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Post by lain on Aug 14, 2015 18:47:08 GMT -5
Ah yeah I guess I did misunderstand, but I think I am still not understanding exactly. You say it was "hot seized" before, but it still ran? A seize means... well simply what seize means; stop, halt, no more movement, stuck in place. My guess is it was either tuned too lean before and the new bbk with new jets being a different engine now resolved the issue only because the parts that were suffering and the parts that caused it are now gone. As long as it is not running hot anymore, that is the important thing.
How close is your exhaust from the intake? I don't understand why you are trying to move the heat. When the engine is pumping it pushes the heat down the exhaust pipe and into the muffler where it travels through some fancy tubing and baffles and exits out into the air. Maybe you have one of those exhaust tubes that also have a tube on it that is supposed to recycle the exhaust air? I had one of those a long time ago and just cut it off with a hacksaw and patched the hole so it would be a normal tube that goes only to the muffler.
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Post by lain on Aug 14, 2015 18:39:48 GMT -5
Well ya can look at it sorta my way I figure this whole deal, fake big valve, fake perf exh, is all just Semi Finished Product. I almost done mind ill have enough time in my head that I could have bought 10-20 of them. but I know it will be correct. Gotta Hard Kitchen Counter top?? Get a thick piece of glass on that counter and throw down some emory cloth and swirl that puppy all around and remove the scratches, Heck y'ull be bumping the compression at no charge!! Whallla! Lain High Perf Head. Thats a Forty Dollar bill right there Wouldn't that just create more scratches? I've never used emory cloth and didn't know about it before your post so don't blame me if that question sounds stupid lol I'm not sure if it was meant to have big valves, I don't think it was though. Just the standard head the chinese kits come with with bigger chamber but same valve sizes I think. |
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Post by lain on Aug 14, 2015 17:45:27 GMT -5
Maybe the shipping company should be contacted also........ Just throwing that idea out there. Sorry thing did not work out. The seller could blame you for not checking the package upon delivery........ Not really worth all the effort IMO 10 tacos and a few Cheesburgers would have the same Crap results for the money spent....  I literally got it as soon as the truck got here, brought it upstairs, opened it up, and took those pics. Nothing has been done with the kit since. I would have put up with crappy design, or a few scratches, but the scratches on this I feel make it completely useless and if the scratches weren't there I feel it would be a nice kit for the purpose of just giving life to an old engine that never had a lot of use. The cylinder doesn't look that bad, but the head does. The cylinder seems to have closer to what looks like 30 degree angles crosshatch, but no scuffs or anything wrong it seems, the crosshatch goes all the way from end to end and there is no rust or anything inside. Just if these scratches weren't there I'd be using it. |
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Post by lain on Aug 14, 2015 17:42:25 GMT -5
I don't see the damage in the pictures. It's hard to see it in the second pic, but in the first pic you can see the top of the bushing that comes pressed in the variator when you get it (not the big one that slides into the variator) is sticking out. If you look at a regular one they are not sticking out. In the second pic if you look closely you can see where the other end of the bushing has created a ledge inside the variator. |
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Post by lain on Aug 14, 2015 15:13:13 GMT -5
You really should investigate that heating issue flordia... Like rcq92130 said the plastics shouldn't have melted. I have a similar setup from the same company (Scorpion) and I have rode for 16 hours straight in one day with only 10 minute stops every 3-4 hours and none ofmy plastic melted man and it was a very hot day... So considering a similar setup from the same company can run with less heat (and btw it takes a LOT of heat to melt those plastics, they are made for heat) that goes to prove your setup is running too hot. |
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Post by lain on Aug 14, 2015 9:21:02 GMT -5
So recently my top speed has been going down by a couple mph every couple days or so, then yesterday I heard some weird noises like a feild mouse had got into my cvt case and was having a party in there. I opened it up and what I see is the variator had come apart somehow, like the bushing that is in the middle of the variator somehow came out and was forcing the variator to stay open slightly. I already replaced it with a spare I had on hand, went from having a top of about 35 to back to going 50+ but just look at this weird variator issue, what do you guy think could cause this?   |
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Post by lain on Aug 14, 2015 7:31:49 GMT -5
Hey guys, I plan to return this kit. Sure the ad shows it is obviously a cheap kit, but the ad said nothing about it being damaged goods. I buy lot of cheap stuff on ebay, no one is supposed to be allowed to sell damaged goods unless they state clearly in the ad that it is damaged. Just because you expect it to be bad quality doesn't mean you should be expecting it to arrive damaged and useless. Money is money, period.
Tthe seller doesn't seem to know how to read as they totally ignored my last message and pretty much asked if I liked it which is like adding insult to injury almost... especially when I started the message to them with "I am unsatisfied with the condition the product arrived in."
The scratches are all deep, and a few deep dings on it too. Hang a fingernail? Not sure what that means really but if I were to run my nails accross the metal vertical to the scratches my fingernails dip into the scratches and get caught, so I would say deep, not light.
I wonder how they expected it to arrive in good condition with only thin bubblewrap bags and literally 1 thin sheet of styrofoam between the top of the box and the products, nothing to pad anyt other parts of it... I am suspecting it was not like this when they packaged it but during shipping became damaged and would explain why all the small parts have sratches and stuff on them too. The piston rings ffs were wedged between the bottom of the box and the skirt of the cylinder and the piston was just loose jingling around in the box bouncing off of everything in the box it seems.
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Post by lain on Aug 13, 2015 21:43:45 GMT -5
Don't you think the scratches will cause leaks between the cylinder and head? Can't feel it from here, but if you cant really feel them either the gasket will seal little scratches. You got a scratch here and there, but nothing that runs all the way from the cylinder to the edge. But there are scratches like that on the head. |
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Post by lain on Aug 13, 2015 20:42:04 GMT -5
Maybe these are returns? That's how the price is so low and why the packaging's messed up, still it looks like it'll work OK. Don't you think the scratches will cause leaks between the cylinder and head? |
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Post by lain on Aug 13, 2015 17:40:12 GMT -5
The packaging was horrible, it arrived with deep scratches and dings all over and the piston scuffed and scratched. Contacted the seller, awaiting response. There was only 1 thin piece of styrofoam and the bubblewrap bags to "protect" them during shipping... I'm unsure but I think these are not aluminum parts, there is rust in the bolt holes on the cylinder and it is significantly heavier than my old 50mm bbk cylinder I have in my old parts bin.    |
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Post by lain on Aug 13, 2015 10:06:17 GMT -5
It should arrive today, I'll be taking pics of everything before install so you can see what the kit looks like. Yeah YGWYPF doesn't bother me since the engine in question has just been sitting without use since 2013 and was only breifly used and was only put to rest becasuse the engine sat ont he intake stroke without a carb or cover to the intake manifold and got rain and snow in the topend and rusted it bad. Just trying to give life to what did not have life.
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Post by lain on Aug 12, 2015 20:56:13 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Aug 12, 2015 20:36:57 GMT -5
I always remove anything like that since it is not necessary for it to function and often functions better without.
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Post by lain on Aug 12, 2015 20:35:18 GMT -5
So I have been trying to figure this out all day now. I got this moped for free and all the wires were disconnected and the carb was... well let's just say I now know what 20 year old solid gas looks like... and how 3 cans of carb cleaner is what it takes... Everything is all cleaned out, everything hooked up properly. I can tell the issue is no spark because when I read the end of the spark plug boot I get 0v!!! I trace down the line and find the power reaches the thyristor and then does not go to the ignition coil. The problem seems to be the thyristor but I am unsure as I have never worked on a 2 stroke before, and never worked on anything made before 2012 before today. I also checked the other wires from the alternator. The green wire came up with around 30v, the blue came up with around 35v, the red came up with around 45, the white nothing, the yellow nothing. All reading taken on the 50v AC setting with an analog multimeter with a needle so very hard to get accurate readings while pumping a moped. I am guessing if the yellow is the pickup it would read something, but since it would read 0.2v according to the manual I think my meter just doesn't read it. I also checked the yellow wire with the ohmz reading while pumping it never dropped from infinity which I think means it never produces any current, is this correct? If that is correct then I would think the culprit is the pickup aka the yellow wire? I also checked all the wires on the thyristor. Power goes to the thyristor via red wire from alternator at about 45v, the yellow wire goes from the alternator to the thyristor, and if it is working properly should read 0.2v but i cannot read that small so I couldnt get a reading off of it like above. The white and blue wires read 0v. As far as I can tell the blue wire should be the wire responsible for sending the power to the ignition coil. Anyone have any ideas? Sources for the info I have gathered: jawamoped.com/210WorkshopManual.pdfwww.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Jawa_Thyristor |
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Post by lain on Aug 12, 2015 11:56:03 GMT -5
Next is figuring out why my throttle is so loose Define "loose"... There is usually slack on the throttle, if there wasn't the throttle would constantly be throttling or it would be too tight. It's better to be loose. You may have a dirty carburetor if it's been sitting for over a year. Gas solidifies in carburetors in only a few months and can clog the carburetor and make it not work normally. Your scooter should just start with a simple press of the starter button in about 1 second. The max it should take would be 5 seconds, which is normally on a cold (40 below) day. |
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