|
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 12, 2013 0:00:40 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip Glenn javascript:%20addSmiley("%20:D") I am amazed that they sell the 50mm Air Sal so cheap as it is really high quality product , much better than the average junk and cheaper than the expensive Italian goodies .
Have you used that reed valve kit ? After reading Teddys post where his stock metal ones broke and he had pieces get into the engine I have worried about mine doing this . I removed mine to inspect the reeds and they felt very flexible for metal . I am debating on replacing them with CF reeds since most intakes are for the forward facing carb but mine is rear facing or type 2 . The stock intake seems to be small as the 19mm TK needs an adapter since the venturi is larger than it . I know it restricts airflow as it was intended to be a moped instead of a screamer . I could not get a 100% answer if I could use a Hoca or Stage6 intake as it looks like it would bolt up and I have plenty of room to move the carb as its wider and shorter tubing than the stock one . I put Boyseen ( spelled wrong ) FG reeds in my Honda CR125 that I build myself when I was 16 and it made throttle more responsive as I used jets so large that it would bog or zing throwing many off of it . I set it up for racing not trail riding .
Do you still have those Minarelli gears ? If so they slide out after removing the oil and cover plate behind the clutch ? Then they would need to be pressed on the shaft ? I have tinkered with small engines since I was a pup but never have I done a gear swap . What is weird it has never been quick on initial takeoff , but midrange its a beast and with the racing pipe I can hit 9k RPMs up a steep hill with a running start as when I hit 50 MPH with the pipe vs stock one , its like it goes into under drive as I only give it just past idle of throttle or it will hit 10,500 , so not fun downhill since I can not push it . I try not to go over 9k RPMs since the previous build a wristpin came out while I was redlining it and destroyed the piston , head and cylinder . I tugged on them good and double checked before sliding the new cylinder all the way down . I prefer to ride not push . I put in 1.5k clutch springs and went from 5g rollers to 8g sliders as I figured it would help lower the RPMs at top end , but it only hurt takeoff and up hill from a deadstop with the same under drive effect . With 5g rollers I could let off of the throttle then hit WOT and with a lil pull pop and ride a wheelie for a few feet as the power peak 7,500 to 9,500 . Better reeds and larger intake should improve the flow and response . The MODCycle kit is a beast to be one of the cheaper priced kits .
I know what you mean as some great threads often do not get many replies where some get pages of em
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 11, 2013 23:00:40 GMT -5
If you got the CPU hot it may be cooked even though it can still work . I had a clients laptop that the vents were clogged with dust and dog hair . I cleaned it out and used some Artic Silver . It did help it but it was still not right . I bought an OEM chip and replaced it for 60 and it was almost new again . Leaving a laptop for a long duration will make it get hot and shorten its life . Use the power saving options so after so long it goes to sleep . Amazon has boocoos on cooling trays which is a vented tray with 2 or more fans powered by a USB port . I also use an aluminum stand that is vented on my workbench . Dell XPS and iBooks are like a heater and not really what I would want on my lap unless I was in Alaska . My netbook barely gets warm but with the 1.6 MHZ Atom CPU it is wimpy compared to a multicore modern one
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 7, 2013 23:14:26 GMT -5
Here is me going 50 MPH up a steep hill on my 2T Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 6, 2013 1:01:40 GMT -5
What was the stock gear set ? What weight did you use before and after the mod ? Same springs too ?
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 6, 2013 0:51:20 GMT -5
You have many moving parts so you will hear them move around instead it being silent . ALL two wheelers nuts , bolts and screws will get loose from vibrations and bumps so I like to go over mine every 2 months to keep everything snug . Roller variator weights do make a rattle sound which I thought was a crank bearing at first on my TaoTao but after listening on the CS with a stethoscope I could tell it was coming from the CVT instead of the engine . With more miles rollers will get flat spots from normal wear and make more rattle noise . I replaced my rollers at 5,500 in my Echarm with Dr Pulley sliders . They were still good with a hint of flat spots starting but after reading so many good things about sliders vs rollers I wanted to see for myself . I must say wow sliders are superior in every way ! Much quieter , last longer and perform better . I had 12g rollers and went with 12g sliders were sliders are often a gram less than rollers of the same weight . Takeoff was close to the same but man it had a much better power curve in acceleration and gained 5 MPH on top end . I replaced the belt 7,000 miles later with almost no wear on the sliders but variator guides had wear spots . Now at over 16k of miles it still a beast .
Maybe if you went 1 gram lighter in rollers it would ease the stress on the engine at take off . I have heard and seen where a weight or two came out of the variator and bounced around in the CVT casing
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 6, 2013 0:38:18 GMT -5
mwlehman wow hers out runs your Aprilia Is yours stock and in tune ? EFI or a carb ? MillSC had a custom ported big valve head with a unrestricted exhaust , UNI and gears which allows him to use the 150 carb where a stock head , exhaust and airbox it would to big and not have enough flow to get the most out of it . I had a TaoTao ATMa " secret 63 " and it would zip pretty good . I did go from 8 grams to 5 gram rollers since it is very hilly here as the area is called " The Fooothills " since I an below the Blue Ridge Mountains . I blew it up and got an Air Sal kit that I was suggested to right when I first joined the other site . I have had 40 or more two wheelers since I was 13 and I had the bug real bad and was sick of putting 80 a week in gas in a van . With the 50mm BBK I did use a 96 main jet with two washers to raise up the needle since no clip . Takeoff and uphill was a huge noticeable diff but top end was the same and I could do it with less throttle once it got up to speed . I sold it to a friend of a friend who had a scooter that he fried the engine . He was a new first time dad and needed a scooter to get to his two jobs . I let him take a test ride and he had the cash in his hand before he could stop . He was amazed at how much stronger my scooter was than his . So far only a belt break and I saw him a few months ago still riding it .I had a guy on Peace VIP 150 want to race me at a traffic light I walked off and left him on takeoff and it took him over a quarter of a mile to catch up and barely outrun me . I weigh 200lbs and he was maybe 130 . My Jonway Magnum which is 2T with Minarelli engine with the 68 main jet replaced with a 75 would do 45 all day and hit a 50 and 50 plus ( according to the speedo ) with 13s . The exhaust port is D shaped rather than O so it restricted the engine to maxing at 8k RPMS . Even with a the blue racing CDI same top end and rev limit but a better midrange with advanced timing . A lil head porting and up jetting Im sure it would easily do a GPSed 50 + . With a 47mm or 70cc BBK , upjet , Uni and HP pipe it now screams up to 10,500 , take off was less since the unrestricted pipe does build up back pressure , but midrange and top end are a hoot . It came with 6g rollers I tried 4g but they where too light and lost top end by 4 MPH or so so I mixed then to equal 5 and liked it . With the BBK at 50 MPH ( speedo ) and 9k RPMs I could let up then hit WOT and with a lil effort pop a wheelie for a few feet . I got 8g sliders to cut down on it screaming but it only slowed my take off even 1.5k clutch springs added at the same time with a Hoca BB torque spring base . I can hit 50 MPH up a very large steep hill with a running start hitting 9k . I can cruise from 8k to 9k with barely any throttle and its no fun down hill as it over revs . Weird its not geared low and has a fast takeoff like a buddies Elite which is quick at first to 20 then looses its ump . When mine was still a 50 I installed a Uni vent cover which is smaller than the big red air filter and went with a main jet and it was faster on takeoff , a hair louder with more air intake , way more power in midrange but still topped the same . What is funny and true is I broke the speedo cable on the 2nd day so when asked how fast it was I said " It only registers 50 MPH " but the cable broke . It broke when I was taking off rather than maxing it out . I will have to get a gear set once I do a teeth count as it is like Pac Man on the gas . Stock 50 it could do 40 up many hills with a running start . A buddy just bought a TaoTao Thunder which looks cool with modern designed body , LED strips around the two headlights , an arch of LEDs for the tail light and dual rear shocks where many are single . I got to ride it with only 16 miles on it and man it was sloooooow since it is stock out of the crate , where my scooter dealer makes a few mods like upjet , lighter rollers and a Gates belt . My Motobecane with pedals was faster except uphill since it had a single speed chain drive instead of a CVT . Tuning the CVT really helps improve performance . I rode it around and when I cracked the piston ( a hairline crack ) my ATM would still out run it and when mine was new I would do 15 to 20 MPH faster . My dealer said almost all of the TaoTao and Peace Sports out of the crate needed the valves adjusted as he said perhaps his should too as it is so wimpy it is not safe beyond the neighborhood . I told him about the Air Sal so soon we will get it to go faster . I had a Honda Elite 2T stock and it would hit 35 maybe 38 . I bought a rich kids Honda Spree that he wrecked the front end for a mere 100 bucks . He dad was mad since he yelled out he spent over 300 on it in upgrades in 1989 dollars . I replaced the broke forks and a new tire on the front , cleaned the airfilter , put in a NGK iridium , and changed the gear lube . I never did anything else but put in gas and and ride it . From a dead stop below a tall and steep hill I hit 35 MPH with me , a smaller buddy and his lil brother on it at the same time . I would bury the 50 MPH with ease and it was not screaming or anywhere as loud as my Magnum . I never had an issue and I rode it like I stole as any other 17 year old would . The Spree was also the very first scooter I ever rode . I was used to pedal mopeds , a Honda Express and an Urban Express and dirt and street motorcycles . I loved that scooter so much that I cried after I sold it . With only the two Honda scooters to use as a database and several brands of pedal mopeds I wanted a scooter to play around and ride short distances . Well I learned the China scooters are no where close to being as good as my Hondas with the TaoTao cracking the piston on the 2nd day and exploding 6 weeks later . I have never in my life had a piston problem or had any idea that it was a common bug in China scooters more so if modded and the jetting is lean . I bought the Magnum after selling my TaoTao as all of my 49cc street toys were 2T and I missed the peppy response and wang yang 2T exhaust sound . I loved how my Magnum has large 130/60/13s ( doughnuts ) which rode and handled eons better than the TaoTao with 10x3.5 tires . I was really impress that it has F&R disc brakes ( super rare on a 50 and many 150s ) with the rear having dual opposed pistons in the caliper instead of 2 side by side like on the front . I had my dealer follow me home in his truck to deliver it for me . I rode it around the block after filling up the oil tank . I liked it so much I rode it to another county around 22 miles away instead of taking my Echarm . I had so much fun that I saw the needle was on E and thought I could make it to a gas station in time since many are not 100% . Well it was and bzzzzzzzzzzz it ran out of gas . I was so happy from riding that it did not get me down and was a half mile push . Filled up and was smiling again . It has a street knobby so it has a lil bounce and reminds me of the old school minibikes . So stable I can ride with no hands even in a turn . The TaoTao has had me more nervous at top speed ( 55+ speedo ) than when I hit 160 MPH on a Hurricane 1000 ( later renamed CBR ) as the short tires and wheel base was fast to maneuver in turns but not stable . Modding is fun and with a lil effort you get more out of it . Modding extreme plan on parts breaking and wearing out as most use street not high end racing quality parts like the Italian goodies . If you buy everything under the Sun a small engine can only do so much . To me IMO a real scooter experience is on a 2T like the old Vespas with fat tires . The Echarms 16s feel like a cross over from scooter to a motorcycle and rides great up to a true 60 MPH where it starts to get sketchy and more so at 75 MPH where my Magnum is stable at any speed even in strong gales . If you want a hot rod 50 I would suggest get a 2T ( 2 stroke ) since they are faster , easier to tune and repair since less parts . They are almost all gone unless you can afford an Aprilia SR50 or find a used one to be a project
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 4, 2013 1:10:12 GMT -5
I fell silly I forgot my 2T has a low oil light too but its so tiny and I never pay it any attention as I keep the oil tank full
|
|
|
new bbk
by: skuttadawg - Jul 4, 2013 0:59:03 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 4, 2013 0:59:03 GMT -5
Air Sal is a great brand and I have heard several who have bought from RacingPlanetUSA and was happy . Now with a 2T BBK you will need to have a jet kit as they are more picky than a 4T . Many use an iron cylinder since it is cheaper and more forgiving in a soft seize where aluminum can damage the cylinder and not be reusable . This is a HP kit and you would want to get a HP full circle crank that is matched to it so it will have more compression over stock and be able to handle higher RPMS . Note the 2Ts , also called Minarelli and JOG can come in 10mm and 12mm wristpins so measure yours with a caliper before buying . To get the most of out that kit you will need a 19mm to a 21mm carb , as many have a 17.5mm or smaller carb stock . Exhaust plays a more important role in performance on a 2T and will require tuning the carb to work with it . I have a pipe from www.pmtuning.co.uk/ I bought used . Well first thing its loud in between a chainsaw and Yamaha YZ 80 . Take off was less since its unrestricted and does not build up back pressure on bottom end but the power band kicks in when the RPMs get up around 6k and I have hit 10,500 RPMs with peak around 9k . I had a wristpin come out and eat up the head , piston and cylinder which was iron . Aluminum parts are so soft you can scratch them with a finger nail , so be gentle handling them . I had a MODCycles 47mm BBK and I like it . I have been looking at Stage6 and Polini kits like here scootertuning.ca/en/26-cylinders . Here is another place that sells Air Sal kits www.mhr-usa.com/airsalI removed my body as a single part and after removing the fan shroud it was very simple to remove the stock and install the BBK . You will need ring pliers to get the wristpins in and I could get to one side but the other not so . I Installed a wristpin on the side with less clearance and made darn sure the clip was in snug . Should have an arrow on top of the piston and be pointed to the exhaust pipe . Cover the piston , rings and cylinder with plenty of 2T oil or engine assembly grease . Compress the rings by hand while making sure the ring gaps are in place and gently get it started in the cylinder . Do not force it in and it is a tight fit . Once the second ring ( street and sport are dual ring and racing a single ring ) I used a soft mallet and gave it a couple of tabs to get going down the studs . The head easily slides on and torque the 4 head nuts . At this point I installed the exhaust and gave it a test start up for a few seconds and revved it up a hair for 30 seconds . Recheck the head nuts then put the fan shroud back on . I have a 19mm TK carb that had a 40IJ and 68 main jet that I replaced with a 75 and a with small Uni when it was 49cc . With 47mm BBK , Uni and unrestricted exhaust a 120 works and a 105 was a lil lean . I run it rich since 2Ts are known for soft seizing after mods and the jetting is not perfect . Im ordering a jet kit since I want to go back with stock exhaust since it is too darn loud and has made my ears ring and go with airbox with holes drilled since I can not ride in the rain with a Uni . It started instantly but would stall while idling . A 45 idle jet and tada it idles perfect . With the 40 I had to give it a sip of throttle to start and with 45 no need to . You may want to try lighter or heavier weights than you had with the stock engine . I would for sure get a new belt since a BBK has more power and why risk it on a used belt ? I think RacingPlanetUSA sells a Stage6 replica pipe for around 150 but if you have the cash a LeoVince Hand Made 70 is a great pipe and not so loud . My scooter dealer has one on a Yamaha Zuma hot rod . Here is a great article on 2T exhaust 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/1391Start with a synthetic blend 2T oil like Maxxima that says its ok to use with injector unless you will be premixing . Depending on break in method you may go full synthetic next time or at the 3rd time you buy oil . Do not get Lucas 2T oil it sucks and does not stay mixed . Bel Ray is a great brand as I used it when I had motorcross bikes but I really like Motul 710 full synthetic but hate paying 17 a quart instead of 10 . For a sparkplug I use NGKBRP8HIX which is the iridium . Some use the 7 which is hotter temp , like I did but the 8 ran better for me
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 3, 2013 23:28:27 GMT -5
Could be a parking light . My Echarm has a red light with a P on it . If the kickstand is down and I turn the key the light will be lit and the starter disabled as a safety feature . Try that and see if it is the same for you . I have saw some Bennellis that had a light with a phone icon that would flash it a cellphone was getting a call and very close to it .
Did you get an owners manual ? Many only have a generic one instead specific for their model . What brand and model is your scooter ?
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 3, 2013 23:20:36 GMT -5
It gets vacuum from the intake to the pecocks diaphragm which acts like a fuel pump . What size engine a 50 or 150 ? What size carb and the idle and jet size ? Stock scooter is lean and if you removed the air box lid and let the carb alone it will bog so bad that you can not drive it . I played around ans tried this with 4T and a 2T 50 in my driveway just for kicks . Both started , was louder and would idle but I did not leave the driveway . Many drill 2 or 3 3/8 or so holes in the airbox to increase the airflow . I have also seen a scoot with 2 holes drilled into the muffler to increase the exhaust flow and was rejetted for the mods . With a less restrictive air filter like K&N screen or a Uni foam airfilter a larger main jet is required to make it run right . This involves trying a few diff sizes in order to fine tune it . Since yours runs good with the mod but not the airbox you would need to drill some holes or use a smaller main jet . When my 2T was a 50cc I went from a 68 to 75 main jet and it ran good . I bought a Uni vent cover which is much smaller than the big red air filter and upjetted to a MJ and it had more torque on takeoff and midrange , with more air being sucked in it was louder . Bought the normal Uni but my dealer did not have any jets for my carb larger than a nor did any other shop . Well impatiently I put in on and only went around the block as it idled ok but had some bog but it seemed like it was not enough to hinder it much . I went down the street and the darn thing soft seized and I had to push it home darn it . I later installed a 47mm BBK or 70cc , installed an unrestrictive exhaust and first tried the small Uni . It bogged like it was not getting enough air instead like it does if lean which is not enough fuel . I had also installed too large of a main jet and it would spit gas out of the carb . I swapped out for the red Uni and a smaller main jet and it was amazing how much better it was . It started up fine but sometimes it would stall while idling unless I hit the throttle a bit . I replaced the 40 idle jet with a 45 IJ and now it starts without having to give it a sip of throttle and idles with no stalls . Remove your sparkplug and compare the color with this chart to see how the jetting is with the mod before using the airbox stock or modded www.4secondsflat.com/plug_chart.html Use this info as a base to start on so you can compare a smaller jet or drill two holes . Jetting is a trial and error series of tests , so have a lil patience and enjoy it once its dialed in
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2013 23:31:29 GMT -5
I agree with you on having headlight(s) in the body rather than in the handle bar clip . I thought and still think its nice to be able to point the light , which can be handy at times , but man its an act of Congress to get to my headlight on my Echarm . I have to remove the mirrors and blinkers and the darn clip is brittle and I broke it in a few places with just a mild bump and a new one is 87 dollars . The other lights are just 2 screws and simple push and twist connectors , even with the two helper headlights but the main headlight has a funky clip that MacGyver would have trouble getting it back together . So far it has the 4th headlight in 22 months .
My 2T has a Handsome boy body like the VIPs with dual headlights in a cage . I looked at my scooter dealers CFMoto Glory and darned I should have gotten it since it has halogen bulbs in the body , gas cap up front instead of under the seat , wider 14s and a super cool LED dash . The Echarm has the radiator in the grill which I thought would get more air flow than the Glory which is at the bottom , fold able passenger pegs , taller seat and 16s instead of 14s so its like a crossover of a scooter and motorcycle . The 16s are not wide like many shorter tires are . I like to ride and feel of " doughnuts "
I had just talked about headlights in handlebars vs body with my dealer and he said those in the handlebars have way more bulbs go out than those in the body and require more steps to R&R them
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jun 30, 2013 21:32:04 GMT -5
Gas with ethanol goes bad in days so drain it and clean the jets by hand . Pour some Sea Foam in will also clean out the fuel system . Have you checked the valves ?
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jun 30, 2013 21:24:07 GMT -5
78 is small as I used a main jet with a 50mm BBK . Check the valves as they may be too tight . When they are too tight it may prevent starting and if tight but starts and stalls when it warms up is also a sign they need to be adjusted . Sounds like your having a lean misfire with a 78
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jun 30, 2013 21:04:50 GMT -5
You can port the head or opt for a 4 valve head and a high compression piston . I run 12g sliders in my 150 so maybe you can try a gram or two heavier slider . Allley is right a BBK makes more power but may yield the same speed . I went from a 63cc to a 82cc or 50mm BBK on my old scoot it took off faster and had more power uphill but had the same top end . Remove the clutch to get to the cover plate where the gears are . Count the teeth you have and you may opt for a taller final drive gear . They slide out but you need to go to a machine shop to get the new gears pressed together . With gear changes you most likely may need to try a gram lighter if takeoff and uphill is less . Getting the tires balanced really smooths out the ride . My Echarm has Ducatti EFI and wow the diff from a carb is amazing with instant response and starting , better MPG and more power . Check out www.ecotrons.com MBE also sells EFI kits plus crate engine like a LC Gy6 , a 180cc and a jugged and stroked Gy6 to a 236cc www.mbe-motorsports.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/20?osCsid=mrdg4avagrlnvn45ietov2omi7
|
|
|
Post by skuttadawg on Jun 30, 2013 1:50:11 GMT -5
My 2T came with a 68 MJ and I replaced it with a 75 and it was perfect . I installed a small Uni vent cover as an airfilter with a and it had more power . Tried the big red Uni and it bogged . It now has a 47mm BBK , Uni and racing pipe and I used a 120 but it sucked gas . Tried a 130 and it would spit gas out of the Uni and bog . I now have a 105 and it runs good but I want to test a 110 and 115 as a 2T is picky . Now I have a 19mm carb where many have a 17.5mm or smaller carb and do not need jets as large as that . With a 2T you always want to be a hair rich to be safe as if lean you are at risk of a soft seize as it will run hot and the piston expands and get stuck . A soft seize you may get lucky after it cools and you upjet but a bad seize will have you rebuilding the engine
|
|