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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 9:37:17 GMT -5
The accelerator pump is not in play on decel. Normaly, popping on decel depends on: To small pilot jet. A leak between the cylinder and the header pipe or muffler. A leak between the carburetor and intake. Watch the pump as you let go of throttle from full throttle, you should see the pump slightly pump on the decel too if close enough, if it isn't touching at all though it won't provide that tiny bit of extra fuel. So... i kinda does. If it isn't pumping then there's a problem, but I was asking in case he maybe was fiddling around over there and accidentily moved the metal bar away so it wouldn't pump anymore at all which would give him a lean condition. I just recently was checking on mine, if it is too far away it'll be too lean in all ranges and you will hear it on the decel. But that's given that the mix is already really lean to begin with. The accel pump does seem to control the mix at least on my carb both on acceleration and deceleration, but it only changes it very momentarily. Either way, it's worth just glancing down and making sure that metal bar isn't all fudged up. It takes like 1 second. |
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 1:31:35 GMT -5
Alright guys so I put on a new exhaust, carb, uni filter, performance cdi.. so I'm getting a light popping noise from the exhaust when slowing down just wanting to know if it's normal. Put a 115 jet on and followed alleyoops post on how to tune a carb. I'm still not getting a perfect steady idle but it's running better than it ever has. i took off the old exhaust gasket and put on a new one as well   Popping on decel is a sign of running lean. Have you tried messing with the needle or accelerator pump? |
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 0:24:26 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 0:12:47 GMT -5
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fuel pump
by: lain - Apr 14, 2015 17:37:38 GMT -5
Post by lain on Apr 14, 2015 17:37:38 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Apr 14, 2015 17:28:20 GMT -5
I was trying to remember if valve clearance on the exhaust valve would cause over pressure of the crank case. In any event, it's something else for him to try. It would also mean it would be harder to start, and I know when I had my 150, as that valve tightened up, it didn't like to idle as well when it was cold. Well it currently idles well, but it does have starting issues after it's warmed up. I need to rev it to start it usually. I'll have to check the valves later, just got home from a long ride so they are too hot to adjust atm |
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Post by lain on Apr 14, 2015 14:29:26 GMT -5
This is what u need . I made this setup for my scoot and for another member on the site .  Did you get the tube or did you make it? I just ordered a uni filter and also want it out of the way. |
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Post by lain on Apr 14, 2015 11:41:28 GMT -5
I don't know if this is late or not... but for the plastic repair, just get some ABS cement. If you need to make a filler, take the shavings from some ABS pipe and make a slury with the cement. It's the best way to patch, repair and modify ABS plastic panels. Its what we do with goldwing fairings which are ABS plastic. How long does that hold up? |
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Post by lain on Apr 14, 2015 11:40:25 GMT -5
Here are a couple pics . I have flex seal on my hands from the roof fix, so its not some crazy disease, lol. Both holes on the shroud are broke , the holes for the bolts that secure it to the engine.  .  . I had the scoop attached with some metal brackets , they held up pretty good. Kids ride around my town in much worse conditions. No shroud, broken plastic all over, hanging lights and controls and plastic... I try to flag them down and give them my # all the time but they don't wanna hear from some dude who looks like a cop on a scooter lol |
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Post by lain on Apr 14, 2015 10:52:43 GMT -5
So, I noticed I have been losing so much freakin oil lately that I have been gettin oil every week now! So I've decided to finally do a teardown and I ordered some new gaskets.
Unlike the last time this was this much of a problem, I do not seem to be burning oil, just losing it. I am thinking it may be coming out of the valve cover drain hose since I can smell it at high revs under load while on the road, but it smells hot but not burning. It is not a problem at lower RPMs or if I keep around half throttle.
I found gasket pieces in my oil last time I did the change so I am thinking the base gasket tore or something, I don't even know. Once I get the new gaskets and tear down the head I will find out though, but if it is not the head or base I am not sure what it could be since I have not taken anything off the crankcase so those gaskets should still be intact. Plus the gasket pieces I found looked like they were too new to be one of the original gaskets.
What can I use to make my next gasket set stick and seal real nice for a long time?
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Post by lain on Apr 13, 2015 15:34:19 GMT -5
The unused space at the edge of the variator is what makes me think I can get a bit more top end with a BBK and appropriate sliders. Regardless, I just can't leave my scooter stock, the modding bug gets me every time!You can't do anything else but acknowledge, that inside feeling of knowing that you can get more out of it by doing this and that is unavoidable, the price you gotta pay for being a thinkerer  It's not a bug, it's a disease that plagues mostly males and lays dormant until introduced to tools, or sometimes it takes powertool to cause a flare-up of tinkerosis. It's symptoms are constantly carrying tools, a multitool being one of a must have for the pocket, often has inspirations to make machines do more than the factories make them do, and a tick in the back of your mind that almost like OCD when you see something broken you feel you want to fix it even if it isn't yours. |
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Post by lain on Apr 13, 2015 15:15:16 GMT -5
I'm not sure if this is normal for the killswitch to act this way on it's way out but currently it will not turn off the engine. However, when I try to start it with the killswitch in engine off position it still acts normally and prevents it from starting. I have continuity throughout from the cdi to the switch and to the frame. It does the same thing with other CDI's so it's not the CDI. I am just stumped here.
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Post by lain on Apr 13, 2015 12:49:10 GMT -5
The starter and solenoid are devices powered by the battery on a separate circuit, they have nothing to do with the power to your lights and dash and controls when the engine isn't even on yet. The starter button just sends a signal to the switch in the solenoid to make it bridge the 2 big terminals on top to feed the power to the starter, it does not actually give it power, the power comes from the battery to the solenoid to the starter. Yes, you use the positive of the meter to "probe" wires to see which wires have voltage and how much they have. The negative of the meter is just ground so connect it to the frame or a grounding wire. I should be looking for 13.2 on the positive. On the negative that it has continuity to ground. And on the accessory 13.2 as well. You got it |
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Post by lain on Apr 13, 2015 12:27:26 GMT -5
wamgaming 3 terminals, 3 wires... only 9 possibilities. Just try all 9 possible ways to hook up the wire, if ALL of them don't work then it's something else. If the power coming out of the wires is 5v and the battery is giving 13.2, you are obviously losing power somewhere between the battery and the ignition switch. Possible bad wire, frayed, burnt, or bad connection or bad ground. Ok so thinking out loud here. If I try all the possibly combinations, and none work. How to I measure the voltage at the ignition. Sorry for the dumb question but do I put the positive on a lead and negative to ground? Positive and negative leads on the positive and negative wires at the switch? If it checks out at 13.2v at the switch, it must then be the starter solenoid? Correct? The starter and solenoid are devices powered by the battery on a separate circuit, they have nothing to do with the power to your lights and dash and controls. The starter button just sends a signal to the switch in the solenoid to make it bridge the 2 big terminals on top to feed the power to the starter, it does not actually give it power, the power comes from the battery to the solenoid to the starter. Yes, you use the positive of the meter to "probe" wires to see which wires have voltage and how much they have. The negative of the meter is just ground so connect it to the frame or a grounding wire. |
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Post by lain on Apr 13, 2015 11:55:43 GMT -5
It kind of sounds like when you retested you said you were touching the battery positive and the wires, it reads 13.2 because you were not reading the wires, you were reading the battery and using the wires as ground. Go back a step, use the meter and touch the red wire on the meter to the wires, and touch the black wire on the meter to the frame, and then check again the same way but with the black wire on the meter to the negative of the battery. Your starter solenoid and relay look like they could use some new wires, I suspect you may either need new wires or may have a wire making contact with another or the frame where it shouldn't. Try to read for stray power leak by putting the black wire of the meter on the negative of the battery, and the positive on the frame in various places, but I would start with near the area where the switch goes and along the area where the wires run. Unless you have exposed all wires and checked them all individually this could be a way to test for it. I once had a leak basically where one of my positive wires going to my ignition was frayed after someone tried to steal my ride. It gave weak battery symptoms and then stopped responding altogether till I traced all the wires and found the issue, but before I traced the wires I did the above test and found there was power coming from the frame, and there shouldn't be any power coming from the frame. We were telling him to check his ground wires that way. His ground, green, wire is obviously good. I don't know about the other two wires. I would suggest he run a continuity meter across the terminals of the ignition so he can see how they function. That might help him hook them up correctly. Obviously, two of the terminals should not have continuity until the switch is turned on. The terminal for the lights and the engine electric should read continuous with the key on. If two of the terminals are continuous with the switch in the off position, then I'd assume those were the two hot wires. If there is an accessory only terminal, it should be continuous when the key is in the accessory position, and the other terminal should not be. 3 terminals, 3 wires... only 9 possibilities. Just try all 9 possible ways to hook up the wire, if ALL of them don't work then it's something else. If the power coming out of the wires is 5v and the battery is giving 13.2, you are obviously losing power somewhere between the battery and the ignition switch. Possible bad wire, frayed, burnt, or bad connection or bad ground. |
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