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Post by lain on Jul 29, 2015 20:18:32 GMT -5
How do I remove this oil seal?  |
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Post by lain on Jul 29, 2015 14:24:17 GMT -5
So I rebuilt it, made my own base gasket with felpro gasket materials, seems very similar to the silver stuff but stronger. I used a new head gasket of course. Honed he cylinder, used new rings, all lined up correctly on install... Correct torque wih torque wrench I borrowed. New Studs... Noticed while installing the base gasket the bottom under the cylinder kept bending out a little bit, maybe the case is warped? All works good but now it idles high then evens out and when decelerating i hear slight grumbling. Seems there is an air leak or something now...... I am honestly done with this engine, over 40k miles it needs to be retired... I am going to focus on seeing if my spare engine with the locked piston will have enough good parts to use for a new BBK project... AT 40k miles think you got your $$$ worth? Well seeing as I used this scooter engine to make about $17K total last summer as a delivery scooter driver I think so lol. I just hate to see it go ya know? |
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Post by lain on Jul 29, 2015 14:00:47 GMT -5
So I rebuilt it, made my own base gasket with felpro gasket materials, seems very similar to the silver stuff but stronger. I used a new head gasket of course. Honed he cylinder, used new rings, all lined up correctly on install... Correct torque wih torque wrench I borrowed. New Studs... Noticed while installing the base gasket the bottom under the cylinder kept bending out a little bit, maybe the case is warped?
All works good but now it idles high then evens out and when decelerating i hear slight grumbling. Seems there is an air leak or something now......
I am honestly done with this engine, over 40k miles it needs to be retired... I am going to focus on seeing if my spare engine with the locked piston will have enough good parts to use for a new BBK project...
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2015 22:35:19 GMT -5
That's a very interesting post, thanks man I had no idea. Next I will try my own variator and ramp, but not until I replace the oil seal. It is pushed in too far, could I simply pull it back into place or should I get the replacement? If it is a new oil seal..you may get by repositioning it..but seals a year or so old..tend be brittle...and are prone to leaks if tampered with.. Hmm... May just replace it then. How do I remove it though? It has been pushed in all the way, a lisle seal remover tool cant really get in there, maybe a paper clip held by pliers? |
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2015 20:33:59 GMT -5
That's a very interesting post, thanks man I had no idea. Next I will try my own variator and ramp, but not until I replace the oil seal. It is pushed in too far, could I simply pull it back into place or should I get the replacement?
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2015 14:27:59 GMT -5
I think I MAY have found the issue, but not entirely sure. The oil seal on the variator side was halfway out and leaking a small amount of oil, which accumulated in the CVT, and ontop of that it looks like there is no oil getting to the topend as well.
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2015 12:46:11 GMT -5
Yeah I've seen a lot of people overfill and then cannot run well or they get fuel flowing out of the evap canister. I personally disconnect the vent line from the canister and just ziptie it high up above the tank if bottom mounted, or just up and to the rear if top mounted. You shouldn't fill the gas to the cap hole, a little under is where the vent opening on the tank is so if you fill it above the vent hole it will not work right unless the vent has a good opening for air to come in.
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2015 12:42:35 GMT -5
Do you have a multimeter? Make sure the button is getting voltage when the key is turned to on, if it is try crossing the button wires to simulate pressing the button. Does the dash read the gas level and such when the key is on? Is the thin wire leading from the solenoid securely connected to the connector? Are any of the starter button wires loose or the killswitch wires loose? I appreciate the help, but I think you are on the wrong wavelength here. Wiring is all new, its probably Ok, it's really probably some kind of safety switch that is keeping the button from working. Well I'm not worried about the wiring, I'm giving you places to look to start diagnosing the cause of the problem. If there is no power to the starter button then you check the key switch, if there is no power going to or coming out of the keyswitch you check the fuse and battery wires. You can't really wire it wrong if the new harnes came with connectors, all the running pieces have connectors that do not fit in other spots besides things like lights and the solenoid switch activating wire. |
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2015 9:46:00 GMT -5
Do you have a multimeter? Make sure the button is getting voltage when the key is turned to on, if it is try crossing the button wires to simulate pressing the button. Does the dash read the gas level and such when the key is on? Is the thin wire leading from the solenoid securely connected to the connector? Are any of the starter button wires loose or the killswitch wires loose?
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2015 9:23:37 GMT -5
I was told they only changed the variator weights to 7g in the cvt Bingo! There is your issue.. "I was told they only changed the variator weights to 7g in the cvt" So the stock torque spring 'shifts' too soon because they are weak..and the 7 gram weights cause it to 'shift' too quickly into a higher ratio.. This puts a load on the engine..hence poor performance up hills..and slow take take off. Here is my setup and it works well. JUST a BBK and weights will not improve performance..the whole drive train system needs to be balanced to handle the extra power. here is what I use below.. 2014 TaoTao Thunder 80cc BBK 2k clutch springs 1.5k contra spring 7gram KOSO sliders with KOSO variator Performance exhaust 50-55mph(No not Kph) GPS on a level surface with my skinny butt on it  I swapped the clutch, put in mine which has 1.5k springs and new clutch pads, same outcome. The problem is it is NOT getting to high RPMs until going downhill, and ONLY when going downhill. I also tried switching the weights to 5g and to 8g, still the same issue. It is like it is stuck at low RPMs. I do not have a tach for the scooter otherwise I would give you the numbers. When revving from a stop it slowly climbs up in speed even if I try to give it full throttle. The carb main jet was #  , I decided to try fiddling with the carb too so I put i my own #  , it seemed to go slightly faster in the low end but not by much. The needle in the carb is a standard non adjustable needle. I tried installing an adjustable needle but all of the notches 1 to 5 all seemed bad so I put the nonadjustable needle back in. I adjusted the valves to 0.003. I checked and added ground wires. I replaced the spark plug, coil, cdi... Been all over this scooter except inside the engine beyond the valves.... Everything I do only makes small almost unnoticeable changes, it's still about the same as when I started. It goes about 20 on flats, 10 uphill, and 45 downhill and will not hold speed above 20 on flats even when going down a very long downhill first.. |
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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2015 23:13:14 GMT -5
7g for a 50cc sounds very light. I thought 9g was the standard, but my experience with 50cc scooters is limited. Either way, just another suggested area to inspect. I use 6.5g weights on my 50mm bbk scooter and coast at 40, but on this scoot with 47mm bbk and 7g weights it coasts at 20 if youd call it coasting, its more like stuck at low RPMs, once it hits high RPMs you can hear the difference it is also much faster but it does not get to high RPMs unless going downhill. It is a 139qmb motor, it should definitely be faster, even a 50cc is faster than this 47mm (72cc) kit at least until going downhill, then it just zooms past. Even if the downhill is only very slightly. It seems it needs help to reach higher RPMs and cannot hold high RPMs once on a flat or uphill. |
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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2015 22:47:40 GMT -5
Have you checked the clutch? Maybe some aftermarket "performance" parts were installed. I was told they only changed the variator weights to 7g in the cvt |
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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2015 21:46:11 GMT -5
I just got a scooter from my friend who says his cousin installed a 47mm BBK and now it's slower than when it was a stock 50cc. Everything around the engine is correctly installed; # main jet in CVK carb, idles and tuned up perfectly, foam air filter installed, stock exhaust, and no oil leaks or hard starting and has enough compression to push my thumb off the spark plug hole, and the vales are both at 0.003. Checked for leaks by spraying wd40 all over everything while running, all good. It tops out at about 50, but it stays in the low end on flats and uphill and does not go faster than 20 until going downhill. Seems like there might be blowby since I feel air coming out of the vent on the valve cover, but no sure, maybe the guy installed the rings incorrectly? |
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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2015 19:57:55 GMT -5
lain The puller I linked you to from harbor freight, I used that puller with longer bolts and fender washers. Thread the longer bolts into the screw hole for the fan. Then work the center bolt into the crank and it pops off. The 3 jaw puller is very stress full on the flywheel. If it breaks the hub from the flywheel may give you big problems getting it off.   Looks pretty handy. I tried the claw type puller.. darn arms on the puller bent outwards so now it is useless, made 0 progress taking the flywheel off but thankfully didn't damage the scooter, going to try your puller method next. Thanks. What exactly is holding the flywheel on so tightly? Magnetic force? I can't understand how a flywheel that has not nuts holding it down totals a brand new claw puller made of carbon steel. The flywheel must have been a problem for the threaded puller when the previous owner had it as well since the inside threads for the puller located on the flywheel were stripped before I even tried. |
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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2015 17:14:54 GMT -5
Gee Lain you seem to have it for me, I'll get a picture of the puller using the ban bolt holes. While you get the picture of the cvt sensor. John The thing is I believe you believe there is no such thing, but I wonder what you think the 6th pin on CDI's are for if not for the pickup, it is the wire that goes to the pickup in the CVT case. A lot of videos say to cut the wire at the CDI but do not explain what it goes to. I do not have a stock dealer case with a pickup anymore since I removed the pickup and rigged it to be used as a flywheel pickup since it is the same exact pickup coil. All I can show you is my old stock case that has the screw holes where I removed the pickup. Have you ever noticed how stock clutch bells have a nub on it like the flywheel? I do not have it out for you, just find it annoying you do not read fully, and as a result post misleading information very often. As a respected member and a parts vendor you should read fully, people count on you for advise it seems, and they do not know better to understand you giving them advise about the wrong thing sometimes, no bad advise just you don't read then post advise about other things that may lead less informed members off the track of fixing the problem.  |
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, I decided to try fiddling with the carb too so I put i my own #
, it seemed to go slightly faster in the low end but not by much. The needle in the carb is a standard non adjustable needle. I tried installing an adjustable needle but all of the notches 1 to 5 all seemed bad so I put the nonadjustable needle back in. 
