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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 15:26:30 GMT -5
geh3333, I took a video but I am not on wifi right now and I cannot upload it, but I will as soon as I can. Anyway Played with the settings and the best one was 1 spark per Revolution even though according to the instruction for 4 cycle one cylinder it should be 1 spark 2 revs but my scoot did not like that setting as it stated it was idling @ 4k rpm.. :-) went for a quick spin to check RPM and I am a bit disappointed that RPM seemed to be perfect... I was hoping to be able to lower roller weights a bit but I am not sure it is possible.... On take off I was just @7k RPM and then RPM would stay at around 6500 RPM all the way up to 55MPH and then peak about 7200 RPM at 60 MPH. I am on 12 Grams Rollers, wanted to try perhaps 11 Grams DR pulley sliders but I think I would reving to high... Opinions? those are not GPS speeds... so take that with a grain on salt.. MPH are a bit off. Thank you I think the GY6 sparks every revolution, even though the actual combustion only happens every other revolution.
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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 15:19:56 GMT -5
I'd also like to use my dremel and cut symbols or words into the side of the front fairing , use clear plastic over the inside of the symbols of words and install led lights to illuminate the carved out parts. I possibly might do this to the plastic between the handle bars. Maybe a symbol in the middle and have it illuminated also . any suggestions or ideas would be great . Thanks , George That sounds pretty cool. The symbols may show up better if the clear plastic is slightly "frosted"; sanded with very fine sandpaper. Looking forward to seeing it!
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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 15:15:09 GMT -5
Yup, that is why I am leaning towards a cracked head or head gasket. Going by the amount of leakage I am thinking the pressure side of the oil system. I can not think that simple flow back to the case would leak this fast. I am assuming that the oil system supplies pressure through a head bold cavity? Have not found a schematic showing the oil pressure routes to the head so just guessing until I can look into this farther. On the 150 GY6 the oil goes up through one of the head bolts.
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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 15:11:38 GMT -5
No sorry. I was in a wreck a month later and the thermometer went with the bike to the insurance company.
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Post by scooter on Apr 26, 2015 1:01:34 GMT -5
Wet sanded it with 600(400in the rough spots), sprayed it with krylon fusion hot red pepper, and automotive clear, wet sanded with 1000 and rubbed it down with rubbing compound. Then put it back together. I still need to do some more buffing, but it looks better than it did. If you have it sanded really smooth, and you've used rubbing compound, then use polishing compound and then wax it. I really like how the polish gives it a mirror shine.
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Post by scooter on Apr 25, 2015 15:52:04 GMT -5
I would guess running a rear on the front is okay, but running a front on the rear might be bad because the rear tire takes a lot of weight and is the pusher, so I'm guessing it's a stronger tire than ones made for the front. Unless it's all about the tread pattern or tire profile. Some people say to mount the tire backwards if you put it on the front because the back one is made to push and the front one is designed to brake. I have no idea. The more I think about it, the more I agree with Martin.
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Post by scooter on Apr 25, 2015 15:40:30 GMT -5
Good eye.... yes, for some reason, you can find this model all over the web and the image has been doctored and re-distributed it for some reason..... I was looking for parts for this style of scooter, saw the one in the PIC and was like, umm this isn't right. ..... BMS Bemine Google Image search results linkI'm stumped as to why someone would go through the hassle of doctoring the image of a scooter. This is what happens when you flip an image horizontally. They may have just wanted the scooters pointing left instead of right. Takes two clicks of the mouse in MS Paint.
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bali 250
by: scooter - Apr 24, 2015 23:59:54 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Apr 24, 2015 23:59:54 GMT -5
That looks good! How's the performance?
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Post by scooter on Apr 20, 2015 20:25:25 GMT -5
All the hybric ceramic bearings have been delivered, the new micro-polished and WS2 treated rear gears have been delivered. I'm just waiting on one needle bearing to be delivered, and I can swap in the rear gears, and the hybrid ceramic bearings on the rear gears and wheels. There are no hybrid ceramic or ceramic counterparts for needle bearings, so I had to use conventional needle bearings. I didn't want to use the same cheapie OEM needle bearing (it's got a plastic roller cage, and is only rated to 11,000 RPM, whereas in the bike, it can go up to 13,000! No wonder it fails so quickly.), so I found an Italian site that sells the same size needle bearing for Moto Guzzi and Aprilia bikes. It should be a higher quality bearing. It's rated to 20,000 RPM. So no one knows of a metal fabricator / CAD design house that can create a Desmodromic valve actuation system? Anyone? Anyone? No. Maybe some Ducati racers can help you find the right company to do the job. They are the only group I can think of that would be familiar with what you want and also geared for a quick turnaround.
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Post by scooter on Apr 20, 2015 17:40:38 GMT -5
To pimp mine out would only be around 250~300 for mine.... Geh is right, the GY6racingteam has awesome prices.... And they ship fast! Don't know if you seen my 11 pole stator upgrade video or not, but the one I did the upgrade to is like the one I posted in the pic above.... I think mine is about as pimped out as it's going to get. I have a stereo, mp3 player, a nice trunk, a windshield, side fairings, and some nice LED strips. The bike is basically made pre-pimped. I would like to find an OEM alarm that plugs into it. I may do a nicer exhaust later but it's not a big deal. The bike rides great and looks good and that's about all I could want, but some 16" tires instead of these tiny tens would be nice. I can't see paying thousands of dollars for a nicer scooter. I may just get a motorcycle later on.
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Post by scooter on Apr 20, 2015 16:05:59 GMT -5
Either way it's running great. Thanks, Bro!
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Post by scooter on Apr 19, 2015 22:59:13 GMT -5
Yes, they do do sell kits and all the hardware required for the build... But by the time you pieced one together, the cost would probably be so high you could buy 3 of the motors Keikara just purchased... gy6racingteam carries really nice chrome panels that I want to get once I get a little extra cash to burn..... Check out how they tricked out this scooter... I have a sunny dongfang I want to do that to: I own one identical to this: You'd probably blind oncoming traffic with the chrome , lol. Very nice " both scoots ". Yeh , the Taiwan engine cases alone are more then the new stock engine. That red looks good! I saw some nice chrome parts for mine but I just can't see paying it. $250-350 for a pretty muffler, another $200 for chromed lower body panels, terrible picture makes them look silver. Nice cvt cover though. I wonder how much that is? $125 with shipping, that is purdy! then another $100 for these beauties, windshield trim, side fairings, and shock covers So about $800-900 dollars to pimp my ride. Of course then I'd need new paint and decals...
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Post by scooter on Apr 19, 2015 22:24:58 GMT -5
I would do a total cleaning of the entire fuel system,,tank vent,tank to carb inlet first. That way you have a clean foundation to start on from there just work your way down stream....from the jets and ports to the valves and so on... Hrmm. So with brand new carb, lines, I reckon drain petcock and clean it and how do I go about cleaning a gas tank? I agree with Jersey. I worked on a scoot with bad gas recently. After I cleaned the carb it went bad again right away. I found yellow gunk in the carb bowl. I cleaned it again and same thing. I finally took the tank off, rinsed it out with gas a few times, shaking it around, put a new filter on it and cleaned the carb again. As far as I know it's fine now. What a headache. I wish I had cleaned the tank first.
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Post by scooter on Apr 19, 2015 22:01:24 GMT -5
I did a bunch of odds and ends. I changed the oil. I changed the gear oil because the manual said to use a thinner oil than what I put in it last time. They recommend 10W-30 and I had used 80W90. It IS okay to use MOTOR oil instead of GEAR oil, right? I sure hope so because I didn't see any 10W-30 gear oil at the store. I changed the variator because the one I got from scrapdawg was lame and I hope this one is better. The belt is going to be about 2mm higher on the pulley, per side, so I might be a little over geared. I'll find out tomorrow. Also took measurements of belt ride for my records and spreadsheets. What's interesting is that this variator came with grease on the weights, so now that stupid cover on the back of the 250 sized variator finally makes sense. Looking forward to seeing how that affects variator movement. Also weighed the weights and distributed them by weight around the variator for a hopefully smooth ride. I deglazed the clutch pads. I put the original carb back in, dropped the needle back down and dropped the jet size by 010. I had recently tried to richen the mixture to solve my hot exhaust pipe issue and it didn't work. Not only that, but it dropped my gas mileage by 20mpg, so I put it all back the way I started but with a slightly richer jet than original just to be safe. What's amazing is that the thing seems to run about as well with a 105 jet as it does with a 125 jet and a raised needle. The one odd thing to me is that the spring for the needle diaphragm seems much softer than most I've come across. Usually they pop the cover up pretty hard when I take the screws out, but this one just shoves it up a bit. Is that good? I don't know. Snugged up the exhaust pipe header bolts. Put it on the charger to make up for cranking it several times during testing. Feeling good about my scooter and looking forward to trying it out tomorrow to see the results.
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Post by scooter on Apr 18, 2015 21:33:20 GMT -5
Thank you for sharing that, Loosegrit.
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