|
Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 18:11:49 GMT -5
I used duplicolor on a motorcycle, gas spills on the tank messed it up. I thought they touted that stuff as gas proof?..maybe they mean gas resistant...and when things say resistant...it means they are affected..it just a few minutes longer to mess it up..
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 17:07:25 GMT -5
o'reilly's auto parts store carries automotive paint in a can. That's what I use. ahh..yes they do...good idea..also Duplicolor should work well as it is lacquer based....goes on smooth and dries super fast...even before the pesky bugs can land on it. Why is it..bugs are attracted to paint anyway?
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 17:03:13 GMT -5
Ok Matt..so this one... www.partsforscooters.com/172-90_Star_Tron_Fuel_Treatment That one should fix the Octane problem..or do ya think it is an Ethanol problem? The link ya gave me says ..solves Ethanol based problems.Not sure I can see how Ethanol would cause detonation Does it?...
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 16:56:34 GMT -5
[replyingto=fugaziiv]fugaziiv[/replyingto]We have a race track 3 miles away...they sell TORCO gas for the Modified class boys that race.About 8 bux a gallon though and I think it is 108? Star Tron?...never heard of it..that the only one that actually works?..
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 15:58:22 GMT -5
just sand them down with some fine sand paper and water with soap. Primer them with a spray can from walmart and choose the color you want and add some spray can clear coat. (cheapest way) Walt..dog and rat urine works too huh?. ..(inside joke folks) I agree with the above posts..a good sanding...then a fine wet sanding...use a tack cloth to remove the remaining dust. That is how a kid down the road does it. He does custom paint for the kids in town that want a 'Rad' looking scoot. No air gun either. He uses spray cans...then spray cans of clear coat to finish them off. They end up looking as good as something you would pay for anyway.
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 15:53:31 GMT -5
Octane question.... I got a nice 2T Race 72BBK kit from Carlos(autotech355) Head is flat..I mean FLAT! Only dish in it is where the spark plug hole is. About a .5mm or less squish band....so it knocks really bad. Here in Michigan we have no dedicated high octane pumps...so when I get gas 1/2 tank is the 87 from the car before me..which is still in the gas pump system...the rest is octane. I added a head gasket..still knocks. Put on a total of 3 head gaskets...no more knock...but no more power either. 32mph tops...and it used to hit 50-55 easy.It just knocked and ran hot then. Soo bottom line I am sick of the knock that is surely going to eat this expensive BBK. Extra head gaskets are not the answer.Soo..has anybody had any luck with the Octane additives. Yes I am wise enough to know they do not give you extra power as many think higher Octane does. I merely need the knock to go away. yeah I know...should have bought a Sport or Street kit..but for a few bux more I figured..? Had no clue I would run into this.Odd part is at first it seemed ok...but now you can see by a plug chop...there is detonation. I made sure when I removed the head to clear nay carbon buildup. Which was little to none!Top of the piston was a white/grey color Bottom line..will an Octane booster help? Do they really work even? Which I am skeptical of as many fuel additives are falsely advertised garbage. umm...help??? ;D
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 14:15:15 GMT -5
BTW, they sell batteries at BMSbattery.com, if you're ever interested in experimenting with your own LiPo, or LiFePo4 batteries. Wow look at all those posts up there....eeesh. I have no problem with you disagreeing with my posts. BUT you do it to NEARLY every post people make besides me. You are an self procalimed expert of some sort.. Look at who all you called out and negated what they said...Matt from PFS...alleyoop..and several others. Not really sure I get it.
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 9:49:00 GMT -5
Matt I used a float charger..not a regular charger as it only goes as low as 2 amps..and they told me that was too high. So far after abusing like I did in the above post with a partially dead car battery...which made the Li Po too hot to touch almost. It did take a full charge...which really surprised me! So they are tough critters...but yes...charging them must be done EXACTLY as the wholesaler that donated it to me to play with and test out said. It kept a full charge after 36 hours in my freezer even. But that does not indicate what 3 months of winter weather would do. Where can I find info on your LiFe battery? Does it need a special charger? The Shorai does and that is a $160.00 battery and $70.00 charger...so the market for them might be slow unless ya got a big bank account. This has worked fine on a trickle charger...no explosions yet *counts fingers*..nope..no explosion. The hard part about the Lithium batteries I have found..is when I show it to folks and tell them I can order them one. They are very skeptical as it is so light... 1.2lbs vs their 6lb YTX7A-BS...so they don't relate it to having more CCA. But that is human nature with technology i.e. when radios went from tubes to transistors they were smaller and lighter and many had no faith in them.. Matt I agree...until Yuasa...Interstate..DieHard....etc. jump on the wagon... People will be skeptical. An example is the MP3 player. years ago we could only play MP3's on our PC. Then Coby came out with a portable MP3 player. I bought one..it worked great!! But they just didn't sell. Along comes the RCA Lyra and Apple's Ipod...and BAMMM! Instant overnight success. However due to their high price tag..the Coby and other generic brands began selling like hot cakes! As for the battery..when jumping the partially dead car...it did get too hot to touch..but no bulging...lucky me. It survived the 2 day 'in the freezer' test with a 100% charge. So that is good. Now I want to test it with scooter running to see why one company said charge at 1/2 to 1 amp max...another said 2 amps for 10 mins. Problem I have is..our stators must put out more than 1/2 to 1 amp. Reason I say this...gf's lead/acid battery is shot..only holds a charge overnight. Went to store 4 miles away but it would not crank at the house...I kick started it and rode 4 miles. Kick started it to get back home. Shut it off after that 20 min ride. Turned key back on...and it cranked right over. So no way 1/2 to 1 amp charged it that quickly. Wish I had the adapter for my multimeter so I could check stator amperage output. Maybe somebody here has tested it and can shed light on the subject for us. That would be awesome and let us know what we were working with!
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 9:04:31 GMT -5
The lithium battery charging discussion leaves me confused. Two amps is too much charge? What happens when it is installed in the scooter and gets charged with those primitive charging systems ? How are you checking the charge, just a volt meter or under a specific load? Do you need to balance the charge with the charger? So many questions. Ok my wholesaler gave me the battery..he said trickle charge only...1 amp or less..preferably 1/2 amp. other companies that carry same said battery told me 2 amps for no more than 10 minutes. I have tried both...both work..no excessive heat or explosion. I agree with you on the scooter charging it...at high speeds the stator surely puts out more than 1/2 or 1 amp. This can be seen in my gf's scoot. She needs a new battery as hers will not hold a charge more than 2 days. Completely dead I kick start it..ride 4 miles to the store. Kick start it again to get home another 4 miles. When I get home I shut it off. Turn the key back on a hit the start button..and she cranks over. So quite obvious she was getting more than 1/2 to 1 amp from her stator on an 8 mile 20 minute trip to charge her old lead/acid battery that much. To check the charge on this Lithium you just press the indicator button as shown in the pic. I also used a multimeter with engine not running and it shows 13.8 volts. Will test it with engine running today. I was told if stator is good it should be 14.0-14.2..we will see.
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 23:23:37 GMT -5
This may help: Alleyoop Again ya got my back. Thanks. I had a diagram but it had much of the rest of the harness wires in it....was even confusing for me. You are like hank...loaded with resources...incredible..
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 23:19:23 GMT -5
Wow! Have NEVER seen that before..were they hard to press out? But then never seen replacement bushing either...times have changed since you and I were young. Remember when mechanics fixed stuff?...now they just swap out parts.. It breaks...ya don't fix it..just buy a new one and plug our landfills with a repairable item...
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 23:00:24 GMT -5
Sucks being old... Ok now I remember why you need the relay. The thin wires to your standard horn cannot pass enough current to power those type of horns. So the relay uses those thin wires to turn it on..and heavier gauge wires from your battery to the relay..then your horn are able to carry the needed load without frying your wires. Regardless a loud horn is a huge safety item...as nobody pays attention to a scoot horn. They are used to that whimpy "meep meep" sound cause even kids ride on electric toy cars and trucks use that horn tone. Sadly I have even heard them on some of the smaller foreign cars..
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 22:47:13 GMT -5
Tractor Supply company and other farm supply businesses sell them. But all I have ever seen are SAE not metric. But then also I have never seen one you can remove as they are like Arbor pressed in..or one piece heated the other frozen and pressed in? Not sure how it's done..but in all my years working on these scoots..I have yet to see one that comes. You may find one at Grainger they carry metric bushings. Just look for 'Bronze oil lite bushing'...
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 22:37:11 GMT -5
howdy, yup i rememberize when we lived on the farm and had the tv in the wellhouse cause it was the onliest place it would work at all. Dad called it "shadows and dirge music". later when star trek started, we had to do something that was work while watching it cause there was work to be done. i churned a lot of butter watching captain kwirk doin' this or that. then going out to check the electric fence or something. by the way, i discovered it is not cool to piss on the electric fence. try it if you don't believe me. lotsa miles and smiles to ya ken Ken...I had to put tin foil on the Rabbit Ear antennae..then hold the antennae with one hand...then move my other arm around until we got a signal.....just so my dad could watch the damn 30 minute CBS evening with Walter Cronkite. 30 mins he made me stand there like that.. I once said..."ahhhh..my arm is getting tired..I gotta put it down".... he said.."Not right now yer not..you are busy learning patience and discipline"... Never did pee on an electric fence....but ya know a hogs testicles stick way out back near their butt..about 10-12 inches out....occasionally they would back their nads into the fence.. and squeal like . I used to go cross eyed just watching it happen..thinking..."Now that's gotta hurt"
|
|
|
Post by carasdad on Apr 25, 2013 22:26:12 GMT -5
Most all of the loud auto or train type horns will require some electrical skills...as they need 30-35 amp relay wired in to them. Somebody will be along shortly to explain why...and explain how in detail. I can't remember how I did one..but I do know you buy the relay at wal mart and instructions were on the back.
|
|