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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 25, 2013 20:15:45 GMT -5
Mine were balanced with a static bubble balancer . If you go to Cycle Gear they have a high speed computer balancer
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 25, 2013 20:14:27 GMT -5
When the valves are too tight they can prevent enough fuel and air needed to run or start the engine in some cases . Check the valves with the engine cold
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 24, 2013 12:06:35 GMT -5
Yeeeaaaaaah hope we get more GOOD members
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 24, 2013 12:02:31 GMT -5
Bore x stroke = displacement
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 24, 2013 12:00:46 GMT -5
Many can have a false positive . To be truly safe even with no antivirus program log on with a limited user account instead of an admin and you can never get infected . I use Microsoft Security Essentials and Avira
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 24, 2013 9:06:18 GMT -5
Self balancing tires  No such thing . I got mine balanced with weights and wow such an improvement . There is balance beads too but I have not used them . Many stock tires are not that good . My TaoTao had such a knot I only made it a 1/4 mile before I took it back to get another front tire when it was new |
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 22, 2013 22:54:18 GMT -5
On my 2T I tried going from 6 grams to 4 grams and all it did was rev higher with a slower speed with top end loss .
Pushing it to its max RPM can wear it out faster , have increased risk of damage and less MPG . Wow with that many diff weights I would think you could spend all day testing a restesting and hopefully get it to how you like it . Stock clutch and torque springs ?
My Echarm came with 12g rollers and I switched to 12g Dr Pulley sliders and loved how it had a better acceleration curve and gained 5 MPH on top end . I would like to test heavier weight to see what my top end would be as well as try 11gs with 1k or 1.5k clutch springs to see how fast it would be on takeoff . My takeoff is quite fast and I stay around 45 to 60 MPH as when I go above that it gets sketchy and outright skeery at 75 . I do not have a tach but I have a rev limit of 8,5000 according to my paperwork as mine is controlled by the ECU instead of a CDI box .
Instead of redlining it you might want to look into getting taller final drive gears instead
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 22, 2013 22:44:43 GMT -5
Yes an 11 pole upgrade would need a matching regulator . My tail light went out on my Magnum and was a good excuse to get an 1157 LED instead of 1157 light bulb . It has dual 35watt bulbs and brightens and dims with RPM changes and also would dim when brakes applied . With LED it did have a tad more brightness . You can also replace the running and dash lights with LEDs . If you opt to use LED blinkers it will require a matching relay for them .
I am so lucky my Echarm has a 12 pole stator and DC headlights that always stay the same level of brightness . My old TaoTao was barely above a candle and no good for late night rides in the country .
There is the option of HID headlight(s) but costly and more than just a bulb swap . The do put out more lumens but the blueish hue blinds and glares to me as I prefer a slight yellow hue with my bad eyes
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 22, 2013 22:34:48 GMT -5
Yes please take a picture for us to be certain as to what it is
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 22, 2013 22:33:00 GMT -5
Oil passages and clearances vary in engine types . For example newer cars use the thin oil but older ( maybe new as well unsure ) BMWs and Mercedes use 20w50 since the passages are bigger . I would only use a brand name 10w40 dino at first and synthetic once broken in . I used Shell Rotella 15w40 since it tough enough for Diesels and my manual said 15w40 was suggested but weird it uses the same in the gears as most others use GL5 which is 80w90 .
Too thin is no good just as too thick like straight 50 will not circulate as good and be harder on the pump .
Stick with any premium 10w40 engine oil used for cars and change at 1,000 miles or when it starts to go from golden to getting blackened . If all the way black it should have been changed before hand . Make sure to clean out the oil screen too . Most use 750mls or close to 3/4 a quart . GY6 types you remove the dipstick , wipe it clean and push it in but do not screw it in . My Echarm however the dipstick should be screwed in according to my dealer during the PDI
I have seen a few ruin their scooter and car by not changing the oil as suggested or letting it get low which is very bad . Oil is 5 bucks and up where an engine can be several hundred so its a easy decision on what to do
When I was young I had a Geo Metro which called for 10w30 , with having over 100,000 miles I tried 20w50 in the summer and it seemed to have less pep and not run as good . I changed it to 10w40 since of the miles and it was in the summer and it was a noticeable improvement .
I use Castrol Synblend 10w40 these days and Mobil1 10w40 in the Echarm gears and Mobil 1 80w90 in my 2Ts gears
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 22, 2013 22:18:53 GMT -5
If you are wanting a still shot camera and have the money a Canon Rebel SLR is awesome as it can use 35mm lenses and attachments . For video shots on a scooter the HD Go Pro is pretty good .
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 22, 2013 22:14:58 GMT -5
Normally bleeding the brake lines is a 2 man job , one pumps the lever or pedal in a car , the other mans the valve . I have seen those one man kits but never used one . I think Harbor Freight ( a store many of us love to buy tools and goodies from like me ) has one unsure of the price . Did you note on the top of the master cylinder which type of brake fluid your system uses ? Many use DOT 3 but my scooters use DOT 4 . The long hose from the valve back into the master cylinder is a great idea as long as it does not pop up and stays submerged in the fluid reservoir . When installing a master cylinder in a car you first bleed it by using return hoses then attach the lines and bleed the lines one at a time . On a car I was taught to go in this order , right rear , left rear , right front , and left front by my instructor .
I only use a 6 point wrench or a flare wrench on cars . 12 point wrenches and sockets seem to be more likely to slip than 6 point
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 22, 2013 13:35:57 GMT -5
Try a performance variator that has a larger diameter and steeper ramps . Perhaps an exhaust and airfilter mod will have more flow and be able to rev higher once rejetting as to not be lean with increased air flow
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 22, 2013 13:28:31 GMT -5
Interesting I drained water out of the bowl since I have a Uni and a storm blew off the cover . At first it was blue then it went clear , so I see what you mean by it separates . I only bought Lucas since I did not want a generic oil and had to get from an auto parts store as it was too far to risk to go to CycleGear or my scooter dealers shop to get oil . I first started with Maxxima synthetic blend then went to Motul 710 with ester which ran better but cost 17 a quart . Quart lasts me around 600 miles
We got the CDI figured out via cellphone as a 2T loos diff and not in the same location as a GY6
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 22, 2013 13:23:31 GMT -5
I got on of the last Echarm with EFI . Yes CFMoto dropped there 150cc scooter line up in favor of the 650c motorcycles . What had happened is they are such a better quality of scooters some shady people paid off the EPA to block a huge shipment of Echarm , Glory and Ejewel scooters from entering the US by saying they were not emission compliant when mine is to Euro2 standard for emissions . Mine was sold as new but was a 2010 instead of 2011 but has a killer 2 year warranty even electronics and is owner transferable . Honda only has a limited 1 year warranty for engine and drivetrain only .
Im over 15,000 miles with only oil changes a single valve adjustment at2,200 miles and still is a beast . Some other brands like Qlink used CFMoto engines where are stronger than the GY6 but does not have an aftermarket select of parts
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