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Post by toddmaples on Jun 29, 2015 17:10:50 GMT -5
Well it turns out the breather hose or whatever it's called was pinched closed, no smoke coming out now Popping isn't that often anymore but letting off at 1/4 throttle is still giving me a bang May need to go back down on your idle jet size then... |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 29, 2015 11:53:01 GMT -5
Just purchased some Pirelli SL26 tires for my 150cc scoot, will let you know what they feel like compared to the Kendas that are on it now. Hope to have them on by next week.... 13" Kenda wheels with the "sport" tread pattern look good on mine and have around 5000K on them and are about halfway done. Proper pressure is a must on these things to ensure proper life. Check mine every fuel-up. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 29, 2015 6:24:50 GMT -5
No. The new head is just the head and valves. The pictures just show the damage that I found once I took apart the engine. The picture with the cam also shows the cam assembly that this engine has. The rockers are on the other side. Id contact DongFang as this should be covered under warranty... |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 26, 2015 18:51:20 GMT -5
I dont have money for gasket sealant. I do have some black permatex silicone automotive adhesive. I just removed the Pair system and cut outta some sheet metal a blocking plate for the hole on the block. I need to use a sealant to seal it. Will what i have work? No. It will not stand up to the temperature of hot exhaust gasses. as long as the sheet metal is flat it should mate up good enough to seal, or use the old PAIR system gasket. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 26, 2015 13:59:41 GMT -5
So its popping as its turning over ? Or after it starts ? Anyway you can take video of it ? I'm going to say you are running lean . you could be sucking in air somewhere causing this issue. I had a vacuum leak cause the exact same issue . on cold startups the engine would pop or backfire. But after warmup the issue stops. It would startup just fine. It pops as it's turning over yes, but stops as soon as the engine fires up properly. Usually only pops maybe once or twice on cold startup. It goes popop like it sounds like those tiny firecrackers at chinese new year parades. After the pops, without lifting my finger off the button, it starts right up just fine, all of this in less than 2 seconds I believe. Also it does not reoccur if I immediately kill the engine after start. Are you cracking the throttle while cranking? |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 26, 2015 13:30:30 GMT -5
well, i bought a new bolt, washer and o ring at home depot for a total of $4 but i have like 20 washers and o rings now... lol it was a perfect fit. The leak is mostly gone, but I do not know for sure yet. Went for a 10 minute ride, parked the scotter an hour later found one or two drops of oil, but could be old oil since I really did not do a good job cleaning it all out... anyway I am not going to worry about it if it one drop here and there... Good news - problem for sure identified. Over the long haul a few drops at a time will become a real nuisance and mess. The stock bolt does not really have an o-ring as a seal - just a rubber band under the head (there is no o-ring slot for an o-ring to fit in). So it might be a bit of a problem using a normal o-ring. Solution is simple --- just smear some gasket cement (silicone) on the o-ring, under the little bolt head and you will not have any drops leaking These are not car engines, small amounts of gasket material in the system and ruin these engines... I personally would NEVER use any gasket maker on any part of the engine as it increases the likelyhood of something going wrong. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 26, 2015 13:27:01 GMT -5
It is impossible to find the gasket locally, I'll try with the gasket material and see how it works until I can find a replacement gasket. Thanks all for the help.  If you need to make a gasket , what u should do is buy a sheet of gasket paper. The cork kind. Then you can trace and cut out a new gasket that will last . Quoted for truth. Easiest way to make a gasket with cork is put the bowl on the cork sheet with something heavy on top for a few hours. Cut out the indentions left by the bowl, and voila you have a new gasket. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 25, 2015 14:39:10 GMT -5
Rubber cement it back together if not totally jacked up. Do this outside the carb and make sure to let it dry good and you should get enough life out of it to remain mobile until a replacement can come in. Do not use gasket maker,permatex, rtv or any other products on a carb bowl. One of the corners is twisted, it doesn't seal right Try a heatgun or blowdryer if you have it to twist and work back in shape... |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 25, 2015 13:13:13 GMT -5
In my opinion, no, don't use anything and attempt to make a gasket for your carburetor. What size carb is it? I have some extra for the PD24J (24mm carb)... I'll send ya one for free if ya need it. Rubber cement it back together if not totally jacked up. Do this outside the carb and make sure to let it dry good and you should get enough life out of it to remain mobile until a replacement can come in. Do not use gasket maker,permatex, rtv or any other products on a carb bowl. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 25, 2015 9:46:19 GMT -5
Presume you are talking about the chain tensioner. Yep. If you look at the bolt it actually has a rubber seal under the head. The reason is oil will literally flood out if the bolt isn't sealing the hole. If you can't find the bolt (or it's damaged), a new chain tensioner is only about $10 and is a snap to install (once the cyl. head cover is off). Suggest you just go ahead and replace the tensioner. I did buy a new chain tensioner but it did not come with the center bolt :/, time to go to home depot :-) Dont forget to get an "O" ring to make a good seal. If they dont have any presumably you could use some teflon plumbers tape to seal it in a pinch... |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 24, 2015 15:46:48 GMT -5
I, like most here, respect Alleyoops opinion, and if he says its garbage to stick with a known good brand (koso, hoca, DrP) then im going to have to believe him on that and maybe put that benjamin to better use... |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 24, 2015 13:11:19 GMT -5
This review on the site is a scooter install. In fact it is the only review so far. Sounds interesting. Best Bolt On Performance Increase 06/07/2013 Stock 2008 Shenke 150cc scoot did 54mph top speed at 8900 rpm with wide open throttle GPS verified. I bought the DR2 and bolted it on, took all of about 10 minutes. Top speed was 68mph and climbing at 8500 rpm with wide open throttle. I ran out of road at that point. Awesome smooth acceleration and outrageous top speed improvement. I'm buying one of these for ever future scoot I own. Yeah thats the only review on their site, but there are some decent ones around the web on other GY6 forums, some mediocre, others raving about it... Id really like someones input from here if they've tried it and how it compares to say a DrP or Hoca 115mm variator... |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 24, 2015 12:59:09 GMT -5
Went outside morning and she started right up. No problems at all. I guess the evap stuff really was messing it up! Thanks again everyone that has helped me! No problem brother, just pass along any knowledge to newcomers is all we ask around here. I can just about guarantee most common problems can be solved with our collective knowledge. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 24, 2015 10:44:02 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 24, 2015 9:00:44 GMT -5
Question, how important is the bolt that covers the spring retraction mechanism after installation? I never put it back on, could that have been causing the oil leak? I am trying to put the bolt it on now, but it wont go all the way down and I do not want to force it too much. Perhaps I should cut it and make it shorter? Thank you YES!! That thing will blow oil like crazy if not plugged and you have any piston blowby. |
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