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Post by scooter on May 8, 2015 15:07:39 GMT -5
Right now my car is on a restoration process, it will take at least a year to put it back on the road again, my Chinese scoot is my main transportation vehicle today, I live far from my workplace (and everywhere else), so if something goes wrong with my scoot I would be forced to buy another one right away (if money and a suitable scooter are available at the moment) to be able to go to work and so. I was thinking on buying a spare chinese scoot, or sell the one I already have and buy a Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Vespa, et al (and put full insurance on it) which are supposed to be of better quality and more reliable. Insurance here for a Chinese scooter is crazy expensive (if it gets wrecked or stolen is cheaper to buy another one), with a "better quality" scooter or motorcycle it would make sense because it is supposed to last longer than a Chinese scooter. What do you think? When I got my latest scooter, I kept the last one as a spare. It was a big load off of my mind knowing that, if mine broke down or I just wanted to do some work on it and it would be down for a while, I still had the other one to rely on. |
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Post by scooter on May 6, 2015 15:36:56 GMT -5
Yes, I used the Rustoleum safety yellow trailer. The only change was to remount the hitch so the arms were near the bottom of the box instead of the top and moved the hitch quill back to the axle. It has the long, low look of the green unit you posted a picture of. Since the trailer geometry now resembles a fifth wheel trailer I now try to get the center of gravity towards the back to ease the load on the hitch and scooter. Because of the high lean angle of my TMAX the trailer is now about as low to the ground as I can get it and not drag anything during the kickstand dragging curves. Any lower and I would have to narrow the body. A wider body and I would need to raise it. Adding a suspension would make that consideration more subject to variation, and I found the tire with 10 to 15 PSI in it takes care of a lot of the road irregularities without bouncing. I thought about using rooftop carrier boxes, but the ones I found are either too short, or to wide, or too long for my needs. With the use of screws, glue, 1/4 inch floor underlay, a little bit of 3/4 inch plywood, and 1 by 2 lumber I can get exactly what I want at a surprisingly low weight. That way I also spend a lot of time rather than a lot of money. I have lots of one and a limited supply of the other. With this latest series of experimentation I have found out it is best if the vertical portion of the U-joint is coupled to the scooter. The geometry in a turn works out much better if it stays vertical instead of leaning forward or backward. I now have these rules of thumb. Keep the loaded trailer center of gravity low. Keep the hitch point low. If you need more space, prefer length and depth. Keep it narrow. Make sure the trailer has enough lean angle to match your tow vehicle. Scooter, you found and posted many of the pictures I used as inspiration. With that much interest you must be thinking about building one yourself. When are you building yours?  I am actually inspired to build one after reading your post. The points I laid out, which you already had in mind, are just "common sense" that comes from years of designing various things. I don't need a trailer for mine but I would have fun building one. The frames on some of these look really simple to build, even with suspension. I'd love to see a picture of your new setup. A shallow "v" shape on the bottom would allow it to be lower and still give lean clearance, but there's no need to be that picky I suppose. |
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Post by scooter on May 5, 2015 21:48:18 GMT -5
Hi I am new on here and have a lot of questions. I bought the lazer 5 about a month ago and drive it about 30-35 miles a day to go to work. At first it was really zippy and great ( just super slow on takeoff and not good on hills). Now everyday it gets so much worse. It feels really bogged down, I damn near have to be pedaling and going down hill to get it started. It has absolutely no power going up hills. Im prettt sure I overfilled the oil on it thinking it was to low and thats what is bogging it down. It also makes a high pitched whining noise while speeding up. This is my only way to work everyday and I need to fix it. Any suggestions would help. Im thinking I need to drain all the oil and refill to the correct level, clean spark plug and carb. Someone help! !! I would go ahead and drain the oil and fill it back up and take it for a test drive. If it still runs bad, try cleaning the carb. Then I'd check the valve lifter gaps. |
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Post by scooter on May 5, 2015 20:01:03 GMT -5
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Post by scooter on May 3, 2015 9:02:18 GMT -5
Just finished adjusting the valves on scooter #1. First time ever adjusting valves on the scoot. It actually took me way longer just disassembling/reassembling to get to the valves than it did to actually adjust them. Its the first valve adjustment for the bike... ever (first owner/370 miles said that he had not had them done but that they were due). They were closed up... could not get a gauge in there. I'll see if the "rumble" at idle goes away. I kind of dreaded this ( I hate to touch something that is working pretty well for fear of screwing something up), but I think that now it is spot on. While I was in there, I took out the spark plug and had a look. After 300 miles, it looks very good.... not rich, not lean. Don't keep us in suspense, man! Crank that bad boy up and tell us how it went! I remember my first valve adjustment. It was magic. My bike took on a whole new life! |
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Post by scooter on May 2, 2015 14:37:26 GMT -5
If you haven't yet, meet the Chiappa (key-oppa) Rhino.  This is a sweet revolver. It is a low barrel, dual action revolver which puts the barrel more in line with the wrist by shooting off of the bottom of the cylinder. Although many older reviews of this gun were negative due to heavy trigger pull, off center firing pins, and firing mechanism issues, later reviews seem to indicate that the bugs have been worked out. That being said, Chiappa got a lot of bad reviews for customer service.  On the other hand I read a lot of reviews from people who were very happy with their Rhinos, which com in 2, 4, and 6 inch barrels, and shoot .38 and .357 rounds. People, over and over, said the gun shoots so well that .357s feel like .38s and .38s feel like .22s, and this thing will put some nasty holes in an attacking can of corn or home invading zombies.  The main differences between the Rhino and a top shooter revolver is that you have to move your fingers away from the lower part of the cylinder to avoid flash burns, learn not to compensate by shooting low, because there's less muzzle rise, and hold your hand at a slightly different angle. The accuracy of the weapon is good, and with a flat sided cylinder it has a thinner profile than many other revolvers.  While these may empty your purse at about $750 and up, you can fill your purse back up with the little 200DS you spent your wad on. I have seen a used one online for about $400, but, if you want one, I suggest you buy one with a later serial number of about 2500 and up because of mechanical issues early in production. As you can see, it looks like a clock inside!  Anyway, here is an excellent video review of a pro shooter, Jerry Miculek, firing the Rhino at a lot of different targets and even some shaving cream cans! This guy is very fast, and I was pleased to see him fire six shots on this revolver, in about one second, without any hangups. Have fun watching this video. I know I did! |
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Post by scooter on May 1, 2015 15:29:01 GMT -5
Ok so I'm getting ready to test for air leaks in just a few but I wanted to update as I just found out the carb is already a 20mm, so apparently its already been upgraded. I'm not sure of the size jets in it though. Is there any way to tell what size they are? I'll update in a bit as to whether I find any air leaks. They are usually marked on the top or side.  |
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Post by scooter on Apr 30, 2015 1:58:29 GMT -5
Apr 19, 2015 23:01:24 GMT -4 scooter said: I did a bunch of odds and ends. -snip- I changed the gear oil because the manual said to use a thinner oil than what I put in it last time. They recommend 10W-30 and I had used 80W90. It IS okay to use MOTOR oil instead of GEAR oil, right? I sure hope so because I didn't see any 10W-30 gear oil at the store. -snip- I put the original carb back in, dropped the needle back down and dropped the jet size by 010. I had recently tried to richen the mixture to solve my hot exhaust pipe issue and it didn't work. Not only that, but it dropped my gas mileage by 20mpg, so I put it all back the way I started but with a slightly richer jet than original just to be safe. I'm just curious, but does your scoot have the original muffler to that engine or a different one? Just to clarify, you are talking about the pipe that goes TO the muffler and not the muffler itself, right? Or does the muffler get excessively hot as well? Did it ever or does it sound like something loose in the muffler? Does the exhaust sound different than it used to? I'm asking these questions because of the possibility of some restriction in the exhaust system. On my Reflex scooter there is some built in restriction so that the catalytic converter (which is built into the muffler itself) will get hot enough to do its job. Just tossing the idea out there as a possibility. Motor oil should be fine for your scooter if the manual calls for it... My Silverwing calls for the same thing and it's a BIG scooter (582cc) It's the original muffler/header pipe. I'm talking about the pipe getting hot coming out of the head. I tried another muffler/header (one unit) with the same results. I also checked the tire size and it is the stock size. I need to get the other 250 on the road so I can compare the two bikes for this issue. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 19:28:00 GMT -5
OK so basically you aren't really talking about a washer but more of a shim that slides on the variator boss? If so we should stop calling it a washer because I think the point the Vespa guys had is people would open up the variator and remove any washer they found. Mine only had a very thin washer that slid onto the crank which I didn't think should be removed. Yes. I am talking about a shim, which some people call a washer. To me, a washer is something you put behind a nut for support, and a shim is something you use to adjust things. Shims for variators usually come in widths of .004 to .04 inches, or 1/10 to 1 mm. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 16:58:26 GMT -5
Hehe not sure if I missed a joke there. It's 90C so that's about 194F. I read one one website that it should be between 180F and 200F. No joke. I read online our temperatures are around 350F or 180C about. I also had found some info on that gauge and they stated it would go all the way around... I can tell you for sure it is much higher then 90C That is the reason I would love to find a reasonably priced 400 F or 200 C gauge. Well, if you read it online, then it must be true. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 16:31:53 GMT -5
Yes, you're correct.... You have a pickup coil that goes over top of your flywheel, that flywheel has a big magnet on the top, everytime that passes the pickup, it fires,,,... However, It fires to the CDI... From there, the CDI only produces 1 pules per RPM... That's why if you hook up a tachometer, you have to connect to your pulse signal coming out from your CDI and not the pickup coming in..... Do you think my reading correct now with the way I have it set up? If you are going full throttle and it says 7500-8,000 or so RPM then yes. You should be idling at around 1500-2000 or so RPM. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 16:28:11 GMT -5
I think the GY6 sparks every revolution, even though the actual combustion only happens every other revolution. Yes, you're correct.... You have a pickup coil that goes over top of your flywheel, that flywheel has a big magnet on the top, everytime that passes the pickup, it fires,,,... However, It fires to the CDI... From there, the CDI only produces 1 pules per RPM... That's why if you hook up a tachometer, you have to connect to your pulse signal coming out from your CDI and not the pickup coming in..... There was a discussion about it at scootdawg.proboards.com/thread/27047/gy6-sparks-revolutionThis was a rare event where Allyoop reversed his decision about 3/4 down the page. "Oct 26, 2009 at 12:07am Post Options Post by als01seville on Oct 26, 2009 at 12:07am Hi Troops, I stand corrected. You guys that said it fires twice on every revolution are correct. Guess you cannot believe every video showing how these motors work. I did some more research and and your correct Cruiser66 if the CY6 had a distributor it would fire on every forth stroke but it doesn't so it fires on every up stroke and one firing is wasted because its fireing on the exhaust stroke. Well it was a good science project and got to the real explanation of our 4 stroke engines. They do say the fireing on the exhaust stroke all it does it wear the plug out faster. Live and Learn and Not to Old to learn new stuff. Alleyoop " Read more: scootdawg.proboards.com/thread/27047/gy6-sparks-revolution#ixzz3YdqjvoiaOf course that was six years ago and I'm sure some scoots are different. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 16:19:41 GMT -5
I was reading Vespa forums and there were some guys joking about 49cc guys removing washers found on the outside of the variator boss, and risking messing up their cranks, as if this washer was not there just to limit top speed. I found such a washer in my 49cc Eton Beamer, but not sure if I really want to remove it (it is very thin anyway) So I just changed rollers in my vespa GTS300 and indeed there was a washer in the same place, in the case of the Vespa I have a hard time believing it could be to limit top speed, my Vespa will do over 80 mph bone stock. so the washer must be there to distribute the load between the variator outer shell and the boss, and/or to help keep the vartiator nut from loosening? Suffice it to say I put the washer back in my vespa, as it cost me too much to risk messing up  So what do you guys think about the washer issue? If the washer in in between the two pulleys then it is keeping your belt lower. If you remove it, your belt will ride higher, likely increasing your top speed, but also making you start off in a little "higher gear". As long as your belt doesn't ride so high that it comes off or hits the case, you should be okay, but people put things on scoots for a reason, and starting in a higher gear, I suppose, could do damage to your system. Also, if you go over a certain MPH, then you COULD get a ticket if you are driving a scooter that is not licensed as a motorcycle. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 16:11:32 GMT -5
No. No one got hurt. Just me. :)I see ones like mine on ebay for under $10. My oil temps were around  I think. lol... that was + whatever a full revolution is... so > 190C Hehe not sure if I missed a joke there. It's 90C so that's about 194F. I read one one website that it should be between 180F and 200F. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 28, 2015 15:32:45 GMT -5
No sorry. I was in a wreck a month later and the thermometer went with the bike to the insurance company. Ohh sorry to hear. Hope no one got hurt. I am thinking about buying one, but I would like one that goes up too 200C or 350F. Having a hard time finding one reasonably priced... Thank you No. No one got hurt. Just me. :)I see ones like mine on ebay for under $10. My oil temps were around I think. (90C or 194F to be clear) EDIT Temps for Nov 2014 show lows of 55F to highs of almost 80F. Those are the temps I was riding at, at the time. |
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I think.