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Post by carasdad on Apr 29, 2013 9:17:48 GMT -5
Picture of your taillights would help. Alleyoop Agree 100% I have many at my disposal through my wholesaler..and other online resources..all we need is that one magical word from alleyoop...."picture".. ;D
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Post by carasdad on Apr 29, 2013 9:14:20 GMT -5
Me personally don't care why something works just want it to work I agree. But is tiresome when a person puts their 'assumptions' and 'speculations' on the board as proven fact. It is not fair to newbies that are here to learn. Lastly it just gets under my skin that this person must negate EVERYTHING I post. Cause it was not his idea or thought? Then starts negating those with extensive scooter mechanical and electrical backgrounds. I am merely trying to get the truth out...so the newbies can make a well informed choice when buying a battery..doing mods...or just general repairs. To post such things as your engine will run faster if you mix 10W30 with 10W40..is ludicrous.Where's the proof? Oil is oil...it all thins when the engine is hot. One is not gonna cause more drag then another..unless you use 80/ gear oil maybe. I know the reason for the negating is 1. Too cause controversy in which he finds essential in his life. 2. There is a need to ALWAYS be right...brought on by grandiosity and poor esteem on their part. 3. I have no clue. nulldevice..here is pic as promised.. Attachments:
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Post by carasdad on Apr 29, 2013 8:06:43 GMT -5
Prodigit, carasdad, Sorry about this, but understanding OHM'S law is absolutely essential to understanding electrical circuits, so here we go. E =IR That is math speak for: Voltage (V) equals amperage (I) times resistance (R). If you know any two you can calculate the third. Why those particular letters are used has to do with history and different languages of the early electrical researchers. Use E=IR to get volts Use I=E/R to get amperage Use R=I/E to get resistance in ohms Like playing a musical instrument, playing a sport, or turning a wrench, math takes practice to understand it and use it. Dig out a calculator and play with the formulas. If you understand the math you only need to remember one formula, E=IR, You simply plug in what you know and solve the equation. Oh my, I just realized, you need to have paid attention in shop math or algebra class to follow that explanation. I hope this helped. No need to be rude. I did pay attention in math class in High School and College. Although my degree may be in Nursing...it does NOT make me an idiot...I graduated with a 3.9. Also I have a MENSA card..I will scan it and send you a copy. My father was an electronics engineer..so I know ohms law and other formulas as he used to nearly preach them to me daily. Wanted me to follow his footsteps but was so annoyed with it I joined the military instead. I was trying to explain why more CCA would not ruin a starter..in plain simple terms that he may understand. If you read...what I asked for was help from a 'person in the know'..like you... not a rude snide commentary like you gave. Apologize for your crude and insulting post..and I will accept it. shalomrider. Thank you! Exactly what nearly all of us have experienced...that when the battery voltage is low or amperage is low...the starter is drawing more amperage than the battery can give...so the starter and solenoid get hot and can fry. After all...if that was not the case...why in the do folks try to buy the highest amperage rated battery they can fit in the scoot. Is it because higher CCA is going to burn up their starting system and that is what they want??. NO..of course not..as you know and just stated..it is just the OPPOSITE...they want that power there so they don't put a strain on the system. "Real" electricians unlike nulldevice will hopefully jump in and show that you and I are correct..
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Post by carasdad on Apr 28, 2013 20:21:35 GMT -5
a higher cranking battery isn't need in a stock scoot, the 7ah regular battery even cranks the cheapie ebay bbk's, its when you have a 52mm or a higher quality bbk with more compression, something is needed if the lithium can crank over my 52mm kits i'd be a happier guy, so more than likely i'm gonna have to go this route, i'll post after i get one, already posted the before vid Too high CCA's could easily burn out your starter. The battery's voltage drop is very little, causing the starter to rotate faster than with a normal battery. Under normal circumstances, this would be a good thing, as the engine would crank faster; however in the case of a dry vacuum fuel line, where you'd have to start for several seconds, to tens of seconds, it's easy to overheat the starter. The chinese user manual, with current 7A batteries, already says not to crank the starter too long; and give it long pauses in between. (like 5 seconds starting, and 20 seconds break or something, before cranking again). Not true. I hope an electrical whizz bang will join in explaining this with me. CCA has nothing to do with overloading your starter, If so folks could not be jumping their scoots with car batteries which are 600+ CCA! You are lost when it comes to electric in thinking as you stated above the 7 amp battery is ok...as it is only 7 amps. Those 7 amps relate to amps per hour..NOT CCA! Amperage is 'drawn' vice 'given' it is an on demand amount and not constant nor linear. Therefore a even a 600 CCA battery will only deliver..say 5 amps if that is all your scoot starter is needing to crank over. Amperage load does go up as demand goes up...such a super high compression engine. Voltage is. 12 volts is always 12 volts...except under a load it may decrease slightly. So burning up your starter with the 200CCA is not even close to plausible. The starter will ONLY pull the amperage it needs...it is NOT being force fed the total 200CCA it is using it at the rate needed to do its job. look at it this way...most house have 200 amp service boxes feeding the house. So in your explanation that would mean that every bulb in the house is being force fed 200 amps of AC current. Well..are they?..Cause if amperage works the way you describe the bulbs would get all 200 amps AC current and explode. Again it is an 'on demand' thing. Your electric stove and dryer have 30 amp plugs and wires....so how does that work without a fire..since they are being forced that 200 amps AC current?. Again...reason is the amperage is based on demand...they only need about 15-20 amps to run correctly...if they have a load on them they will draw more. (That is why we have circuit breakers..to protect from an over load) So my 180 CCA battery is NOT going to shorten the starters life..cause as I said amperage is load dependent..it only increase when the electrical device has a load on it. One more time..yet you still won't understand and of course will still know it all. Voltage is constant..hook 12 volts to your starter..you get 12 volts...hook 24 volts to your stater..you get 24(That WILL burn it up..not amperage) Amperage is not a constant..it is not force fed into an electric motor..what part of that do you not get?? I mean really. Look our car will crank over with a 270CCA lawn tractor battery..tried it once to rule out a bad relay. The cars battery itself is 680CCA..so if it only needs 270CCA to crank...shouldn't the remaining 410CCA being force fed to our starter burn it up?.. One more time cause yer a bit slow for an expert at everything. It does not burn up the car starter because it only needs to draw 270CCA to start..and that is all it draws...the other 410 are not needed...they are just reserve. So back to scooter starters.. the Lithium cells high CCA is going to burn up the starter? Re think all of what you said..and all I have posted above. Being wrong is always 100% ok..we all are a times..we're human. But if we knowingly speak of things with only partial information and lots of speculation when we know we are not correct. Well that becomes an issue. This IS NOT a flame prodigit post. It is merely an explanation of the reality and facts. Hang in there..somebody in the electrical field will be along to confirm what I wrote..and explain it better...explain it in proper terms and precisely how it all actually does work. Which will be great...because then we all..will get to learn. As they say..learn something new everyday..and this is all of our opportunity for that. Happy riding...be safe..
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Post by carasdad on Apr 28, 2013 13:27:50 GMT -5
what site is the best site to find bore kits and upgrade parts for taotao i just ordered a cy50 t3 sorry not stealing your thread Ebay sells them cheap..BUT ya never know what you are getting unless others have dealt with them from here..bought one of their kits and was satisfied. Let me share something with you from my wholesaler in China. Luna visits companies before she contracts part orders from them. If a part does not meet standards it is rejected...stamped with an X or * and sent back for reclaim of the materials. She has seen companies that sell the parts anyway to a shady parts warehouse over there that sell them on Ebay..or have buyers that purchase them very cheap and sell them on Ebay or from shady parts websites. Not just big bore kits that are rejected buy any and all parts. So beware. I myself do parts/repair and sell big bore kits(quality Taiwanese ones she contracts) I sell the 80cc kits for $42. +shipping which is usually $8.00 or less.All the parts I buy from her we run on our family fleet of scoots when they need a part. Here is a pic...My Jonway Hornet 2 stroke is not in the pic. So in a way I am doing QC on what I sell or install for folks. Attachments:
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Post by carasdad on Apr 28, 2013 11:08:10 GMT -5
Nah, I actually love my chinese scooter, It's very comfortable, the suspension is just perfect for me, its slighty stiff but not over bearing, and it handles great.. This scooter has alot of power for a 50cc.. I still havent found found anyone riding on a 50 that can keep up with it. im not quite sure why that is.. I dont know if the previous owner changed any parts, but I havent seen any that is visible... but yea.. other than the fact I am worried its gonna blow up soon, because it has 4500 miles on it, I absolutely love it. "Nature of the beast"...as I always say. When I sold new Scoots...I could uncrate..setup and PDI 5 of them. 4 would be typical stock 50cc take off and speed...about 32mph. But it never failed ! of those 5 would take off fast and hit 40-42mph!..and you could feel the difference. We called them "Sleepers" Tuning and adjusting the others gave a tiny improvement...but the "Sleepers" would still smoke them. Not a clue why..we even looked the bore to make sure it was 39mm(49cc) not 47mm(72cc) because several times China has sent over 72cc Scoots that passed customs and EPA checks...so folks got faster Scoot. Tao Tao just recently was sending over 44mm(63cc) Scoots..until they got caught. Busted! But now and then a few of those have seemed to slip through. The original design and size of the 50 engines was 72cc..which is legal in Asian countries and a few others. But not the U.S...Germany..France..England and a few others. So they make them a 39mm bore so we can buy them. But fear not! We can buy 63..80 and 100cc top end kits to install on them. Direct bolt on.
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Post by carasdad on Apr 28, 2013 10:46:46 GMT -5
kymco is chinese isnt it? If you want a cheaper than Japanese..but better than Chinese..try a Znen. The Puma and Armor are quality. I call them the Cadillac's of low cost scooters. Smooth ride...comfy..less QC issues with them. Bintelli is nice to...but I no longer see John or Jason on here anymore...just their banner...
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Post by carasdad on Apr 28, 2013 10:29:46 GMT -5
Well mainly im curious about the chinese scoots... I cant remember is Tank is a chinese or not.. I have a friend who has owned 2 Honda elite 80's .. the first one he put over 20,000 miles on it until some old woman in a car slammed into the back of him nd destroyed the scooter and nearly killed him... Well he bought one identical to it after he healed up from the accident, and right now he has close to 30,000 on it completely stock and never been rebuilt whatsoever... all hes ever done to it is replace the exhaust twice, because it broke off from the bad roads here in SC, and he regularly changes the oil... Those japanese scoots are pretty badass.. Wish I wasnt so poor, I would get one. Tank is Chinese and no longer made...they sold out to another company last I heard. There is a guy in my tiny town here..with 26,000 miles on his Chinese 50cc Scoot. He can't afford gas for his car..so he rides his Scoot 44 miles round trip..10 months of the year to get to work. Only uses his car in January and February..maybe a bit in March..as those are our 'Tons of snow' months. Only work he has done besides valve adjustments is replace 3 belts..because he will not spend the extra 10 bux for a premium belt...he just buys the Chinese low end..low cost belts. Which are not much more than an overrated black Rubber Band. Chinese Scoots have come a long way in the past 10 years...you'd be surprised. So dispatch all those rumors you've heard about them. They have been forced to improve quality cause for awhile...folks got tired of them and would not buy one. As for your Japanese rides..guess who now makes most of their parts? Yup..China..because it is cheaper. Then they assemble them in Japan and make a higher over head on their profit. yet another factoid...your proud "Buy American" Harley Davidson owners..don't even know many of their parts are made in China. My parts wholesaler in China... Luna Hyosung ...tells me she stocks many Harley parts. Mirrors..turn signals...headlights..body trim pieces...primary drive chains...and lots more. Again not American made Harleys anymore...they are now.."Assembled in Milwaukee Wisconsin" motorcycles. yup...
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Post by carasdad on Apr 28, 2013 9:55:15 GMT -5
so im curious, who has had the most miles on a 50cc without a catastrophic failure? Im curious, how long they will last.. No real answer for that...to many variables. How you ride it...weather..atmosphere...altitude(high elevation vs low elevation causing rich or lean conditions)..grade of oil you use..how often you change it...whether or not you are 300+lbs on a 50cc Scoot....grade of gas you use...fuel additives you use(most are detrimental even though they claim better power etc..Sea Foam and Chemtool b-12 are ok)...so many variables to consider. I will say..a few years ago I sold an 03 Tank Urban Sporty 50cc with 12,800 miles on it. All stock parts still on it...even the Gates Powerlink belt and NGK plug. Just a few minor repairs such as valve adjustments which are normal. Kid put 2,000 more miles on it and the belt finally broke. Replaced that for him and he is now just shy of 18,000 miles. When I sold Scoots I kept 5 for our family fleet..all did well except one. The others are over 9,000 miles now..BUT one only got just over 300 miles and the rings went...no compression would not run. Before I do a rebuild on any customers Scoot..I always take the valve cover off..crank it..and check for oil flow. Sure enough..that one had zilch for oil flow...pump was probably bad from the factory. New pump..new top end and it is now about 5,000 miles with no probs. So there ya have it in a nutshell. You were expecting a simple one sentence reply huh? ;D Sorry 'bout that..but there is no one sentence reply on ANYTHING mechanical..
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Post by carasdad on Apr 28, 2013 9:21:47 GMT -5
2 things from a scoot parts/repair shop owner and owner of 3 scoots that had remote start and alarm. 1. Whether armed or disarmed...the remote start and alarm will drain your battery. Why? Not sure..just the Chinese design I guess...but they will drain your battery. 2. People are so used to the sound of scoot...motorcycle or car alarms..they pay no attention. I know for a fact you yourself have been at a store...shop etc. when a car alarm went off. What happened?...NOTHING folks just continued on with their business. As for remote start..only thing they are good for is...When ya come out of Wal Mart..somebody is putting stuff in their vehicle...you are 50-75 feet away...so you remote start it and watch them look at the Scoot with nobody there!! ?..that thing started all on it's own!! Used to do that all the time.. we all need a good snicker now and then. Other than that..remote start is a useless battery drainer. Unless of course you want to warm the engine and interior of your Scoot and get the windshield defrosters working. But none of my Scoots ever came with an interior or windshield with defroster... ;D I use a Kryptonite cable and super thick lock to secure it to the 'Cart Corrals. Just cable locking the front or rear wheel is useless...as I have had several stolen. All it took was 2 average size men...pick it up...put it in a Van or Truck and they now are the proud owners of a new Scoot.
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Post by carasdad on Apr 27, 2013 10:12:50 GMT -5
I was thinking swap to e85. That stuff really has some power. I ran some in a 50cc 4 stroke. Aviation Gas for High Compression Aircraft piston engines is a good idea. Jet fuel is Kerosene, so not going to work. You could retard the timing, take the flywheel key out and set the timing wherever you want. My high school buddy races Super Modified and Sprint Car class here at the Racetrack. He linked me to articles by motorcycle hill climbers...motorcycle drag racers and other 2 wheel Motorsports hot rodders. They add Xylene to their gas. My buddy makes his own Sprint Car gas @ 108 Octane..Wayyy more than I need. But I found a calculator for small engines like scoots...Go Karts and small Quads...Dirtbikes etc. The Xylene will allow you to make Octane from pump gas. Only prob is the site says Xylene is super hydroscopic and the mix must be used within a week. Oddly as many believe..higher Octane pump gas does not give more power..it just gets rid of your 'ping' from detonation. But my buddy mixes Xylene with gas for his Grandsons 90cc 2T Quad and Yamaha PW80. he makes it for them and 108 for his Sprint Car. It somehow does increase power...blew me away. NEVER have I ridden a kids size Quad or Dirtbike that had so much power. He gave me the formula his pit crew uses..but it is 108 AND they make it in a steel drum..55 Gallons at a time just before they head to the track. I would NOT run 108 in a scoot. 55 gallons is also way more than I could use in a year. He just drives I guess...and does not know the formula so I could make it Octane. I think all Dave knows is...DRIVE FAST!!! TURN LEFT!!.. It has an odd but 'all out power' smell when it burns in the Quad and Dirtbike...and talk about power..whoa! I tried to pick apart his formula to make true Octane...but all that math gave me an "Algebra Migraine".. Then I found a calculator online where you get to choose what Octane rating you desire..and it tells you how much Xylene per gallon...NOT per 55 gallons. But I am afraid to try it..even though he says he has run it in the Quad and Dirtbike for 3 years with no issues. Anybody here ever mix some? Got any input on it?
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Post by carasdad on Apr 27, 2013 9:51:14 GMT -5
I sold an old Tank Urban Sporty 50...with 12,800 miles on it...guy still rides it and it now has 18,000 + on it. We ride our 50cc scoots as far as Grand Rapids and Muskegon Michigan(well over a 100 mile round trip) We visit my mom and sister almost weekly... mile round trip. 2 years ago..Firecrackers were illegal in Michigan..I road to the Indiana border to buy some. That is a tad over 100 miles round trip..it's like 106 or close to it. 'In town only' is just a stigma or paradigm folks are caught in. Being as you have a 250 scoot..it is no different than a 250 motorcycle....right?...
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Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 21:55:51 GMT -5
Why not take a can with you to the station put a gallon or so of the higher octane in the car and then fill up the can. See if that works... Hey now... gee...duh...I never thought about that. Now that will work... +5
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Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 18:36:48 GMT -5
Had that happen once...oil would NOT go in. Tried again the next morning and it poured right in ..never did figure out why..
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Post by carasdad on Apr 26, 2013 18:33:53 GMT -5
can you retard your timing a little i know you have a 2t if you can retard the timing just alittle it will help with the knocking Could...but would have to remove stator..drill holes and rotate stator back. on 4T I have elongated the pickup coil mounting hole..and moved it back. A WHOLE easier than a 2T.
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