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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 9, 2014 22:52:09 GMT -5
I'm buying the scrappy B block GY6 and that is the motor I'm really going to put some $ into. If you're talking about the 200cc B-case, I would give it some serious thought. That motor is for a 16" wheel and your scoot only has a 10". It's a long case as to where your's is a short case. Something else to consider is the speed rating of your tires. Most 10" tires for scoots have a speed rating of 55~65MPH depending upon quality of the tire. I know we all fall in love with our scoots and want to "Pimp our rides", But there's a lot of engineering that goes into these machines and IMO, you should really know what your doing before you go exceeding factory tolerances. I already have a "B-case" motor and started having thoughts of going all the way on the bore and stroke (232cc) but when I really got to researching what all is involved, I quickly scratched the idea. When you increase the volume of the combustion chamber, you also have to provide more fuel and air, open up your exhaust, etc, etc.... And then, because of the upgrades, you need an oil cooler (and sometimes water also) .... By the time I would be done, I could buy a brand new 250cc/300cc scoot. Anyhow, I just thought I'd share my thoughts and good luck with what-ever upgrade you decide to do! |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 8, 2014 1:30:01 GMT -5
D martin do you have a taotao evo ATM150a??? on the picture it looks like mine No, it's a 150cc Bintelli Havoc..... I was reading up about the ecotrons kit and it seems really awesome. I like all the access you can have to the running condition VIA a smartphone/tablet. I like that you can install a wide-band o2 sensor also. There's a really nice write-up about the kit on (now closed) scootdawg forum but it doesn't have any of the pictures still hosted. I would like to find the author of that thread and see if they have pics saved somewhere. That's one of the reasons I was hoping you could post pics..... I'm curious as to how your sensor looks in your exhaust (just for example). Also, do you use the apps to access the engine info? Also, I notice a lot of the programs are for win XP, you know if they work with with 7 or 8? Is this the ecotron kit you have installed?  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 7, 2014 20:07:43 GMT -5
Well would it not behoove you to take the valve cover off and measure the stud spacing and making absolutely sure you get the right one. Part numbers, part numbers, part numbers...... Yes, I could just pop the valve cover off and measure the stud spacing but I was hoping that someone on this board may have the knowledge off the top of their head. I'm new to these "Chinese Scooters" and I've taken an interest in understanding the in and out's. I've bought the Haynes Chinese Scooter manual and downloaded 100's of scooter diagrams, manuals etc etc.... Trying to make sense of the differences with these GY6 is something I'm determined to do. It's very hard to find accurate information for a particular scooter at times and with help from people, those differences can be cataloged and published. One more thing, this thread wasn't just about "my motor". I am trying to figure out how many different GY6 "B-case" motor varieties there are and what the differences are between them. You and scrappydog have added to that list already. The "16" wheel BN157QMJ" does in fact have 57mm stud spacing. Thanks for the feedback and I will pluck the valve cover and publish my results..... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 7, 2014 18:39:21 GMT -5
Here is my modified frame from my 50cc shortcase to 150cc shortcase swap. Its made with an old bed frame i had laying around. I dont know what kind of steel it is, but it was a real pain in the butt to cut and drill.
The 50cc swing arm was used because im kind of a "do with what you have" kind of guy. (or if you prefer im a deluxe redneck).
I took almost 2 full day to slap this on to make sure everything was properly aligned.
Hey, that's pretty impressive and awesome! I look forward to your progress on your newest swap.  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 7, 2014 18:03:15 GMT -5
There are a couple of B case motors one for the 16" wheel scoots and one for the smaller wheeled scoots. But either motor is different from one another and the one that is way different is the one for the 16" wheel scoots. Can you elaborate on what you mean you say "the one that's way different?" My wife has a 2011 BMS and it also has a BN157QMJ, however, her scoot has a 10" wheel. I assume that's the one they call the short GY6-B case? Her BMS also has rear drum brakes. My Bintelli Havoc however is quite the odd-ball. It has a 13" rear wheel with disk brakes. In addition, I'm not sure, but I think it could accommodate a 16" wheel. Again, another assumption is that it's a long case.... However, I do know for a fact they also make GY6-B long case with rear drum brakes.... Scrappydogs 200cc GY6 is a B, long case with drum brakes. Anyhow, the whole reason I am asking this is because I'm interested in obtaining the Taidi Oil cooler However, they have 2 different ones. One for the B-case which has 57mm stud spacing and then they have the other for the A-case that has the 54 mm stud spacing...... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 6, 2014 18:50:56 GMT -5
Must be different BN157QMJ then because on Scooterprofessor a guy blew his BN157QMJ motor and he had to get a new head and a standard gy6 did not fit. Then he broke his old rocker assembly and he ordered a standard rocker assembly and the rockers were different so I told him to swap the rockers off the old rocker assembly and put them on the new one and that worked. So there are differences not all parts are interchangeable. Alleyoop I appreciate the response..... However im hoping you can further explain these b-case engines. Some of them have a -3, -5, etc, etc at the end of the model number... I.E. BN157QMJ-3. I Have found so much conflicting info on the web about this motor im determined to make an ultimate guide to the b-case motor. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 5, 2014 11:28:05 GMT -5
Hi all. My motor is a BN157QMJ. I've seen this motor referenced as a "GY6-B" on some sites, but others list it as a standard GY6. From what I've learned so far, "B-case" motors have a 57mm stud spacing and an "A-case" has 54mm spacing. Now, something that I've found very confusing is the valve cover. I found a lot of sites stating that the GY6 "B-Case" has a 2-Bolt valve cover. My BN157QMJ does not. It has the 4 bolt, EGR valve cover. My scooter is 150cc Bintelli Havoc, with the BN157QMJ, with 13" wheels and front/rear disk brakes. Can anyone tell me if this is a "B-Case" motor Here's a link to some info at scrappydogs, but take note, they list it as GY6-B 16" wheel (mine is 13" w/disk brake) Thanks for any help guys! |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 4, 2014 12:15:38 GMT -5
That's awesome! I always wanted to see someone do a swap where they put a 150cc on a 50cc. Anyhow, I look forward to seeing your project in action! |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 4, 2014 11:59:26 GMT -5
Hi guys, here is my ride. Its a 50cc chinese scooter made by Benzhou. They are sold up here as a Nostalgia. Katastroph...... That's a beautiful scoot! I look forward to reading about your motor swap! Hopefully you'll include lots of pics! |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 4, 2014 11:58:06 GMT -5
dmartin95 Ah, I see so its more about how the bags sit on our particular body style. Yes that helps a great deal. No I can't make them for less than what you pad. I figure it's going to cost me about 150 in just materials to make mine. But as a leather worker, when people ask..did you make those? I kinda have to be able to say yes. Yeah, it's about how they sit on the particular scoot. On the Red BMS we fished the the straps through the metal bars by the seat and it holds it rock solid.... But yeah, even though you can't make 'em as cheap as you can buy them, it's always nicer to be able to say: "I made that". ... I look forward to seeing what you come up with..... ____________________________ |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 4, 2014 0:45:21 GMT -5
Here's some pics of my Main scooter I ride. Its a 150cc Bintelli Havoc. You will notice I hung my saddlebags in the opposite direction so they can hang on the slope of my frame and makes zero contact with any body panels.   |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 4, 2014 0:30:43 GMT -5
dmartin95 Pics would be awesome. I can't seem to picture how they prevent them from touching the body. Especially on a scoot like mine that is a bit more "hippy" than most other scoots. And I won't get different bags.. I'll make different bags. LOL So design ideas are mucho appreciated! Sorry it took so long to reply (work, work, work)....... Here's some pics..... I know you mentioned you could make your own saddlebags, but these are nice quality and cheap., but you may be hard pressed to make these at the price we got 'em (I bought two, one for my wife and one for me).... This is a 2011 150cc, BMS heritage Wilson's Leather offer 35% off any order of two or more items which brought saddle bags down to $65.00 each and that was with free shipping... In addition she got gift cards from giftcardgranny.com and saved another $20.00 bringing them down to $55.00 each to the door.... Notice in picture 4 how the saddlebags rest on the chrome end piece... The pics arent that good but that's where the bags rest they make hardly any contact with the body and the straps hold them 100% in place even at full speeds. After two week, no scratches "yet". Anyways, I hope this gives you some ideas for what you're planning with your scoot! Wilson's leather saddle-bad linkYou have to sign up at Wilson's leather to get the discount sent to your email. Happy scootin XY!     |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 4, 2014 0:05:36 GMT -5
You were very close! I had to un-tape the whole wiring harness in the engine compartment and discovered the two wires going to my coil was smashed in between in the under seat compartment and the frame (arcing out in the process)..... I found another set of wires going to my starter solenoid in the same spot that would have eventually suffered the fate... The more I rode, the more it was crushing the wires. I completely repaired my coil wires and cut out the bad sections going to starter solenoid, replacing the plug with a pigtail connectors. I re-wrapped the harness in in quality wire loom and made sure it was no longer in danger of being crimped. It now runs at 100% like my other havoc. I wish all scooter problems were electrical.. I can fix any electrical problem, but when it comes to theinternals of the engine (and even the carb) I have a lot to learn.....   |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 1, 2014 1:28:53 GMT -5
I think this may be the one you're looking for. $36.65 + 9.66 s&h, USD. EBAY LINK
You may need to attach a boot and re-use/re-wire the pick-up/ground etc etc.....  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 23, 2014 21:37:53 GMT -5
dmartin95 I do custom leather work and can tell you any leather tough enough to stand up to the elements will eventually scratch paint over time, especially when you consider road grime and sand getting between the bags and the body. Then consider the constant vibration of the road and motor. One idea I've been playing with and plan on putting into effect when I make the bags for my scoot is to incorporate foam padding I use in my custom camera and laptop cases. I wound up getting me and my wife some saddlebags and where they install on my scooter they don't make any contact with my panels so I got lucky. My wife has the same scooter as yours and where they sit they do not rub against the panels. they have ropes to secure the bags so they don't move around.... I'll get some pics in the next day or so so you can see what they look like on your scooter.... The foam idea is brilliant in the event you get some different saddlebags! |
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