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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 24, 2014 2:43:26 GMT -5
I'm considering getting an electronic fuel pump for my scooter.
What do you recommend for PSI?
How many Liters/Gallons per hour?
(on average) How much fuel does a stock 150cc use at max throttle for 1 hour?
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 23, 2014 17:09:36 GMT -5
Alley, some people may not know what a pole is.  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 23, 2014 9:32:43 GMT -5
A big accomplishment for me. Have a bone, man.  Good Job!  That is a big accomplishment indeed! A Scooter that is fixed right will in fact give more "cha-ching" than one that's all patched up.... It also demonstrates an awesome work ethic.... My dad always told me; "If you're going to bother to do something, do it right or don't do it all"... It's something I try and live by and has served me well. Anyhow, glad ya got it fixed (and fixed right) and thanks for the Bone! |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 22, 2014 20:27:13 GMT -5
My wife purchased Shark Motorcycle Audios Shkmbt88i Snowmobile Bluetooth Multi Interphone Headsets Intercom Set and for $98.00, I consider it a steal. It works really good, really easy to use... It has more features than you're looking for but bluetooth and phone is pretty standard on these devices these days.... I can vouch for them however as they work awesome! Here's a link: Shark Moto Intercom |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 22, 2014 3:24:56 GMT -5
Short Answer - Yes, you could just by-pass the original and re-route a new wire from the tach to the coil....
Long Answer - Is still a yes but I would like to add some info.... Not too long ago, one of my scooters started having an issue of when I hit a bump, it would stall... First thought was a damaged wire... Once I got it home, I started removing the plastic to get to find my broken wire... What I discovered was that when the manufacturer put the scooter together, my wiring harness got sandwiched in between the seat compartment and the frame, making each time I hit a bump do more and more damage.
I un-taped my entire harness and discovered other wires that would have soon been damaged as they were being sandwiched as well. So I re-routed the entire harness and was able to prevent further damage. Hence the reason for the long answer... Even though you could just simply re-route and by-pass the wire, replacing the original would allow you discover what caused the original damage and if can prevent further damage... Afterall, your tach wire is not ran by itself and whatever caused the damage may be about to damage more wires.
If it were me, I would replace the original wire. Anyhow, good luck with your fix with whatever method you chose....
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 21, 2014 9:45:25 GMT -5
I live in Southwest Michigan and we're already approaching the end of our riding season....Riding is real hit and miss these days...
For me, the lowest temp I would attempt to ride in is in the 40's..... However. I am extremely bundled up at that temp.
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 21, 2014 9:37:27 GMT -5
I may post this in "tech talk with MO!" page on our site to help others. Rick Oh yea, one more thing.... I hope ya don't mind me linking to your site and using your pic.... It was just the best source I could find.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 21, 2014 9:31:36 GMT -5
ScrappyDog, No, it does not sound like an add. I feel like I struck gold with this info! Your awesome!
As you probably know, info on these scooter motors are hard to come by. I've searched all over the web and kept coming back to Scrappydogs.com for information. You also have some of the coolest Mods for these scoots out there... The 232cc BBK is awesome.... I'm glad I have this opportunity to thank you for publishing all the info that helps others and thanks for shedding light in this thread.
I'm throwing you a Bone!
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 20, 2014 23:25:58 GMT -5
Today I heard back from the distributor ( President of Bintelli Scooters - Justin Jackrel) of my scooter and they verified that my engine, an BN157QMJ is NOT a "B"-case motor. It's an "A" case with 54mm stud spacing. To summarize for anyone who reads this in the future, the BN157QMJ part number does NOT mean the engine has 57mm stud spacing. The BN at the front of the part number identifies the engine was made by BenNeng of Zhongneng, not that it's a "B"-case motor. This page on ScrappyDog has an excellent article on CHINESE ENGINE CODE DECIPHERING I.E. - BN157QMJ translates into the following: BenNeng Nhongneng 1 = 1 Cylinder 57 = 57mm Bore Q = Forced air cooling M = Use is Motorcycle J = 150cc |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 20, 2014 22:59:30 GMT -5
You sure do got it shined up and looking good! Iv'e seen hi-rise intakes before, but wow! That's the first GY6 Tunnel Ram i've seen.....  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 20, 2014 12:13:28 GMT -5
Not a problem. The following was sent to you on October 14th and October 17th: -Jason Jason (Sorry for calling you Justin, your sig list your name as Justin), Thank you for the reply and again I apologize. I was just feeling very frustrated because I thought I was just being shrugged off. However, the fact that you took the time to reply, even after my little tantrum, says a lot and I appreciate that. The information you provided allows me to buy a back up drive belt. It also helps greatly knowing if I have an "A" or "B" case as I'm wanting to install a Taida Oil cooler and I need to know what block I have. I can also now calculate how much juice my scooter produces and how much extra is there for accessories. Now I need to figure out why my Inbox is not receiving mail from Bintelli..... Anyhow, thanks again! |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 20, 2014 8:21:16 GMT -5
dmartin95, I'm sorry to hear you say that. We have replied to every email you have sent to us. Maybe they are going to your junk mail or spam folder... you sent us several emails asking the same questions... and we answered them all. Last week you emailed us and said if you don't get a reply, you'll attack us on all the message boards, which you now are doing. All we can do is reply to your emails, as requested, which we did, and very quickly I might add. Jason replied to your original questions and when you contacted me directly, I replied on Friday, October 17, 2014 at 9:38 AM. Justin, ok, if this is some sort of mistake, then I apologize for speaking out against Bintelli's lack of response. I checked my Junk/SPAM folder and there is nothing in there. I have the message saved as a notepad because I have typed it so many times. I figured I would keep sending and eventually you would reply. Yes, I did say in the last message that I would put it on the boards. Not because I want to "attack" Bintelli, it's because I was feeling extremely frustrated at the fact that I wasn't even getting a response. That's what really got me upset. I chose Bintelli mainly based upon reviews I found in these types of forums. I visited Bintellis website and it looked modern and up to date and even had parts diagrams. I'm the type that likes to fix my scooter so these looked like the perfect scoot. However, when it came to getting help after the sale, I felt as if the door was being slammed in my face. I have spent roughly $4500 Buying Bintelli Scooters this past summer, so I hope you can understand my frustrations. I purchased the Scorch from Jason in GR, MI, a havoc 150cc from Sarasota Scooters in FL, and another 150cc Havoc from Mark at Adell auto center in WI. This should entitle me to a little bit of customer service. Anyhow, I apologize if you have in fact replied and if for whatever reason, hotmail just did not deliver the message. However, this board will provide us the unique opportunity to get around that. Would you please send me the information I requested VIA this board? Either through a PM, create a thread or right in this thread.... Thank you for the response BTW. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 17, 2014 13:27:29 GMT -5
Your welcome!
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 17, 2014 12:14:50 GMT -5
This is the oil I use:  The gear Oil I use:  ------------------------------------ I see there's bit of debate and people asking about fact vs opinion.... I am going to provide a link from Mobil with some facts, but I am not going to try and substantiate any of it. I'm sharing info and will not get into which is better. Mobil 1 Synthetic FAQ'sTwo excerpts: Can different synthetic motor oils be mixed together?Mobil 1™ synthetic oil is fully compatible with conventional motor oils, semi-synthetic motor oils and other synthetic motor oils, should it be necessary to mix them. However, it is important to note that the superior performance of Mobil 1 oil will be reduced by diluting it in any way. ------------------------- MYTH: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic like Mobil 1™ oil.
REALITY: You can start using Mobil 1 synthetic oil in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 synthetic is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:Aston Martin DB9, DB9 Volante, Rapide S, V12 Vantage Coupe and Roadster, V12 Zagato, Vanquish and Vanquish Volante
Bentley Continental Flying Spur, Continental GT, Continental GTC and Mulsanne
Chevrolet Corvette C6R.S, Z06, ZR1, Grand Sport Coupe and the Corvette C7 Stingray with the Z51 Performance Package
Chevrolet COPO Camaro and Cobalt, Columbia Model
McLaren MP4-12C and P1
Mercedes AMG:
C 63 AMG, C 63 AMG Estate, C 63 AMG Coupe, C 63 AMG Coupe Black Series
CL 63 AMG
CL 65 AMG
CLS 63 AMG Coupe, CLS 63 AMG Shooting Brake, CLS 63 AMG S-Model Coupe, CLS 63 AMG S-Model Shooting Brake
E 63 AMG, E 63 Estate AMG, E 63 AMG S-Model, E 63 AMG S-Model Estate
G 63 AMG
G 65 AMG
GL 63 AMG
ML 63 AMG
S 63 AMG
SL 63 AMG
SL 65 AMG
SLK 55 AMG
SLS AMG Coupe, SLS AMG Roadster, SLS AMG GT Coupe, SLS AMG GT Roadster, SLS AMG Coupe Black Series
Nissan GT-R
Porsche:
911 Carrera, Carrera S, Carrera Cabriolet, Carrera S Cabriolet, Turbo, Turbo S
911 GT2 and GT3
Boxster and Boxster S
Cayenne, Cayenne S
One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 17, 2014 0:40:10 GMT -5
We have nothing at all to do with GMW, their service, or their scooters. Engine failures happen from time to time, no matter what the brand. The key is standing behind the product and helping out your customers, something we take pride in doing. redroush00 has been asking good questions on the forum, trying to get to the bottom of the differences between the brands that are out there... something I hopefully shed some light on. Ha! What a joke..... While it's true, Bintelli does produce a good scooter, the people who run it do not care about "after the sale" one bit. At least, that's how this Bintelli customer feels. I have contacted you personally on multiple occasions and instead of getting me the info I need, you refer me to your support form to which I've never even received a reply. I sent the same request, 4 times. Also, you have one manual for all your scooters. In addition to that, what's published on the website, differs from the material in the users manual. If anyone needs parts for their bintelli, you either go through the dealership you bought it from or you're SOL. Good luck getting ANY engine part numbers. None of their scooter Diagrams have any info about the engine. Bottom line for me is this... IMO, Bintelli does make a superior scooter to something like a TaoTao..... However the support aspect from the after-sale POV has left a very bitter taste and I expect even TaoTao would have better support for their customers than Bintelli. |
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