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Post by lain on Jul 12, 2015 9:18:43 GMT -5
Sounds like the light are pulling too much power form the system. Maybe a faulty strip or just a touch system. I would disconnect the light and see if the problem still exists. If the problem goes away I would check the light and make sure they are working properly. I would use a relay instead of splicing directly to the brake system with the lights. The weird thing is I have the same alarm on my scooter, and 10 LED strips and no problems. I have 2 long strips hooked up to my brake wires, a strip hooked up additionally to each blinker in the back, and 6 hooked up to a switch that is hooked up to the ignition switch. His strips are 1/3 the size my strips are. Gonna check to see if the problem goes away when disconnecting the lights. If the problem goes away is there any easy way without a relay to hook them up? They seem to work fine it's just the alarm goes off whenever he uses the brakes when the engine is on now. |
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Post by lain on Jul 12, 2015 7:21:51 GMT -5
I just setup 4 led light strips on my friends scoot. He wanted them hooked up so whenever he brakes the extra led light strips turn on as well, and only when the brake is being pulled. I tied the 4 light strips together and wired them to the positive wire for the brake (green and yellow) and the ground (green) wires.
Now whenever the scooter is running and he pulls the brake the alarm goes off and cuts the engine off. It does not happen when the engine is off, only when the engine is running. I only touched the brake light wire to hookup the lights. nothing else was touched. This did not happen before we put the lights on. They are simple led strip lights with the adhesive on the backside that sticks to the body.
Anyone have any ideas?
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Post by lain on Jul 10, 2015 10:11:18 GMT -5
Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper onto the shock.... The caliper should come right off... Not sure why you jumped right to deciding to get it off by removing the wheel. I've seen some calipers that do not have any nuts or bolts holding the caliper together, they simply pull apart and just have rods with rubber ends. The disc and position of the caliper keep them together.
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Post by lain on Jul 10, 2015 8:27:42 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Jul 9, 2015 9:17:45 GMT -5
So what you are saying is the AC cdi gives out more voltage than a DC CDI? Why should that matter? I want to know why it worked, not how it works in comparison to another CDI. I just simply want to know how an AC CDI could p[ossibly work in a DC setup when the wires aren't even the same and there is no AC voltage to feed the CDI.... Not a comparison.... Thanks though.
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Post by lain on Jul 8, 2015 19:45:49 GMT -5
They don't last long . John I want to understand why it worked. I thought the CDIs could only work in the setup they were meant to be in? like AC for AC only, DC for DC only, etc. |
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Post by lain on Jul 8, 2015 19:41:44 GMT -5
Brown wire is low beam light power, white is high beam light power, green is ground. If you don't have the high beam turned on there will not be power on the white wire.
You changed the battery, did you hook up the wires properly? Look and make sure. It is also possible you disconnected another wire by accident.
If your scooter is AC powered, the stator powers the lights, if it is DC powered the battery powers the lights.
Bottom line is you gotta go and check those wires, trace them all, understand what connects to what. Trace from the lights back to the rectifier, make sure that is plugged in as well. Then keep tracing back.
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Post by lain on Jul 8, 2015 1:10:54 GMT -5
I stumbled upon something interesting today. I was helping someone with a scooter, it is DC powered, from the battery. The CDI wires have an orange wire where the 2 wires for the cdi go, and on the 4pin connector it has a green, black, and black/yellow wire. Am I mistaken or is this not a DC setup?
Well I did not have a DC CDI on me, I had an AC CDI, stock little black box. I put it in, and it started right up with the push of the electric starter and works great. I am a little confused. Why did that work?
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Post by lain on Jul 5, 2015 17:24:33 GMT -5
Take your engine shroud off, look around the base of the head for oily spots. You said your dipstick read no oil, but there was some in there, that's because the dipstick doesnt touch the bottom of the oil pan. Fill it up, you need oil to run properly. I had a siilar issue with my 100cc BBK scoot, turned out the base gasket at the bottom of the cylinder had blown out and I had been losing a lot of oil through there and it was hard to start a lot of the time, after replacing it I have not lost any more oil or compression.
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Post by lain on Jul 2, 2015 4:01:05 GMT -5
Oh, sorry. The bolt spacing is the same. You technically can install a BBK, you just have to bore the case. I did not have a tape measure, so I had to mark a stick. The 47 was pretty close, but it wouldn't fit. I'd bet you could fit a 44mm jug in there. It's a customer's scoot, so I don't have a ton of info on the engine, and I am not going to be able to really dig into it. But, I hope to save somebody some heartache with the info I do have. He didn't pay me to take it apart to see if a BBK would fit, I just decided to loosen things up and take a peek while I was doing the valve adjustment. He wanted better hill climbing. When I went over to his place to check the engine number, and look over the scoot, I saw the CVT case, checked the engine number, and went home to assess. I ordered the JOG/Minarelli/Zuma clutch spring, and variator weights. Then, yesterday, when I took the CVT apart, the stuff I bought did not fit. LUCKILY, I had a spring and some rollers from my scooter that would fit in his. I lucked out. I'm a 1 man operation, so that could have really put a hurtin' on me. I put a new carb on it. With the 37mm bore, I had a 72 main jet in there. I was not pleased with the performance gains from the CVT upgrades I added. So, I decided to go bigger on the main jet for the heck of it, while I was waiting for the CVT to cool down. I put an  main jet in there, and that thing LOVED the bigger jet. The performance increase was marked. That's pretty large for a 37mm bore, but I popped the 4-hole off of the air filter intake, and it was perfect. Really pepped that thing up. The larger jet really complimented the CVT upgrades well. I was pleased, and he was too. It has one of those valve covers that has the plug on the top and the bottom, to adjust the valves without having to take the valve cover off. The nuts on those plugs is around 1", and there is so little room to get a big wrench in there, that it's kind of impossible. Does anybody else have a scooter that, because of the frame, a valve adjustment is a HUGE ordeal? I think valve adjustments are the hardest thing I have to do, on the scooters that have frame pieces all in the way. It's a huge pain on some of them. in a lot of 150cc's and other top mount engines the frame is often right in front of the valve cover making it impossible to mess with without removing the engine from the frame. The most recent I saw with that case was the BMS Palazzo 150 |
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Post by lain on Jul 1, 2015 21:35:35 GMT -5
Was it running recently or is it coming out of storage? You say the gas smells like gas, I've had 2 year old tanks with gas in it "smell like gas" too, just wondering if it had been sitting for a long time. It kind of sounds like there is a problem between the gas line and the combustion chamber, most likely the carb? Maybe a leaky intake manifold?
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Post by lain on Jun 30, 2015 14:30:50 GMT -5
Dude , what happened to your cat ! That's not a cat, it's gandolf's beard, he's probably using strands of it to enchant his scoot with lotr magics. I bet his scooter will get him all the way to mordor now. |
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Post by lain on Jun 27, 2015 9:15:41 GMT -5
Replace it. They are cheap and its safer to not have loose wires ontop of gas.
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Post by lain on Jun 26, 2015 13:49:21 GMT -5
So lately the past few days when I start the scoot after sitting for a while till its cold it will make a popping noise when starting, usually a couple pops then starts right up just fine. Then when warm it does not pop on starts. Runs fine, no notice in performance loss or anything else funny. Not sure how to go about tackling this weird issue. So its popping as its turning over ? Or after it starts ? Anyway you can take video of it ? I'm going to say you are running lean . you could be sucking in air somewhere causing this issue. I had a vacuum leak cause the exact same issue . on cold startups the engine would pop or backfire. But after warmup the issue stops. It would startup just fine. It pops as it's turning over yes, but stops as soon as the engine fires up properly. Usually only pops maybe once or twice on cold startup. It goes popop like it sounds like those tiny firecrackers at chinese new year parades. After the pops, without lifting my finger off the button, it starts right up just fine, all of this in less than 2 seconds I believe. Also it does not reoccur if I immediately kill the engine after start. |
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Post by lain on Jun 26, 2015 13:46:28 GMT -5
Where is the popping noise coming from? exhaust, carb, piston, CVT? On startup before it fires up it pops. It sounds to me like it may be coming from below like around the exhaust area, but other people say it sounds like it comes from the intake. I will try to remember to take a vid but it only happens maybe once a day since I have been riding so often lately I haven't really been starting cold except the first start of the day. |
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main jet in there, and that thing LOVED the bigger jet. The performance increase was marked. That's pretty large for a 37mm bore, but I popped the 4-hole off of the air filter intake, and it was perfect. Really pepped that thing up. The larger jet really complimented the CVT upgrades well. I was pleased, and he was too.
