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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 25, 2013 23:47:01 GMT -5
If your drivers license is not suspended or revoked simply get your MC permit , basic liability on a 150 is only 100 or so a year in SC . It cost me ten to register , 15 for the tax and 28 in property tax . At the DMV I first said I want to register my scooter and was told they did not do them . Their website says even mopeds should be registered but not enforced where 150 are . I rephrased it to " I want to register my motorcycle " and had no issues . I did the same method when I registered my 50 . I know there is some that ride a 50 because they lost their drivers license , but I hate how with a moped tag many stereotype us as a DUI offender , and moped law says 30 MPH is the limit . Well my 2T would do 45 stock . I did get some cager hate with a moped tag . I added it to my policy and put a MC tag on it and have not been bothered even by the police . I was zooming one night above the speed limit and 2 cops pulled up beside me , I knew I would get a speeding ticket , but instead the pointed and laughed since Im 6ft4 and was going that fast on a small scoot . Here in SC if you have no muffler , damaged body panels , a 12 pack in a milk crate , and no helmet you are profiled a DUI offender . With a helmet , other riding gear , quiet exhaust and a MC tag then your a scooter enthusiast .
I have seen many ride a 150 with a moped tag and remove the 1 on a 150 sticker to try and trick the cops . They have been cracking down on those with a moped tag that go over 30 MPH in nearby small towns and starting to do so in the county too . It is not worth getting your scooter impounded , going to jail ( SC no ins = jail with expensive bond ) and paying fines . I do not know why so many fret over the thought of getting a MC license . I got mine when I was 16 and took the driving test in light rain on a Suzuki GS550 , so a 150 would be even easier . In SC you can ride for 6 months on a MC permit with option to renew ( wimpy ) or take the test before it expires as I did . I had many years of moped and off road experience before I bought a street bike . I think some states may require a MC riding safety class , which is not a bad idea for noobs as well as veterans .
Yes riding a 50 cc WOT will wear out faster as you are pushing it to its limits , where a 150 should be able to hit 50 or better and cruise 45 with ease . A BBK you have a larger piston that makes more power so the engine does not have to work as hard . I had a " secret 63cc " and put on a 50mm or 82cc BBK and WOW takeoff and uphill were waaaaaay better . Top end was the same but without having to be at WOT after it reached it . I have yet to hear of cops having the engine taken down and checked to see if it is 50cc , but it may happen if you get caught going above moped speed restrictions . I heard today about a guy who got a 225 dollar ticket for going 38 MPH with not even a moped license . With a suspended DL you can get a moped license after passing the computer test . I got my moped license when I was 14 as it was only 3 months or so that just came out . No riding test required or at least back then . When I had mine a moped had to have bicycle pedals and was considered a " bicycle with a helper engine " . If the 49cc had pegs like a Honda Express or was a scooter it was a 49cc motorcycle . SC grayed the law to let 49cc scooters be a moped as long as the rider did not go over 30 MPH
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 25, 2013 23:20:08 GMT -5
I used Castrol at first then switched to Castrol Synblend after the break in . I did try the boric acid treatment with the Synblend as I was noid after reading where some used BA with a full synthetic and the starter clutch would slip and not be able to start . I saw on a buddies bronco that had a ticking which I thought was loose rocker arms or bad lifters , he was half a quart low and put in 3/4 of a quart since it used oil , and tada it stopping the ticking sound . I worked at Jiffy Lube when Castrol Syntec came out and even tested Slick50 . I noticed with Syntec in my car it was quieter and ran cooler . A trainee dry started a car after the oil was drained but not yet refilled . I yelled to him to shut it off . We filled it up and darn it was sounding bad . We drained some oil out added the whole quart of Slick50 and finished topping off the oil after checking the level and restarting up the engine . It did stop the noise but I still think Slick50 was a gimmick .
Is your Royal Purple full synthetic or blended ? I had a customer who came in every 1,000 miles only to get an oil filter change and had us pour in a quart of RP since the old oil filter had some oil in it . He did this for 2 years and never had the oil changed only the filter replaced and oil topped off .
Did you also clean the oil screen ?
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 25, 2013 22:59:24 GMT -5
Prodigit I hope you upjetted to with the extra flow to avoid being lean . A buddy of mine drilled 3 3/8 holes in the end of the muffler and 2 in the airbox and upjetted . It did sound more like a 4 stroke and performed better . I saw a video where a guy cut off the nozzle tip ( IMO many are too small ) , used a Uni bit to bore out the hole , gutted the baffling , rewelded it together along with a larger diameter short pipe to replace the stock tip . I have seen many stock exhausts crack , rust and rot . I think its crazy to spend 200 for a generic aftermarket exhaust for a 600 to 800 4T scoot , but Im sure many aftermarket exhausts are worth the money compared to stock .
On my 2T when I put on a BBK I also installed a Uni and racing pipe with no baffle . Dang its louder than a Yamaha YZ80 , lost takeoff power since it does not build up as much back pressure , but man the midrange and top end are amazing . Exhaust plays a more important factor in performance on a 2T than on a 4T .
Stock airbox do not choke the intake air flow as you would think . Drill one hole and maybe 1 or 2 more later after testing and upjetting . With a Uni or K&N you can not ride in the rain as water would get in the carb and large enough puddle splash could hydrolock the engine . The Uni you can hear it sucking in the air so it will be a lil louder too .
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 25, 2013 22:34:10 GMT -5
I am now about to hit 17,000 with only tires , 3 darn headlights ( grrr its a hassle to get the front clip off an on ) 1 running light and tail light replaced . I still have the stock pads on the front as I replaced the rear at 12k even though they had some meat left on em to be safe . I replace parts BEFORE they are worn all the way out . I can tell the Dr Pulley sliders have worn some as take off is faster and I top out at 70 instead of 75 now . I have a rev limiter in the ECU instead of having a CDI box like carb types do . I over filled the seat bucket with tools and stuff one night and cracked the underneath of the seat bottom . Well over time the crack has grown and it sags so I ordered a new seat and hated that it was 75 dollars . The engine runs perfect and is still a beast . I put in a NGK iridium plug before I left the dealership when I bought it and I wonder how much longer it will last . I must say I am very impressed with the engine and CVT as its all original except I replaced the rollers with DR P sliders around 5,5k miles and belt at 12k . The single 35w headlight is pretty darn good as its brighter than most and has a long beam on hi . The brakes are amazingly perfect as only the slightest touch and I stop quick and smooth . I do think the rear shocks are wimpy even on the firmest dampening setting . It has too much of the weight biased on the rear instead of on the front which can make it skeery when going over 60 at times even with me pushing down on feet with them on the further front on the floorboard . I raced an Eclipse from a red light yesterday and I outran him . I can jump to 50 in 5 seconds or less and cruise 50 to 60 all day long with ease . He was spinning the tires and missed 2nd gear LOL . I made it to my turn around 1,000 feet and he caught up with me as I had to slow down . I could hear the passenger yell to him " dang dude a moped whooped ya " LOL . CFMoto is a much better scooter than the majority of the China scoots . I really was sold on the 2 year unlimited mile FULL warranty as most around here are a limited 30 or  day , some 6 months and just a couple 1 year but not a full warranty just the engine . I would buy a CFMoto Glory in a heart beat since it has the same engine as mine , but it has halogen headlights , a super cool LED dash , gas cap in the front instead of under the seat , wider 14s as mine has 16s but not as wide and the headlight is in the body instead of on the handlebars . I figured I could point the beam with the Echarm and liked how the radiator was in the front grill as the Glory it is under neath main body section . My scooter dealer has a Glory that has custom built shocks , HID and LEDs , an injector for a 250cc , and the same 250cc " cherry bomb " muffler that I had . I put the stock back on as it is super quiet as the other was kinda loud . The CFMotos do not even have a kick start and have a 12 pole stator where most are 8 and some 11 pole . I really like having F&R disc brakes as cabled drums are wimpy , squeaky and more work to replace the shoes compared to rotor pads . Prodigit so you have never adjusted the valves at all ? My dealer said almost all are out of specs out of the crate and if they are good then surely will need adjusting at least once later on . Mine needed adjusting at 2,200 miles as it would stall just before stopping but fire right back up . My ATM the rear tire came off of the bead and it was firm and no sagging as I always give a gentle kick to see its firm and use a gauge here and there . My rear wheel was far from being a perfectly round circle and the valve stem leaked . It is a common thing on some stock stems to leak and just a few bucks to get a new one . I like the degree ones since its easier to get an air hose attached . Did some or all of the blinkers go out ? If some check the bulbs as its easy to burn out . If all get a short piece of wire to be a jumper behind the switch as it may be bad . If it passes that then perhaps the relay is bad . Very normal for wires to get loose and require a snug to keep a good connection . My ATM the front tire had such a knot in it I did not get a 1/4 from the lot before returning and making them replace the tire as it was unsafe to ride . My scooter dealer took his Glory to a local motorcycle shop with a dyno and it was just over 12HP at the rear wheel with a 13 to 1 fuel aspect ratio with the 250injector on a 150 engine |
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 21, 2013 1:29:59 GMT -5
You would be better off to get a 80cc BBK instead and also lighter roller weights . Unsure on your Aprilia but the Chinese scoots you can not simply bolt on a 125 or 150 engine on a scoot that came with a 50cc
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 21, 2013 0:54:55 GMT -5
Rollers wear as as do belts that get stretched
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 21, 2013 0:51:44 GMT -5
An impact driver ether air or electric is the best way to go . Harbor Freight has them cheaper than most places . I read where you could use a band wrench but its easy for it to slip . An impact takes less than a second to loosen and snug the nut as you can remove and install by hand with less risk of damage
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 21, 2013 0:30:31 GMT -5
BAMF first thing I would do is remove your roller weights and weigh them with a digital scale to have a starting base . My 4T " secret 63 " came with 8 grams but Im 200lbs and it is hilly here I went with 5 grams and wow take off and uphill were improved , top end was the same but the RPMs were higher . Unsure of the numbers since no tach . I think the redline is 8000 RPMs on a stock 139qmb but 7k is as far as you would want to go as above that will wear out parts faster and have more risk of blowing it up etc . Here is a link to a CVT tuning kit with several weights that you can try out a few combos and even mix up like 3 5g and 3 6 to equal 5.5g . Once you find a weight that works best get 1 gram heavier in sliders instead of rollers . I use Dr Pulley sliders in my scoots and I love em . Sliders are quieter , last waaaay longer , and perform better than rollers . On my 2T which was stock other than NGK iridium and went from 68 main jet to a 75 it would top out at 8k . I could rev it up higher on the center stand than 8k . Going downhill it could hit 9k but would fizzle and stall . I bought a blue finned racing CDI from PFS that my dealer had on hand . Yes it has advanced timing and no rev limit . Takeoff and midrange was a hair better but still topped at 8k . My dealer suggested I tried lighter weights . I removed then and noted that I did not have a restricted washer in the variator like some and that I had 6g . Tried 4g and it was too light as it sounded like it over revved on low end , lost 5 MPH on top end and still maxed at 8k . I mixed then up to equal 5g and liked it . I later bought a Uni vent cover not the big red air filter like I should have and also replaced the 75MJ with a . Wow it was a lil louder with the sound of the air being sucked in and midrange way better . I am lucky that my scoot came with a 19mm carb as many are 17.5 or smaller and a decent pipe with an expansion chamber . The expansion chamber is necessary for a 2T to develop power in the top end . Many come with only tubing and a muffler with no expansion chamber . The posts you read with people hitting high RPMs is because most have replaced the airbox with a Uni or K&N style air filter , and ether replaced the stock exhaust with a less or unrestricted one or drilled holes in the muffler . Both mods will require a larger main jet in the carb and adjusting the air/fuel screw . I bough the proper Uni but my dealer nor any of the several scooter and motorcycle shops had jets that would fit in my carb . So being impatient I decided to go around the block anyways . Will it had a slight bog but not like it was stalling and ( censored ) it soft seized on me . I tried to start it up after it cooled no luck . Pulled the engine apart and the rings were fried and the cylinder scarred . I put on a 47mm BBK 70cc , a racing pipe and I had a few larger jets to mess with . I first tried too large of jet and the small Uni it ran like crap . Put on the big red Uni was better but still flooding . I went down to a smaller MJ and tada it was beyond day and night better . With the Uni , pipe , CDI and upjetting I can now hit 10,500 RPMs . With the 5g rollers I could do 50 MPH ( according to the speedo ) let up then hit WOT and with a lil pull I would pop a wheelie for a few feet Here is a link to the CVT weight tuning kit enviromoto.ecrater.com/p/14177743/prima-roller-weight-kit-16-x-13 Here is a derestricting set of tips www.scootnfast.com/scooter/Tuning_mods/De-Restricting.htmThis is a tuning tip page www.provoscooter.com/tuning Listen to MillSC as his 50mm BBK is a beast after he had big valve head ported , after market exhaust and a whopping 24mm carb |
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 19, 2013 8:44:33 GMT -5
javascript:%20addSmiley("%20:D")
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 16, 2013 23:51:10 GMT -5
Yes but if you have FireFox go under the tools tab then Add ons and do a search there is several for YT that can did video or only audio in dif formats and compressions Like YT to mp3 . I have two since not all videos have the scripts to use em
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 16, 2013 23:15:34 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 12, 2013 21:44:37 GMT -5
Buying premium brand name of parts is always a great idea as they should be way better than OEM . I prefer sliders instead of roller weights and I have Dr Pulley sliders in both on my scooters . More important the the CVT parts is to get a Bando or Gates belt as the generic ones are not even close to being as durable or last as long .
A BBK and retuning can put out more power than the 49cc engine. It does not have to work as hard to go down the road with the extra ponies so it will last longer than one being pushed to or near its limitation over time
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 12, 2013 21:23:00 GMT -5
A computer monitor or tv with a VGA port may have you able to use your laptop if the screen is bad . Look on the left of the space bar ( most of the time ) for the FN key which is function and you press and hold it then press the F? ( varies ) key on the top row to use the external port . Changing a LCD is easy but be careful as the thin ribbon wires are fragile and break too easy . If its the mobo forget it as its hard to find and if you do it costs as much as buying a used or low end computer . If you have a custom computer shop in town see if they sell " whitebooks " which is a generic design that can use diff boards where all other laptops are so proprietary that only a HD or RAM can be swapped out similar models . I like ASUS computers as I have used ASUS parts in custom builds and repairs since 1997 with out a single product of that brand be bad or have problems later
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 12, 2013 21:10:30 GMT -5
Long case ? Set up for rear drum brakes ? If so do you think the drum can be removed ? I have saw a kit that has the cover plate for disc brake setup . How many miles are on it ? What is the compression PSI ? How was it running ? Original crank ?
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 12, 2013 0:02:35 GMT -5
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day , some 6 months and just a couple 1 year but not a full warranty just the engine . I would buy a CFMoto Glory in a heart beat since it has the same engine as mine , but it has halogen headlights , a super cool LED dash , gas cap in the front instead of under the seat , wider 14s as mine has 16s but not as wide and the headlight is in the body instead of on the handlebars . I figured I could point the beam with the Echarm and liked how the radiator was in the front grill as the Glory it is under neath main body section . My scooter dealer has a Glory that has custom built shocks , HID and LEDs , an injector for a 250cc , and the same 250cc " cherry bomb " muffler that I had . I put the stock back on as it is super quiet as the other was kinda loud . The CFMotos do not even have a kick start and have a 12 pole stator where most are 8 and some 11 pole . I really like having F&R disc brakes as cabled drums are wimpy , squeaky and more work to replace the shoes compared to rotor pads .