameter will be smaller than the Exh. Port, Now the Head Pipe will restrict the entire flow. Sorry for the news but Best of Luck Yeah , from the pics it doesn't look good. It looks as if they used a dremmel and didn't even attempt to smooth out or polish the ports. When it comes to the exhaust port , I never use the donut type gaskets , just the full metal type gasket . it seems as if it seals just fine , but I'm not sure about the lines that were left on the face of the exhaust port. They might cause the Exhaust to leak. It sucks that even if you would want to use both exhaust gaskets, you will not be able to use the donut type. I hate sounding negative , but there is really no way around it. Who did you have do the head work ? I really hope the head works out for you and you don't have any problems . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 9, 2015 3:38:26 GMT -5
JerryScript, ital, geh3333 so i put her all back together and i tried to start her but she would not start. I've changed a lot of parts and i put on the ncy 30mm carb as well. I am not sure if its a fuel to air ratio problem. I know the carb was empty of gas, but not sure how many tries would it take. I tried about 5 times enough to kill the battery and put my trickle charger on. anyway i am a noob at this. how many turns out should I set the air to fuel screw at first to get her started? If you cranked the scoot 5 times and the battery died , I'd say you really need to charge the battery. A weak battery will have issues starting a scoot with a bbk. I suggest using jumper cables , and hook her up to a car battery while you try to start her for the first time. It also may take more then the 5 tries to get the scoot started for the first time. Open the drain for the carb bowl , crank the scoot until you begin to see fuel running from the drain. Close the drain and go at it again , this way yozuz know there is fuel to the carb. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 21:34:04 GMT -5
The hair dryer works great. I was surprised how easy they peel off with it. |
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FFWWAOOOMP!
by: geh3333 - Jun 8, 2015 20:21:05 GMT -5
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lain likes this
Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 20:21:05 GMT -5
Overheating can def cause issues that would make the crank turn over easy. I'm really concerned about the dry head. I would have destroyed my engine of I did not have a temp gauge. Without a temp gauge , by the time you realize your scoot is overheating , its too late , and damage very well may have already been done.
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FFWWAOOOMP!
by: geh3333 - Jun 8, 2015 17:00:01 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 17:00:01 GMT -5
Do an oil pump test . take the valve cover off and start the scoot. If the pump is working it will pump oil to the cam and rocker arms. If it is not working , no oil will be seen flowing to the head . if the pump is shot , there is a chance the engine is almost shot at this point. This is where a oil temp gauge is so important. I bet your engine is overheating and causing the noises, and the poor performance. You would have seen the temps rise and caught it early if you had a temp gauge. These scoots should have one but I guess its up to us to install one. Very very important
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 15:47:09 GMT -5
I would use new oil , but I'm sure it will be fine . I'd go on a 20 mile ride , then change the oil. After that you can go about 50 to 100 miles before the next change. The first couple changes are the most important . this is usually the time you'll find the biggest pieces of metal in the oil. If I remember correctly I changed the oil every 100 miles after the first 2 changes , up to 500 miles or so. I may have gone a little overboard , but its worth being safe.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 15:33:31 GMT -5
I think 1k spring is the way to go. I have a 1500 RPM spring and I think I lost some speed as soon as I put it on. I would only go with a heavier main spring if you are stuck not being able to hit near 7500 rpms , or if you are able to hit 7500 rpms with lighter weights but the belt won't climb fully on the variator because you have to use too light of weights to hit that rpm. The heavier main springs will allow for heavier weights with higher rpms. But you have to hope the heavier weights will help open the clutch pulley fully with the heavier main spring. Its has to be tuned perfect , especially with this K&S variator. I can't wait to see if I hit 70 on a straight run. I'll have to do another speed run video ! |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 14:48:20 GMT -5
Since I cleaned up my belt , i went for a short test run with a 1000 main spring and 16 gram rollers . I hit 63 on a small incline that I usually hit 60 " on a good day". Sometimes I only hit 59 . my rpms where a little high so I replaced the 16's with 16.5 gram weights. It gonna be raining for the next day or so , so I'll have to wait to test her out again. I also might have a speedo issue. Yesterday , every roadside radar sign I passed said I was going 3mph faster then what my spedo said . it also felt as if I was going faster , but I'm not sure . I'll have to test the speedo out with GPS again. If my speedo is behind 3 mph then I really picked up some speed fro cleaning this belt , but I'm not sure about that.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 14:31:43 GMT -5
I just saw a youtube video where a guy changes his belt by squeezing the rear pullery and slipping the belt over the variator. There's no way I can do that on mine. I have to remove the top of the variator,squeeze the rear pulley,place the belt, then re-install the top of the variator. Does this seem normal? Yes that's normal . I also have to do that. You may be able to get it off if you are able to open the clutch pulley fulley , then hold it there. But it seems much easier just to remove the drive face. You would also have to hold the variator open with something . I bet I can change a belt just as fast with an impact . by the time they get the clutch held open and secured the variator , I'd have the new belt just about on. Now for a road side change , it would come in handy to be able to remove the belt that way. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 14:24:57 GMT -5
I have a jonway also , but all I have to do is remove the headlight cover. Some of them all you have to do is reach up under the front fairing and you can get to the headlights.
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Belt wear
by: geh3333 - Jun 8, 2015 12:50:21 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 12:50:21 GMT -5
Couldn't you make a scoop like the flywheel fan cover scoop? Route air in over the entire drive face. Like cut holes around the variator and clutch, put a screen over the variator area on the outside, put a scoop on to catch and force more air into the cvt over the variator, maybe your old scoop from before the crash. I was thinking you can hook up a radiator hose to the front of the CVT where the rubber piece is , run the hose into the empty floor compartment and connect a small fan up . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 11:07:45 GMT -5
Another good idea is not to buy avariator with the Teflon coating. It seems as if most of the more expensive variators don't have the coating. I had one put out so much dust that it jammed the boss inside the variator. I had to pound the boss out of the variator !! This has happened to me on other peoples bikes also, teflon "glued" the boss and variator together due to heat i believe. The Teflon coating is obviously just a gimmick |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 8, 2015 10:44:54 GMT -5
I can get a couple small sheets off aluminum , cut out the two pieces and throw it together for pretty cheap . even paint it.
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