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Post by xyshannen on Oct 7, 2014 7:52:24 GMT -5
OK I'm about to install the 59mm scrappy dog BBK with performance head. Later, say in a month or two I am wanting to put in a stroker crank. I'm being told that if I do this after the engine has been running with the BBK and stock crank, that I'm going to have to have the cylinder jug rehoned. Is this true?
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 7, 2014 10:12:05 GMT -5
Ok what's the difference between the stroker and stock crank ?
John
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 7, 2014 10:38:42 GMT -5
I'm going to put in a 4mm stroker crank. As I understand it, this is the largest crank that can be put in without having the case milled. tvnacman btw, your CDI I bought runs great! Thanks!!
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 7, 2014 10:48:31 GMT -5
I'm going to put in a 4mm stroker crank. As I understand it, this is the largest crank that can be put in without having the case milled. tvnacman btw, your CDI I bought runs great! Thanks!! How is this crank bigger , does it use larger nuts to hold the variator and magneto in place ? Great to hear the cdi is working out well . John
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Post by rockynv on Oct 7, 2014 11:31:10 GMT -5
With the longer stroke even at just 4mm you will need to hone or ream any ridges from the cylinder walls where the piston reached its end of motion with the shorter crank or you can snap the piston rings when they hit them or the lands on the piston between the rings or the edges can get snapped off. Either way you can end up loosing the rings, piston, head and cylinder if there is a large enough ridge and you do not take care of it.
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Freshman Rider
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Post by katastroff on Oct 7, 2014 11:55:12 GMT -5
Twice the hand washing. If you dont wan to bother with having your cylinder honed just do both at the same time. You will save up on soap and as a bonus, your teeth drying grin will be even bigger when you take it for its first spin.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 7, 2014 12:26:50 GMT -5
tvnacman Pardon my ignorance as I really don't know the answer to your questions. Most parts sights don't give that amount of detailed info. i just have too buy what is said to fit my engine and at what spec (like 4mm) it is in size. rockynv Ah that makes sense. I just wanted to double check. Thanks So if I understand you, if I install this new BBK and then go to a new, larger crank later, then I either have to have the cylinder honed or just put a new one on. At only 99 bucks, seems to me that the latter is the simplest option.
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Post by rockynv on Oct 8, 2014 11:33:12 GMT -5
If doing both is the ultimate goal then do them both at the same time. You are going to have to pull the engine for the crank in order to split the engine apart so you may as well get it over with. Just be mindful that you will probably have to use a thicker base gasket under the cylinder to accommodate the longer stroke.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 8, 2014 12:23:17 GMT -5
Yeah that sucks as I didn't buy the crank this month as I ran out of $ for this build. I don't plan on running this motor for more than a few months because as of next month I'm buying the scrappy B block GY6 and that is the motor I'm really going to put some $ into. I just wanted this one to give me a lil more POW wile I build the new motor. Oh well thanks for confirming this honing thing for me.
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 8, 2014 12:32:14 GMT -5
I was breaking your balls , the difference between the cranks is longer and shorter stroke . If the stroker is going to be put in the engine let that be the first mod you do .
John
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 9, 2014 8:32:51 GMT -5
LOL sorry sarcasm is hard to read sometimes.
Yeah I get that now.. Oh well I'm just going to have to be happy with this engine without the stroker. It's only going to be in use for 6 months or so anyhow. I'm getting the B block next month and that's the motor I'm planning on really building.
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 9, 2014 22:52:09 GMT -5
I'm buying the scrappy B block GY6 and that is the motor I'm really going to put some $ into. If you're talking about the 200cc B-case, I would give it some serious thought. That motor is for a 16" wheel and your scoot only has a 10". It's a long case as to where your's is a short case. Something else to consider is the speed rating of your tires. Most 10" tires for scoots have a speed rating of 55~65MPH depending upon quality of the tire. I know we all fall in love with our scoots and want to "Pimp our rides", But there's a lot of engineering that goes into these machines and IMO, you should really know what your doing before you go exceeding factory tolerances. I already have a "B-case" motor and started having thoughts of going all the way on the bore and stroke (232cc) but when I really got to researching what all is involved, I quickly scratched the idea. When you increase the volume of the combustion chamber, you also have to provide more fuel and air, open up your exhaust, etc, etc.... And then, because of the upgrades, you need an oil cooler (and sometimes water also) .... By the time I would be done, I could buy a brand new 250cc/300cc scoot. Anyhow, I just thought I'd share my thoughts and good luck with what-ever upgrade you decide to do!
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 9, 2014 23:29:19 GMT -5
dmartin95 Thanks for the heads up. But I've already started preparing for this build. My P rated white walls came in yesterday, I already have a more than adequate exhaust and intake along with the larger carb. The B block comes with an oil cooler and a water cooled head isn't out of the question. I've already looked at what kind of mods my scoot will need to accommodate the longer csae and at worst I will have to cut and mod my rear fender. I want this scoot longer to try and give it a little more stability at higher speeds, to try and make up for it's rolling brick aerodynamics/ I'm even considering stretching the frame another 6 or so inches. I have a complete shop at my disposal. Wile I myself haven't raced any cars I'm working under the guidance of my father who was a break out circuit drag racer for over 30 years. I also have a certified welder who is at my disposal. I have worked on cars on and off for over 20 years. Wile yes some of this is a learning curve, I'm an extremely fast learner. It's not about the money. I want a classic style scooter that looks and fits the 150cc profile, but is capable of the power of a 250+cc yet I'm only worried about my 0-60 mph abilities and will probably gear it so that it doesn't go over 70 mph. And just an FYI yes I'm also looking at upgrading my breaks and adding some supports in my frame to not only handle more weight but to also handle the power I'm going to be putting to the ground. Doing all of this is more than just making my scooter more than what the factory designed. It's a bit of a hobby for me. An EFI unit is also not out of the question.
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 9, 2014 23:54:32 GMT -5
dmartin95 Doing all of this is more than just making my scooter more than what the factory designed. It's a bit of a hobby for me. An EFI unit is also not out of the question. Yeah, it's quickly turning into a hobby for me as well. I've got so many gauges for my scooter now my wife joked the other day that it's going to look like an air-plane cockpit. I'm replacing the entire instrument cluster with a digital one like this one I'm also adding an vacuum gauge, temp and oil pressure gauge and last but not least, volt and ammeter gauges.... The ecotrons EFI kit is something I'm looking into as well. I really like the idea of being able to fine tune my scoot from my smartphone! The only engine upgrades I'm planning is the Taida Oil Cooler The other GY6 Oil coolers that hook into the drain plug are gimicky IMO. The Taida one actually ports the the block at the oil pump and actually circulates the oil. Only reason I'm considering the oil cooler though is because I go for long rides (over 200 miles at a time) and a large portion of that is at WOT. An oil cooler can actually screw up a motor. Operating an engine under 180* will cause moisture build up in the oil. Cooler isn't always better but in my specific situation, I need to drop the oil temp some.
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Post by bvance554 on Oct 10, 2014 0:25:34 GMT -5
Reading through this I was starting to question the logic of it all. But after reading about the shop and all of the expertise you have available, mod the he11 out of it
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