|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 5, 2014 18:58:59 GMT -5
like a glove. since their is no adjustment on these thigns. the belts just hav to be made good. you need a good brand. anything chinese, usually has slack. theres 3 measuremnets on them. length, width and degree of v belt angle. usually a chinese belt will be sloppyin length and worn out in width. an old belt, will get slack in it, in length, around the belt. and the width from it wearing in between the pulleys will grind down and shrink the width. like 669-18-30. 669 is the inside actual length measurement. width is 18mm and 30degrees of angle is the v-belt, angle. degree. oem specs usualy say when an 18mm wide belt is down to 17mm wide, its out of spec. which means it probably wont hit hte driven pulley and the front drive puley right. they call it a pulley cause its just like a pulley. you take yoru variator face, and yoru kicker ramp face, and their, a pulley. they move back and forth so its a variable. continously variable transmission.
make your belt fit like a glove when you install it. it shouldnt need shoved down in the back. i find that breaks stuff. it should fit over, like a glove. thats the right amount of belt tightness. a pair of gloves.
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 4, 2014 12:39:51 GMT -5
mean, case dust. say you worn your belt around 6 months. that looks like normal black dust in hte cvt to me. if its running, liike that and leaving those black marks its probablyu wearing, quicker. is all im saying. and leaving around 6 months to a year worth of dust in the cvt cover in 3 months. er
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 4, 2014 0:21:35 GMT -5
it didnt wear down to an 11mm width without breaking. if it happenned that quick it would of overheated and broke. or its just such a bad belt, that it wouldnt of made it for 2 months. 7 mm of wear in 2 months. have you ever openned your cvt? after a year? that looks like normal black marks for something rubbing but running on a cvt. running on the bottom or something. having some sort of other problem. the spot its running, showing by the picture and teh black marks. shows hes running in the middle. id ont think the bike would of kept running if it was actually a belt of that size. and it was being ran like that. liek thats where it runs. its also sloppy in the picture. that means it spins to the farthest spot it can on the variator while pulling back, and runs from there. the black spot on the ramps he shown. where the belt drops down in it. its probbably a broken contra spring. somethigns broke. if the contra spring was working it would break it.
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 3, 2014 21:20:31 GMT -5
if you dont clean it, it might actually drop and the bobber not fall.
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 3, 2014 21:20:05 GMT -5
clean whatever the bobber thigns rides on with some alcohol take it out before you do it, so it doesnt get stuck again.
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 3, 2014 10:14:25 GMT -5
the reason i put the direction in which you measure the belt, is cause i was thinking he measured, the thickness. of being 11mm. i cant see a belt wearing off 1/3 of it and not actually ripping first. thats lots of cloth to go through. think he has another problem. thats my opinion, only. like the contra spring in the back maybe broke? it would also not shift right, wouldnt start off in first.
the wear looks like its barely moving up on the variator. like staying in the center leavintg the middle open, to get some corrosion. use a little light sandpaper to fix it up so it dont eat up the belt. and if the back spring isnt workign the belt wont drop in the variator in the front all the way.
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 3, 2014 0:32:05 GMT -5
 11 will pry off of 8 with a flathead screwdriver maybe tack around it, and maybe hit it a little with a hammer. they'll be 3 pins that go in around the torque plate they call it, part number 8. that guides it on the driven pulley. the toehr things are o-rings and oil seal gaskets. |
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 3, 2014 0:24:10 GMT -5
if he took pictures and showed the belt like that. itd make you wonder. the marks being up so high, kind of shows, either a belt worn out width or with lots of slack. the marks on his kicker ramp plate and variator. looks like what it would be having black belt marks, with a belt that worn running.
the up down width isnt really measured so much. when finding belts. the width, left to right, like the width of the belt. thinking of it as a belt. like you, wrap around your waist. and the length, then the v angle. of the v-belt. like in degrees. 669 is inner length measured actually, 18 is width side to side, and 30 is the degree of the angle of the V.
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 3, 2014 0:20:47 GMT -5
china makes copies of those belts. and tehy come from china. my chinese scooters belt, lasted like 2200 miles. it was even worse quality than. other name brand made in china.
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 2, 2014 19:19:39 GMT -5
you havent had that scooter for long. that belt looks way low in the back. it should be riding at the top. are you the first person to buy this scooter? because it looks maybe like your contra spring is wore out and the belt is falling down into teh drive pulleys. and a real bando belt doesnt look like that. at least accordign to this guy who ahs accress to japanese parts in taiwan. the autotech355 guy. ive bought a bunch of stuff from him and its never junk. even the taiwan stuff, running an italian big bore 2-stroke kit on my scooter with a crank from him. heres a pic of another bando belt. my stock bando doesnt have vs on it. and this  is a copy. the other one i linked to  is a real one. notice it has green. and notice it says on the side, made in japan. a stock one is black, like oem but says honda or soemthing on it. and doesnt say vs on it. thats a chinese copy. and my gates i bought lasted me 3500 miles on a stock motor before the side started to rip and it would of broke pretty soon. my stock oem belt i bought has been on my italian big bore kit, for 3500 miles and is still in ok shape. bando belt |
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 2, 2014 15:31:46 GMT -5
yea wait on that gasket. you need to wait for the engine to be cold. takes around 24 hours. thats what everybody always said. if you didnt wait but until it cooled down enough, then you might have extra tight valves. cuase cold shrinks up stuff. or maybe loose.
maybe you can find a crush gasket at a local motorcycle shop, or something.
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 2, 2014 10:39:22 GMT -5
also, lower your idle adjustment screw all the way until the idle goes to the stop. and then make sure from there, that you have play in yoru cable. if your using hte idle stop screw, to raise the rpms then check your throttle play there, then youll have the throttle raised higher.
like, 0 is say the throttle cable was disconnected. the idle adjustemnet screw, was turned to lower the rpms. until it bottomed, out. if you know what i mean. the whatever, the throttle cable, nub, is attached to. hits whatever stops it from going down anymore. if its tabs, or the throttle stop in the middle of the carburetor, or a flap. make sure it hits the bottom. use the idle adjust screw to bottom it out. if its attached to a tab, or somethign thats not the actual thign getting in the way of the airflow, make sure that theres nothing, bent. or anything. like the tabs. someone has pulled out on it. or something. or pulled in. pushed. thats what to worry about. if it looks bent, i guess get a picture. then when you reattach the throttle, cable, at this part. make sure its attached right, at the handle, that there should be a lining up nub, on the 2 pieces of metal that line the throttle assembly on teh handlebar. its lined up. the throttle handle, is going on right, yoru throttle cable is attached right. then run it to the carb. and attach it. from there. when you attach it to the carburetor wherever you attach it to. you should have a 1/8 of an inch of slack or a 1/16th inch of slack, in your throttle handle. when you pull it back. it should pull up slack, before it starts pulling the spring that is attached to your tab or slide, or butterfly, that pulls out of the way of the airflow, of the carb, or.. in the case of the tab, whatever its attached to, pulls out of the way of the carb's airflow. youve seen a butterfly in a carb before right? like, a choke, or a gas thing, like in a car. the flap. that when its no gas its closed and no air flow.
then. you adjust your idle, and your mixture. from there.
if you have the carburetor adjusted with the idle high, with the screw turned like in. and the bikes not set for idle. your trying to adjust idle with the throttle pulled up, by the idle adjust screw, at say, 1/16 throttle. 1/8 or something.,
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 2, 2014 9:35:53 GMT -5
did you do the valve adjustment with the engine cold? 24 hours wait.
|
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 2, 2014 0:13:17 GMT -5
hes got a 2-stroke. im not getting an error when i click on that link. www.ebay.com/itm/331137628394thats a eton beamer 3. not sure that bbk is for a beamer. eton. fix that exhaust thoguh not the right backpressure and youll blow the piston. myabe just stick with some small big bore kit. 66cc if the exhaust is decent. get the head with it. or just do some cvt upgrades. that eton is like, i think the same motor as a yamaha jog. you could try to do the repair and get the right half engine case. you could get a bike shop to do it. or someone you know. or do it yourself. with no special tools. thats how i do it. flywheel puller. an impact wrench to remove your variator. dont need to take the whole motor apart. just the right side pull it off. maybe find a used right side on ebay. but find out what motor it is. if theres an engine code. |
|
|
|
Post by rexxk on Jun 1, 2014 23:52:13 GMT -5
get your exhuast back on there. if its not got good backpressure. what happenned to it? itll burn up your motor. just stick with variator upgrade. and maintanence. new belt. get a good brand. dont buy out of china. make sure its not a chinese copy of a good brand belt. powergates are sloppy now too. you can get your belt from a yamaha dealer, i think. find an oem site
|
|
