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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 22:57:11 GMT -5
How many miles on the new to End? Yes stick with a Dino Oil for a few hundred miles. Almost 200 miles now, the whether got cold, I can feel it performs better, not sure if is the whether or the engine braking in, perhaps both. I will take another compression reading and see what it shows. I used regular 10w40 Pennzoil for break in . then switched to royal purple within the first 100 miles. The rings should seat within the first 20 miles. I have nearly 20k on my setup and still going strong. Its always good to be safe , so waiting 500 miles till you switch to a synthetic is not a bad idea. |
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Oil leaking
by: geh3333 - Jun 21, 2015 22:52:42 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 22:52:42 GMT -5
Can't you still use that head and just get a 4 bolt valve cover ?
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 22:50:14 GMT -5
I got it. Used a slightly different approach. Thanks I did post a full explanation in detail how I did it ....but now that reply is gone? Too much to retype. Not sure what happened? Tell us the short version , lol |
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Center stand
by: geh3333 - Jun 21, 2015 21:13:35 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 21:13:35 GMT -5
I took mine off years ago and I just use the side kick stand. My center stand " the part that you step on " would drag if in leaned too much into a turn.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 20:11:21 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure either will work , one is just a little longer .
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 16:27:35 GMT -5
Ok cool. Btw I do have one of those laser temp guns...would I be able to get a decent measurement by measuring the heat of the case or would that just be way off from the actual oil temp? Maybe ill just get one of those 100c ones The 100c ones will work , but you will want to occasionally test and make sure its calibrated. They are not the best bit they will work . I had one for years . I recently replaced the thermometer part with a slightly better one . its very smart to have a temp gauge , even if it is the cheaper dipstick gauge. Any fluctuation showing high temps can save you in the long run. Its a shame these scoots do not come with a temp gauge. They sell a koso digital temp gauge that screws into the oil drain port under the CVT cover. Dmartin has some he is going to test , they seems really good . but in the meantime the dipstick gauge will work . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 16:19:45 GMT -5
Thx for all the help. Im checking my oil tonite. I should be getting a bbk and a9 cam, uni filter and starter in a week . Be my first build. I Strongly Encourage you to get a book and do some Reading on Basic Fundamentals of this Build. Do this before you listen to Hear say, Old Tales and Learn Bad Habbitt's It will pay off big in the long run. BIG! Follow the Five P's Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance. Good Luck! When it comes to listening to others , many of us have been there and done that . if someone tell you something then you hear the opposite from someone else, ask who actually tried and tested what they are saying. You will sometimes get someone telling you to do something because its what they heard or thought would or would not work. Its best to get your info from someone who has actually been there and done what they are saying or from someone who has tested certain mods. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 16:12:39 GMT -5
so I was checking out oil temp gauge dipsticks but they only seem to go to 100c/212 f. As I understand gy6s tend to get hotter than that. I was wondering if anyone has managed to find one that fits, and can measure higher temps, kinda over trying to fabricate one. Am I outa luck? The normal temp for a gy6 is between 180f and 200f it may sometimes get up to between 210 and 220 , but that's if you run it really hard. If you get temps up to 240 you should let it cool . if it reaches those temps really easy at cruising speeds then you have a problem . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 16:03:13 GMT -5
Yeah, I remember when he had that problem . The only thing that could be happening is the inside of the bearings are rusted to the axle. Or the inner spacer is rusted to the axle and the swingarm bearings . If you can get a flat head between the wheel and the swing arm ," that's where the inner spacer sets" and tap it with a hammer . keep spinning the wheel and tapping it. Maybe you can break it loose. Also try tapping the bearings where the axle slides through , so you can try to break it loose.
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hoca 52mm kit
by: geh3333 - Jun 20, 2015 21:25:07 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 20, 2015 21:25:07 GMT -5
Yes it is . especially with the small wheels . I guess if you really mod the gearing you can get that thing moving. Also the bigger carb seems to be a big part in the success not hitting 60 mph. Back a few years ago , not many would put a 24mm carb on a 50cc with a 52mm kit. Which makes sense why 60mph seemed to be a fantasy . we've come a long way in learning what works and what does not .
Hey mil ! , what size tires r u running. If you are running 10 inch wheels " which I suspect " I think you should go as tall of a 10inch tire as you can . this will push you over that 60mph goal ?
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 20, 2015 11:10:54 GMT -5
He has rear drum brakes , so a bent rotor is out. That rear wheel is really bouncing . This bike does have a front rotor, drum rear setup. I was simply stating that my bike (same brand and model) came from the factory with a bent front rotor causing front end shake when the bent portion contacted the shoes/calipers at speed. The rear wheel balance problem is easily corrected by balancing gel/beads and can be done by just about anyone with access to a compressor. I used my local service stations free of charge. Stock rubber on these bikes is really low quality. I replaced with good tires from partsforscooters.com and balanced with RideOn gel and put good straight valve stems in while i had access. Have not had any tire issues in 10,100Km. My $0.02. I agree , the stock tires are terrible ! I'm not so sure its just a balancing issue . even when the tire spins slow , you can see it is wobbly. Also the stock tires are usually only rated to about 60mph . since many of us are surpassing the 65mph mark , ts best to swap them out for a new better quality set. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 20, 2015 5:49:37 GMT -5
Ok folks i did not try anything after yesterday afternoon, i got tied up with other things. Does anyone have any suggestions as to why the scoot has a hard time starting? I adjusted the idle screw because the idle rpm was at about 2000rpm. I did it after running the bike for approx 3mins. It only starts if i give it throttle. Once its running it has a somewhat steady idle. Im going to readjust the valves one more time and set the exhaust to 004 It could just be that it needs to be tuned in a little better. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 20, 2015 5:45:46 GMT -5
Any reputable mechanic would ask for the keys so they don't have to break into the ignition to start it. You dont have to break the ignition, just pull off the front plastics (screwdriver) and hotwire. Sorry , I didn't literally mean you have to break it . I meant you have to break into it , as it taking parts off and getting to the wires. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 19, 2015 23:31:02 GMT -5
You need heavier variator weights so you don't hit those hghi rpms. You will also keep the top end speed , maybe even pick up more . how high is the belt climbing in the variator?
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 19, 2015 23:26:27 GMT -5
Any reputable mechanic would ask for the keys so they don't have to break into the ignition to start it.
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