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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 20:59:02 GMT -5
How do I add my picture to my profile? It says to add the URL to the pic. But I have no pics at any URL. In fact at what URL would a person keep pics? All my pics are in a folder on my PC...why can't I just upload one like the other 3 scoot sites I am a member of?..  |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 18:43:31 GMT -5
earlwb - Funny that you mentioned LiFe, as we are currently working on a line of LiFe batteries of our own. We've come to much the same conclusion about LiPo: While very effective, there is a certain liability when using them that I'm not quite comfortable with yet. This being said, LiPo is a very attractive battery tech for all of the above reasons that Carasdad is discovering. Matt Matt I used a float charger..not a regular charger as it only goes as low as 2 amps..and they told me that was too high. So far after abusing like I did in the above post with a partially dead car battery...which made the Li Po too hot to touch almost. It did take a full charge...which really surprised me! So they are tough critters...but yes...charging them must be done EXACTLY as the wholesaler that donated it to me to play with and test out said. It kept a full charge after 36 hours in my freezer even. But that does not indicate what 3 months of winter weather would do. Where can I find info on your LiFe battery? Does it need a special charger? The Shorai does and that is a $160.00 battery and $70.00 charger...so the market for them might be slow unless ya got a big bank account. This has worked fine on a trickle charger...no explosions yet *counts fingers*..nope..no explosion. The hard part about the Lithium batteries I have found..is when I show it to folks and tell them I can order them one. They are very skeptical as it is so light... 1.2lbs vs their 6lb YTX7A-BS...so they don't relate it to having more CCA. But that is human nature with technology i.e. when radios went from tubes to transistors they were smaller and lighter and many had no faith in them..  |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 18:24:12 GMT -5
Ok..found my thick glasses...  ..maybe they will help....somebody just point me in the direction of my PC monitor please...thanks... |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 18:12:51 GMT -5
Carasdad, His alignment is NOT ON THE "F" you are looking at the PICKUP COIL position which is little past the "F". The POINTER is the tab built onto the Case. When the spark Plug fires it fires anywhere from a little before the "T" to the "F" mark. Alleyoop Whoa!!.Thanks! I need to get these old eyes checked..now I see his alignment mark on the case...it's waaaay down there.. Next time I need to click on and blow the picture up bigger...  Good gawd..I hit 50 next month and already senile. Well..actually you know the rest of my story...so bear with me...  Also..thanks for the pointer on my carb issue..Keven (skuttadog) sent me a 45 Pilot Jet to replace my 42..now once it warms up..take off is better and it does not lose low end once the enricher kicks off.  |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 17:37:11 GMT -5
^^^ alleyoop is 110% on that one! Your came is one tooth off and your alignment is on F..you are way advanced in timing..it must be on the T. Surprised it runs and does not kick back or backfire etc..hmmm
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 15:18:45 GMT -5
Guys, Here is a more simple example that everyone may understand: Different scoots take different size Variators and the ramps are also a different size so different size weights have to be produced. EXAMPLE: My 150 Trike Variator takes 18x14 size weights. 18 being the diameter and 14 being the width to fit in the ramp. 1. So if I can get a weight that is 19x14 INSTEAD of the 18x14 what I just did is make it possible for the Variator to push out the Variator FACE out more which in turn pushs the BELT UP HIGHER on the face of the Variator. a. Result more top end speed. The width has to stay the same to fit the width of the Ramps you do not want to loose the width otherwise they will rattle like crazy. LONGER BELT: Longer belt MAY cause loss of your top end and here is the REASON: A. Remember A BIGGER WHEEL TURNs A SMALLER wheel faster. The longer belt may climb higher on the VARIATOR BUT IT MAY NOT pull it down in the CLUTCH PULLEY at its smallest diameter. In this case what just happened is the Front wheel got a little bigger but the Rear wheel got a little bigger as well(no gain in top end or even a loss of top end speed). Testing a longer belt is a crap shut to determine any benefit. Loss you will notice right away. Slightly bigger weights is much easier. Just mark the Variator run it with the same size weights as the bigger weights and see how much of a mark is left as well as the speed recorded. Then put in the taller weights and do the same thing and see the difference of the mark left on the variator from the first OEM weight run and the speed. Alleyoop Thank you! MUCH better explanation than mine.. This part here is what happened to me ---->The longer belt may climb higher on the VARIATOR BUT IT MAY NOT pull it down in the CLUTCH PULLEY at its smallest diameter. In this case what just happened is the Front wheel got a little bigger but the Rear wheel got a little bigger as well(no gain in top end or even a loss of top end speed). millsc..Will it hit the Bendix?. Anything can happen in the scooter world. But 5 have told me they tried it and were enjoying the take off and extra top speed of 8-10 mph. When some test the variator to see how high the belt rides...they eyeball it on the centerstand. Not a good way because there is no load..so it will rev way up there..and with no load it seems the contra spring would have nothing to fight against and allow the belt to ride all the way up. Best way is to mark the CVT with a 'Sharpie' then actually ride it. Then check what is left of the mark you made. As I said..several have PM'd me saying it worked and they were happy and impressed by the difference..but again..hit the Bendix?...Nobody so far has..but as I said not everything in the scooter world is an exact science...there are too many variables. i.e. many 2T folks drill a 3/8 hole in the back of their airbox...upjet by 5 and have better power and speed. All that did for me was overheat my engine cause it was lean. Some can run a free flow filter on their 2T..upjet by 10 and get power....again...not mine it overheated at 10 up...even 15 up with a #  jet! So I glassed over the hole..run a #87.5 and it is happy as a Lark. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 14:50:09 GMT -5
Guys, Here is a more simple example that everyone may understand: Different scoots take different size Variators and the ramps are also a different size so different size weights have to be produced. EXAMPLE: My 150 Trike Variator takes 18x14 size weights. 18 being the diameter and 14 being the width to fit in the ramp. 1. So if I can get a weight that is 19x14 INSTEAD of the 18x14 what I just did is make it possible for the Variator to push out the Variator FACE out more which in turn pushs the BELT UP HIGHER on the face of the Variator. a. Result more top end speed. The width has to stay the same to fit the width of the Ramps you do not want to loose the width otherwise they will rattle like crazy. LONGER BELT: Longer belt MAY cause loss of your top end and here is the REASON: A. Remember A BIGGER WHEEL TURNs A SMALLER wheel faster. The longer belt may climb higher on the VARIATOR BUT IT MAY NOT pull it down in the CLUTCH PULLEY at its smallest diameter. In this case what just happened is the Front wheel got a little bigger but the Rear wheel got a little bigger as well(no gain in top end or even a loss of top end speed). Testing a longer belt is a crap shut to determine any benefit. Loss you will notice right away. Slightly bigger weights is much easier. Just mark the Variator run it with the same size weights as the bigger weights and see how much of a mark is left as well as the speed recorded. Then put in the taller weights and do the same thing and see the difference of the mark left on the variator from the first OEM weight run and the speed. Alleyoop Thank you! Much better explanation of what it does and how it works!! Also --> "The longer belt may climb higher on the VARIATOR BUT IT MAY NOT pull it down in the CLUTCH PULLEY at its smallest diameter. In this case what just happened is the Front wheel got a little bigger but the Rear wheel got a little bigger as well(no gain in top end or even a loss of top end speed)." <--- that is what happened when I tried it...just didn't explain it clearly.. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 13:35:28 GMT -5
I have a performance variator wonder if it will still work? I have a KOSO variator...my nephew's is stock...it worked on both. No guarantee of course. But 4 from another site PM'd me or put it in the forum that it worked for them too... |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 13:09:51 GMT -5
If you filled the side they would be 18x13 not 16x14 Ok...hold up...your stock ones are 13mm wide right? Yes. Read up..I did not say 16X14...it said 18X13.. ;D You ONLY file the sides..you want them thinner not smaller in diameter. Plus filing the diameter would ruin them. Take the 18X14 file the SIDES ONLY to make them 13mm..leave the diameter alone. Now that they are 13mm wide..they will fit in the 13mm slots from your 13mm CVT..which takes 13mm wide rollers or sliders. Make sense now?.. So YES they would be 18X13..that is what ya want.a 14 will not fit the slots in your variator. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 12:53:56 GMT -5
If I had 200 scoots just sitting there, knowing 30% of em would get pissed on and turned into parts bikes, I think I'd do something about it. Dave I kept telling him that..but he did nothing!Suggested stacking them on 3 pallets....nope! He is a very..very wealthy rich kid. Didn't seem to care..all the while I am cringing each time I uncrated a "Rat Bike" Tried having him get them insured...nope. So I put out Rat poison all over the place..set traps and closed 4 stray cats in there...but little affect at all. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 12:42:10 GMT -5
I tore at least one of those apart when I was a kid, of course that was 45 yrs ago. No AA batteries in those back then. Same here..back in the day when we were kids..the 6v's just had a huge hunk of carbon or something... But alleyoop is right..the new ones are different. So see how much better kids these days have..vs what we had back in the day?...spoiled brats. they don't even have to smack their TV sets anymore to stop the vertical or horizontal scrolling...just to watch Gilligans Island in black and white like we did.. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 12:32:11 GMT -5
I would avoid them...every one I have seen from many different vendors even...and no matter how costly...once gas dribbles on them...the chrome peels off and leaves you with a rough surfaced dull aluminum cover.. They scratch and easy...and the weather even causes them to flake. Probably the same problems Walt (Scooter Elements) is having with his and why he loses money having to sell them cheaper on Ebay... 100% TRUE!!!!! if you see my listing i sell them for people to paint them or modify them. Just for proof here is a picture of my current CVT Cover Chrome. Its been on for over a year now. If you do end up buying one you will have to take good care of it. Also if any dogs pee on them then yea say goodbye to the chrome (my dog always has to pee on my scooter when i am not looking). Its one of the reasons on my other scooter build i am going with a composimo cover.  Walt..so true...urine is BAD mojo on them. 2 years ago I was the mechanic at a shop my buddy owns on the beach. He sold..rented..repaired and sold scoot parts. We had over 200 new in the crate scoots in his warehouse. 1 out of 3 we called "Rat Bikes" when we pulled them out. The rats would nest in the crates and piss all over in the crate. Not only did the urine eat the chrome off...it ate the clear coating from the Mag wheels and clear coating from the paint even! Their pee must be very acidic or something. Those all became parts bikes and stripped down..cause it even rusted the frames and handlebars. I have seen folks pay to get a real chrome coat...but it was expensive..cause I think they copper..or brass coat them first. Some kind of bronze metal anyway..they said that is what makes the chrome stick..as it doesn't stick well to the cases made from aluminum/magnesium/tin and other metals they use as a mixture to make what the plating shop called 'Pot Metal'.. I am sure somebody on here works with plating and can explain it properly and in more detail than me. I can do powder coating...but not plating.. Oh...btw!! For those that want to or need to paint frames etc.... the Powder Coating gun and equipment for it. The ones at Harbor Freight actually do work...are very cheap..and you can mix your own colors. You just need a big empty place inside..like a storage shed or likewise to do it. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 12:04:51 GMT -5
One tip a customer found out..make SURE it is vacuum line. He used some thin wall line and it would collapse under vacuum.  No clue where he got such thin whimpy stuff. But that was what was causing his scoot issues at high speeds. That stuff was so thin and limp...n crappy...I doubt that even the Chinese are capable of such low quality..  |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 11:44:43 GMT -5
Makes sense, now to me. But... How do you figure the difference in the final drive ratio doing this versus just getting a longer belt that will go to the outer edge of the variator. I have an idea what you will say and it seems like the longer belt might not be a answer to maximizing the performance. You were right...lol..I do have something to say about that. I tried several longer belts..one was so big it popped off the variator...2nd try with that belt it came off again and got caught up n shredded. With a 798 belt vs the normal 788 running it with cover off...I noticed it did ride higher on the CVT.but not as deep in the clutch pulley for some reason. Maybe the extra 10mm gave it too much slack??. Also I don't figure the final drive ratio..only do that on a tranny gear swap. All I gotta say is try it... Here..read this link.. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/5933/page/1/interesting-experiment urbanmadness....you don't need to put your stock variator back on..it works with performance ones too..unless it is the Hoca as they use 16X13mm..so the filed down on the sides to make them 16X12 slider weights will not work. Not sure if this will work on rollers as I have not tried it. But my Nephew has rollers and he is milling his down right now. He is using a drill press and grind wheel...lil wuss..I did it the manly way..by hand..using a Mill File... ;D |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 10:24:18 GMT -5
[replyingto=dsrt]dsrt[/replyingto]I would avoid them...every one I have seen from many different vendors even...and no matter how costly...once gas dribbles on them...the chrome peels off and leaves you with a rough surfaced dull aluminum cover.. They scratch and easy...and the weather even causes them to flake. Probably the same problems Walt (Scooter Elements) is having with his and why he loses money having to sell them cheaper on Ebay... |
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jet! So I glassed over the hole..run a #87.5 and it is happy as a Lark.
