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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 2, 2015 0:50:10 GMT -5
sorry but you are wrong. the neutral you speak of is only for a 120v circuit of the 240v service. i think you are refering to a newer stove with a clock and timer. a simple 240v stove (dryer even) need only two phases (each at 120v) out of phase with eachother and nothing else to work. the neutral is only there for a 120v single phase circuit(clock), and the ground is only for safety purposes. Yes, you're right. I was trying to draw an analogy based on the wire count in the circuits but it was bad analaogy.... I was only pointing out there's two types of GY6 stators, what's termed "single phase" and 3 phase. Single Phase stators as you pointed out, only can make a "Half wave" for the R/R. A 3 phase stator allows (as you pointed out) you to get the full wave.... I at no point said there was a GY6 2 phase stator. And something I want to point out.... I wasn't "Bickering" with anyone.... I know you started this thread, but TVNACMAN directly quoted me and that's what I was replying to... So, I hope you don't take offense, and your thread wasn't being hijacked.... I'm on here to learn and share... My terminology was off and because of this thread I can explain it better using the proper terminology.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 2, 2015 0:19:50 GMT -5
Sorry for the late reply guys, was away for the new year. The new engine is totally stock, bought new. I am unsure of the old engine, i did disassemble to try and find out what the issue was with it but never reassembled. everything looked stock to me internally. Ok now correct pictures? Exhaust, Intake  Weird throttle spacer, also you can see the auto choke removal  After the engine warms up it seems to run decently actually, I ran it a bit more before i found a fuel leak on the tank. It does have some misfire at certain throttles. I couldn't check the plug due to the fuel leak, i didn't get a lot of run time before it started smelling like fuel. it idles fine, and seems good at full throttle, areas in the middle it seems to stutter. I'll fix the tank hopefully sometime this week and will give more info if I find anything more out. Something to consider, you may want to just pick up a stock intake, stock 24mm carb and a stock air box. You could probably get them to the door for under $50.00.... Once you get everything stock, you can then begin performance enhancements. Other members around here know a lot about tuning a carb and can probably assist... But IMO, it's best to start from scratch. Anyhow, good luck with getting it running and good job on the swap! I'm sure with help from the members around here you'll be able to get it tuned properly. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 23:26:51 GMT -5
That would be awesome to get some hard numbers out there,,,, I would also like to know just how many amps these stators are capable of producing,,,,, I have some chinese ammeter with shunts coming in the mail (Now waiting on 4th week)... I plan to test an 6, 11 and 12 pole... Only 8 pole I had I removed  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 22:51:37 GMT -5
BMS , the automated buildings can get interesting , thermisters go out of range knocks off the reset temp off sets over and under compensation . Sometimes makes the motors ramp up and or down and can't balance itself off . John Way out of my league... All I did was residential. Help home owners setup their homes so they could access the climate and alter their climate zones VIA the net.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 22:48:10 GMT -5
I really would like to put a stator on a scope and see if it's at 120Hz.....
This is starting to bug me D_and I'm going to be using google a lot tonight.....
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 22:21:42 GMT -5
Keep in mind you may have people here reading and seeing things for the first time . Terminology is important and can be misleading if incorrect . I have not scoped a stator on the scooter engine . I can tell you that 3phase 120/208 and 208/460 , each phase is 120 degrees apart and single phase is  degrees apart . For the record I do electrical work , I'm not an electrician , I'm and HVAC man . I do very detailed control wiring with alternate over ride . It gets busy . John I haven't scoped a stator either, but I for some reason was under the impression the degree of wave angle was relative to it's corresponding volt...... Hmmm... I am getting rusty if I got that part of this wrong.... I did a little HVAC as well.... I am in the IT field, comp TIA certified in A+ Hardware, A+ Software and computer sciences.... I was contracting with zonemaster to setup remote, climate controlled environments... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 22:14:55 GMT -5
Not a problem you can just take the Valve off the Valve cover and your done. You see the two screws holding the valve to the valve cover take those two screws out and the valve and all you will have is a piece on the valve cover that holds the actual valve. Alleyoop  For a cleaner look you can saw off the Valve Holder from the valve cover. Hi Alley, sorry I missed this reply..... The Taida valve cover did not come with the valve/cover/pipe...That was something I stripped off a head I had laying around just seeing if I could find a different spot to hook into the head.....Possibly cut the EGR pipe, flare it and tap the head elsewhere.... But I think that's impossible without milling an EGR port into the head??? I know a lot of people kill their EGR's, I was wanting to keep my scooter PAIR system compliant so I was street legal in all 50 states...... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 21:44:28 GMT -5
looks like your not talking about triple phase anymore . It was an analogy. And actually I was, 120-single phase, 240-3 phase |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 21:43:31 GMT -5
I still don't know what a triple phase is nor have you shown me . Did I miss something ? You know, It didn't even dawn on me that you may (or may not) be asking what a 3 phase wave-form is.... I thought this was GY6 specific,... I recalled someone saying you were a NYC electrician so I just assumed you knew how a three phase wave operates..... A three phase stator takes all three wires that are at X-volts AC, combines them producing it's own phase/wave), combines them into one circuit, so you actually have 3 waves on the same circuit.... If the Volt is 40V, the three waves would be at 40 degrees apart producing a cleaner wave that never drops to zero giving you constant power, as to where a single phase/wave drops 3 times a second.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 21:19:14 GMT -5
I still don't know what a triple phase is nor have you shown me . Did I miss something ? I know what I know , I know what I don't know when facing a problem or failure . I apply what I do know and search for answers to what I don't . The wave forms in the pictures on the graph is very pretty , was that to explain triple phase . www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12563152 (result of google search) Yep, I'd say you're missing something alright...... And I don't mean that sarcastically... Do you understand the difference AC 120/240/480 volts? If you have a device that operates at 10 amps, at 120 volts AC, it will only require 5 Amps at 240... It's under this principle a full wave R/R will allow you to double your current in most circumstances. Now, picture this, a 120 volt line only needs three lines; ground/earth, hot and nuetral (think of this as single phase alternator with only two output wire (green, yellow and white))....AC 120 eqv would be Black, White and bare.... Now, 240 Volt AC has 4 wires; ground/earth-bare, hot-black, live-red and neutral-white. Think of this as the 3 phase stator. It has 4 wires, 3 AC, Hot, LIVE and Neutral and of course your ground. This is the same principal with these stators. The point of the pics was to illustrate how tapping the coil windings differently you can either have a single or 3 phase stator.... I don't understand how much simpler I could explain it... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 19:33:46 GMT -5
What is triple phase ? I never heard of that . Oh so 6 and 8 pole stators are only make a half of a wave ? Can you use a full wave regulator on a half wave stator ? How many volts do you need to work the auto choke . Triple Phase:   and single phase:   --------------------------------- As far as how much juice the enricher requires? I don't know. Also, I don't know if you could use a full wave R/R on a single phase stator. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 18:32:30 GMT -5
Do you have a link to what R/R you ordered. It may not work. The 5 pin R/R's that I have seen are not full wave..... On a side note, I really should pay more attention to who I'm replying too... I didn't even realize it was you on the Professor's site I was talking to...  oh wow really , what happens to the other half wave ? Why don't you think it will work . Does it need to be matched with a half wave stator ?John For the record, It's called a single phase stator... And yes, you would match a 4 or 5 pin half wave R/R to it. (However, this is why I asked for the link, some 5 pin R/R's are full wave R/R's.) A triple phase stator such as the 11 coil, is capable of producing full wave theoretically doubling the amount of current that comes out of the R/R... 6, 8, 11, 12 have roughly the same amount of copper. the extra juice and what makes the 11 pole worth it is the triple phase current... So why on Earth would you put a triple phase stator on a half wave R/R. You would lose half your current and make the upgrade pointless... So can you make your scooter start and produce juice with a triple phase stator and half wave voltage R/R? sure. Would you lose half your current? Sure would... Let me try and break this down as simply as I can..... For the GY6 you have two types of stators... Single Phase and Triple phase. The single phase will only produce half wave and you normally see them with 4~5 pin R/R's.... Triple Phase stators are capable of producing full wave and that's where you get the added benefit and more juice, hence the reason 6 and 7 pin labeled as full wave rectifiers.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 14:18:26 GMT -5
And i'm sorry for the dual posts, as i am conversing with dmartin95 on his post for this on the other board. i was in a hurry to order a regulator yesterday, and due to that and lack of forsight to ask here sooner made a couple posts. i didn't get responces as soon as i needed (nobodies fault but mine) i have went ahead and ordered the 5 wire (it was only 15 bucks). i will put my meter to it when it arrives, though i'm sure it's pretty straight up charging and go from there, whether it will overcharge i'm not sure but i'm sure it will work for the short term at least. i may end up having to go with 6 or 7 but at least then i will know, and hopoefully why. thanks for y'alls help and any further enlightenment you guys can toss me about my questions will be greatly appreciated Do you have a link to what R/R you ordered. It may not work. The 5 pin R/R's that I have seen are not full wave..... On a side note, I really should pay more attention to who I'm replying too... I didn't even realize it was you on the Professor's site I was talking to... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 14:16:28 GMT -5
i haven't gotten into the lights and enricher in a while but i'm pretty sure the white from the stator is a direct to the r/r while the yellow powered the running light, headlight, enricher, then into the r/r . White is AC also.. It's white only to denote that's it's the neutral leg of the AC line.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 1, 2015 14:03:06 GMT -5
Hey dmartin95,, Didn't you do a good video on this conversion and everything just dropped in replacement? The Stator/flywheel was drop in, the charging circuit of the main harness I had to rebuild. The scooter I worked on originally had a 4 PIN R/R, meaning from the original stator I only had two AC wires, however, the 11 pole stator I used had 3 AC wires. The original charging circuit was made up of mostly 22 gauge, so I just rebuilt the whole circuit. Other than wiring, it was very simple. |
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degrees apart . 
