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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 23, 2014 21:29:49 GMT -5
Can you please post pictures?
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 23, 2014 21:28:13 GMT -5
Ok, so I traded in my Scorch for a (second one) Havoc.
It has almost 100 miles on it and it has been running as good as my other Havoc and then all of a sudden, today when I'm cruising I come to a stop a light and the Havoc dies. Well, I restarted it no problem and made it about a block and bam, same-thing, it dies at a stop.
At this point, I'm about 15 miles away from home. So I start limping it back home and the stalling became more frequent. If I hit a bump it would cause it to stall, coming to a stop it would stall and by the time I was a couple miles from home, it was just stalling any time I wasn't giving it full throttle. Also, it started becoming harder to start....
I did manage to limp home. I pulled the panels off and inspected all the vacuum lines and they all look intact. I checked the coil and it seemed to be secure.
This is DC setup (CDI) and I know it will not run without the battery but all electrical connections look good.....
Suggestions?
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 23, 2014 21:15:35 GMT -5
Did you by chance buy this one from Grand Rapids Scooter?  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 23, 2014 21:01:16 GMT -5
I've owned a 50cc Bintelli Scorch and currently I own 2, 150cc Bintelli Havocs so I have a little bit of experience when it comes to Bintelli products.
I purchased the Bintelli Scorch from Grand Rapids Scooter (Michigan). I live out in the country and even though my scorch ran perfectly, I needed something with more speed so I impulsively purchased a Bintelli Havoc while I was on vacation in Florida. It now has 1200 miles on it and runs like a dream....
I no longer had a need for my scorch and was going to sell it but I made a deal with a different Bintelli dealer (Adell auto center (Wisconsin) and today I was out riding and it started stalling out on me. It's under warranty but it has under 100 miles and shouldn't be acting up this soon.....
I'm sure it's going to be a simple fix but that's my experience with Bintelli.. 2 work perfect, one has issues.
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 14, 2014 11:49:51 GMT -5
Yes - there is some risk involved in doing the work yourself, as a first-timer - but you've gotta jump in at some point, right? Just take your time, follow the directions, be as clean as possible, and make especially sure the adjustment screw's lock nuts are appropriately tight before buttoning things up. At least you'll know exactly what's been done in there... something you can't say if you have someone else (noob? hack?) do it for you. And that in itself is quite satisfying and re-assuring. If you have the time and general mechanical competence... well worth it, IMO. Bob You should be a coach!  You're absolutely right....I do have to jump in there at some point because irregardless if she's running right, right now, I will at some point have to adjust the valves. I also have a 150cc Jonway (DongFang) Sunny.... It's a P.O.S.. It has had issue after issue and it's under 500 miles... That one for sure needs the valves adjusted. I can practice on that one I suppose... I actually own 3 (4 if I count my wife's) scooters at the moment... All are 150cc's so I'm going to have to expand my wrenching abilities sooner or later. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 14, 2014 11:26:15 GMT -5
I can scratch that idea then...
That's the kind of info I was looking for... If it's just big a glass pack tube, then I have zero interest in it.
My Havoc will reach 62MPH (55MPH avg easy) on level terrain and it's 100% stock. For now, that's plenty fast enough.
The way I look at it is like this, I paid 1699.99 for my 150cc, I can get a brand new 250cc for 2099.99. a $400.00 difference.
I've looked at the cost of BBk's seen the guys upjet their carbs and all the other upgrades to squeeze every MPH they can... But IMO,it's really pointless when you get out of the 50cc scooter range. The cost in upgrades would be every-bit (and could be way over depending upon upgrades) of $400... So why spend all the money and time when you could just spend the same (or less) money and get a scooter with 100cc's more?
In Michigan, Anything under 100cc is considered a scooter. With a scooter here, you do not have to insure or plate, only a registrations sticker... So if ya wanna skirt the law a bit, I get that...... But when ya get up to the 125cc and bigger it's just better economical sense to just go the next size up scooter as the cost difference between 150 and 250 is not that much....
However, I also get that people fall in love with their scoots and just wanna upgrade it... If I had more confidence in my mechanical abilities I would probably move over to the camp of upgrades. I wish I knew a scooter mechanic here in Michigan that I could intern with for a couple days a week... I really would like to know how to wrench on these scooters better.
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 14, 2014 1:16:23 GMT -5
Hey, that's awesome! Mine has the exact same tag except it has the Bentilli logo in place of the ZNEN one. The tag on mine says to set the valves at 0.06mm~0.08mm. I've seen that rivet plate 1000's times, but never thought of actually reading it...  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 14, 2014 0:55:42 GMT -5
I was surfing the web trying to see if I could locate suppliers of parts for my scooter and I happened upon a performance exhaust. Should a performance exhaust only be installed if you upgraded the air/fuel intake (not intake manifold)as well? I see a lot of people up-jet their carbs, performance air filter and CDI & Coil..... When you do that, you increase the amount fuel and air, and increase the burn rate so I can see why you would need a bigger exhaust..... But for me, I just think the performance exhaust looks sweet.... I'm not trying to gain any improvements other than the aesthetics.... It would be nice to gain a couple MPH, but that's not my goal.... However, I don't know if putting a performance exhaust on a stock will screw anything up.... Is it only for an upgraded engine or will it work fine on a stock GY6?   |
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 14, 2014 0:06:08 GMT -5
I have the BN139QMB, Znen short case 50cc. When valves are adjusted properly, it's like you say, no cranking, it just starts. I have had to adjust my valves several times, but I have also installed a BBK, which puts more strain on the valve system. Yeah, I actually had to adjust the way I start my scooters because of the ZNEN engines.  My first "Chinese scooter" I purchased was a 50cc, Bintelli, Scorch. It also had the BN139QMB and it just started as well. What I mean by "adjust the way I start" is almost every other scooter I've owned, I would have to give it a little throttle in conjunction with starting. On all of the Bintelli's i've owned, if I give it the gas while I'm starting, is the only time I will actually have to "crank" the starter to get them to start. However, If I do not give it any gas, it "just starts". ZNEN makes some really good GY6's in my opinion! What do you set your valves to? My Manual for the Scorch was very in depth and it suggest setting them to .003in on both the int and ex...... My 150cc Havoc came with exact same manual which to me suggest they want me set the Valves the same...... However, the GY6 manuals published here and other sources say .004 on the int and .005 on the ex..... I think what I'm going to do is set it to .003 on both and see how she runs. But I am going to wait until I hit 1500 miles. I'm only at 1025...... |
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Tach Help
by: dmartin95 - Sept 13, 2014 20:15:56 GMT -5
Post by dmartin95 on Sept 13, 2014 20:15:56 GMT -5
And something else I thought of.... Just for trouble-shooting purposes; You could just completely leave the illumination circuit unhooked. You do not need it hooked up for the tachometer to work.
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Tach Help
by: dmartin95 - Sept 13, 2014 18:37:40 GMT -5
Post by dmartin95 on Sept 13, 2014 18:37:40 GMT -5
edit: You know the one thing I'm doing differently was I cheated and hooked both the light power and the tach power together and have them tapped into the power feed to my speedo light. Isolation. The circuit may need to be isolated and that could be why they have different hookups. I "think" the tachometer will be inert while the scooter is off and not draw any power. (I could be wrong though and the way you have it hooked up may be perfectly acceptable.) However if you have concerns about your battery being drained you could either run a SPST relay (which will come on with keyed ignition) or like Alleyoop suggested, you could run a toggle. I personally would not however splice the two positives and two negatives together because you might be causing feedback/interference on your tach circuit from the illumination circuit. |
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Tach Help
by: dmartin95 - Sept 12, 2014 23:16:24 GMT -5
Post by dmartin95 on Sept 12, 2014 23:16:24 GMT -5
Thanks Alleyoop! I'll do that (or feel free to) once I verify the installation of my tachometer. I'm not a scoot mechanic and I'm learning this as I go. But, I am computer technician and wiring schematics are almost like second nature for me... I made a wiring diagram for the hook up, if you (or anyone else) see's any errors, please correct me so I can get an updated schematic out.  Also included is a schematic for a scooter (unsure of specific model) with a factory installed tachomter:  |
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Tach Help
by: dmartin95 - Sept 12, 2014 22:29:07 GMT -5
Post by dmartin95 on Sept 12, 2014 22:29:07 GMT -5
xyshannen - I was looking for more information and I came across a webpage that I think will help both of us. The tachometer is a bit different style, but the hookup is the same. It explains how to hook up a tachometer to GY6 scooter. -------------------------------------------------- This is the procedure of how to install TYPE R or MOTO R analog tachometer on motorcycles, The photo shown, (disregard the blurred image)  There are 5 wires comig out from this tachometer, namely 1.Green wire 2. Black wire 3. Yellow/black stripe wire 4. Red wire 5. Solid yellow wire The two wires that is being hold by black tube is for the tachometer backlight numbers 4 and 5. The other 3 wires left is for the input and the supply of the tacho itself, The GREEN wire (1) sometimes mistaken by others is used mainly by china as GROUND, this is also being used by some scooters made by them. (2) which is BLACK also mistaken as ground is actually the POSITIVE line of this tachometer. (3) is the input of the tachometer...This must be tapped on the primary side of the IGNITION COIL after the CDI output....and not from the secondary side to where your spark plug leads to.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 12, 2014 22:16:41 GMT -5
Geh3333 - Did you perhaps reply to the wrong thread?
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Post by dmartin95 on Sept 12, 2014 20:25:02 GMT -5
if it's gy6 based, and you are not having the symptoms of hard start or bad idle, then leave it be. Maybe plan on checking it at 1500 miles? Thanks guys! I appreciate the feedback. It is a GY6 based motor. It's Engine Type: BN157QMJ which is a ZNEN Longcase GY6 150cc. The motor doesn't "crank over" to start. You push the button and it just starts, hot or cold. The idle is the smoothest I've ever heard from a scooter. I've owned 4 spree's, 1 elite e and 6 "Chinese scooters" and I've never had one that runs this good. One more thing that has me concerned is I can't find what the clearances are. Bintelli makes good scooters, but terrible support and documentation. They make one manual for all of their scooters. It covers both 50cc and 150cc but has nothing to differentiate between the two. It says in the manual to set the clearances on both, the intake/exhaust to .003 in. The manual is written for a 50cc Bintelli scorch. However, I found other resources for 150cc gy6 to set the intake to .005 and the exhaust to .007... What do you guys set your clearances to? |
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