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Post by lain on Jul 23, 2015 6:43:29 GMT -5
See this is the issue I'm having, there doesnt seem to be any guide on doing it on a 50cc gy6. There is no starter clutch in the 50cc. The seal is different, on the 50cc it seems to be a plastic seal not rubber. I can find guide on how to replace the seal on the other side all day long but finding one for the flywheel side for a 50cc is like really annoying I can't find any...
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Post by lain on Jul 22, 2015 21:20:20 GMT -5
You seem to know a bit about this... How do I go about doing a replacement? I think you linked the wrong vid. I am talking about behind the flywheel/stator. |
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Post by lain on Jul 22, 2015 20:52:06 GMT -5
"Can I take one of those off an identical engine to use for a while until I get a new one?" No, you can't Lain! That would be silly, the VERY low cost of seals and the significant amount of work making it crazy to use a used seal. You seem to know a bit about this... How do I go about doing a replacement? |
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Post by lain on Jul 22, 2015 20:23:03 GMT -5
I have a major oil leak, I'm thinking it's the seal or whatever behind the flywheel. The oil leaks at a high rate when the engine is on from the flywheel area, haven't removed the flywheel to check behind it yet but I can clearly see a stream of oil when the engine is on coming from behind the flywheel, but it stops leaking when the engine is off...
I can't seem to find a guide or instructions to replace the seal behind the flywheel, there is a seal right? I remember a couple months ago when I had it open to replace the oil pump there was a brown plastic thing that looked sort of like a seal. Is that the seal? Can I take one of those off an identical engine to use for a while until I get a new one?
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Post by lain on Jul 22, 2015 5:47:52 GMT -5
He said he guessed, for all he knows they could be 0.007 or 0.01 and they could be both set different like 0.007 and 0.002, sure no ticking but eventually it will show when his tappets melt... plus starting and idling issues will arise later and wonder why....
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Post by lain on Jul 21, 2015 21:08:06 GMT -5
Thats too much... If you don't like having to mess with it all the time then just do it according to spec... It should be set using the right tools, don't guess unless you like pushing expensive 2 wheel paper weights home.... I feel bad for your scoot... it's getting abused one owner after another.... |
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Post by lain on Jul 21, 2015 0:33:02 GMT -5
You put copper rtv on a diaphram in your carb!? You shouldn't use any kind of gasket maker or anything like that on the carb, take the carb out and clean it out fully before you install the new diaphragm. Belts do not make you suddenly lose 15mph, especially when the scooter is still new. Try cleaning out the carb and then tune the a/f mix screw. I tuned my carb first in 50 degree weather, and had the same issue the past few days where it has been  +, I tuned my carb now I'm back to speeding around, not guaranteed to be the solution but it sounds like the problem may be related to your carb. Hot weather can be a cause for issues if not tuned for it. The accelerator pump only effects the scooter when you add throttle or take throttle, and only for a very brief moment like not even a second so I would not expect it to take your topend down it has no effect on it really, you can move that metal bar above the butterfly on the carb to adjust when and how much the accelerator pump pumps, you can even move it so it doesn't touch at all taking it out of the equation. |
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Post by lain on Jul 19, 2015 8:00:24 GMT -5
No one said anything about cutting engine ground wires, read before you quote. There Are Two Wires That Attach To The engine one is the stator harness and the other is the engine and there can be more than one engine ground. If you know of others please show us/me. John The answer is literally right in front of you, please read what you quoted so you will understand... I highly doubt you forgot there is also a wire that goes to the transmission, maybe you did, I don't know. That's why I said read before you quote, because you misread what I said. It's really not that serious, but when you do that you make people get confused and can lead someone away from useful information. |
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Post by lain on Jul 19, 2015 7:42:17 GMT -5
Try cutting the wire that goes to the transmission case, it will remove the rev limiter on stock CDIs. That's how a lot of 50cc 4 strokes are though, but you could try some different variator weights to tune the transmission as well. Do Not Cut The Engine Ground wire, You Will Burn Your Stator Ground The First Time You Hit The Electric start. I would remove the clutch and overhaul it. Be sure the variator is not binding either. If you want to change the timing or Rev limiter, go with a different cdi and coil. John No one said anything about cutting engine ground wires, read before you quote. |
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Post by lain on Jul 19, 2015 7:10:18 GMT -5
I agree with geh, check the valves. It's really not hard and barely getting into the engine. It's 4 bolts holding the valve cover on, and then you are at the valves. Unlike a scooter, your trike has 3 wheels and has more of a body and more weight to carry. I would expect something like that to have the valves tighten up faster than scooters. I am getting NO sense that it wants to fire. Cranks over great, but isn't firing at all. Could this still be valves? It seems like it would give a little fire every once in a while if it was a valve issue? The valves effect timing by a lot. If they are not right, the timing will be bad, and it will be sparking at the wrong times. Needless to say those little valves are very important. If you think about it if you change the valve gaps and get it wrong even by 0.001 of an inch it will run poorly or not at all, so an engine that's done a lot of hard work and has probably tightened up will most likely have the same issue. Plus you've already messed with everything else except the valves... so... through process of elimination, it must be the valves. Don't doubt what you cannot see. I've seen scooters tighten up the valves on thier own after only a few hundred miles, you have over a thousand on a big machine pushed around by a small scooter engine lol. |
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Post by lain on Jul 18, 2015 22:34:14 GMT -5
I agree with geh, check the valves. It's really not hard and barely getting into the engine. It's 4 bolts holding the valve cover on, and then you are at the valves.
Unlike a scooter, your trike has 3 wheels and has more of a body and more weight to carry. I would expect something like that to have the valves tighten up faster than scooters.
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Post by lain on Jul 18, 2015 18:18:52 GMT -5
Try cutting the wire that goes to the transmission case, it will remove the rev limiter on stock CDIs. That's how a lot of 50cc 4 strokes are though, but you could try some different variator weights to tune the transmission as well.
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Post by lain on Jul 18, 2015 8:33:01 GMT -5
I would check the belt. It sat for 3 years, might be due to previous owner storing it when something went wrong, in this case it sounds like a transmission issue. Check the variator as well.
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Post by lain on Jul 12, 2015 17:45:36 GMT -5
Looks like air vent outlet for CVT to air filter.
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Post by lain on Jul 12, 2015 13:14:40 GMT -5
Found out it was completely unrelated to the lights like I originally thought. Rider error.... He had the automatic lock on...
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+, I tuned my carb now I'm back to speeding around, not guaranteed to be the solution but it sounds like the problem may be related to your carb. Hot weather can be a cause for issues if not tuned for it. 