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Post by lain on Aug 12, 2015 11:04:12 GMT -5
It's an environmental protection device, recycles the oily air that comes off that hose from the front of the engine and puts it into your air supply to be reused/burned off. Maybe charcoal canister, I'm not sure but I know that connection setup is for recycling the oily air from the vent on the front of the engine. You could eliminate it if you think oily air is causing your idle to run rich, or you could simply adjust the a/f mix screw.
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Post by lain on Aug 12, 2015 6:42:32 GMT -5
Well it makes it harder for me to use one hand to press brake, starter, and throttle It should be easier. I just put my hand on the brake lever and squeeze and press the starter button at the same time to startup, and if it needs a tiny bit of throtte to start I roll my hand back a lil bit. Maybe it takes long fingers or something like I have. |
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Post by lain on Aug 11, 2015 20:35:35 GMT -5
Well I finally found the metal plaque with the details, it was under the gas tank.... Its is a 1992 Jawa Alleycat 50cc 2 stroke moped made in prague, czech, has 3145 miles on it. The wiring is still sort of confusing to me, lots of wires connect to multiple things unlike the modern scooters we have today that have wires for each connection. It uses the same spark plug that lawn mowers use. I think it was stored for a long time and forgotten about because it seems they lost the wire for the ignition coil>spark plug connection and replaced it with another wire that does not quite fit the spark plug or ignition coil. It was raining today so I didn't really mess with it, probably will tomorrow. The only thing it is missing it seems is a seat, but I'm sure I can figure something out for that.
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Post by lain on Aug 11, 2015 17:51:47 GMT -5
I've theorized that they make v slides slightly different as some sets I buy are loose or hard to fit, or even after proper install make the backplate stick.
Is the backplate you are using the same shape as the inside of the variator? Different variators have different shapes inside, you can't always use one backplate with a different variator, I had 2 variators become damaged by using slightly different shaped backplates, that look okay but if you move it around enough you hear and see the same spots you are talking about make contact with the variator inside.
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Post by lain on Aug 11, 2015 16:06:44 GMT -5
Clean the carb, if the issue is still there then adjust the accelerator pump on the carb.
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Post by lain on Aug 11, 2015 15:59:17 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Aug 11, 2015 10:53:41 GMT -5
Performed an experiment yesterday. Rode her for 20 min WOT but didn't shut her off, just slow putted around the parking lot, then turned around and rode home with no problem. As long as I don't shut her off, there is no stalling. Once I kill the ignition and try to start back up and ride hot, Stall stall stall. Let her sit overnight, and I am good again. Have you tried revving a little bit while starting? That's exactly how my scooter acts, but I know my carb is tuned too rich. I have mine tuned rich, it starts up the first time cold easily, but once warm will not start without revving. Runs and does everything great, just needs a little revving to start warm. |
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Post by lain on Aug 10, 2015 2:55:30 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Aug 10, 2015 0:56:41 GMT -5
Whoever told you about CDI's is very wrong. I've NEVER had a CDI just simply stop working, it is quite the opposite. Every time I've had a CDI die or fry it would slowly pickup symptoms until one day it would either stall out mid travel and leave me pushing it home or it would die after starting, or it would stall out and would not start until it cooled down to a "cold" engine temp again.. CDI's are just tiny boxes of capacitors.
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Post by lain on Aug 9, 2015 20:14:00 GMT -5
So I finally got around to taking this thing apart. The problem seems to be the engine was on the intake stroke with the intake wide open, and over tie as it sat in someones back yard for over a year with no carb in it and nothing to cover the intake it rusted the inside of the cylinder, the top of the piston, and the valve port and entire inside of the combustion chamber portion of the head. Very thick rust. I dug deeper and found the rest of it was pretty nice, this had obviously been the first time it was opened, nothing else was rusted but a little of the shaft where the varitator sits, but that can be taken care of. Seems neglect killed the topend, but instead of getting a stock replacement I think I'll just rebuild it using a bbk.
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Post by lain on Aug 9, 2015 20:04:10 GMT -5
A crushed filter is better than no filter. The important part is that the top of the filter where the rubber ring is remains in it's shape, if it warps it will not cover the hole completely and be useless essentially.
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Post by lain on Aug 9, 2015 20:00:21 GMT -5
If adjusting valves doesn't work then try another CDI or ignition coil. Also is the spark plug boot tight on the spark plug or does it jiggle a lot?
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Post by lain on Aug 8, 2015 22:53:37 GMT -5
Onewheeldrives first video shows how it SHOULD fit----- (Thank You good Sir) Compared to the picture provided by Mr. Collector, there is an obvious flaw---- May I repeat my last question??? What did the Dealer you purchased from have to say Via E-mail?  No need to mention the parts dealer but, I am curious to see what they say after this information has been provided...... The Filter may be removed in some folks opinion..... To answer Mr. Iain, Yes, it is to catch any metal flakes that the cheapo metal filter may not get during breakin or regular use. If you see Metal in your oil after the initial break in, Things may have gone really bad.......... Good Luck!!!!!! If it catches the metal filings etc, do you still need to change the oil after initial breakin or does it protect enough to go longer without? Just wondering about the actual economic purpose of this device. Who is this for? People who often break-iin new rings, like junk racers? |
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Post by lain on Aug 8, 2015 22:48:55 GMT -5
Better to leak oil and know how to fix it than to leak gas and find out as you fly vertically from a fireball that was once your pride and joy.
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Post by lain on Aug 8, 2015 22:26:49 GMT -5
Better running rich than not running at all, not to mention rich lubricates and cools the engine more than running lean. What makes you feel it is running rich though? Did you install the uni filter yet? I was able to go up by 10 after installing my uni to a #100 main jet from #  . Though I guess the smaller area for the combustion will decrease the amount of gas that can be exploded in that tiny space. |
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. Though I guess the smaller area for the combustion will decrease the amount of gas that can be exploded in that tiny space.