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Post by lain on Aug 8, 2015 16:24:12 GMT -5
So just to update; I installed the new oil seal today and the problem is gone.
Getting the old seal out was very tricky, had to use a paper clip, steak knife, and tweezers. I used the knife to cut the seal a bit when it was stuck all the way in to make an entry for the paper clip. I used the tweezers to pull it out a little bit, was very hard because they kept bending out and slipping. Then curled the paper clip and hooked the seal and pulled out. The paper clip bent out a couple dozen times, but every pull got the seal out a little more each time. When it was halfway out I could no longer get the paper clip in so I greased up the knife and slid it between the crank rod and the seal and pushed it against the case and popped it out. I did damage the case around the outer part of where the seal goes, but apparently not enough to make a difference as it was only on the outside lip of it.
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Post by lain on Aug 8, 2015 0:48:22 GMT -5
Same? Well, mostly. The smaller valves on the 50cc head will decrease performance though. You are going to need a new head gasket if you do that so might as well order a new head or try to get a replacement if the head came preassembled with valves, might be a defect.
Are you sure the new cam was installed while at TDC? Like did you install the cam while the flywheel was at the timing mark and did you make sure it didn't move? Sometimes it can move slightly without noticing and when you assemble it again it can be very slightly off and cause valves to stay open or open at wrong times. Have you tried with the old stock cam, maybe the performance cam doesn't have good timing for your engine, I've heard mixed results about those.
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Post by lain on Aug 7, 2015 16:52:35 GMT -5
People who see you using the bicycle lane (legal in MA) that drive into it to block you during traffic, then pretend not to hear the annoying pitched horn blaring at them as they try to pretend they didn't just do that... -_-
And when you don't have a lane to escape the traffic sometimes a person either being a dck or just not knowing how far they are pushing your scooter forward (usually a truck or other large hooded vehicles) as they attempt to gain a couple inches closer to the red light... -_-
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Post by lain on Aug 7, 2015 16:28:50 GMT -5
Ok sounds like my little rc car air filter should work then. It's essentially a micro uni filter. About a inch and a half tall and about as big around as a quarter. I did not think to torque the bolts so you may have actually pinned it. I had not thought about it but what you say makes sense. I'll do that tonight first thing. I'll have to look those numbers up. My cdi and coil are new. Came with the kit. I believe the 4 nuts that hold the rockers on the cam should be at 14 ft/pounds and the 2 on the side should be at 8 ft/pounds which is essentially hand tight. Yeah it sounds rediculously low torqued but that's how they are. |
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Post by lain on Aug 7, 2015 14:01:40 GMT -5
Oh and what did you do with the cam ventilation hose? Mine hose to the air box. Dose it need the air pulled in or is it fine being zipped to the frame? I was thinking if that's the case I'd put a small air filter on it form a old gas rc car I had. I actually added an extra crankcase vent by adding a vent to the dipstick port as well (due to too much crankcase pressure), and both are connected to an oil catch can that looks like a small muffler sort of and pointed behind the back wheel. You can essentially leave it connected to the valve cover but unplugged from anything else, but face the end of the hose towards the rear because if it faces forward dust can get pushed in by passing air. You can also put a small gas filter like from lawn mowers on it, in fact a lot of lawn mower parts work with scooters, I've even used a lawn mower solenoid in a pinch.  As far as the needle, yes I am talking about the one in the large diaphragm in the carburetor. If you unscrew the top 2 screws from the cover looking thing ontop of the carb you can access the diaphram and needle. The needle if adjustable should have a C clip on it you can pull off/put on with pliers (be very careful not to lose it, it's very easy for it to fly off!!!), and it should have 5 slots on the top of the needle for the clip to go on. Moving the clip adjusts when the gas is introduced from the main jet, or in other words tunes the middle end of the carb to be richer or leaner. Moving the clip up makes the needle drop down which closes the main jet sooner/opens later, which essentially leans the middle end. Moving the clip down will raise the needle up in the diaphragm and allow gas from the main jet to be introduced sooner/in effect longer which essentially richens the middle end. What you want is for there to be no hesitation from idle all the way up to top revs. You may find there is no hesitation but after moving the needle may find snapier response and faster ability to reach the top end. If it pops or hesitates move back to the last clip space you had good results on. When you installed the BBK, did you torque the bolts to the right amounts? If they are too tight it may make starting hard, like it will turn really slow until it starts. It will also make all the pieces too tight when it warms up, which could also cause stalling. How new is your ignition coil and CDI? There are soooo many things that can cause stalling it is rediculous, one of the hardest things to resolve. |
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Post by lain on Aug 7, 2015 10:33:25 GMT -5
I set the valves to .005 while cold. And I've adjusted the idle but it didn't seem to die at idle, its dieing out while riding. Maybe to little air flow? I'm using stock filter bix but have a cone like filter that came with the kit that I haven't installed yet Maybe not enough air flow, I was not able to use anything higher than #  with the air box, but with the foam filter like the uni filter I have I can go up to 100 and still with stock muffler/exhaust. Could also simply be tuned by moving the needle to a leaner position. It's not always the same from scooter to scooter, I definately had to tune my needle position after installing the bbk though. I also had to shape the accelerator pump bracket thing that gets pushed by the throttle butterfly, you know that piece of metal the throttle slides on that pushes that diaphragm on the bottom of the carb? That piece of metal controls the diaphram ont he bottom of the carb that essentially pumps tiny bursts of gas when you pull the throttle to allow more gas for the sudden change in air in the venturi. You can shape it to pump later or earlier in the throttle range or you can pull it back and eliminate it to provide a leaner transition in throttle change. .005 may be too big, but wouldnt cause you to stall out, I set mine to .003, at .005 I could hear clatter from the valve tappets while running. |
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Post by lain on Aug 7, 2015 9:08:52 GMT -5
Did you adjust the valve gaps and idle mix screw? It sounds like it could be a mix problem, maybe too rich. I would mess with needle position and idle mix screw. I actually have a 100cc bbk with scored cylinder and piston from a ring coming out before, it has a tendency to spin the rings after install because the hone did not remove the scratches, but it runs just as well as a new bbk with perfect installation just needs oil every few weeks.
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Post by lain on Aug 7, 2015 0:30:21 GMT -5
BA20D bulbs are what you need
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Post by lain on Aug 6, 2015 20:20:35 GMT -5
So when you turn the wheel it doesn't make abnormal sounds, and I'm guessing you are trying to diagnose things based on what you think is correct or not. I think there is actually no problem here, I have the same thing happen on all the scooters I have, and I've seen the inside of every part of all of them and there is no issues, it's just the sound of the gears coming to a stop. Did you think it would make no sound at all? I thought so too, but upon close investigation it's just because the gears are not flush, there is always some sort of tiny clearance, and the weight of the tire changes the sound to a thud but it really is a lighter sound, ever tried turning it with the wheel off? It should sound lighter it it's just the gears.
I may be misjudging the symptom though, please take a video.
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Post by lain on Aug 6, 2015 19:28:10 GMT -5
What is the point of the magnet in this kit that fits where the drain is? To catch metal shavings? Isn't that just a workaround to solving a more serious issue, or is there some sort of other benefit I am not understanding?
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Post by lain on Aug 5, 2015 16:52:12 GMT -5
Have you checked the wires? I had the same issue once, turned out my ground wires were loose and sort of fried. Replaced them and they did not fluctuate much, even at idle the lights were as bright as driving.
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Post by lain on Aug 1, 2015 21:29:52 GMT -5
FYI- fuses do not alwats blow when hooking up in reverse, but other components may (diodes, R/R, etc) I use the fast acting fuses, they blow very easily if something is wrong, or at the least the filament will warp. |
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Post by lain on Jul 31, 2015 12:13:20 GMT -5
So I think I found the problem (but I don't understand it.) My fuel tank has two connections -- the bottom one goes to the petcock and I assume is the supply. The top one also goes to the petcock and I don't understand it's purpose. If I overfill the tank, this top connection gets fuel in it and the scooter won't run correctly. If I remove this line from the breather (or vent or whatever the top connection on the tank is) then the scooter races/revs like crazy. Is this the connection you guys say I can remove and cap? As I mentioned above yes you can remove the line from the breather, top nipple hole, vent hole, whatever you choose to call it. The best thing to do is keep the hose on the vent hole on the tank but on the other end of the hose you attach a filter and ziptie it up on the frame above the tank but not pointing upwards, you don't wan't dripping rain to get in it. Take pics of the connections you are talking about, it sounds like somethings not connected properly. |
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Post by lain on Jul 29, 2015 21:41:06 GMT -5
I was thinking about checking the variator but i didnt want to disturb anything if i didnt have to. the last time i looked in there when i changed the belt the rollers were a little worn that wasnt too long ago ill check again though. Maybe I need heavier or newer weights? Check to see how worn they are now, I check mine every couple months. If there are any flat spots replace the set, if you don't they can make everything act funny. How easily can you separate the ramps on the clutch with your hand when it if off the scooter? If it is very easily opened then it has worn out springs. |
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Post by lain on Jul 29, 2015 21:20:38 GMT -5
All the clutches I've seen idling ride near the top of the ramps. It doesn't look like it's functioning properly, usually at idle the belt is low in the variator ramps and high in the clutch ramps. But your variator also looks funny, the belt is not low in it... Hmm... Check the weights? Does it rattle?
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with the air box, but with the foam filter like the uni filter I have I can go up to 100 and still with stock muffler/exhaust. Could also simply be tuned by moving the needle to a leaner position. 
