|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 18, 2015 20:49:44 GMT -5
How about some dyno runs of the stock vs stroked motor showing the full torque and horse power curves with the same head and piston if possible so we get a hard numbers of what is gained from stroking the motor? That is an excellent suggestion and it's something I want to do really bad... However, I don't quite know how, nor do I have the means currently.... I thought about getting an electric motor/generator, and fit it with a scooter wheel (acting as a pulley)... I could then belt the scooter motor to the generator and measure the current output... However, electrical motors are not 100% efficient and I would lose efficacy in the pulley setup.... The reason I haven't pursued this route yet is because it doesn't seem practical because I would need different rims for 10" ~ 16" rims.... I do have a friend with a 3D printer, perhaps I can get her to make me some gears. Does anyone have a good idea how I can build a dnyo bench tester? I already have something for measuring current. This is my latest invention. It's an electronic load simulator. I can hook it up to a stator (or even a running scooter) and measure how much current the stator can produce throughout the RPM band. Here's a video, Check it out, it's pretty cool: |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 18, 2015 9:58:59 GMT -5
I'm not trying to make any beef at all,,,and find you to be one of the most knowledgable guys on any of the scooter forums,,,your builds are excellent and so are your videos,,,it's a he11 of alot more than i've been doing lately,,,Pistonguy is in the industry and works with some of the most prestigious racing teams ,,,from f-1 moto to superbike to nascar,,,he is the piston guru,,,so if i offended you i'm sorry,,, that was not my intent No Cyborg, I'm not offended at all, or in any way.... That was in fact the basis of my last reply, I'm struggling to understand why pistonguy thought I would take his post as confrontational and why you think you may have offended me in some way.... You're one of my favorite poster I enjoy talking to... You have never, in any way, shape or form offended me and I think your one of the coolest members we have. |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 18, 2015 8:59:13 GMT -5
Not to throw gas on the fire but i've run wiseco and venoila forged pistons,,pistondude is correct this is a squeeze casting,,,there would never be this granular look  ? There is no fire.... Am i missing something here? Pistonguy makes the disclaimer he's not trying to be confrontational and you say you don't want to add fuel to fire... This isn't an argument or even a debate. With a name like pistonguy, I'm wagering he's a piston aficionado and likely knows his stuff. If he has valuable input, it will be accepted as such. It is also why I shot off an email to Taida's tech team. By this time tomorrow, we will know what forging process they use... |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 18, 2015 7:58:29 GMT -5
I will ask what type of forging process they use.
|
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 17, 2015 19:36:11 GMT -5
Why on th 157qmj with a +2.5mm Stroke does it Require a High Compression Piston? And the High Comp Piston do you have Dome Volume numbers? And who is they as in If my piston needs Machined i.e. Dome/ valve reliefs? Ive looked at the Tiada products on line and they appear to be superior product to the rest of the 4th world mfg quality I've seen but the Tiada 61mm Forged piston raises suspicions that this is not a true Forging, I zoom in on the side of the piston there is bumpy texture/appearance, strange, now I know these are most likely acid dipped for ascetics but a true Forging will be as smooth as a Prom Queens Thighs. curious. At $89.99 this is a true forging price. hope its for real. Very cool you have the prints but whats on paper and the finished can be two different things. Id like to see the cylinder heights are for real. I'm curios and not trying to be confrontational. The 2.5mm will not require a High Compression piston. I meant to say Forged... I was just thinking high compression motor while I was typing because I was talking about the 2.5mm and it virtually eliminates all the squish... Just a brain fart.... You're correct, Taida products are superior to the rest. NASRA is the proof. In addition to Taida motors smashing the competition, they even make race categories for the 230cc range (which the 232cc is a Taida engine)... First place has gone to GY6store using Taida Race engines. Taida parts are used worldwide to build the best scooter race engines out on the market. With me being a Taida distributor, that might just sound like a sales pitch, but it's not. The race results speak for themselves. As far as Taida selling "fake" forging, I'm not really going to entertain that idea. I am friends with Taida engineers, chief US marketer and a boat load of their of their sales staff. They take great pride in their work and would find even the insinuation insulting. I can however take an extremely high resolution picture of a Taida Forged piston and let you examine the pic to alleviate any concerns you may have. Also, I have both styles of Taidas taller cylinders. I can provide a picture of the cylinder height you would like. I have personally measured them and they are as stated. I didn't take your post as confrontational. You've had great questions and suggestions so far. |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 17, 2015 14:26:48 GMT -5
Where to find one for my 16" wheeled scooter! LOL Out of all the motors I've had, I have not had the opportunity to examine a 16" 157QMJ.... I do know the crank is different, but I think if you change your variator and clutch, you can use a stroker. I think the only difference is shaft length and spline count.... But that's just going off info I found on the web... I really wish I could get my hands on a 16" motor. |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 17, 2015 14:14:21 GMT -5
The Cranks on a Truing Stand with Duel Dial Indicators showing there within spec. A Mock build of the top end (no rings on piston) showing if the Piston is down in the Whole or out of the whole. A measurement could be made to know what thickness of spacer needs to be made, will have to account for the thickness of two base gaskets. Measure the Side (how too) clearance of the Conn rod. Hi Pistonguy, thanks for your excellent suggestions! I do have a truing stand but you're talking about a lot of time. I have 9 crankshafts to demonstrate in about 10~20 minute window. I have the manufacturer specs and even the blueprints/mechanical drawings for the Taida cranks and can provide info from the manufacturer. I would like to do it, just don't think I'll have time.... The mock build - You will get your request for that one. I'm cutting out a cylinder and will illustrate both, the up and down stroke... So often you see people talking about shaving the top of the piston, deeper valleys for the valves, but when you go anything large than 3.5mm, your piston will collide with the crank at BDC. The 157QMJ has enough space for a 2.5+mm stroker. Of course you would have to use a high compression Piston but short of that, no machine work is required... You can use 3 and 3.5 with machine work and no spacer, but 4, 6.6 and 8.8 all require spacer or larger (taller) cylinders and the piston still requires machine for the down stroke. Standard cylinder height is 68.8, Taida makes 69.3 and and 75.2mm tall cylinders so you don't have to use a spacer. I am not a fan of spacers and doubt I would ever use one in a build for myself. In addition, they do machine the pistons (free of charge) if you buy a complete kit. |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 17, 2015 9:55:01 GMT -5
Alright, so these are both statements I keep hearing a lot and my big question is- does the "don't buy a chinese scooter if you can't work on them" thing still apply to a chinese scooter that most people seem to agree is pretty top quality for what it is? That is an excellent question. IMO, It's about care and maintenance. Just like a car or a fancy name brand scooter, you're going to have to change the oil, inspect you spark plug and hoses etc etc. The ability to keep it out of the elements (like in a garage or shed) makes a huge, HUGE difference. If you take effort to care for your scooter and follow the proper maintenance schedule, there's no reason you can not get 10's of 1000's of miles out of your Bintelli. Many people are squeezing 25,000 + miles out of a TaoTao, think of how many you can get out of a Bintelli. Something else to consider... Tax, title, dealer fee and yadda yadda yadda...Trying to stay close to that $2000 mark is going to be perfect. You can probably get out the door with the Valor for $2000 (or under).... I'm in Michigan. Almost the same weather as you. I totally get that you wanna play before the snow flies again... I suggest taking a que from Nike and "just do it". Bintelli makes a quality scooter and for your stated purposes, I think the Valor will fit your bill nicely. BTW, I purchased one of my Bintelli's in WI from a place called Addell Auto center. |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 16, 2015 13:29:35 GMT -5
Here, very soon I'm getting ready to make a video about stroker crankshafts.
I have in stock Taida's entire line-up for the GY6. +8.8, +6, +3.5 & +3. I also have the Hoca 2.5, NCY 2.2 and 3 different "Refires" Taiwan manufactured cranks - +6, +4 and +3....
Now, when you use a stroker, there's lot's of things to consider... Will you need a spacer? Does this effect cam height and will new chain be required? Where do I get extended chain guides? What fits without a spacer? What about extended Dowels pins to connect the cylinder to the block?
These are all questions I had in the beginning and these are questions that are constantly tossed my way... But before I make this video series, I want to make it as helpful as I can and want to try and cover as much as I can. So, If you have ever been curious about strokers and have a question, toss it my way.
|
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 16, 2015 0:54:01 GMT -5
In my looking-around I think the models that have stood out to me have been Bintelli's Valor I would say it should boil down to your budget. Bintelli makes some sharp scooters that have quality components. Stainless hardware, ZNEN engines, 1 year road side service. I currently own 2 Bintelli's, for "Chinese Scooters", They're one of the best brands you can select... I personally wouldn't select a used scooter unless you are willing and able to work on it. Unless of course it's a deal like you know the actual history of the scooter. In your budget, wanting that "50's style/era" and reliability you get out of a name like Bintelli, I think a Valor may be a good choice. (They are sharp, I agree 100%!!  ) -------------------------- If you can come up with more $$$, than stated in OP, Yamaha and Honda make really nice Scooters. Same-thing with Kymco, Genuine, etc, etc, .... It's comes down to what you can afford. I have a Yamaha Smax and Bintelli Havoc 150cc as my 2, main scooters. I love them both. Yep, that Valor is sharp!!!  |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 15, 2015 23:49:59 GMT -5
What have you tried so far.... I suggest making sure the bulb is good. Sometimes a visual inspection is not good enough to detect a damaged filament and the best test is with another (known to be good) bulb... If your bulb is good, pluck it out and test the socket. To test the socket, put your multi-meter to DC mode, ground the multi-meter to the frame or anywhere you have a good ground (you can even use the socket base itself but it makes working in there difficult) .... Next, with the scooter running and the bulb out of the socket take your positive multi-meter probe and test the two little terminals in the bottom of the base, one at a time. Only one prong/terminal will work at a time. In order to test the other terminal, flick your hi/lo switch... BTW - This will not be conclusive the switch is bad - only an indicator as to where next to start looking. Do what of those test you can then report back with your results. |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 15, 2015 23:26:06 GMT -5
So, lately I have been building quite a few big bore engines and even though I haven't ran into a problem "yet", I expect soon I may find a need as I'm getting ready to build some high torque and high compression engines that may require beefier starter clutches to go with the performance starters. (I'm building all the way up to 232cc) So, in my searching so far, what I gather is that the high performance starter clutches have more "spraqs" (aka roller bearing)... In addition, some appear to have different style needle bearings. Now, the whole point of these aren't for increased performance as far speed; supposedly the additional spraqs act to distribute the load of the starter clutch, hence being able to support higher compression/torque. Anyone have any insight, experience or first hand knowledge with these?    |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 15, 2015 14:09:24 GMT -5
The more I think about these calculations , the more I have issues with them . well at least some parts. Like , shouldn't the piston pull in at least the amount of air and fuel to equal the cc of the bore ? Well considering the rings are sealed good , I would expect yes. The more I look at my calculations I come to understand that when it comes to my setup , I am pulling in the perfect amount of fuel to match the amount of air in my chamber. When it comes to a stock setup with  mpg . the amount of fuel the setup is pulling into the chamber only needs 77cc's of air to burn it. So this would be a lean condition. The part that really gets me is , how then is someone with a stock bore able to not run lean and still get or even 80 mpg ? I did these calculations not having a clue how they would turn out , and when it comes to my setup , it seems I'm running the perfect mixture . when I say perfect mixture , I mean I'm pulling in the perfect amount of fuel to match the amount of air pulled in by the 58.5 top end. I do have a question . when it comes to the cc's of the chamber . does the 155cc count the head chamber also ? When it comes to the amount of air and fuel being pulled into the top end , a bigger head size would allow in more air and fuel . I'm thinking it only counts the cylinder space . does anyone have the answer to this ? There's a lot of issues with these equations. Environmental effects come into play with the way fuel is burned, like for example in the mountains or at sea level. In addition, rider weight, scooter weight, speed etc etc... How much fuel are you using at 25MPH, how 'bout 60MPH? etc etc... Can you provide a link to where you're getting your source material at? ------------------------------ If you're wanting to measure your actual fuel consumption, I suggest getting a digital flow meter and installing it inline on your fuel line. (I'm not recommending any of these products, as I have never used them for this application. Just providing a link to illustrate what type of device I think you could use.) I'm a big fan of math, but in this instance, there's a lot of variables. |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 14, 2015 12:04:30 GMT -5
That's perfect . I still think the 106 is possibly too small. I'd at least put a 108 in there. Only problem is I don't have a 108, have a 105 and a 110, may just throw the 110 in and let her eat and see what happens lol Sorry for the lack of response Kiekara, I haven't had much time for the forums lately. Life has handed me a full plate and time has become a valuable commodity for me at the moment. Luckily, with it being Sunday, I have a minute to catch my breath. I meant to include a 105, 108 and 110. I accidentally included a 106 I guess. I didn't realize I had any 106's... I'll be most interested to see if changing the needle height fixes your bogging issue. I've used these carbs on a lot of different scoots and never had to mess with the needle. |
|
|
|
Post by dmartin95 on Jun 14, 2015 11:43:09 GMT -5
i hate to break it to you Blue but there's a giant constrictor snake on your bike That his Anti-theft system!  |
|
mpg . the amount of fuel the setup is pulling into the chamber only needs 77cc's of air to burn it. So this would be a lean condition. The part that really gets me is , how then is someone with a stock bore able to not run lean and still get 