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Post by lain on Apr 6, 2015 12:49:42 GMT -5
When you did the BBK did you remove the green part on the case gasket?  If not, I suspect that the piece you found is from that part of the gasket... I never removed anything under the cylinder jug, so I never removed the part of the case that has that gasket. I checked that part of the case too, the bolts are all still factory tight, never been removed. |
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Post by lain on Apr 6, 2015 11:34:12 GMT -5
Mine is 21mm, if you know someone with a car try to see if you can get it off with their tire iron. They sometimes have a few sizes on the cross irons. They use the same nuts used to attach car wheels as they do on the back wheel of scooters, or around the same size. I use the cross iron that has 4 different sizes or any other car tire iron I can get my hands on at the time to get the size of a back wheel nut when helping friends when I don't have my sockets on me to check.
If you have an impact wrench, you should use that to get it off since it's very easy. Make sure to use proper impact sockets!
If not try putting the back wheel on the ground, put a plank or something through the tire, step on an end of the plank to keep it steady, then take the tire iron and try to turn it. If it doesn't turn with all your effort try whacking the end of the iron (the curved end that goes off to the side, or whack one of the other arms to the sides on the cross iron) with a mallet or something heavy to do the same thing impact wrenches do.
Oh, and always remember: "lefty loosey, righty tighty." The wheel may try to turn when you go left at first, this is good, it means your wheel is on tight.
Also, you may or may not have to take the muffler off to get the wheel off, but removing the muffler makes it a LOT easier to work in that area and on the wheel.
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Post by lain on Apr 6, 2015 11:24:14 GMT -5
Not sure, maybe take the fan shroud off and look around the cylinder base. These issues (threads) you've had lately, have me concerned to be honest. With the head nuts and cylinder side bolts coming loose and possible gasket pieces in the oil. For the oil, I usually change mine once a month. Usually by 1,000km it's black--- which is why I change mine before that point anyway. The oil level dropping, other than normal use, could be a leak (case or cyl. base gasket in oil?) or possibly a ring issue, IMO (which blow-by was mentioned in the other thread by hillbillybob). If you feel your oil is getting darker faster than normal, your rings/cylinder could be worn/failing for whatever reason, and the combustion products/byproducts could be trashing your oil--not sure. I feel like a month is too soon to change the oil, I used to do it every 3 months or so before installing the BBK, now I also need to change mine every month. I'm not sure if it is normal usage or not, comparing to the old non BBK setup I used to have. I find that by the time I am going to change the oil because it gets black I have lost about 1/4 of my oil. On my old 50cc setup the oil would not get black in the first month, it would slowly go from light yellow to brownish to brown to dark brown to black then I would change it by the third or forth month and it would have lost almost no oil. With the BBK it goes from light yellow to brown to black over a month. I'm thinking the rings may have got scuffed or may have scratched something when the bolts were loose, I am going to be ordering new gaskets soon to tear it down and do a run through. Probably take an extra measure and put some gasket sealer on this time. |
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Post by lain on Apr 6, 2015 10:52:53 GMT -5
The only problem I find with the pods is they eventually start to tear where the pod and the rubber connects. I've had to drive home without a filter once because one of them fell off in the winter. As part of maintenance I check for loose broken cracked items. I have the same pod filter on there 3 years I have cleaned it a half a dozen times. In that time I have also known aid a bead of sillaicone where the rubber sits in the filter. When removing the pod for cleaning I noticed it rubber would turn freely seemed like air would get in there not filtered. John Not exactly sure what you are trying to say here, but if you are saying it comes loose where the rubber connects to the pod, that is what I said. I just put gorilla tape on it to make it last longer, but if you don't catch it when it starts you end up riding home without a filter eventually. |
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 22:56:10 GMT -5
Why the pod and not the uni? Just curious Nothing wrong with the uni I have the pod in stock and ready to go. The only problem I find with the pods is they eventually start to tear where the pod and the rubber connects. I've had to drive home without a filter once because one of them fell off in the winter. |
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 22:48:28 GMT -5
if i'm not mistaken geh3333 has ncy bbk along with many other mods reaching 67mph. i think he had to change the gears to get that speed. you might consider doing the gears first. i'd get some info from him or another member before you order any parts. most problems with any bbk is caused by improper installation or running lean. imo as long as you properly install, rejet the carb and break the engine in then you shouldn't have any problems. oh, and don't forget oil changes/level. Thank you for the reply. I re-jetted pretty heavily after installing UNI filter. I went from a 105 main jet to a 130, that is when she ran best. I just installed an Exhaust and the 130 main Jet still feels fine. I may consider installing a high performance CDI but I am not sure if they will add any performance to a 150CC and can cause the engine to run hotter. I do not think it is worth it, but I could be under the wrong assumption\impression. Thank you Never heard of performance CDI's causing higher heat levels, my engine actually runs cooler with the Casoli performance CDI. |
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 22:37:33 GMT -5
That seems a bit strange that there isn't enough room for washers on the head bolts. Were there washers on there originally, from the factory? Are you sure everything is seated down properly from the cylinder on up, when torquing the nuts down? Sorry, my mistake, I meant to say no "extra" washers. |
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 20:25:25 GMT -5
Thats actually the nuts I am using on my cam, but they still come loose >.> The locking part has become nearly completely flat on the nuts, maybe new ones might help, yeah, they wear out if you remove them multiple times. a new set and you shouldn't have any more problems. Cool, any chance you know the size? I normally ride to the hardware store and bring in a spare nut or bolt for them to match, but I'm not going to be able to do that this time haha |
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 16:39:36 GMT -5
Also lain do you know what that connecter would go to? Not sure, I don't have one of those, but I have seen one of those on a friend's scoot and it was also just hanging around not connected to anything and everything worked fine. My guess is it may be an accessory hookup or something else extra, obviously not needed for it to run since it ran for you already. |
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 16:33:43 GMT -5
lain I'm confused haha I just put another starter solenoid on pushed the starter button and she came straight to life. Another thing that is confusing me is its starting with out a battery to frame ground? I really wasent expecting it to work It may have just had a bad solenoid all along and maybe that is what prevented the thief from riding it away. That scoot did not want to be stolen haha. Don't let it run or start without proper grounding, you'll end up frying a lot of stuff which will in turn force you to replace things. You can get a spool of 12 gauge wire for around $10, which is substantially less in comparison to any part or combination of parts you would have to replace when they fry. Add grounding wire to the battery and the frame, and check for anything else that may be wacky, like missing ground for the valve cover or the starter motor. |
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 15:22:20 GMT -5
You need an ignition switch to use the electric starter. You can also try to bridge the terminals on the solenoid, but that is a last resort, it can be very dangerous, if you have a fuel leak even fatal!
What the thief did was try to bypass the ignition by connecting the terminals how they are supposed to connect when the switch is turned to on with the key.
They probably have little to no experience with scooters on a REAL level, and did not know you didn't have to mutilate the wires to bypass it and kick it you just disconnect the wires and kick it to life.
WHAT TO DO: You should disconnect the old ignition switch from the connector spot until the new ignition switch arrives. Then try to kickstart it by holding the brake, put the kill-switch to engine run position, and kick it sort of gently, a good engine will start within 3 kicks usually. If it doesn't start there may be other issues with it.
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 14:58:11 GMT -5
could pick up a few locking nuts from the hardware store if thread locker isn't working for you.  i would assume it would solve your problem. Thats actually the nuts I am using on my cam, but they still come loose >.> The locking part has become nearly completely flat on the nuts, maybe new ones might help, so I think I shall pick some up anyways, but I would like to take extra measures to ensure I don't have to deal with it again. Will the rubber lock nuts work here, or will the rubber just melt from the heat? I would think rubber would work better since rubber absorbs vibration. |
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 11:03:44 GMT -5
Yeah, I already have a tube of that, was planning to use it on the 2 bolts on the cylinder jug, but the 4 nuts on the cam are exposed to oil constantly, I need thread locker that not only resists heat but is also oil resistant. |
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 9:23:33 GMT -5
I am reading up on how to prevent vibration loosening of bolts and nuts in the engine because I found my cam nuts loose and the 2 cylinder bolts very loose.
I am thinking I could use some sort of thread locker that would withstand the heat on the 2 side cylinder bolts, but what can you use on the cam nuts? I don't have enough space to add washers on the cam nuts, they pretty much level with the top of the nuts when I lock it down. Is there some sort of thread locker glue that can withstand heat and oil?
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Post by lain on Apr 5, 2015 8:01:04 GMT -5
Richer mixture means cooler engine, which means the heat will not reach that far on the plug. The burn marks on spark plugs normally come from heat, not actual burning of the plug. You would see the burn marks reach far on a plug that was running lean, or shorter burn marks if it is richer. I'd personally tweak the engine to be a little bit leaner than it is, but I suppose there's no harm and may even benefit from staying at the current slightly rich setting if you are in an area that is normally warm or hot.
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