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Post by jtron on Jun 21, 2015 13:18:36 GMT -5
so I was checking out oil temp gauge dipsticks but they only seem to go to 100c/212 f. As I understand gy6s tend to get hotter than that. I was wondering if anyone has managed to find one that fits, and can measure higher temps, kinda over trying to fabricate one. Am I outa luck?
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 16:12:39 GMT -5
so I was checking out oil temp gauge dipsticks but they only seem to go to 100c/212 f. As I understand gy6s tend to get hotter than that. I was wondering if anyone has managed to find one that fits, and can measure higher temps, kinda over trying to fabricate one. Am I outa luck? The normal temp for a gy6 is between 180f and 200f it may sometimes get up to between 210 and 220 , but that's if you run it really hard. If you get temps up to 240 you should let it cool . if it reaches those temps really easy at cruising speeds then you have a problem . |
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Post by jtron on Jun 21, 2015 16:16:07 GMT -5
Ok cool. Btw I do have one of those laser temp guns...would I be able to get a decent measurement by measuring the heat of the case or would that just be way off from the actual oil temp? Maybe ill just get one of those 100c ones
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 16:27:35 GMT -5
Ok cool. Btw I do have one of those laser temp guns...would I be able to get a decent measurement by measuring the heat of the case or would that just be way off from the actual oil temp? Maybe ill just get one of those 100c ones The 100c ones will work , but you will want to occasionally test and make sure its calibrated. They are not the best bit they will work . I had one for years . I recently replaced the thermometer part with a slightly better one . its very smart to have a temp gauge , even if it is the cheaper dipstick gauge. Any fluctuation showing high temps can save you in the long run. Its a shame these scoots do not come with a temp gauge. They sell a koso digital temp gauge that screws into the oil drain port under the CVT cover. Dmartin has some he is going to test , they seems really good . but in the meantime the dipstick gauge will work . |
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Post by jtron on Jun 21, 2015 17:09:38 GMT -5
Looks like they have 10.2 cm ones and 14.5 cm ones one ebay. Both say for gy6. What size would work? I have a 157qmj long case 150
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 21, 2015 19:27:36 GMT -5
Put a stick in, mark it at the top of the filler tube, then measure. You don't want it touching metal.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 20:11:21 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure either will work , one is just a little longer .
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Post by hillbillybob on Jun 22, 2015 5:32:41 GMT -5
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Post by jtron on Jun 22, 2015 14:09:35 GMT -5
Hmmmm. Interesting article. I wanna switch to synthetic eventually, I only have like 340 miles so far tho so I'm using conventional. How long is it reccomended to use conventional for while you break it in?
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Post by ricardoguitars on Jun 22, 2015 15:05:04 GMT -5
Hmmmm. Interesting article. I wanna switch to synthetic eventually, I only have like 340 miles so far tho so I'm using conventional. How long is it reccomended to use conventional for while you break it in? I've been doing a little research on this subject since I also recently installed a BBK, looks like it is one of those good ol' "Chevy vs Ford" arguments, some people swear over mineral oil, others say it is no longer necessary on modern engines with modern oils, even some vehicles come filled with synthetic oil out of the factory; the question would be, is the GY6 considered a "modern" or "old" engine? Is it ok for an old engine to brake in with a modern synthetic oil? I guess I'll have to do further research and make "an educated guess" since there is nothing written on stone about this.  |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 22, 2015 19:12:21 GMT -5
Hmmmm. Interesting article. I wanna switch to synthetic eventually, I only have like 340 miles so far tho so I'm using conventional. How long is it reccomended to use conventional for while you break it in? I've been doing a little research on this subject since I also recently installed a BBK, looks like it is one of those good ol' "Chevy vs Ford" arguments, some people swear over mineral oil, others say it is no longer necessary on modern engines with modern oils, even some vehicles come filled with synthetic oil out of the factory; the question would be, is the GY6 considered a "modern" or "old" engine? Is it ok for an old engine to brake in with a modern synthetic oil? I guess I'll have to do further research and make "an educated guess" since there is nothing written on stone about this. This depends on the particular application, Cylinder Composition,Cylinder Finish, Ring Materials/Alloy. Many Factors are considered. Seems the best for the GY-6 with its Cast in Iron Bore Likes Dino Oil for break in. Current Vetts and Z-28's with the LS based engines come OE with Synth. Mobil 1 along with My Porsche. This is the Shelf Mobil 1 and Not the Racing version. |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 22, 2015 19:18:32 GMT -5
Tis a good article The Piston Ring Technology with the Circle Track Cars and other's have for some time been going with a very Thin Low Tension Ring package, Trick is to get it to Seal as well as old school thicker ring. With the Thinner package I need less Piston Material to Hold/Carry the Rings resulting in a Lighter Piston. The High end Pure Racing Oil's have followed suit with Lighter Weight Snynt, oils. The leading edge of this Oil Technology has been the Joe Gibbs Driven Oil and Maxima. Gibbs has sold this off to Comp Cams and is now known as Driven. Just sayin |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 22, 2015 19:28:12 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure either will work , one is just a little longer . So this is my guess, not knowing. The reason to have a temp gauge is to watch and see if things are out of whack, and stop before melting the engine into a blob of cheap alloy aluminum. It seems to me a bright idiot light would be great for this. An easily read tempt gauge even better, especially if linked with a light. That way, when buzzing along at 100mph, the wheels bouncing so much they no longer know where the pavement even is, if the temp shoots up you have a chance to catch it in time. A dipstick? No use at all. Who would be so lucky as to look down & back at the right moment (even presuming it would be visible when riding). Is that about right? |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 21:55:01 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure either will work , one is just a little longer . So this is my guess, not knowing. The reason to have a temp gauge is to watch and see if things are out of whack, and stop before melting the engine into a blob of cheap alloy aluminum. It seems to me a bright idiot light would be great for this. An easily read tempt gauge even better, especially if linked with a light. That way, when buzzing along at 100mph, the wheels bouncing so much they no longer know where the pavement even is, if the temp shoots up you have a chance to catch it in time. A dipstick? No use at all. Who would be so lucky as to look down & back at the right moment (even presuming it would be visible when riding). Is that about right? Its very hard to see while riding !! I always look at the temps at stop lights and when I park the scoot. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 23, 2015 6:19:46 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure either will work , one is just a little longer . So this is my guess, not knowing. The reason to have a temp gauge is to watch and see if things are out of whack, and stop before melting the engine into a blob of cheap alloy aluminum. It seems to me a bright idiot light would be great for this. An easily read tempt gauge even better, especially if linked with a light. That way, when buzzing along at 100mph, the wheels bouncing so much they no longer know where the pavement even is, if the temp shoots up you have a chance to catch it in time. A dipstick? No use at all. Who would be so lucky as to look down & back at the right moment (even presuming it would be visible when riding). Is that about right? Always so negative !! My goodness , lol |
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