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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 10:52:40 GMT -5
did you get the idle and throttle cable slack figured out?
did you ever change the needle position? have you had it apart and seen where its at? which needle clip position. on the needle it should have different spots to put the clip on the needle. from top to bottom. like, 4 or 5. maybe 3.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 15:53:21 GMT -5
Bille is talking about the Valve cover bolts YOU DO NOT want them to stick they should come out easy and NOT be tighten so much just snug the valve cover has a rubber O-RING gasket going all around the valve cover to seal you do not want to squish the heck out of it and flatten out the O-Ring gasket permanently. Alleyoop rust makes them stick. sitting makes them stick. which is exactly what there doing right now. broke and sitting. spray something like LUBE on them to stop them from rusting and STICKING. then later wipe it off to remove them with DISHSOAP and water and then dry it off. before you go to work. OH then follow alleyoops directions on how to not break it after. and i guess go back to tuning and adjusting the idle again. |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 15:51:13 GMT -5
....
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 15:49:28 GMT -5
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 15:46:39 GMT -5
i said just spray it so they dont get rust onthem
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 13:45:46 GMT -5
get them bolts while their new. spray some lube on them and before workign, clean them with dish soap and dry. to keep rust from coming. thatll make them stick, make it harder to get them out.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 13:26:22 GMT -5
ya maybe the angles different get a side view of the ramps.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 2:30:55 GMT -5
i go by the black mark my belt leaves behind from riding on the top of the variator, where its at all the time. to tell mine.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 2:29:27 GMT -5
what pulls it apart, i dont know if you read my post about the belt, before i editted it. is, the width of the belt. if the belt cant bottom out then maybe a skinnier belt at around the same length, and use the same v- angle. woudl work. to max it out.
waht i was sayign let me summ arize all that. try a big downhill. heavy up your weights. then drop down that hill. since you cant tell what at what rpms or speed or mph you need to shift at, to get the best running transmission. so cheat on everything. mark ure variator, heavy the weights up some. depending on what biek you got, 50cc 150cc. 250cc. so many or whatever however many grams. and use that hill to see if your maxxing out your variator then. if its not maxing on the variator, then the belt, if its not fitting like a globve may, bottom out, in the rear driven pulley. then not pull any farther up the front, drive pulley, cause it can't.
but get the right belt. then if it wont max, then theres something else going on. if its a, lemon, or stock restricted like my scooter. .. better hope they dont figure that one out. what solved that for me, is an aftermarket variator. since it is the deciding thing in how far your belt will give you more speed, as the cvt shifts.
so. front drive face decides how far you shift. thast how i figured out i had a variator restriction built into, my stock variator on my bike. i found out what it is too. another thing that helps to shift up higher, dr pulley sliders. but use them on an aftermarket variator. when you find out what is keeping your scooter from shifting up. if your belt is slammed, down in hte back, and doesnt fit on likee a glove. if its, real tight like extra tight. and theres a bigger betl. try it. but also, cheap belts can have slackin them. try some good anmed belt. how do you know the right size? if others have brand new ones. and they came with one that fit, like a glove. and measured it before they rode it. thatll give you the measurement. of thelength. outside. the actual number they give you, is the inside measurement of the length. what keeps them in the oem spec or measurements for the belts, like a 669 or 842 or whatever measurements they are, is a good brand, .. thats about all. or luck. so even an 832 or a 842, say you get one smaller and if its got slack, then it might be closer to an 842. or whatever. these are just nubmers im throwing out there. i dont know what im saying.
mrp speed is a good company i think on making belts. close to oem specs. you want tight but you dont want overtight.
i believe this guys deal might be his belt could be a smaller belt than it needs. or maybe its some to light rollers. maybe its a factory restriction, hidden. if you cant get it to shift down by checking the front, yuou should use heavier rollers, and a big hill. that wont work or u cant do it, use a marker and measure if itll stay on there. on the bottom of the rear pulleys, halves. if your light on roller weights too. itll sound like your overrevving. maybe thats it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 1:55:16 GMT -5
make sure your not burning out the new starter by grounding the ground wire at the right spot. mine ground to a starter bolt screw. but mines not a ayamah.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 1:45:26 GMT -5
my point is, use the right belt. you dont have to worry since the transmissions are not adjustable.
just try some heavier roller weights. you can kind of tell when the variator shifts. if its too early and it seems like 2nd gear at 5mph in your car, then youll know. and lighten them. thats when you lighten. take that witha grain of salt. if yoru bike wont poull and you iknow your in 2nd and it hapenned too early. oh say 10-20-25 or maybe around 30mph or something. ive seen most of these bikes shift around maybe a 30 or 35mph at stock. its hard to tell like on my bike, unless you derestrict the stock restriction. really. besides the usual things theres a built in restriction. but to see the top of the marker get hit. put in heavy weights. just take it extreme on the cvt. yuoull find out. put heavy, and take it down an extreme downhill. to get th etop speed youll get. you mighgt have to push it back up or go 5mph but.. and then check your sharpie marker mark.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 0:54:16 GMT -5
geh. you didnt even listen to me did you? you cant measure and find out how far the belt is going to go down in the pulley.
heres a few questions. answer those for me.
why would he want to do that?
i can see why in the front. but i cant really see why, though. as seeing the belt isnt adjustable and theres no adjustments to it. it can only perform as engineered.
there is no adjustability to it. it only performs as engineered to do. the better engineering and specs kept up to, the better it will run.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 0:26:06 GMT -5
SO I READ THIS TOPIC AS I .. did.
You guys must i dont get it. im getting a laugh about how you where actually carrying this conversation on with this guy. ? then getting jokes about me. ahahahah OH MYYYY GOD.
so. i think the belt should FIT LIKE A GLOVE FOR BEST performance.
so your question is answerd but oh no these 2 guys gotta go on. and on. and on and on and on.
lets drop it. you can have this conversation if you want. I dont want to be nothign part of it. if thats understood by you guys. becuase i believe yoru wasting your life.
Understand some BASIC MATH. principles. go find a math book. its them ones labelled, hard.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 0:22:53 GMT -5
the rear circle the belt spins around being smaller would be a smaller circle and it is connected to the tire. and less to spin would be more engine speed if the ENGINE IS CONNECTED TO THE REAR.
so you have to actually CONNECT IT WITH A BELT. so you CAN NEVER CONNECT IT. just by measuring.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 6, 2014 0:21:47 GMT -5
your the ones with the lets talk about how far down lets pull the belt down like you reach down with your hand to do it. as your riding down the road to get yourself some more smaller circle in the back for the belt to spin around. thats an impossible question. becuase. now.
alright.
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