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Post by dmartin95 on Nov 1, 2014 22:53:33 GMT -5
Oh yeah, I got sidetracked with the cc's of my engine... You mentioned the exhaust on yours... The reason I'm even thinking about a BBK is because I wound up getting a performance exhaust by accident... I had it added to my shopping cart when I checked out... Once I got it, I think it's so pretty, I would really like to use it.....   Right now it's just sitting in a drawer in my garage.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Nov 1, 2014 22:50:06 GMT -5
Thanks! I need to work on the exhaust a lil more. I would be so lost when it comes to how much air flow/restriction a 150cc engine needs... If I ever attempted a BBK, it would have to be plug n play basically.... Even though my motor is a "BN", the president of Bintelli contacted me on this forum and gave me some details about my engine and it is in fact an "A" case motor with 54mm spacing... Max I think I can bore it without a stroker is 180cc based on this chart I found. Stock GY-6 57.4mm x 57.8mm = 149.6cc Big Bore KIT 58.5mm x 57.8mm = 155.4cc 59mm x 57.8mm = 158cc 60mm x 57.8mm = 163.4cc 61mm x 57.8mm = 168.9cc 62mm x 57.8mm = 174.5cc 63mm x 57.8mm = 180.2cc +8.2mm Stroker Crank 57.4mm x 66mm = 170.8cc 58.5mm x 66mm = 177.4cc 59mm x 66mm = 180.4cc 60mm x 66mm = 186.6cc 61mm x 66mm = 192.9cc 62mm x 66mm = 199.3cc 63mm x 66mm = 205.7cc --------------------------------- In the event that I did bore up to a 180cc, could I use my stock carb simply by upjetting it? What about if I got a stroker and went up to a 205.7cc?? Could I still use the same carb? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Nov 1, 2014 22:34:49 GMT -5
Okay, here are my first readings. Feel free to add your own and to comment on what you see here. Let me know what you think. I too think it's great to see real life numbers published. I have been considering adding an electronic fuel pump to my wife's scooter but didn't know what size of pump to get her... These numbers help me narrow that decision down. In fact, I started a thread trying to get someone to answer fuel questions, but received feedback with suggestions on how to fix it in a different way.... I don't think I got the answer I was looking for because people just didn't know.... When I get my gauges installed and operating, I will add to this thread also. This thread should be pinned in the tech help IMO. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Nov 1, 2014 16:32:42 GMT -5
The video is coming up as private and I can't view it. Doh! Sorry, first utube video ever. Should work now. Just watched the video.... She sounds nice! Good Job! |
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Post by dmartin95 on Nov 1, 2014 15:57:20 GMT -5
It's a wobbleator valve, just fill it with 2 oz of blinker fluid and be done with it......  On a more serious note, just taking a guess I would say possibly an vacuum output... Well, not an output, but rather it may allow you to install the pump inline to something else.... For the record, this is just a WAG..... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Nov 1, 2014 12:19:12 GMT -5
I have a 150cc and wouldn't hesitate for a second to take my scooter on a 200km trip.
As far as what you should have with you, I'll suggest the following:
#1 - A Cell phone. (This is a must as payphone are almost non-existent)
2, A tire plug kit and a way to inflate the tire (I keep fix a flat with me to inflate the tire)
3 An extra spark plug
4 Screw Drivers, small metric wrench set and Alan wrenches
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Post by dmartin95 on Nov 1, 2014 2:14:02 GMT -5
BTW, my above post is not meant to be a guide or a "how to". I myself would like to know as I have not seen a great deal of rectifier pinouts... I have a few wiring diagrams.
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 31, 2014 23:26:54 GMT -5
Hi guys! My scoot has been running great until recently! However when I started up the motor yesterday I noticed that I did not have taillights (running lights and I have HID for headlights so they still work as they are wired separately). Blinkers work...and one of the two taillights was blown. So I'm thinking the regulator is the culprit. With the motor running I don't measure any voltage on the wires running to the tail lights..zero. For the red wire coming off the regulator I am measuring just over 14 volts DC. The yellow (stator I think) wires are all reading around 8 volts AC. For the white wire I can't get a good reading...neither the AC or DC function on the voltmeter will work...it's like it's jumping all over the place. So I'm trying to find another regulator...problem is I can't find one exactly like the one I have. My scoot is a Diamo Fury and the regulator is part number: LY-QJ150T. I just can't find one with the same part number. So I guess my only route is to find one with the same output wires are wire it into the bike. Apparently this is easier said than done...as I can't find anything. So if you gents could please provide input as to where/how to find a substitute I would appreciate it. One interesting point is that the connector on the wiring harness has one wire that is a different color...otherwise they are indentical as indicated below. Info on LY-QJ150T: 6 wire regulator .................. wiring harnessyellow ---------------> yellow (stator) yellow ---------------> yellow (stator) yellow ---------------> yellow (stator) red---------------------> red (battery) white------------------> white (?) black------------------> green (ground)Hi, your wiring does not sound right to me..... The black wire in a lot of regulator/rectifiers that I've seen are 12VDC positive... (12VDC Monitoring wire (I.E. Connect to 12VDC feed to brake light or headlight)) The green wire is a 12volt negative ground (meaning its an electrical ground, not a chassis ground). If the black wire is a ground, it should be black for the entire length and run directly to the battery negative post. Did it come from the factory with the black wire hooked up to the green? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 31, 2014 1:15:34 GMT -5
I'm really big into utilizing gauges... I am adding a bunch of gauges to my scooter.... I'm waiting on a new instrument cluster and for the first snow to fly. My new instrument cluster is digital and the number one reason I got it was for the built in tachometer (im trying to cram a bunch of gauges in a little space). I purchased a small project box for the housing and some handlebar mounts from ebay for cheap... I also ditched the 12V, 5 watt lights and replaced them with 200ma LEDs. Here's where my project is at so far....    |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 30, 2014 12:16:02 GMT -5
Thanks for the links guys! Shannen, the one you provided a link for was in fact the one I was looking for. However, in my searching I came across a complete set. With this one, I would be able to work on almost any scooter. Take a look and tell me what you think. Partsforscooters.com has this set: Pit Posse Combination Flywheel Puller/Driver Set Pit Posse Combination Flywheel Puller/Driver Set - 10 Piece Kit Serves 15 Different Applications! All applications except M27 have right hand threads. Includes the Following Sizes: M14x1.5, M16x1.5, M18x1.5, M19x1.0, M20x1.0, M27x1.25, M22x1.0, M25.1.5, M22x1.5, M26x1.5, M24x1.0, M27x1.0, M26x1.0, M28x1.0 & M28x1.5 |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 27, 2014 10:29:56 GMT -5
Does anyone have a good recommendation for a puller? I am working on a DongFang, Sunny 150cc and I need to pull the Stator/Flywheel.
At one point, I happened across one that was setup for 150cc on one side, 50cc on the other... I would like to find one like this... However, I wouldn't mind getting a set that could do any scooter, I just want to make sure I get top quality.
I am not concerned with price. I am concerned with quality. Thanks in advance!
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 25, 2014 19:13:24 GMT -5
So If you yourself do not know what in the heck you have Don't be saying mine is a DC system. Not to many 50cc and 150cc scoots Are wired to use a DC CDI. I am the only one in this thread that stated they have a "DC system" so I'm assuming your comment is aimed towards me? Even though my stator produces AC, for all intense purposes it is a DC system. AC systems can run without the battery, DC can not. When I first joined this forum, I was in fact under the impression that my stator was a generator, but I quickly learned otherwise. At this point however, I have learned the in and outs of the way a scooter makes it juice. So, I'm not sure if you're talking to me or not, but I do know "how the heck" these electrical systems work. I could build an entire harness for a scooter at this point. There are many different threads with the ole debate, which is better, AC or DC.... While it's true the main difference is the method in which the plug gets it's spark, the operational differences are there as well. Long story short, when I first hit these forums I was looking for this kind of info and many people told me the same thing, If the main head light comes on with key, it's DC. If it comes on with engine start, it's AC. JerryScript told the author of this thread to test his setup like that and I was chiming in for the sole reason of saying that is not a good test. I have a DC CDI and my headlight does not come on unless the engine is started. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 25, 2014 0:08:31 GMT -5
The reason some scooters lights come on with the key, and others with the engine is AC vs DC. If the headlight is AC, it will only come on once the engine is putting out AC current via the stator turning. If it's DC, the battery will power the lights when the key is turned on. Not to argue anything, however I have a Bintelli Havoc and that is NOT how my main front headlight works. I have a DC system and my light does not come on until I start the engine. Jerry has a good suggestion of inspecting the harness... You have a kill switch, possibly even something as innocuous as kick stand safety switch, there's a bunch of stuff that can cause the symptoms you describe...... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 24, 2014 12:41:56 GMT -5
The video is coming up as private and I can't view it.
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Post by dmartin95 on Oct 24, 2014 12:39:57 GMT -5
I don't know why people would want an electric fuel pump because it seems like it's adding a fail point but.. In short, it's because one of my Scooters (actually my wife's) is the ole Retro style and has the fuel tank in the floor board (the bottom of the scooter and well below the carb) and cuts out at wide open throttle. I was thinking about getting this fuel pump: K&N 81-0401
 --------------------------- I recently repaired a vacuum line I thought may have been the problem and finally got a good day to test the fix.... It was still cutting out... I have a Muikini vacuum operated pulse pump that I'm going to try and if that doesn't fix it, I'm going with an electronic fuel pump or a gravity fed fuel tank.  |
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