|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 7, 2015 14:19:34 GMT -5
The proper way to jet without an O2 sensor is by doing plug chops. Your goal is a nice chocolate brown to coffee brown color. White is too lean, dark brown to black is too rich. You go on a WOT ride for at least a couple of minutes, then pull over and look at your spark plug. If it's too white, you begin by adjusting the air/fuel mixture and needle. If you get to the point the needle has been adjusted as far as it can (or has three washers added as spacers), it's time to go up in jet size. Put in the new jet, and put the needle back to the middle position, then follow the carb tuning procedures, then go for another WOT ride, and check your plug. It's best to do each plug test with a new spark plug, but that is only necessary if you started from a too rich setting and the spark plug is already dark brown or black. Here is a chart you can use to compare colors, NOTE - DO NOT ACCEPT ANY OF THE "LEAN BUT OK" COLORS, GO FOR LIGHT BROWN ONLY:  |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 6, 2015 23:42:17 GMT -5
Final update- I received my title from the state of Nevada in the mail today! My new SSR is fully insured, and licensed, and officially titled in my name, can't seem to wipe this silly grin off my face!  Power Ride Outlet came through for me on this purchase from start to finish, they get my recommendation! |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 6, 2015 20:53:17 GMT -5
Update - My sister will not let my nephew wrench on his new scooter so long as it is under warranty. Last week, he started having a few problems: 1- gas gauge not working, 2- horn not working, 3- electric start not working (screeching), 4- time for first oil change. He called up A2Z and told them what was happening, and that he didn't have any money for repairs or an oil change. They said bring it in, and that the first oil change was free. He took it in, dropped it off, went to have lunch, came back an hour and a half later, and his scooter was all fixed and oil changed at no charge. The starter screeching was due to the variator fan being broken (not sure what could have caused that), the gas gauge because the float was stuck, and the horn had a connector fall off.
So, A2Z not only worked with us through several purchases giving us great prices, they also have stood behind their product with excellent service after the sale. I highly recommend them to everyone I meet in Vegas who is looking into purchasing a scooter!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 6, 2015 20:44:23 GMT -5
I'm just going to say one more thing and then ignore this thread, your carb is NOT the reason you cannot reach high RPMs, that's a combination of your CVT weights, clutch springs, and final drive gears.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 6, 2015 15:41:48 GMT -5
It runs! I rode it to town and back yesterday. I had to adjust the air/fuel screw a bit more to get it to run with a load (read: my fat a... er, rear), but it is indeed running. Now I can move on to the improvements. Are de-restriction of the CVT/exhaust (I checked the carb already) and removal of the EGR/PAIR (I think I have both...) be advised? Absolutely, check the tech section here, alleyoop has info on all the emissions stuff you can remove. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 6, 2015 15:32:41 GMT -5
While I agree with everyone who states your best course of action is to be polite to police, follow their orders, and never run away, that does not mean if you do not do one of those things you should be beaten. A beating is punishment, and the police do not have the authority to punish, that's what the courts and prison system are for. How many times have you seen an episode of COPS where they have just taken a suspect to the ground, and immediately are yelling at them to stop resisting? Cops are trained like the military to follow orders instantly, it saves their lives. Civilians are taught the exact opposite, to question everything in order to make an informed decision, and are not prepared to instantly respond to an officer's orders. The break-down in the system occurs when police take these moments of hesitation in responding to their orders and react violently to the situation. Until there is some form of humane immobilization, we will continue to see civilian's mistreated in order to "protect" those who are supposed to be protecting us!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 6, 2015 15:22:14 GMT -5
No, Jerry, not cleared up (despite experts insisting we are stupid and should just do as we are told, w/o explanation). WHY is it a properly jetted larger carb is worse. The only explanation so far is that the vacuum in the venturi is lower (correct) :: and the result of this is less fuel sucked up into the airstream (and thus a lean mixture). That, however, simply means the larger carb has not been properly jetted. A larger main jet will produce a correct a/f mixture (accounting for the lower vacuum). So then - why is a PROPERLY JETTED LARGER CARB not at least as good as a properly jetted smaller carb? It's a passive device, not a turbo. It simply tries to supply what the engine demands. A larger carb may not be BETTER (if the smaller carb fully satisfies what the engine demands) .... but why is a properly jetted larger carb EVER going to be worse? Unfortunately, as this article explains, I cannot give you hard numbers that will apply to every situation in order to explain it. Hopefully this article puts it into terms everyone can understand. (note- this is written about cars, but applies to all carb based engines) www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/selecting-right-carb/GY6 are not designed to be run at high RPMs for a long time, proper CVT tuning should keep your RPMs in the 3-5k range most of the time, nor do they have high enough compression to require extra large carbs. That being said, if you have modified your GY6 and/or the final drive gears, you may have use for a larger carb, but not necessarily! |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 6, 2015 9:32:43 GMT -5
Day in day out, I ride 10-20 miles, including work and errands. Many days I ride over 40 miles if I have to cross the valley, Vegas is a larger city than many people realize, and on weekends I sometimes put in close to 100 on a good riding day.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 6, 2015 9:28:45 GMT -5
30 didn't work, 28 did, bigger is not always better. Have we finally cleared that up?  |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 6, 2015 0:42:15 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 5, 2015 22:10:53 GMT -5
Yes, please post pics or a vid, I'm a bit confused as to the issue you're having. Those supports should be installed with the mirrors loose so you can get everything in position, then hold them in place as you tighten the mirrors down on top of them. I positioned them to force the windshield into a slight curve for more stability, ended up with just enough meat on the bolt exposed to tighten them down almost flush with the end of the bolt shaft. If you don't have any meat showing to put the nut on, you can hacksaw a bit of the support off.  |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 5, 2015 21:59:28 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 5, 2015 21:49:48 GMT -5
I doubt that any state posts a sign at every entrance to every freeway etc. Meaning the absence of a sign at my chosen on-ramp does not necessarily make it legal to drive a "lesser vehicle" on that freeway. If I had a "lesser vehicle," I would probably call the DOT and confirm if a highway I want to drive on is restricted or not. Of course, the presence of a bike lane pretty much frees you from the restriction. So drive on, javarod! >'Kat Actually the law is quite clear on this in most states, it is usually written in the code that the restrictions only apply where posted, and that does require signage at every on-ramp. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 5, 2015 21:47:58 GMT -5
I doubt that any state posts a sign at every entrance to every freeway etc. Meaning the absence of a sign at my chosen on-ramp does not necessarily make it legal to drive a "lesser vehicle" on that freeway. If I had a "lesser vehicle," I would probably call the DOT and confirm if a highway I want to drive on is restricted or not. Of course, the presence of a bike lane pretty much frees you from the restriction. So drive on, javarod! >'Kat I almost think it'd be interesting to wind up in court over me using the freeway even for that short hop. Is the state required to allow me to move around the state on the vehicle i choose? River crossings are few and far between here, in fact if you look at a map of St Louis you can see how there used to be one Mississippi crossing, the Poplar Street Bridge, the entire grid radiates out from it, it existed before the interstates and until recently it carried interstates 44, 55, 64 and 70 (which just got a new bridge to the north). There are a few small bridges to get into IL from STL at least, but forget about leaving the county. The state is required by federal law not to restrict your movement between states, what happens inside the state depends upon that state's constitution and laws. One thing that trumps it all is that driving is a privilege, not a right. The other thing to keep in mind is that the courts will always side with the government on issues of public safety, that is why it is illegal to ride a bicycle or walk on the side of the interstate, other than to walk to the nearest exit if your vehicle breaks down. I have had my new 150cc on the freeway twice so far, and I haven't had any trouble keeping up with traffic in the right lane. I have still not pushed her to her top speed, just over 250 miles so just at the end of break-in period. I have a ride with some friends coming up soon, one has a chinese 250 and the other has a Yamaha TMax, (550?) so they may be a challenge to keep up with. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 5, 2015 21:25:08 GMT -5
Yup,,sometimes the tensioner will get hung up,,you have to make sure it snaps/springs back into place...you have to turn the middle screw CCW until the spring is fully tensioned,,then install,,then make sure that sucker un-spools CW too put tension on the chain...I think it was CCW not 100% sure..might be bass ackwards on that one..lol The cam chain tensioner is not the same on a 50cc as it is on a 150cc. You don't have a screw to turn to release it on a 50cc, you have a bolt that comes out with a spring around it. There is a tab on the side of the tensioner probe that you squeeze and press it up, install it, then put the spring and bolt back down into the center. If you don't squeeze that tab and push the probe back up (retract it), then you will have too much tension. |
|
