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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 14, 2015 11:41:53 GMT -5
Hmmm, anyone know what connectors are used for the lighting, and where to get parts (connectors, pins, crimping tool)? I mean where it plugs into the main harness? I'm thinking of adding some extra lighting and would like to add it to the light circuit without hacking up the harness. I'm thinking get the parts to build my own short harness to add in that gives me leads to connect to rather than modifying the existing wiring. Hey Javarod, You can get all the terminals, pins, plugs and the crimper from cycleterminal.com. I've placed a few orders with this company and it's a good company. As far as what plugs you have, I can't say for sure because mine is a 150cc not the 50cc. Just pull the plastic off and have a look. The front faring comes off really easy. What kind of additional lighting are you planning on running? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 14, 2015 11:37:28 GMT -5
My package says: .038mm
.051mm.063mm .076mm .102mm Is this a desirable gauge set? Will this work for 50cc engine gy6? If those are what you have, IMO, use the .038 on the intake and .051 on the exhaust. That will be the equivalent of roughly .04/.05 which will work fine on a 50cc. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 4, 2015 16:39:02 GMT -5
This appears to be your crankshaft... I need to find the stroke/size  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 4, 2015 16:35:11 GMT -5
*EDIT... WHenever I come across a new engine stamp like this, I try ot add the engine specs to my collection....
I have sent out request for information on this engine. I would hold off buying ANYTHING until I get my results back.
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 4, 2015 15:17:26 GMT -5
Your engine stamp makes no sense to me... The "I" at the end of your stamp means it's a 125cc, however, the stamp also list your piston size as 57.4mm... Only thing that makes sense to me would be that your motor does not have the stock GY6 crankshaft The math comes out to to give you a (roughly) 48.2mm crankshaft....
You have an oddball. Do you know what manufacturer makes your engine? What company is the TJ for?
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 3, 2015 22:57:31 GMT -5
Getting knocked over could have something to do with it... Oil could've leaked into your CVT, but not likely...If it bogs down and the back tire is not turning, it could be your belt or something else in your CVT is bound... It's very hard to diagnose with such little info. Pop off your CVT cover and take a look at the belt and the rest of your cvt components. Yeah, i know. Still, better than the last time, it was at night and i didn't realize anything more than it was dying at quarter throttle, so at least we have a direction to look in. The shop's going to do that soon as they can get to it. Prolly have them check to see if its restricted, and maybe change the weights while their at it too. Hmmm, wonder if that'll kill the warranty. I don't know for sure, but I think modifying the engine in any way will VOID the warranty. I suggest if you're unsure, Contact Justin or Jason. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 3, 2015 12:19:59 GMT -5
Hey folks, guess what...   Well at least i got a reasonable sized tow this time. Since it died in daylight this time we also got a better idea of what's wrong. Basically it bogs down and dies at about quarter throttle. Interesting part is that i noticed that the back wheel isn't turning when that happens. It occurs to me that during a big storm we had a couple months ago the bike got blown over. I didn't think much of it at the time, it started up fine, ran fine. Hmmm, i think something might've gotten loose or knocked askew, what y'all think? Getting knocked over could have something to do with it... Oil could've leaked into your CVT, but not likely...If it bogs down and the back tire is not turning, it could be your belt or something else in your CVT is bound... It's very hard to diagnose with such little info. Pop off your CVT cover and take a look at the belt and the rest of your cvt components. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 1, 2015 2:54:22 GMT -5
That's incorrect. The 11 pole A/C stator is a three phase generator and the 7 pin R/R that goes with it is full wave. No modifications are required. That is also incorrect. All one needs to do to install a full wave R/R is install a full R/R and either couple it with three phase stator or use a two phase stator and float the ground. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 29, 2015 21:53:41 GMT -5
Ok gang, I finally started on the build of this SSP-G power kit. It's about 75% built and I have been videoing the entire process. I'm held up at the moment waiting on the FedEx truck... This kit, it a really nice kit, but it does not come with the tappets or the rocker pins... This is a "B-Case" so pins will not work off a stock head... Anyhow check out the videos, progress is coming along great and will continue to update until I start it. So far, I have 5 parts, the intro, crankshaft and crankcase assembley - Oil pump / starter group - High output 18 pole stator - and cylinder installation. I still have to finish the CVT, gears, and part of the top end. 3 more videos until I start it!  180cc Power kit Video playlist: |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 29, 2015 19:05:25 GMT -5
Bigfoot, is your BMS 260 TBX fuel injected or carburetor?
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Post by dmartin95 on May 29, 2015 14:59:49 GMT -5
I am with phatboy on this one. The A9 curve is very close to the A11 curve but A9 continues to give power increase up to 8500 and doesn't drop as fast after that. I have used quite a few of scrappydog's A9s but have not tried a A11. IMHO the A9 is the way to go I'm with Jim, and as I said in the other thread, the A-9 I think will be the way to go.... The A-11, people can get good results if they're willing to machine the valve length (according to head 1P57QMJ or 157QMJ).... The A-11 wil for sure allow that head to breath but the risk of floating your valves. I would only use the A-11 in a race (strip, not track) only engine that's paired with a stroker..... Some information I have saved about the A-11 A-11 cam being so aggressive, it abuts joint spring coil valves, and creates a hard point.
27.22 INTAKE 27.10 EXHAUST
It is therefore necessary to take them to the grinder to reduce their height, just enough to make the most efficient cam.
This minor inconvenience not plug and play, However, this is the most racing cam that is, to adapt.
------------------ And an excerpt from Martin racing performance: Best low-end torque for climbing & rock crawling. Intake lobe height: 27.18mm Exhaust lobe height: 27.08mm. This cam is what you want if you are building a low end, slow going, rock climbing, and trail jumping machine for use in the Eastern US. Also for the desert and the Rockies. Too low for dunes. Not recommended for scooters. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 28, 2015 23:16:23 GMT -5
dmartin95 yes that is correct. the NCY 61mm does not need boring We are going to get the most power from the cylinder head, thus we find it important that the head are hand ported for efficiency which would increase overall hp. Also doing a valve job which is to resurface the mating surfaces of the poppet valves and their respective valve seats that control the intake and exhaust of the air/fuel mixture that powers the motion of the pistons after the start cycle. This assure maximum power You have me confused  ... You said your friend is not boring, but you will.... If you're not boring the case, what are you boring? Also, I was under the impression the the NCY head come ported and polished.... Perhaps I'm thinking of a different brand... Why are you going with an A14 Cam? |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 28, 2015 23:11:59 GMT -5
@dmartin did you get before and after numbers, such as RPMs at low, cruising, and high speeds, and of course during acceleration? Was it a significant enough difference to need to change the CVT weights or springs? Do you mostly get more torque, mid-range acceleration, or top end? I plan on upgrading my 150cc one component at a time, including BBK, head, intake and exhaust, and sliders to dial it all in. I'm thinking of doing just the 4 valve head first, with uni intake and some exhaust modifications, then do the BBK later, and tune the CVT with sliders each time if necessary. Sorry for the late reply. No, I didn't get before and after numbers...I pretty much know what the stock numbers are. I've only taken this new engine out for a few short test runs.... This 4 valve head is taller than the stock head and in addition, the exhaust flange is at a different angle which causes the muffler to both, hit the frame on bumps and stick out about a foot past where it normally rides.... Taida makes a 4 valve muffler, I'm waiting for it to arrive in the mail... I was going to take this myffler and have it bent, but decided against it cause I need the muffler for when I test other engines.... This is what I can tell you... On dirt, with my feet on the floorboard, I can goose the throttle and literally peel out.... On one of my test rides, I hit 67 MPH and still had a couple 1000 RPM's left. It does not slow down on hills..... I'm using the stock gears and they are for sure limiting me... I'm expecting 70, maybe even 75MPH top end with the right gears..... And remember, this is a no bore upgrade... I only went up to a 155cc (58.5mm). I also have a Taida 232cc that's 4 valve. But you have to remember, this is a brand new engine and It's still in the break in period. I haven't really got into it yet... Not to mention, I have about 10 builds going on right now.... I will update you guys more with better results with some time..... My initial performance assessment is for $$$ it cost, it's well worth it. I will put my 58.5mm 4 valve, against any other 58.5mm 2 valve out there. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 28, 2015 22:36:35 GMT -5
So orders have been placed. I will post pics when it all comes in. My self and my buddy are going it a bit different. He will not go big bore and I will. For my self i ordered: Ncy 61mm head which I will have a local motorcycle race shop port and do a valve job on it Ncy 61mm big bore kit Ncy 30mm cvk carb Hoca A14 type 2 camshaft 30mm ncy aluminum manifold with erg erase I do not think I am missing anything. My total cost is at $450 in parts right now... But I got the scoot new for very cheap... What NCY kit did you purchase? As far as I know, NCY is the only manufacturer that makes a 61mm BBK that doesn't require any boring of the case.. If you got the the NCY 61mm, you don't have to bore the case. EDIT* Also, i would not take the head anywhere and have anything done... It's a brand new quality kit and IMO, you don't want it ported any more than it already is, it's matched for that 61mm piston compression ratio I think. In addition, before you try the 30mm, I suggest using the stock carb and just upjetting to a 108~120 and have a 38 slow jet on hand in case she needs a little more at WOT. Finally, I recommend to looking into having an A9 camshaft on hand. An A14 might be a little too low in the power/torque band for what you're looking for.... Remember, A8~A15 all work in the GY6 125/150cc, However, the GY6 is used in everything from scooters to dune buggies.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 28, 2015 22:28:52 GMT -5
Thank you guys so much !! I was hoping it was for an AC setup. Now I just need the regulator. I'll be able to run two h4 bulbs as long as they don't melt the lens, lol. If i have to, I'll drill a few holes near the back top of the lens so some of the heat can escape. Maybe even install a small fan somehow behind the lights. Not sure if i can find a good spot where it will actually help cool the lens. You're welcome. I recommend going with a 7 wire, full wave, 3 phase R/R. It should have 3 yellow on their own plug and a 4 pin with one of each / green / red / black / white. |
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