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Post by lain on Apr 16, 2015 13:35:40 GMT -5
So i changed the jet to a 125 from a 115 and honestly I'm not really seeing any difference, still getting the same popping noise and my a/f screw doesn't seem to affect the idle until it's all the way tightened in then the engine cuts off Doing quarter turns at a time to lean doesn't seem to do anything. Not sure what I'm doing wrong but obviously something. Am I on too large of a jet or what's going on here? Do you have a cam or a phone? Can you record for us to see/hear? |
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Post by lain on Apr 16, 2015 13:14:49 GMT -5
Are you sure you got the right pipe? They sell different shaped pipes.
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Post by lain on Apr 16, 2015 12:32:15 GMT -5
I check the belts by taking the CVT cover off then I gently squeeze the belt between the variator and clutch to see how much slack there is in the belt, if there is an inch or more of slack I replace it. A new belt will have almost no slack, so I figure an inch of slack makes it a spare belt to me haha.
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Post by lain on Apr 16, 2015 10:46:02 GMT -5
OK so recently my belt broke on my scooter. Before it would go all the way up to 1200 rpm. Now after putting a gates power link belt on I can't get it past 7500 rpm and it goes very slow. I removed the variator and the clutch to put the new belt on. The new belt is alot thicker that the old belt. I'm really confused and pretty bummed if anybody. would help it would be greatly appreciated. You shouldn't be pushing it past 7500 anyways. What is happening is you are simply seeing the contrast between a brand new belt and a worn out belt. Worn out belts are thinner because the use of them grinds down the sides slowly, that's why drive belts have hardened walls. A thinner belt can climb higher and go lower in the variator and clutch, but will break as you already know. When you first get a new belt it needs to be broken in, give it a week and you should be speedin around again. |
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Post by lain on Apr 16, 2015 10:32:29 GMT -5
urbanmadness I have a fan of feelers, not the step-up ones you have. I have all the ones I use bent at the end to get them in at funny angles. Too loud would mean loose valves right? geh3333 There is no visible leak, just the oil level dropping every week, though since I put my valve drain hose all the way up at the top back end of my frame the oil seems to be staying mostly, but still seems to be getting dirty fast. I have heard of other people who get BBK's online with the head already assembled like I did found they needed the valves fixed or something, not sure something about taking them out and putting them back in because oil was getting to the combustion chamber from the valve area. I am starting to think this is my issue. How do I fix it? I need a special tool to disassemble the valves from the head?
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 20:00:56 GMT -5
On a sidenote I've only ridden about 24 miles with the new exhaust and the head pipe i think it's called is turning goldish is this normal? Sorry I'm new to all this Not sure, I just mess with OEM muffler/exhausts. I don't think those fancy high performance exhaust pipes are supposed to discolor, but I have no experience in the matter. I hope someone who has one will chime in. |
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fuel pump
by: lain - Apr 15, 2015 19:58:24 GMT -5
Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 19:58:24 GMT -5
It would work if you had a bung on the tank (like a motorcycle).... Most of these scoots don't. You need a stand alone petcock. Just a ball valve with hose barbs for the inflow and outflow. then just plug it in, and cap off the vacuum line. You'll be golden. It will flow more then enough fuel. What is a bung? Sounds dirty. |
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 19:56:28 GMT -5
Seems to run the same but my starting issues went away! Sweet. I do not feel comfortable with the clicking noise though, I will try 0.005 and 0.006 tomorrow.
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 16:50:51 GMT -5
Seems to idle fine and start fine with gaps at 0.006 and 0.007. Will see how it does on the road soon.
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 12:20:49 GMT -5
When I got my first scoot it was blowing oil all over the engine bay. I adjusted the timing and put the valve cover back on with sealant. It did fine for about a day and then leaked again. I put a new valve cover gasket on and sealant, and it started leaking at the base gasket. I put a new base gasket on and it started leaking out of the valve cover again. Finally, I loosened up the exhaust valve from .004 or .005 to about .006-.007. It clicked some but the leak stopped. I guess my valve was too tight and was opening too soon or staying open too long and pressurizing the case. Well .006 and .007 seem kind of excessive to me, but what's the worst that can come from slightly large gaps? wearing down the tappets? I have spares so I'll be fine I'll check this out today. |
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 12:12:19 GMT -5
When i removed the stock airbox there was a small line running back to it but obviously the uni doesn't have that what do i do with this spare line just remove it? Depending on what kind of carb you have you can remove all the hoses and canisters (EGR stuff) and just have the fuel line to the carb and the vacuum line from the intake to the fuel petcock. That's what I have right now, and soon will no longer have the vacuum line at all because I am getting a manual fuel petcock. |
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 11:44:29 GMT -5
Mine was cut off and welded shut by the previous owner. It eventually became unplugged so now I use a "muffler repair kit" which is basically like some sort of acrylic glass or something. I've been using it for months and months without issue to plug the hole. They are only supposedly useful for a month, but they are designed for cars, so our tiny scoots don't really wear it down like a car muffler would.
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 11:14:30 GMT -5
Well i did use the new cdi with the old exhaust and everything was fine but add for the carb/exhaust/uni i figured they all went together, no? They do not all go together. They work together yes, but each piece has different functions, and each piece can influence the way the other parts work. The carb controls the ratio of air to fuel that is being delivered to the combustion chamber through the intake manifold. The air filter you have now allows a LOT more air than the air boxes do, so that changes how much air is being delivered to the carb by a lot. The exhaust controls emissions to some degree, muffles sound, and provides pressure to the engine on the exhaust stroke, and a lot of exhausts have slightly different designs which give you different results from a stock exhaust. Everything is separate, but working together. |
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 10:26:32 GMT -5
Honestly I think murkyapricot installed too many parts at once. I think you should have installed them piece by piece, seeing how it does after each piece until you have everything installed so you can tell which parts may or may not be causing the issue. |
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Post by lain on Apr 15, 2015 9:53:30 GMT -5
Put it on the nose of the front fairing like a boat? Sail the asphalt oceans in style and if anyone gives you trouble load up ur cannons and brace for impact!
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