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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 3:02:45 GMT -5
upgrading to an 11 pole stator and i find many "6 pin regulator for 11 pole upgrades" but can only find references to 7 pin regulators. the only thing i can find is that one wire is simply for the choke (on the 7 pin r/r's). my question is, if i run my choke on dc (via my key switched power) instead of the original ac side of the harness can i use the 6 pin r/r? it is a bit cheaper and the only one i can find on amazon and i'm trying to place a single order instead of multiple which adds shipping costs too. Like Tvnacman suggest, your question is a little vague on your intent..... If you already have the 7 pin Regulator/Rectifier (R/R's), you do not need a 6 pin, the 7 pin will work just fine... They're both full-wave R/R's.... In either case, I'm going to arm you with all the info you need. If you go with a 6 pin (or 7), you do not tap into the (switched on) dc wires. You tap into the AC wires. Just find a yellow coming from the stator into the main harness, and a green (or other ground color) in the main harness and you will be golden. Also, if you have an 8 coil stator, you can use your existing flywheel to save even more money. One thing to pay attention to is if you have an AC or DC CDI, They use different stators. Even though all stators produce AC current, AC and DC stators operate very differently and in most cases are non interchangeable. You can use an AC on a DC simply by not hooking up the dedicated coil ( *take note, this could however cause timing issues). However, you can not use a DC stator on an AC CDI due to lack of dedicated coil. --------------------------------------- An AC stator will have one coil dedicated to the CDI, it provides power to the CDI (it's why the CDI is smaller) and the timing pulse (pickup coil signal) (notice one coil is wrapped, that's your pulse wire (at the CDI))  A DC stator does not have a dedicated winding that provides to the CDI. The pick-up coil for a DC stator only acts as a pulse signal for the CDI, the CDI then uses power from the battery to power the pulse signal to your coil. This is the reason DC CDI are bigger, they have have internal circuitry to zap juice from the battery and power the pulse signal.... A DC stator will not have a dedicated coil/winding/pole and all coils will be bare:  ------------------------- A 7 pin R/R pinout.... A 6 PIN is the same minus the AC output (white wire)... But they are both full wave R/R's... One thing to note... I do not know how much power is available on the AC output of the 7 pin... If you only need to power the enricher, the AC side of the 6 pin is fine, but I would make sure the white isn't powering more than just the enricher.  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 30, 2014 20:35:51 GMT -5
Ok, so I wound up getting a Taida 4 valve head.... So here's the deal, they only sell an EGR equiped Valve cover while the head is a NON-EGR, at least as far as I can tell.... First pic is a stock GY6 150c , 2 valve head showing where the port is supposed to be.... Next two are the Taida 4 valve head and the missing port. (*note, the EGR valve and pipe you see on the Taida head did not come with it, it's one I stripped off a GY6 head I had laying around.)    ------------------------------------------------ Extra non specific data --- The 4 valve head is very nice! .. The mold is perfect with no flashing... This is a one of a Kind, Taida machined this Build to spec.... I have a +3.5 stroker for it with an extra tall water cooled 63mm ceramic coated cylinder (69.5 tall), 4 valve forged piston. It's going to wind up being a 191cc that's fuel injected. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 18:40:31 GMT -5
NewEgg market place sent me an advertisement email and Killer Motorsports is offering a 50cc TaoTao to the door for $599.00 That's the cheapest I have ever seen for a brand new, drop shipped scooter. LINK: |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 14:29:00 GMT -5
uh, I didn't notice what the stems were on, not 'til you guys pointed out....  >'Kat I have to admit, It was the opposite for me.... I noticed the valve stems, after I noticed the background.....  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 28, 2014 15:53:21 GMT -5
Hi, I have no advice to offer specific to the oil seal but I can add this, you should also post this thread on these two sites: thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/scooterdoc.proboards.com/On a side note, I have purchased a 180cc engine kit and will be doing what you're doing... I will more or less be re-building the engine... I've done a mower motor and wrenched on many of cars, but never a GY6. So, would you please keep this thread updated with your progress and solutions? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 27, 2014 20:14:25 GMT -5
I haven't even started working on this particular build and not quite sure when I'm going to get to it. I still need to acquire a shop press and the case cutting tool. (actually the case cutter is for a different project.) I've been in contact with Taida and big things are happening for me, very fast.... I haven't really talked about it on the forums, but I will be doing a video series using Taida products. I may be able to do the 180cc soon, but I have a Taida 191cc (63mm and +3.5 stroker) to build. I also will be building a Taida 232cc..... BTW, Taida does sell "B", short blocks (for your 10" rim).... Back to the 180cc kit, I will be sure to keep you updated. I have a lot of experience wrenching on stuff.... However, I've never built a GY6 yet so maybe I should start with the 180cc just to get some experience.... I really wish I knew a seasoned GY6 mechanic to apprentice with..... I've read my Hayes/Chilton, watched 100's of youtube videos, talked with people on here.... I think I'm ready to do this but am still nervous... Reason I'm nervous is because all the scooters run so dang good I just hate tampering with them..... But, just like the 11 pole stator I did, nothing to it, once ya do it.... BTW, I have installed the electric fuel pump on my wifes retro scooter.... Haven't had weather to test it, but it starts and idles fine..... I'll also be sure to keep you updated on that project as well. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 27, 2014 15:49:07 GMT -5
Now that is a very merry christmas indeed! I've read that the guys at ecotron are very helpful in getting those EFI kits working. Don't hesitate to call them with questions. Hope the conversion goes smooth for ya, lots of miles and smiles! Yes, to say I'm excited would be an understatement. When I purchased my scooters it all started as a Nostalgic way to relive my youth I suppose... I grew up on a Honda spree.... Last spring I purchased a Bintelli Scorch to start out with, but it was only a 50cc and I felt like I was going to get ran over on these roads out here.... So I graduated to a 150cc.... Well riding these things are fun and all, but I have found that I equally enjoy wrenching on these little scooters. I have a full shop at my disposal and have inherited tools from my father (who worked at GM) and my wifes Grandfather that owned a machine shop.... I got everything except the lathe and shop press. So I'm super excited about this kit. I'm giving serious consideration to pairing it with a Taida 4 valve head  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 27, 2014 15:13:48 GMT -5
I love the advertising background image!!!  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 26, 2014 18:49:27 GMT -5
I have good news! It is running again! checked the mail and SWEET, dmartin95 sent me a CDI and it arrived, I popped that in and BAM it started right up! I put all the panels and everything back on and the cover over the fan to allow the fan to push air around the engine as I let it idle, and again it started right up again when I tried! I am noticing some backfiring occasionally like every minute or so it'll have a small backfire pop. That's awesome the CDI worked for ya! As far as the backfiring, one thing you may want to check is your vacuum lines... Specifically the one coming from your carb.... The carb has a loop on the top of it to fish a hose through, that vacuum line, right at the carb has a tendency to break right at the connection to the carb. In most cases, you will not see a crack until you "bend" the line to expose it. I've had two scooters exhibit the behavior you describe and both was that stupid hose. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 25, 2014 20:50:32 GMT -5
Hey thanks! That's awesome! The .pdf you translated is VERY informative. I have read the ecotrons installation manual but it's hard to follow because it's not specific to the GY6 150cc scooter. The .pdf you created is much easier to follow. With the ecotrons manual, One minute you're reading about a GY6, next moment the manual is talking about snowmobiles and quads that don't even have a CDI.... I'm very excited about this kit, but at the same time I'm worried I'm going to screw up an awesome running scooter. I know Ecotrons proclaims instant starts with EFI, but my Bintelli's already start that way  But I will roll my sleeves up and dive into it.... When I do it, I'll make a video and add it to the tech section. The link on Prof is good too! I'm glad the author kept updating the thread... MY Bintelli's have a 12 pole stator that works with a DC CDI.... I'm not sure if a 12 pole is going to give me enough juice. I may have to upgrade to an 18 pole. They're rare for 125/150cc GY6, but do exist. Here's a link to a modified 18 pole stator for a GY6: LINK |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 25, 2014 19:26:45 GMT -5
Merry Christmas gang! I had a great Christmas.. The family has all been visited, wifes gone to work, finally have a minute to myself. To top it off, I had a scooter Christmas! My wife purchased me an ecotrons EFI kit , Now, as of yet, I have no idea how to hook the thing up.... I had only shown my wife because I thought it was cool, not because I was seriously going to get it... But, being the sweetheart she is, she went ahead and got it for me.... So now I have to learn how to convert a scooter from a carb, into an electronic fuel injection.... I love a challenge... And this thing looks like it's going to be one....... I'm installing it on a Bintelli Havoc.      |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 25, 2014 17:24:40 GMT -5
Martin the second Video is private cannot view it. I will be moving the Thread to tips and tricks and Electrical section for safe keeping. Thank you very much for doing the Videos and sharing with the troops. I know many have swapped and want to swap for better lighting and charging. Again Thank you for sharing the videos and taking them I know it is not easy and time consuming. Alleyoop I have made the second video public..... Without your help, I wouldn't have been able to make the video.... You're the person who gave me the info on the woodruff key and magnet position.... Heck, when I joined these boards, I didn't even know stators only produce AC....  You guys are awesome and these videos I'm making are the result of you guys taking your time to help us new scoot mechanics! So Thank you!!!  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 24, 2014 18:38:46 GMT -5
Hey gang, I purchased an 11 pole stator kit from Buggydepot.com from their holiday sale. There was lot's of questions about how to install it, whether or not it was AC or DC, will the wiring mate up, etc etc....
So I decided to make a video showing just how it's done. This is a 4 part video series with each vid around 10 minutes. Removal - Part 1, Installation - Part 2, Wiring Harness - Part 3 and lastly the starting and final checks.
I haven't had the opportunity to put an ammeter on their and test how much power I have available, but the lights, electrical and scooter spark draws roughly 100 watts and I'm at a steady 14.4v.
Anyhow, here's a link to the vids.....
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 22, 2014 3:11:29 GMT -5
Got ya covered!
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Post by dmartin95 on Dec 22, 2014 1:52:49 GMT -5
So this is driving me crazy, I can't start my ride! I noticed last week I was spewing out too much oil, there was smoke coming from my exhaust and my coat still smells like burnt oil. I tore down the engine and replaced a piston ring (the second compression ring gap was too large). I put it all back together and ignored my usual last step of checking the valve tappet gaps, and after a couple days I noticed it was having real issues staying alive, I opened it up and saw the intake valve tappet was not at the right gap, so I decided to regap both of them, intake .004 and exhaust .005 which is what I had used when I first installed the BBK. Since I regapped the valves I have not been able to start at all, not even get a single fire out of it. I can't be certain what the issue is but it started fine before I regapped the valves, sometimes hard but it always started up. I have had all sorts of starting issues in the past but this is just driving me crazy! I ended up stripping the threads off the kickstarter lever and gear trying to kickstart it in the cold. My electric starter motor has some serious issues, every second or third attempt to turn the starter motor it will just make a click noise, I have to open up the cvt case and I turn the teeth of the starter motor by rotating the bendix clockwise, usually rotating it clockwise about 2 small turns will let it turn again but only once or twice until I have to do it again so you can imagine how tedious and aggravating this becomes when trying to diagnose a starting issue. I have drained the battery 3 times now since I have started trying to diagnose the issue. When I try to start it it rotates the engine but does not fire. I thought it was an electrical issue but I am not entirely sure at this point. I have tried multiple different spark plugs, I bought a freakin 10 pack so I could be damned sure. I have tried 3 different ignition coils, 2 stock, 1 orange racing coil. I do not have a spare CDI or else I'd have tried that already. There does seem to be fuel and air flowing, I drained the carb and it filled back up with gas when I was cranking the motor. It has always been picky about the fuel and air mixture at start though since the BBK was installed, it will not take any extra fuel than the idle fuel to start, like if I try to use the throttle the engine will just stop cranking and the starter motor will sound like its being held back from pushing the engine forward, my guess is the compression is too high to add extra fuel, but I am using a thick head gasket to relieve some of the compression. Could it be possible that the cold makes it even harder and might need extra fuel but can't take it because of the compression? However that wouldn't make sense to me since it was working fine in below freezing temps. On a completely full charge it feels like it gets a spark but it may be off in timing, however does not really seem like it is doing anything with the spark. Sometimes I will hear the familiar pop of the spark igniting some fuel and air and it will shake the scoot, but most of the time it just rotates the engine without any pop from the spark. I really feel it is electrical but I just don't have the money right now for anymore spare parts to switch out with. I once had a very similar issue in the past that turned out to be a bad cdi. I just don't understand how a few hours before I regapped the valves I was starting fine then after I regapped them all of a sudden I have a starting issue that seems electrical... I feel like this may be another fried cdi issue but I can't figure out a way to test it without a new cdi, or a known working used cdi, but I just don't have the money. Yes I know they are like $10 on ebay, I don't have $10 sadly and this does not seem like something I can just MacGuyver something to fix or test it unless anyone else has ideas? Video tomorrow, too aggravated and too late right now (almost 1am at time of post) Do you have an AC or DC CDI? If it's AC, PM me your address. |
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