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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 25, 2015 14:43:44 GMT -5
In my opinion, no, don't use anything and attempt to make a gasket for your carburetor. What size carb is it? I have some extra for the PD24J (24mm carb)... I'll send ya one for free if ya need it. Thanks dude, it is a 30mm carb, the one from Scrappy, not sure if it is compatible with the PD24J   That's a bummer. No, It's not compatible. I don't have any extra 30mm's, but maybe another member will... One way or another, these gaskets aren't much money at all and I strongly advise buying a gasket instead of attempting to make one. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 25, 2015 11:25:54 GMT -5
In my opinion, no, don't use anything and attempt to make a gasket for your carburetor.
What size carb is it? I have some extra for the PD24J (24mm carb)... I'll send ya one for free if ya need it.
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 24, 2015 17:43:18 GMT -5
So I'm in the market for a new belt I still have the factory belt on at 6500 km. The belt size on there now is 835 20 30 My question is, do I need to get this exact size? Or is there different variances I get get to achieve different performance? I'm pretty sure you can use either 835 20 30 or 842 20 30... The 842 will give you a couple extra MPH in the top end range, but you may have slightly decreased take off and your scoot will be at a higher RPM. J erseyBoy Thread |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 24, 2015 14:47:48 GMT -5
There is a chance a chance the the Coating Itself may give the piston its appearance. In that case I could be WRONG. But then again. I see this Porous spot on the upper right corner of the Circlip slot big enough to stick a pin in. So whats the Coating on the Underside all About Anyhow? I don't know if it is... My my ceramic comment was a question.... I only know this is a ceramic coated kit, I don't know what all get's coated. I was actually asking you if the ceramic coating would give it a porous look. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 23, 2015 15:11:44 GMT -5
67mm and 63mm cast and forged side by side  67mm Bottom  67mm Bottom  63mm Bottom  67mm bottom  67mm bottom  67mm bottom  67mm bottom  63mm bottom  63mm bottom  You should be able to click on any of the pictures to make them bigger... They're high resolution shots and should provide the level of detail you need. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 23, 2015 15:05:42 GMT -5
Now I did notice at the top of the video if the response is copy and paste, the rep states like in the video. I believe it was Dmartin95 that stated they were made at that factory. Not saying if the pistons are or are not forged, I don't have the experience to get into that, however I think it may have been a misstatement that their pistons are created at that factory. Yes, you are correct.... I didn't even catch that (It was the middle of the night when I got the response)... When she sent me the video and it had all the Asian, I improperly assumed that this was the company Taida uses... But yeah, she said it's made like the ones in the video, not specifically that they use the company in the video. That was my mistake. -------------------------------- Piston_Guy Ok, So, I had my wife take some shots... These are Taida GY6 4 valve pistons. the 67mm is forged and the 63mm is not. The bottom of the piston has been ground down to accommodate the down stroke but you should still be able to see what you're wanting to see pistonguy. You also mentioned you wanted to see pictures of the cylinder height so I took shots of those as well. (Normal GY6 150cc cylinder height is 68.8mm) *note: The forged piston(67mm) is ceramic coated, will that interfere with what you're wanting to see? 63mm  cylinder height 69.3  Cylinder height 75.2  67mm  67mm Top  63mm Top  67mm Top  67mm Top  63mm Top  More pics coming |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 23, 2015 10:09:10 GMT -5
So the Response was "Like". I maintain the responder does not know and as predicted wore the "Corporates Hat" Note a couple Dead Giveaways. The Texture of the Raw Forging ( Very Smooth as the Forg itself is Highly Polished and Produces a Like Raw Forging) in the Video Compared to What You have and the Pic I Posted. Night and Day. If you Please take a Pic for us of one of these Pistons Upside Down showing the Un-machined Texture. This tells a thousand words. I still maintain what I said. Well, I don't doubt you know what you're talking and I don't know enough about the forging process to debate the topic.... But I do find it a hard pill to swallow that Taida isn't selling DIE forged pistons. Irregardless if Fanny wore the corporate line or not, the company in the Video is who makes their pistons... Certainly looks like a forged piston to me. Yeah, I'll get a pic published sometime today or tomorrow. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 23, 2015 0:21:58 GMT -5
Oh, we don't have to wait till Monday, I already know  Ok, this wasn't exactly the answer I was asking for, but it's what she replied with... This is the company Taida has manufacture their pistons. Watch the video then you tell me if they're true forged pistons or not: |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 22, 2015 23:54:06 GMT -5
Hey Javarod,
Did you ever figure out what your intermittent issue was?
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 21, 2015 20:48:31 GMT -5
Can you get a better picture of your muffler? It looks like someone welded two, 50cc mufflers together...
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 20, 2015 16:28:15 GMT -5
I put the 110 jet and its running pretty good now, but i feel like i had more power with a 125 jet and the stock airbox, could this be true? I know it doesnt sound right. Unless something else is broken that effects the performance. Im thinking about putting the stock air box back on and see what that does. But on another note. What are the stock weights on the scoot and if you upgraded what did you go to? If you have removed the stock air filter, am I correct in assuming you have removed your entire air assembly? Have you removed the ducting that goes to the air box? Reason I ask is because you have vacuum lines that attach to that duct, those line run off to to the emissions system... Well, if the air duct was removed, was the line that was removed capped off at emission connection point? I would really need to see what all has been done to this scooter to properly diagnose it. Also, if your scooter has had more fuel dumped into the cylinder than is being burned, it will quickly foul a plug, even a new plug. This will hinder performance. If it's a brand new, you may be able to clean it. However, a new plug is only a couple of bucks and it may be worth it to just get a new one. About the weights, I dunno. Haven't messed with them.... However, most Chinese 150's I've wrenched on have had 14 gram. You shouldn't ask other people what weights you should use. This comes down to rider weight and what type of performance results you're looking for. Take-off, top end, middle band? A combo of bottom and top? I advise researching this yourself. You will have much better results if you know what you're doing. Also, I advise against messing with the weights until you get the scoots fuel issues resolved. MY recommendation is this. Start from scratch (but keep using the new carb). Hook the stock Air-Assembly up and make sure the carb has a #35 and I would go with a 105~108.... See how it performs. If performance is good, start tweaking from there in small increments doing one upgrade at a time. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 20, 2015 10:26:33 GMT -5
I have a new scoot. Bought it off a guy cheap because it wouldnt idle. I bought i new carb and put it on ran great. For some reason everytime i fill it up i cant get it to start its like it gets flooded out. and i saw some gas comming out of the evap canister(i think thats what it is) can anyone help. And ive also got problems starting it at times. but once i get it started it will run fine and idle fine but sometimes it dies but can start it right back up and it runs great. Ive installed a 130 jet and an after market air filter straight on the carb. also have a performance cdi, and a new NGK plug and new performance coil. I can get up to top speed but sometimes feels like a wheel bearing is dragging but its not. i can let off the throttle and it will ride smooth. I need some help. I am a vehicle mechanic. and this scoot is new to me and driving me nuts. and it really ticks me off when i go to fill it up and have to call the wife to come get me cause it wont start. but i can let it sit overnight and it will start and run just fine. cna i eliminate the evap stuff??? any help would be awesome. I love this scoot but its really getting on my nerves. IMO, That jet is way too big. If you have a "free flow" (UNI, K&N) air filter, I recommend a 108, 110 max.... -------------------- I have a quantum Tour, emission removal is easy but one thing I want to point out, the reason your getting fuel in your emissions is because you're dumping too much fuel into your intake, it's being sucked into your Vacuum lines and going through your combustion chamber with some not being burnt/used and escaping the only route it has available... I will wager if you remove your emissions, you will see fuel start spitting out of your exhaust... Which, btw, do you already have unspent fuel coming out of your exhaust? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 19, 2015 12:49:34 GMT -5
Good Job!
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 19, 2015 11:28:28 GMT -5
Gotchya. I'm a Big fan of Dyno's It does take some training/practice to make very accurate comparative testing. Many Parameters to consider. Need a Whole Dmn Weather Station. They have a 3 day certification course I would have to attend in Las Vegas, Nevada. I got married in Vegas and go out there (I live in Michigan) every now and then. I may try and make this happen when winter comes around.... If I took their course, I'm sure it would arm me with the info I need in determining if I can build one of these. My motorcycle lift has a big cutout and it could be fabricated into one of these.... I asked my friend with the 3D printer (she also used to be on Professional drag race teams) about making me pulleys and she said she advises against it. Doesn't think the plastic is durable enough... But she recommended that I may wanna build something called a "Pony Brake"... You ever hear of one? She provided me a link to a really good article, check it when ya get the free time and tell me whacha think? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 19, 2015 10:31:30 GMT -5
No Local M/C shop with a Superflow or Dynojet Chassis Dyno? Not that I'm aware of. I live out in the country, about 30 minutes away Kalamazoo, 45 min for Battle Creek and about 1 hr for Grand Rapids. In short, "Local" in this case is a relative term because I would say I I don't even have a local M/C shop, let alone one with a Dyno.... Besides, don't know if you've seen any of my videos, but the amount of engines I need to have dyno'd is a lot. So, last night I figured I would research Dyno's a little better and this is what I need: SD12 SCOOTER DYNO .... It's right around $7000 and with accessories it can go up $15,000... However, they also lease. I wish I wouldn't have discovered this because now I can't stop drooling over it. It would be the ultimate tool for my shop when it comes to diagnosing issues throughout the power band. ----------------------- We have to wait until Monday for an answer about the forging. |
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