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Post by scooter on Apr 17, 2015 21:02:56 GMT -5
Check out my blinkers. Also check out how I hooked up my new uni style foam filter. I made it so you can unscrew the filter right from the end of the hose you will see in the video, makes it really easy to remove and clean! Nice work, Lain! |
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Post by scooter on Apr 17, 2015 16:33:41 GMT -5
I just finished installing a new instrument cluster with a tack.my scooter didn't come with one from the factory so I haven't really had time to see the rpms. at the top end. I've been more focust on the roller wear than any thing else.but when I get time I'll check it out and let you know. ?tion doesn't the wht. of the rollers determine the top end speed with heaver rollers making it faster off the line but lowering the top end?or do I have it backwards that lighter rollers determine the top end? just want to be going in the right direction what I want is fast take off.I'm not so concerned with high top end as I do most of my riding between 25 and 40 mph. later As long as they close your variator pulleys all the way, the weight won't matter much to top speed, but they may make the bike rev higher at whatever speed you are going. Lighter weights will give you faster acceleration. You can buy a cheap tach on ebay for about $15, that wraps around the spark plug wire, for tuning purposes. I like to hit top speed at about 7,500 RPM on a 150cc gy6 engine. It's nice to have at least a couple of sets to try them out and see what you like. They can give you an idea of the extreme ends of the spectrum. You can have, for instance, a set of nines and a set of fourteens, and mixing them, by using three 9s and 3 14s will give you a set of eleven point fives as well. Then you can see where to go from there. I have a half a dozen sets for all kinds of variations. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 16, 2015 18:58:19 GMT -5
If you have a smart phone, you can download Digihud , it's a free app for your device that will tell you your speed. It's how I verify my speeds on my scoots. You can also do this with a GPS or similar device... Once you know what true speeds are, you can put "markers/indiciators" on your speedo,... For example, if you get 50MPH on Digihud and 60MPH on your actual speedo, you can mark 50 on your speedo. I have DigiHud too. I like the way you can invert the screen and reflect it off of the windshield as a true HUD. It looks neat at night. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 16, 2015 17:05:15 GMT -5
Hi every body,got a little problem I've been experimenting with roller whts. I was having what I thought was clutch chatter but discovered it was flat spots on the rollers.so I replaced the 12 grm. rollers with new ones and the problem went away,for about a week but they too developed flat spots.so I went to new 13 grm. rollers as I said I'm experimenting with the whts. as I inspected the 12's I took out they too had flat spots.so I went ahead and replaced them with the new 13 grm. rollers ,and again the 13's worked just fine but now they too are chattering .now I'm running a Dr pulley variator with out any of the spacers that come with the kit. I've ran it both ways with and without the spacer doesn't seem to make much difference .and I've been using rollers instead of sliders to dial in the variator just because their cheaper but once I get the right combo I'll order the correct sliders .I'm beginning to think it may be the Dr pulley variator maybe it just doesn't like rollers and sliders may be the answer .I seem to remember a thread a few weeks ago that mentioned having some of the same problems, I.E. wearing out the rollers. I maybe wrong about that I just can't remember (old age) I've heard of guys adding just a tiny bit of graphite to the variator ramps when using slider (any views on that idea?)I don't think it would be a good idea on the rollers as you want them to roll not slide, any way that's what I'm dealing with any suggestions ? thanks in advance. and remember ride shinny side up and rubber side down.(lol) I don't know what makes the rollers wear out fast like that, but it may be because the boss is loose in the variator hub. Have you checked to see if the variator parts sit tight on the boss, or if they have room to wobble around? |
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Post by scooter on Apr 15, 2015 20:22:28 GMT -5
Dude, I know man! I'm so ready for spring it isn't even funny lol. I HATE the cold. Yeh , this weather is horrible ! , way too cold I found a video online of Geh riding his scooter. What are the odds? See at 7:30 I'm in there too. You can see me in the very beginning. |
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fuel pump
by: scooter - Apr 15, 2015 20:20:15 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Apr 15, 2015 20:20:15 GMT -5
It would work if you had a bung on the tank (like a motorcycle).... Most of these scoots don't. You need a stand alone petcock. Just a ball valve with hose barbs for the inflow and outflow. then just plug it in, and cap off the vacuum line. You'll be golden. It will flow more then enough fuel. What is a bung? Sounds dirty. You put it in your bung hole. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 15, 2015 16:51:49 GMT -5
Just more unnecessary wear having extremely loose valves. It may not even run all that great on top of that. .004" made my scoot perform worse. I can't imagine .006"-.007" on a 139qmb engine. I see that's a 50cc. I don't know if it matters. I'm not telling him what to set his at, just that mine seemed to be too tight at 004-005. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 15, 2015 15:25:50 GMT -5
little over a month ago my air box hose was cracked. bought a replacement but it didn't have an opening for the egr system. OK, i thought no problem, i've read you can run these scoots without it. needless to say it ran poorly but still ran. over the next couple weeks i tried to solve the poor idle and believe i eventually made it worse. about 2 weeks ago i couldn't keep it running long enough to ride so it's been sitting. so as time went on i forgot i never hooked the egr back up. today i researched how to remove all of it. now it's completely removed but i'm not sure how to plug the exhaust valve. had an idea to put a bolt and seal it with gasket maker. it takes awhile for that stuff to dry and i'm not sure if it;s going to work. i've read some remove the top piece and screw in a metal plate. i don't have the tools to drill or the metal plate so want to use a sealant. any ideas? should i just let it dry over night or is their something that will work better? Mine has a small plate that goes where the valve is. I did another scoot by putting a piece of hose on the valve, put a bolt in the hose and put a clamp on the hose to hold the bolt in. You can probably order the cover plate on ebay, or make one out of aluminum or steel. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 14, 2015 16:01:52 GMT -5
When I got my first scoot it was blowing oil all over the engine bay. I adjusted the timing and put the valve cover back on with sealant. It did fine for about a day and then leaked again. I put a new valve cover gasket on and sealant, and it started leaking at the base gasket. I put a new base gasket on and it started leaking out of the valve cover again. Finally, I loosened up the exhaust valve from .004 or .005 to about .006-.007. It clicked some but the leak stopped.
I guess my valve was too tight and was opening too soon or staying open too long and pressurizing the case.
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Post by scooter on Apr 14, 2015 15:55:51 GMT -5
Hahaha,,no worries Geh,,I knew you would like it,,yeah it seemed like I got up to 7.5 RPM pretty quick,.,what was going on was I had a pretty good head wind so you will see the RPM drop a couple at one point thats why I let out of it sooner and need to do it on a calm day and start back farther.For the way I ride I am pretty happy with the tuning on the CVT I do not think my belt is going all the way too the top,,I know its not because the face is dull at the top about 1\4"of it,,i thought the 842 would help but I think it didnt matter,,the sliders are 13g,and even on the center stand if I rip it up past 7.5K the belt stays put? Im not too worried about it as long as it cruises 45-50 at 5-5.5K RPM,,thats perfect for me,,and if Im doing 40 and wack on it,,i have plenty of passing power.The scooter gets up to 50 MPH pretty fast now.If I remember correctly it only did 48 MPH before all mods. BTW I was crouching both ways,,just my helmet was sticking up over the fairing... I watched the video closely again and it almost seems like the RPM dropped a little to 7.3 and the speed was at 65 MPH,,the RPM was higher before at less then 65 so maybe the belt finally was getting to the top and if I would have stayed into it,,maybe 67 would have been possible with no wind? I agree 100%. With you being somewhat close to PA we need to get together on a scoot ride one of these days. We could possibly meet half way and do some riding, maybe plan it around some type of event somewhere. It would be nice if many of us could get together on a cross country run . man that would be something , riding a 150cc China scoot cross country. But it would def be something we'd always remember. A Chinese scoot tour! I can just picture it. "My engine is overheating." "My tire is wobbling!" "My fender just fell off!" "I think my CDI is broken!" "My carburetor is leaking!"  Just bring lots of tools. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 14, 2015 15:38:11 GMT -5
Well, the head bolts snapped off flush about a week or so ago and I decided screw it I'll get a new cylinder head. While I was changing out the cylinder head I figured I would rejet the carb but just wound up stripping the phillips head of the screws and decided it's a project for another day. Positive was that the cap on my A/F screw was super easy to get out so I could tweak it, so that was a plus I guess. Just tapped it with a flathead and it slid right out of its position so I could pull it out with some needle noses. I'll give the impact driver a try the next time I have time to play with my carb and see if that works. Thanks for the tip! Finesse cappy finesse,,you have to be so gentle when torquing up on these motors,,just tighten the exhaust nuts till they bottom out then maybe a little snug more,,they snap so easy..everytime you change the oil just give them a quick snug to see if they are loose.I got the 8mm studs with my big port head and they are much better than the stock 6mm studs. You will feel the head bolts twist before they break,,they will start twisting about 18-20ft pounds,,if your talking about the head/jug studs that is. You gotta get that scoot back together,,we need more videos!! Those videos helped me get through the cold months man looking forward too more If he keeps breaking things we're going to have to start calling him Bullwinkle! |
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Post by scooter on Apr 13, 2015 9:26:04 GMT -5
It kind of sounds like when you retested you said you were touching the battery positive and the wires, it reads 13.2 because you were not reading the wires, you were reading the battery and using the wires as ground. Go back a step, use the meter and touch the red wire on the meter to the wires, and touch the black wire on the meter to the frame, and then check again the same way but with the black wire on the meter to the negative of the battery. Your starter solenoid and relay look like they could use some new wires, I suspect you may either need new wires or may have a wire making contact with another or the frame where it shouldn't. Try to read for stray power leak by putting the black wire of the meter on the negative of the battery, and the positive on the frame in various places, but I would start with near the area where the switch goes and along the area where the wires run. Unless you have exposed all wires and checked them all individually this could be a way to test for it. I once had a leak basically where one of my positive wires going to my ignition was frayed after someone tried to steal my ride. It gave weak battery symptoms and then stopped responding altogether till I traced all the wires and found the issue, but before I traced the wires I did the above test and found there was power coming from the frame, and there shouldn't be any power coming from the frame. We were telling him to check his ground wires that way. His ground, green, wire is obviously good. I don't know about the other two wires. I would suggest he run a continuity meter across the terminals of the ignition so he can see how they function. That might help him hook them up correctly. Obviously, two of the terminals should not have continuity until the switch is turned on. The terminal for the lights and the engine electric should read continuous with the key on. If two of the terminals are continuous with the switch in the off position, then I'd assume those were the two hot wires. If there is an accessory only terminal, it should be continuous when the key is in the accessory position, and the other terminal should not be. |
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Post by scooter on Apr 13, 2015 9:12:09 GMT -5
scooter, have you tried light colored mesh gear? I am seriously cooler in my pink and white jacket than not, even at stops. My best friend (who's driven motorcycles for...30? years??) sort of tested the theory. Rode for a while without his jacket, then with it. He told me yes, he was definitely cooler with it. And one day he rode from Lawrence to my home, and his jacket and gloves didn't meet. And his wrists were terribly hot most of the way, while the rest of him was comfortable in the breeze. Stay away from black gear, which sucks in the sun's heat as well as being less noticeable. "Cooler" isn't cooler!  Or else someone makes a very meshy top that is pretty much just the armour held in place with very open mesh. Sorry, I don't know who made it--I saw it in an online auction. I was tempted to bid, but I know myself and I wouldn't be comfortable in less protection than full coverage. Plus it went for more than I was willing to pay, what with the new car payments sigh. >'Kat No. I have not tried any riding pants or jackets. Even my nylon one is too hot in the summer. I will look into those mesh ones. Thanks! |
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Post by scooter on Apr 13, 2015 9:02:15 GMT -5
Have another bone, man. Your 50th. You are now a Great Big Dawg!
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Post by scooter on Apr 12, 2015 17:39:44 GMT -5
just curious did you end up getting the uni? If so what size jet did you get to work? I just put on the same exhaust with a uni with a 115 but i didn't get a chance to tune it got dark out so I'll do it in the morning Bah, no such luck yet my friend. Stripped the screws on my carb trying to rejet for the pod filter and wound up not installing. I just finished replacing my cylinder head (busted studs flush with the head) and had no patience or willingness to deal with it at the time. :-p They are soft and easy to strip. I use an impact driver with a phillips tip. Works great, even on screws with partially stripped heads. Or do you mean the threads? You busted the head bolts too? |
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