After replacing the jets with slightly larger sizes to try and optimize my scooter, my scooter will flood itself gas from the idle circuit, I think. I reset the idle mixture screw to 2.5 turns out from tight. The first time I took the carb apart, the float was out of adjustment, so I bent the metal tab to get it level with the carb housing when upside down. The same thing happened after a short test ride. I had to push the scooter home. It was evident too much gas was being supplied as I had a wet plug and gas sitting in the air intake hose. I took the carb apart and the float had creeped back to the same position, so I ordered a rebuild kit to get a new float.
A week later, I put the new float in and made sure it was level with the carb housing. When I started it up, it idled okay for about 15 seconds then started to bog down like it was too rich. To keep it running, I'd have to rev it up and hold the rpm's, then it would get super rich and die if I let it go back to idle. What should I check next? TIA
Unfortunately, my 150cc scooter is burning oil. I can smell it burning from the exhaust and a bit of white smoke is coming out when I start it up. The engine is stock, there's 8k miles on it. I'd like to buy a top end kit and rebuild it later this year, but I have a few questions:
1. Should I remove the PAIR exhaust system when I rebuild the top end?
2. 150cc or 172cc top end?
3. If I go with a 172cc, will I need a larger carb or can I just increase the jet sizes on my stock carb?
4. What are the good quality piston kits on the market?
Well, after using beads in my rear wheel for a year, I can notice the difference. I'll be putting balancing beads in the front tire when it's time to replace it. I was planning on getting a Michelin Power Pure SC to match my rear. I noticed that prices are going up on those. My size is $60 on BikeBandit.com currently.
Does anybody have a review on these Kenda K6022 Kozmik tires? $31 currently...
it sounds like you may want to just get a new speedo puck if you drill it out it will necessarily be a round hole but you need a square hole so you will need to re-crimp. that's not something easy to do accurately. Just a little wobble will accelerate wear significantly
I think you will find the square part of the cable is jammed inside that worm gear
and it sounds like you already have a plan of action
I tried heating up the housing a few times and pulling the cable out,the cable stretched and broke inside the worm gear metal piece. If i drill out the remnants, id have to re crimp the new cable inside there. What could you use to re crimp that metal piece? Im thinking ill have to use my vice to get enough force to actually crimp the metal around the new speedo cable properly.
My speedometer cable broke inside the line, i ordered a new one with similar ends that have the square cable exposed. Upon taking the end out at the front wheel, i found this end on it (see picture). Can i separate the cable from the helical gear part and use my new cable? I cant find any speedometer cables online with this end. Maybe adding some heat will help get the cable out. Thanks for the help
When the weather is colder (40-55 degrees F) my scooter will never stay running when I start it cold. I usually have to start it 2-4 times while its warming up. During this warm up time, If I twist the throttle even a little bit, the scooter will usually die. I've adjusted the idle mixture screw slightly, but that had little effect. Once the scooter is warm at these temperatures, it will idle just fine. Should i increase the pilot jet size? I know from when I cleaned the carb last time that there is not a jet size number on there so I'd have to guess. Does anybody know what the typical stock pilot jet size in on a 150cc gy6? 3 5?
About 3 weeks ago, I adjusted my valves for the second time. For the last few weeks before that, my scooter would stop running as it was coming back down to idle sometimes and it would take longer to start. I originally set my valve clearances at .005" on both valves in 2018. When I opened the head cover and measured them this time, the intake was at .004" and the exhaust was at .008". I adjusted them so the intake was at .003" and the exhaust was at .004". An issue is that I did these adjustments while my engine was warm. It was sitting for 30-45 minutes after I rode it while I was doing these adjustments, and I didn't re-adjust the idle fuel/air mixture after I made the adjustments. I now know that adjusting the valves should be done when the engine is cold.
Ever since then, my scooter will start easier/quicker but it will stop running as it's coming back down to idle sometimes. Do you think I need to re-adjust my valves while the engine is cold and then adjust the mixture screw or can I just adjust the screw? The other thing to remember is that the temps are lower now by about 15 degrees F.
I installed this belt last night. My scooter has 3,280 miles on it and I noticed lately it seemed that I was running at a higher RPM while riding at about 40 mph so I figured it was time for a belt change. The belt was $8 and came from China, pretty sure it's a knock off. I noticed while shopping for Bando belts that they usually have a green rectangle somewhere on the outside band of the belt. Does the green rectangle mean anything? The stock belt that I removed also had a green rectangle on the belt, it was some Chinese word brand that I don't remember. The old belt was 1-1.5mm less wide than the new belt.
It sounds like the same things should be replaced on these scooters as other chinese scooters: fuel lines, spark plug, belt, tires. I think if you properly tune the stock carb and re-jet along with properly setting the valve clearances, they run just fine. At least mine does.
I just rolled over 3k miles on mine and my rear chinese tire is almost worn out. I'm really looking forward to putting a decent tire with balancing beads on there this fall.
Then it sounds like the 8 8 jet is too rich at WOT. The popping noise could also be an air leak somewhere along the intake or the exhaust system. If you wore out any rubber grommets, gaskets or anything, they need to be replaced or repaired so they make a tight seal. These engines are sensitive to air and exhaust flow. Is the stock exhaust still on there?