|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 23:19:22 GMT -5
Your overjetted the MAIN JET #  is if you put in a Big Bore Kit, that motor is only 49.5cc, so your loosing power with to much gas. Alleyoop |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 23:16:45 GMT -5
The neg you touch ground the red to the wire you testing.
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 21:44:26 GMT -5
Turn the KEY ON and get your multi meter or 12v Light Tester and CHECK the BOTTOM WIRE on the 2 plug on the CDI. That is the wire that feeds voltage to the CDI. If with the KEY ON it registers 12v or if using a 12V light tester it lights up it is a DC CDI if nothing then it is a AC CDI. PM JOHN TVNACMAN, or call him at 347-564-1320 and he may get it shipped overnight for you or something. His banner is on the top page scrolling across. Alleyoop  |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 21:26:39 GMT -5
I would not entirely trust the 12.9v reading, It could be just surface charge. Also check the fuse on the thin red wire on the positive post of the battery and or replace it. I may not be making good contact on each end.
Do this Take a screwdriver and jump both terminals on the SOLENOID and see if it spins your starter.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 21:11:06 GMT -5
CDIs can go bad anytime right after you start it or act up during operation. In your case you have always had a high 3000 rpm high idle which is very high I must say, which indicates advanced timing. Idling up and Dropping rpms is a symptoms of a very rich condition as well as tight valves which will NOT hold low rpms. Any ELECTRICAL item can go bad as soon as it gets voltage to do its thing. Take a bulb as an example they can be working one day then when you go and start it up the next NADA, that sudden surge when you again turned them on blew them same with a CDI or R/R or DIODE. So yes it would seem a little ELF sneaked in at night and messed with your stuff.
So First thing is check your valve gaps set them to .004 inchs to eliminate that being the problem. Then see if it starts better.
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 19:40:01 GMT -5
Had one like that a few weeks ago actually on this forum, it was his CDI that was bad and messing with the timing.
If you happen to have a old CDI laying around try a different CDI.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 18:35:29 GMT -5
Yes the tip over could of caused that so I would just watch it and don't overfill the oil in the crankcase. The Filter wash it with your kitchen dishwater soap let it dry and put it back on.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 17:07:38 GMT -5
Yes that is oil and it is most likely coming from the Valve Cover Vent hose which they usually attach to the Air Tubing going to the Air Filter. That black box contains your Air Filter and I would imagine it is now full of oil. It may be that it was overfilled with oil and the excess is being blown out the VENT hose and into the air box.
So take the Air Box cover off and clean out the air filter being clogged with oil will make the motor run rich not enough air PLUS the Vent hose from the valve cover needs to Vent and if the Air Filter is clogged already with oil it is not venting and more oil will get squirted out
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 13:25:12 GMT -5
Hi Crawdad,
Good to see you back, if the plug is black sooty that right there tells you to much fuel, if it is covered with oil then to much oil in the mixture.
Have you checked for spark first thing to do if you have spark then maybe the carb just needs to be adjusted.
Alleyoop
Here is a good Video on how to adjust the carb on it:
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 13:18:22 GMT -5
Check for spark, take a spare or the plug out of the motor and hold it on the motor NOT THE FRAME and crank it if you have SPARK then it just may a fuel delivery problem. First make sure things are in good order no CRACKS in the air filter tubing going to the carb no cracks in the intake manifold, Vacuum lines no cracks etc.. In other words no AIR LEAKS, the only air getting to the motor should be from the air filter.
Now turn the fuel ratio screw clockwise until it stops and then turn it counter clockwise 2 - 2 1/2 turns. And try to start it
if it starts you can then fine tune the mixture you want to get the HIGHEST idle out of the mixture.
then if the rear wheel is spinning lower the idle using the IDLE SPEED screw on the throttle side that is the screw that has a spring under it.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 13:02:58 GMT -5
Nice going, it will get rid of your current problems.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 13:00:59 GMT -5
If its a chrome pipe in front of the valve it is a PAIR system, sucks in fresh air for the exhaust, many scoots come with them.
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 12:54:52 GMT -5
First check the starter and the see if the gear is good and not worn down. If good then it is most likely the starter clutch that has the problem. To get to that you need to take the flywheel off, stator and pickup coil and take the plate off about 8 bolts. You will need to replace the gasket and the crank oil seal which is inside the Plate. Here is what the starter Clutch looks like. Alleyoop    |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 0:43:57 GMT -5
Most 50cc scoots will only do 30+ you can get them to do 40+ but you need to slap in a big bore kit(bigger piston) bigger jets in the carb, maybe taller tranny gears as well etc.. But the problem is it MAY do those speeds but at Wide Open Throttle and High rpms. Running a motor at High RPMS all the time the motor will not last.
my .02
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 0:15:22 GMT -5
Good luck hope that does the trick.
|
|
is if you put in a Big Bore Kit, that motor is only 49.5cc, so your loosing power with to much gas.
..BAD TO THE BONE..