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Make it says for 2 strokes and for injectors if you use the oil tank as some 2T oil is premix only . I use Maxima , Bel Ray and Motul brands . I have not used Amsol but Im told its very good . You should use a synthetic blend or full synthetic and avoid the cheap weedeater junk . Cheap oil smokes ( but is a good sign its getting oil ) and tends to get the plug fouled . When I was an early teen the I used the cheap oil and it would leave a com trail and get my sparkplug dirty after so long that I would have to clean it with carb cleaner spray . A trail riding buddy told me about synthetic 2T oil and the iridium NGK as I had only used the standard NGK and wow he was right there is a diff as it runs better , did not seem to get fouled and synthetic 2T oil mostly smokes a bit at startup when its cold with none or very little when the engine is warm

You can get brake dust cleaner which is a solvent spray that you can wipe off the dust with a rag rather than risk inhaling it while it is dry and is a severe health hazard if you did . If you spray it wipe it dry and allow it to further evaporate the cleaner off before putting it back together . Riding the brakes or holding down for a long duration will cause glazing . Long duration the pads and or shoes will melt a hair and glaze up . It is best to squeeze for a second or two them reapply and use the tranny drag to coast to a stop . Any autoparts store you can get brake grease packet for 99 cents to put on the sides but not the friction material or the drum . Glazed shoes will squeeze so will worn out shoes and pads since the have more clearance than new ones which allows for vibration that results in squeaks . Be easy on the rear drum lever as cables will stretch easy and will break from usage so make sure it is lubed with WD40 or even better white lithium grease sprayed with a can . The WL lasts longer than WD40 . Try to use more of the front brake since its hydraulic and has more stopping force . Most all have a disc brake on the front but a few had a cabled drum brake on the front . Never pull in the brake lever very fast to avoid a mishap should it lock up and slide or cause you to flip over . The safest way is to apply the rear brake just before using the front and pull it in slow but a lil firmly . My TaoTao it would squeak bad too in the rear but I mostly used the front brake . I have ridden so much and even practiced using just the front as well as just the rear to see how it would do in the event one of them went out . I had a 2T dirt bike I bought used that had no brakes and the throttle cable was broken so it had a pair of Vise Grips on it to pull the cable . Was an experience to ride even though it was not really fast and it had huge fat tires like that of an ATV . Unsure of even what brand it was as it was painted and duct taped , but still fun in the mud .

I really hate drum brakes since they do not stop any where as good as hydraulic discs , have to remove the pipe and wheel to service , where a disc you simply remove the caliper to install new pads . Both on my scooters have discs F&R which the Echarm being perfect and my Magnum beyond perfect as they are so good it can throw me off of the seat and even stress the tire like those of us who have ridden an offroad bike on pavement and geared down having the rear tire sort of do a mild burnout since it is stressed and going slower than the front . Knobbies are easy to do this as well as a burnout and drift on any decent offroad motorcycle .

Tonight I got to ride a buddies brand new TaoTao Thunder with a mere 16 miles on it . The front brake is ok but dang the rear feels more like caliper brakes on a ten speed bike with a weak bite but at least no squeaks . With practice , since not all brakes nor scooters are the same anyone can get used to using more of the front brake for stopping than the rear . Try to use the tranny drag to slow down rather than the brakes .

If you sand only go in the direction of rotation instead of zig zig . My X wife needed rear pads on her care but me working two jobs around 75 hours a week I did not have much time to sleep so I told her where to go . Well stupidly she went to a hole in the wall place instead . These goobers did not even change the rear pads but instead did the front . Most cars you can remove the rotor with ease one the caliper is off on FWD where RWD often has a huge nut to remove . Well her Honda had press on type which requires a slide hamer to R&R them . A slide hammer is a pole with a weight that slides back and forth on the pole and you bolt on one end to the rotor . If you tried hitting it with a hammer it would mushroom it and tear it up . Well these goobers were ether lazy or ignorant , may be both and the sanded the rotors by hand instead of removing and turning on a lathe to smooth it out . It sounded like I was in a tunnel with a loud roar and lacked the stopping ability it had before . So I asked for a window of time on 2nd job so I could take it back the shop and try not to go redneck angry . Showed him how the rear pads needed replacing which they did not touch and how the messed up the front rotors and damaged a wheel bearing . So the manager filed a damage claim and I took it to a trusted shop that only works on Hondas got new pads since those wore funny even with not many miles and had a new bearing installed and pads on the rear installed on their dime .

Sorry to have hijacked your thread but I wanted to share some of my wisdom and experience with the group

Here is my P light which only lights up when the KS is down

Scooter Elements is correct as LEDs are bright but they do not put out a beam like a bulb does . Compare a LED flashlight with one with a bulb . In total darkness the LED may be brighter but when your in an area that has some light but with shadows too the LED flashlight is not as good . Those who ad LEDs often replace the running lights or dash lights with brighter LEDs and some use LED blinkers which need a new relay or resistors so they will work . I did replace my taillight with LED for a 1157 bulb ( many cars use the same bulb in the tail lights ) and it does light up more . I have a red one instead of clear so the lens is great but the tag is not lit up that good but is visible .

I see great with the yellow bulbs as the blueish ones blind me and glare bad in the rain at night .

Since you said you replaced the bulbs I am guessing you have dual headlights like my Magnum does which has the same body as a Peace VIP , 35 watts and I have the LED tail light on this scooter . I am almost legally blind and I can see great at night in any condition since they both burn at the same time where some with two headlights 1 is hi the other is lo beam .

Is this a 50 or 150 ? You may want to look into upgrading your stator to one with more poles since they produce more wattage .

My Echarm has a single 35watt with two little " helper bulbs "on its sides . The helpers on widen the beam a hair . Now the light turns on with a turn of the key rather than when the engine starts , so it stays the same brightness at all times rather than go dim and bright with the change of the RPMs like most do . I can see pretty good with it unless Im way in the country with no street lights .

You may want to see if you can adjust the headlight assemble to raise or lower the path of the beam . Wait until it starts to get dark and have it running on the CS with it pointed towards a wall and adjust the screw accordingly

Have you checked for leaks around the intake ? Many have a Teflon intake that dry rot and crack causing leaks . It does not require as much power to spin the tire on the CS compared to going down the road . What size mm is the carb and the size of the jets ? Also check for leaks in the airtube from the air filter box to the carb . 135 PSI is great so its not a compression issue . Have you inspected the reeds under the intake ? What is the weight of your rollers ?

If your jetting is off it can be starving for fuel or flooding as well so its a trial and error testing of jets to fine tune it . Is the airfilter clean ?

Great color . Most I have seen where white or blue

Yes that is correct about the second base gasket . I had a TaoTao that cracked a piston and 6 weeks later it exploded . I was mad and joined the old website and was suggested the AirSal 50mm kit mentioned above . I went to my dealer and said I didnt want another kit and mentioned the Air Sal . Well it was fate as he just had gotten in two kits . It has way more power than the secret 63 . I used 5 gram rollers main jet the rest stock and it would zoom . The kit is designed to use the stock head which has a smaller combustion chamber than a 50mm head does so compression would be higher . I think MillSC tried it with a 50 or 52mm head as it would have better flow than a 40mm head with smaller valves