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Post by jaciche on Oct 25, 2018 9:13:39 GMT -5
Nice! Any idea what the price will be?
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Post by jaciche on Oct 15, 2018 8:28:22 GMT -5
Here you go!  |
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Post by jaciche on Aug 24, 2018 8:30:31 GMT -5
So if I bought one of those and got rid of the rear blinkers that are mounted on the side of the mud flap/license plate area, would i have to get some wiring harnesses to match the 2 others in the last picture? That's what makes me nervous as I have no experience wiring stuff into new harnesses. |
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Post by jaciche on Aug 23, 2018 18:17:54 GMT -5
I took the tail light apart after work today and looked at all the solder welds, played with the LED's and everything. The 3 that usually don't work were dimly lit so they were all working. When I have some more time, I'll try to re solder the 2 outside LED's that are in the circuit that aren't working. Hopefully there's just a bad weld/connection to the board. I put it all back together because I wont have time to do it for a while.
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Post by jaciche on Aug 22, 2018 17:27:41 GMT -5
My tail light is modeled after a Yamaha Zuma. Each red ring should have 6 LED's lit when the scooter is running. The brake lights fill the inside of the circle when I pull a brake lever. This picture was taken while the scooter was idling. In my picture, you'll see that 3 of the LED's in the right ring are not lit. Sometimes they don't light at all, sometimes they are lit but can barely be seen and sometimes they flicker to their full brightness. I have tried disconnecting the wiring harnesses on the back half of the scooter and wiggling wires but haven't had any success with fixing the issue. Can anyone point me in the right direction for what to check next? I have a multimeter and am not afraid to use it if I need to. I can't find a direct replacement for this tail light online.  |
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Post by jaciche on Aug 16, 2018 8:48:12 GMT -5
Thanks for the response everyone. Now lets talk about tire balancing. Do the wheels need to be balanced once new tires are installed? What should be used if needed? I've read another thread on here about putting beads in the tire.
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Post by jaciche on Aug 15, 2018 12:40:41 GMT -5
Im a Michelin type a guy My needs may be a little more aggressive than others, I absolutely love these tires and is my go to for my 150 from now on.  According to Amazon, you can get these tires for bit cheaper than City Grips. The price difference isn't much, but is how does the performance and tread life compare to City Grips? |
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Post by jaciche on Aug 15, 2018 9:48:42 GMT -5
I'm starting to look for tires for my brothers' Agility 125. I believe his front tire size is 120/70-12 and the rear is 130/70-12. The tire sizes on my 150 are the same or very similar. Back when I had my motorcycle, I really liked the Michelin pilot road tires, I see that they have some scooter options like the City Grips and the Power Pures. What tires have you all used that you like? Any other tires that should be considered? I'm looking for tires that have a good mix of gripping the road and a decent tread life.
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Post by jaciche on Aug 7, 2018 11:01:20 GMT -5
I run my hog without any additives until the last few tanks before storage. All the premium gas around here contains 10% ethanol. On those last few tanks, I add the recommended amount of sta-bil to each full tank of gas. When I put it away for the year, I fill up the tank with gas and add a little more sta-bil than recommended. When I come get it in the spring, it always starts right up. sta-bil.co.uk/product/sta-bil-storage-fuel-stabilizer/ |
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Post by jaciche on Jul 23, 2018 8:29:23 GMT -5
I can freely spin the back wheel by turning the clutch assembly and when i remove the starter i can move the variator with a bit of effort, it doesn't really wanna do a full rotation though... If the variator can't turn a full rotation, that's not a good sign...hopefully someone will chime in with better news. |
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Post by jaciche on Jul 23, 2018 8:26:16 GMT -5
Alright, I already went to the hardware store and put 2 locknuts on there with a lock washer. Double nutting should hold it. Having the exhaust header pipe loose on the engine side was the issue. I've ridden it for 30 miles since i tightened up the nuts on the exhaust studs and I have not had a single backfire. Thanks for your help. I wish I had checked the stock nuts to make sure they were tight in the first place! |
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Post by jaciche on Jul 20, 2018 14:07:11 GMT -5
I think I found the problem. I started my scooter for the first time in 2 weeks and listened to it idle. It sounded like something along the exhaust was loose and leaking. I found that one of the exhaust stud nuts is completely off the scooter. Are there any local hardware stores in the US that have these or do I need to order some online?
Edit: It looks like i'm going to have to order one. Could I throw a 6mm lock nut washer on there to serve as a band aid until I get some new exhaust nuts delivered?
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Post by jaciche on Jul 3, 2018 8:06:44 GMT -5
a smaller valve clearance allows the valve to open earlier, farther and close later it will also help with longevity of the head by not letting the valve seat slam shut. The cam will slow down the valve just before it makes contact with the seat but can't do so if it hits to early. .0027 maybe is the exact number on one particular scooter and .0029 is it for another scooter. but it's really difficult to be that accurate with a fealer gage and sometimes a scooter is all the way out at .0035 or something so the books say .004 because that's going to work for almost all scooters even if its not the best it all depends on how much your personal cylinder and valve head expand with heat. oh I almost forgot. popping can be caused by an exhaust leak. At idle the idle enrichment kicks in and higher rpm=vacuum will pull fuel+oxygen leak= popping. I'll adjust my valve clearances during the next oil change which will happen after 210 more miles. After hearing your responses, it does make a lot of sense about there being a harsh change between when gas is supplied from the main jet versus when it goes back to being supplied from the pilot jet. I'll try to keep backing out the idle mixture screw 1/8th at a time, but I think a bigger pilot jet size will be needed. When i ride slowly with a little throttle and roll off the throttle, it never backfires. I will check the exhaust for leaks too. |
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Post by jaciche on Jul 2, 2018 12:20:20 GMT -5
She is just a tad lean on the low end when you chop the throttle. you can adjust the Air screw or may need to upjet 1 on the Pilot Jet. A Classic Case of Throttle Chop.. You don't have to Chop the throttle feather it off and most of it will not be there . .005 on the Valves, I have never set mine that loose. not sure were you got the information on that but its incorrect. I run a tight .003 on the Intake and .004 on the Exhaust. There seems to be allot of bunk information on the 150 Valve lash but always remember the spec given has Idiot insurance built in it
Ok, is there anything wrong with setting both valves at .004"? What's the advantage of having the intake valve clearance set to .003"?
I forgot to mention that i put a bigger main jet in the carb when I took it off for a cleaning. A 105 was in there, I replaced it with a 112 since it ran like it wasn't getting enough gas while cruising from half to full throttle. I am considering putting a 110 in there at the end of this riding season. The main jet change probably is a contributing factor to the backfiring that I'm experiencing.
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Post by jaciche on Jul 2, 2018 8:29:25 GMT -5
My scooter has 950 miles on it now. I set the valve clearances to .005" at 500 miles. Starting around 850 miles, I noticed that my scooter backfires while decelerating. It doesn't backfire every time i slow down, but more often than not. I also noticed that if i roll off the throttle very slowly or only am riding at a slower speed and less throttle, it wont backfire when I slow down. The backfire always happens AFTER i have completely released the throttle and it's back at the idle position, but the RPM's are still dropping. Last night, I turned the idle air mixture screw out 1/8th of a turn to richen it up a bit. That didnt seem to help, maybe a little bit by having fewer backfires while riding.
Also FWIW: When my scooter is cold and i just start riding it, I hear some ticking noises as the engine runs across the entire RPM band. I'm guessing this noise is coming from the metal parts around the valves. Once they bike warms up, the noise goes away. Maybe my valve clearances are now more that .005" 
Do you have any ideas on what I should look into next to get rid of this issue?
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