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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2015 16:34:43 GMT -5
Really wish people read instead of skimming. Thanks but as I said I have flywheel pullers but the flywheel was stripped by previous owner. Gonna try a claw puller tool. so the threads in the center are striped and the threads for the fan are striped too, how dooes the fan stay on? Have you ever removed a flywheel before? The threads the puller goes in are not where the fan screws in. Lately you have been posting a lot of nonsense. The other day you didnt know the CVT cases had pickup coils in them in a lot of models, swearing that you've never seen them but here in my area they are on 100% of all dealer sold scooters. Now we are talking about flywheels and you just seem to be confused like you've never done it before. Anyways cyborg thanks for the advise, I found a claw puller for gears at the store, gonna try it out, seems like the only hard part will be getting the ledges of the puller under the bell like you said. Will let you know how it works out. |
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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2015 13:52:35 GMT -5
Really wish people read instead of skimming. Thanks but as I said I have flywheel pullers but the flywheel was stripped by previous owner. Gonna try a claw puller tool.
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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2015 10:08:31 GMT -5
a larger three claw puller that pulls from the rim and a central pin that pushes on the crank tip,,,but restoring the threads is the real chore here,,you may be able to recut the threads and go down a half size on the nut,,just a thought I have a spare flywheel. Can you link me to what youre talking about? Would this work? www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5690-6-Inch-3-Jaw-Puller/dp/B000NPT68Y |
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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2015 7:59:51 GMT -5
So I have a defective oil pump in my 50cc, but while I was tearing down I discovered the previous owner stripped the flywheel threads completely off. The threads are just barely there, and when I try to use my flywheel pullere it just pops out because the threads wont hold anything because they are so bad... How can I remove this flywheel without a puller?
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Post by lain on Jul 25, 2015 14:03:41 GMT -5
Well I have new studs and an oil catch/vent otw now too. hopefully all the new parts will be the final touch I need.
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Post by lain on Jul 25, 2015 12:21:12 GMT -5
It's possible I overtorqued it, I do not have a torque wrench. I would tighten the nuts on the cam holder thing to hand tight then take my socket wrench and turn them another half circle and stop there. Do you think that would be too much? Well glad your honest, much easier to help you. I was told once if you have a calibrated elbow you don't need a torque wrench, all others get one. As much as you wrench on these get one. Very easy to over torque this gem especially with just four Studs and Junk to boot. Pick up a cheap Beam type at Harbor Freight or Pawn shops have tons. Be careful of the Clicker ratchet type as some need to be calibrated very so often, and stored un-loaded. We have in the South (Carolina's) every weekend red neck flea market's with Tons of New and used tools. Say it was overtorqued, what do I look for when I remove the old studs? If they were should I add some sort of sealant/locker or should I tap the holes and put helicoils in? Lying doesn't help, of course I'm going to be honest, this is my baby afterall. Rebuilt 2 times after friend crashed it a couple times. It coasts at 40 and doesn't fear hills haha |
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Post by lain on Jul 25, 2015 8:53:49 GMT -5
I'm ordering new studs soon, do you know if I can remove the old ones with a vice grip? Is there any danger of damaging the case threads? Should I use red loctite on install? Ya know, thinking here I believe you said you had it apart bout four times with this problem alone? Wonder if you haven't Drawn up the Metal (top of the cases) around those Studs? It wouldn't take much. Ive seen this happen more than once. Pay very close attention to that area (Around the Studs). I'm fortunate to have some machinist straight edges of various lengths to check deck flatness. It's possible I overtorqued it, I do not have a torque wrench. I would tighten the nuts on the cam holder thing to hand tight then take my socket wrench and turn them another half circle and stop there. Do you think that would be too much? |
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Post by lain on Jul 24, 2015 21:41:09 GMT -5
You Must Replace The Cylinder Studs. You can Only Stretch that Junk a Couple Times (maybe). Pret Much Once. There is a Reason They Sell Replacements. I'm ordering new studs soon, do you know if I can remove the old ones with a vice grip? Is there any danger of damaging the case threads? Should I use red loctite on install? |
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Post by lain on Jul 23, 2015 19:22:13 GMT -5
You Must Replace The Cylinder Studs. You can Only Stretch that Junk a Couple Times (maybe). Pret Much Once. There is a Reason They Sell Replacements. Damn I didn't realize. I have used them everytime I've opened it. Anything else I should think about? |
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Post by lain on Jul 23, 2015 15:45:35 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Jul 23, 2015 15:32:10 GMT -5
It's possible either your case or cylinder needs to be milled flat. Do not use anything but a dry base gasket, using any sealant you risk covering an oil path when tightening down which could lead to forced seepage. I do not know what that means. Like the case and jug aren't flat enough? I can check when I tear down further, but if the problem is pressure could I solve it by drilling a hole above the crankshaft behind where the jug slides in and install some sort of nipple valve thing to attach a hose to so I can install a one way valve or something? |
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Post by lain on Jul 23, 2015 12:33:08 GMT -5
Yeah, had the same problem. Didn't want to pull the jug (new rings, yet another break-in period) so I JB Welded where the jug meets the crankcase. If ever have to remove things of course will have to Dremel thru the JB Weld, but that's OK. Oil leak stopped. ps: I thought by now you would have pulled that 49cc rubber band contraption and put in a real motor. I actually have a few motors from bikes and a 150cc motor, the only thing stopping me is I don't want to weld. But anyways I love this scooter, it's my fave. I want to keep it running forever. I have JB Weld, but I am unsure that would help in this case. It seems when running the oil is coming out of the corner where the oil is supposed to travel up to the valves. Maybe the gasket has blown to in front of the passageway and this is why it seems to flow out when running but stops when the engine stops. I had put gasket sealant on the gasket last time too and it had the same outcome and without... It seem the crankcase is building pressure and pushing the gasket out. The vent on the valve cover doesn't seem to help with the pressure I guess. I know the rings were installed properly and everything... There is no blowby, but the crankcase seems to build pressure. What can I do? I will be getting new gaskets, new rings and will hone the cylinder again, but how do I prevent this from happening once again??? |
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Post by lain on Jul 23, 2015 11:45:27 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Jul 23, 2015 7:16:53 GMT -5
I recently had the same issue, for me it turned out the pickup wire from the stator to cdi had become so loose they were only touching by 1 strand of wire, replaced the wire ends with spade terminals and works great now.
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Post by lain on Jul 23, 2015 7:14:06 GMT -5
Yes if you neglect to put parts back there will be problems. That protects your chain. These engines have only a couple handfuls of parts, minimalistic already so forgetting even 1 piece isn't good.
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