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Post by geh3333 on Jun 23, 2015 0:01:03 GMT -5
That is some major side to side woble ! I didn't see if you answered this or not, but has it been like this from the get go ? Or did this just start up one day ? The tire seems like its possible defective , that's if the rim is not bent. The back wheel is not loose is it ? It is a new bike. It was shipped to me. I will have to check if it's loose. See if you have any side to side movement. However I don't really thing that would cause the scoot to bounce like that. It would probably just cause some swaying while riding.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 23:59:01 GMT -5
Sorry I have not followed up on this. I was finally able to tinker with scoot again today. I did as suggested and drained the oil, then added exactly 750 ml if 10w 40. I then rode scoot up the highway for a while, hitting an incline and mostly all WOT. All told only rode about six miles, but, unfortunately, returned to find I am again blowing oil. Any suggestions for my next step? Did you check the oil level as suggested ?. You always have oil lft over in the crank case. At this point I still don't think its overfilled enough to blow oil , so you probably have an issue with blow by forcing the oil out the vent hose.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 23:51:58 GMT -5
You need to hook the battery ground to the valve cover. Run a wire from the same spot on the valve cover to the frame. then, run a ground from that spot on the frame to another bolt on the engine. As close to the starter as possible. Do that, then report the results. The only grounds I have are to the valve cover and to the frame.
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Oil leaking
by: geh3333 - Jun 22, 2015 23:48:59 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 23:48:59 GMT -5
Can't you still use that head and just get a 4 bolt valve cover ? Not sure. I know that the fan shroud would have to be modified if I use a different head. Also, the gasket kit seemed to be for the G6-200 specific. I had to slightly modify my cooling shroud when I installed the ncy head . it had the egr port molded into the cast . it was not open , but the cast stuck out and hit the shroud.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 23:45:14 GMT -5
two or 3 jaw puller on the swing arm. John Jaw puller + slidehammer are invaluable when working with wheels/bearings... I think I actually mentioned a slide hammer or axle puller when the last member had this issue.
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Center stand
by: geh3333 - Jun 22, 2015 23:41:58 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 23:41:58 GMT -5
Is there any conceivable way the center stand can come down while riding? If you are going in a straight line it can't do more harm than dragging on the ground. What if you were turning? I'm seriously thinking somehow the kick starter is engaging and shooting down causing the center stand to come down. This might make sense as the two metal tabs on either side were bent and the center stand was all the way forward. The reason I ask is I asked the wife to try out the new scoot and compare it to her's. Made it about 2 blocks to the stop sign and started off taking a right when she wiped out. I noticed the center stand was down all the way (thrown forward even as those tabs have not been welded up yet). Maybe this is why the previous owner wiped out?!? I understand it's pointed backwards and even coming down shouldn't do more than drag on the ground. I'm just confused. F(^&ck I feel like s%$#t now. This is what i mean by forward There are a few circumstances in which the slightest contact with the ground can cause inexperienced riders to wipe out when least expected. When taking off, with that center stand pointing forward, if it touched the ground it would have taken just a bit of weight off the rear tire as she was applying throttle, leading to a sudden loss of traction. Another common situation is during turns, inexperienced riders like to put their foot out, or lean too far allowing the kickstand to touch ground, and end up causing sudden loss of traction leading to a slide out. That scooter is not safe even for experienced riders till that center stand is fixed! If you can't fix it now, remove it till you can! When it comes to the leaning . there should be no way the kick stand should scrap the ground. Even the center stand . its a terrible design. Even experienced riders may run into a circumstance where he has to lean a little further to avoid something . its not like these are racing motos where you can lean at such and such angle . mine would drag while leaning just slightly further then I normal lean. Its a horrible design for a street legal bike.
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hoca 52mm kit
by: geh3333 - Jun 22, 2015 23:34:53 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 23:34:53 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 23:30:48 GMT -5
That is some major side to side woble ! I didn't see if you answered this or not, but has it been like this from the get go ? Or did this just start up one day ? The tire seems like its possible defective , that's if the rim is not bent. The back wheel is not loose is it ?
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 21:55:01 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure either will work , one is just a little longer . So this is my guess, not knowing. The reason to have a temp gauge is to watch and see if things are out of whack, and stop before melting the engine into a blob of cheap alloy aluminum. It seems to me a bright idiot light would be great for this. An easily read tempt gauge even better, especially if linked with a light. That way, when buzzing along at 100mph, the wheels bouncing so much they no longer know where the pavement even is, if the temp shoots up you have a chance to catch it in time. A dipstick? No use at all. Who would be so lucky as to look down & back at the right moment (even presuming it would be visible when riding). Is that about right? Its very hard to see while riding !! I always look at the temps at stop lights and when I park the scoot.
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hoca 52mm kit
by: geh3333 - Jun 22, 2015 15:46:51 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 15:46:51 GMT -5
I'm running normal 10 inch wheels I hit 57 gps this morning on the expressway going to work. I'll video this weekend I'll start further back on the expressway it's a 50mph zone and I'm pretty sure I can get 60. I'll Velcro my phone to the dash using my gps speed app I hit 57 In a little over a quarter mile I'm sure with a longer run I'll achieve my goal. I hit 69 Saturday morning . I need to find a way to hook my phone to the scoot so the camera is not shaky. Hey mil ! , r u using a phone for the video ? If so they have an app that shows a speedo in the video . its perfect for these things . not sure if you saw my first video with it ?
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 15:41:22 GMT -5
Was just cruising eBay and saw an oko variator115mm for like 35 bucks. I wonder of its any good. I hear good things about DNC, they have it fr around the same price too. There's tons of hocas but I hear they suck now. Does the DNC or oko measure up to ncy or Dr pulley? Anyone tried an oko variator? doesn't gy6racing sell those ? Actually he sells the oko to . I would not be concerned with the variators he sells. They all seem to be better then the junk koso and and other junk variators being sold.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 15:36:25 GMT -5
What all did you use? Thats what i was wondering. Looks like a * pvc sweep elbow and a rubber connector... Yep pretty much , the has a male end and a female end . the uni fits over the male end perfect and the rubber connector attaches everything to the carb. Everything fits right under the crossbar behind the carb.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 0:59:14 GMT -5
Would some of that gasket material people use to block off the entrance to the fuel enrichener on the carb work to block off the holes on the carbuerator? People usually use jb weld to block off the enricher holes. Which holes on the carb are you wanting to block off ?
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 22, 2015 0:53:41 GMT -5
Starter solinoid works fine, solid click when you hit the button and 12+ volts at the end of the starter positive wire coming from the solenoid and remember it will spin when you touch it to the carb linkage but not really fast or consistently and all grounds are good and intact and I have added more grounds, one to cylinder and one direct to starter. Do I have a short? I put my multimeter on 10amp dc test with the negative wire removed from the battery and the two leads bridging the negative cable to the battery and there was no amp draw with the key on or when you hit the start button. So I don't know what the is going on. Again with starter directly to a separate battery seems to work just fine...... What happens when u hook it directly to the scoot battery ? Why did you have to buy a new battery ?
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 21, 2015 23:05:04 GMT -5
Ive got another question. I bought a knock off uni. But its too fat(the diameter of the foam) its too think to fit in my frame. Is there a filter that fits? Or whats the best things to use as air intake tube? I could make something. I need this as a daily just tried to get rid of the air filter box. It was just always in the way. Make your own intake like this to attach the uni to. . U can get all the parts at a hardware store. I don't care for those cone filters.
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