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Post by T150 on Sept 23, 2013 22:55:54 GMT -5
I have the one from that connects to a battery also, but i always use my truck batt because i don't want to drain my scooter battery.
If you are just changing the cvt belt you don't need an impact... just compress the outer clutch plate so the belt can drop down lower into the clutch, then carefully rotate and move the belt over the variator... that's how i change my belt.
hope that helps ;D
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Post by T150 on Sept 12, 2013 17:00:19 GMT -5
[replyingto=chanoarg]chanoarg[/replyingto]Yes you should replace the gaskets. You can get the engine number from under the cvt area and find gasket kit for it. Do some research on which kit you need. Yes replace the gasket for the exhaust. It is not fun after waiting for parts, then realizing they are wrong. It helps to take it apart, measure, then order parts.
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Post by T150 on Sept 10, 2013 15:43:43 GMT -5
Might be a balance issue. U could take the rim to a motorcycle shop to balance it.
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Post by T150 on Sept 6, 2013 13:20:13 GMT -5
Yes chain is tight. I installed it, rotated several times til it reached the tdc mark, then i installed the cam and tensioner.
I am concernedit could be a bad oil pump, or possibly bad bearing on camshaft.
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Post by T150 on Sept 5, 2013 23:33:00 GMT -5
I am wondering if anyone has dealt with a chain wear issue?
I rebuilt my scooter because it was making a constant noise, that constant noise is gone now because i changed crankshaft.
I had an issue prior to the rebuild that also was chain wear noise. When i did the rebuild i found wear on rocker arm case near chain and on the crankshaft bearing... that noise is back!
I did change chain tensioner and thought the problem had been fixed. Is it possible the oil pump is not functioning correctly, and not enough oil pressure is around the chain?
The noise is like a belt slap noise and it is only when i accelerate hard on the throttle, when it is not under heavy load the is little to no noise.
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Post by T150 on Aug 29, 2013 11:24:00 GMT -5
Wilds- good point. I will switch the fasteners and use a little jb weld to make sure it stays put. Thanks
Sailracer- glad u like it. I had a round uni previously and it began to fall apart. It is also not good if you get caught in the rain with the round uni... luckily it only happened to me once. That is why i was inspired to attempt a new setup. I also noticed when I had traveled to italy that they all had stock air boxes and the reason could be because they ride in all seasons.
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Post by T150 on Aug 29, 2013 2:29:05 GMT -5
If you are putting the carb back on and not tightening it, then yes it would not have a proper seal. You would be able to start it but would have running issues.
If it doesn't start you probably forgot to connect something. It can take a few tries to start it after removing carb, because it needs to fill with gas.
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Post by T150 on Aug 29, 2013 1:14:04 GMT -5
Wilds- you have a very good point. I thought about that and figured that if I reverse the setup...the fasteners could get sucked up.
I may put a small screen over the intake hole to prevent issues...I have it from the stock filter setup.
The other possible solution is to put bolts with lock washers.
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Post by T150 on Aug 29, 2013 0:45:37 GMT -5
This is where i was inspired... but wanted to do it for less money. I already had the metal from another project, so it only cost about $12 for the uni filter sheet, and i have lots left over for a future improvement on this setup. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CSI2YTW/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
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Post by T150 on Aug 29, 2013 0:33:33 GMT -5
So this would be my version of a cold air intake that would do better in the rain than a round uni. This is definately not a cold air intake, but hopefully a way to maximize air flow on the stock box. Here is my second attempt at the custom uni in my stock air box. My first attempt involved a broken filter element from attempting to use a staple gun on my plastic filter. I made a metal version of the filter element. The inside view- I used the metal backing from the original filter and attached it with fasteners. I cut the two holes like bluefront did in the previous link. I like the setup so far...it is quieter than a round uni filter but still has a slightly deeper tone than stock. I will test it for a few hundred miles and see how the spark plug looks. My first plug read was not rich... but it was only after a few short rides. Happy modding!
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Post by T150 on Aug 27, 2013 20:09:04 GMT -5
What was the original size main jet?
Have you changed the exhaust?
Look at your spark plug and see if it is wet or dry black. If it is either, then it is probably too rich.
The idle could probably be adjusted by just the a/f screw. When i re-jetted my 150cc I also changed the cdi to get a better spark from it.
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Post by T150 on Aug 19, 2013 0:16:01 GMT -5
Do you have 16" wheels?
Because the one i have has only 2 bolts on the valve cover. There are not many options for upgrades on my scoot.
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Post by T150 on Aug 13, 2013 0:25:02 GMT -5
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Post by T150 on Aug 9, 2013 23:45:23 GMT -5
Hello everyone,
I just wanted to say thanks for the info. I ordered the gaskets from bms because i knew they would be correct. I installed them and no more leak.
So don't make my mistake and try to reuse the metal head gasket...it won't seal.
Everything is running great after my rebuild!
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Post by T150 on Aug 9, 2013 23:32:52 GMT -5
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