|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 5, 2015 21:16:04 GMT -5
I'm assuming the issue is with the little plastic wrap around pieces that bolt the windshield to the support bars? If so, I replaced those with metal plumber's tape, haven't had a single issue. I did get lucky and got two plastic windshields which I mounted together giving me more strength, but I have also seen a couple of them around town with only the one piece of plastic, and they appeared to work fine. As for Scrappy, they are not the only parts dealer selling these universal windshields, they are all over ebay as well. I have been purchasing most of my scooter parts from Scrappy for the past two years, and they have been professional with each transaction. I have purchased heads, variators, slider weights, a complete BBK, the uni windshield, a battery, carb jets, headlights, and more, and have never had a single issue. I'm sorry to hear about your experience, but I do believe it was an aberration. The only other scooter parts dealer I've ordered from is tvnacman, and he definitely stands behind his parts! |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 5, 2015 9:48:11 GMT -5
Right on! I hope you enjoy the ride!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 5, 2015 2:16:45 GMT -5
One note for the OP: If you're having issues with LEDs blinking, it may be due to a lack of enough load rather than too much overall draw on the system. Many times you have to add a resistor to the circuit when switching to LED lights.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 4, 2015 14:36:06 GMT -5
Don't order that one, unless the seller can verify it's size. Go to one of the sites in our banner ads at the top of the page. They are trusted sellers, and will list their jets by sizes.
Is your scooter a 50 or 150 cc? We can tell you the standard size pilot jet to get, and if you don't mind spending a few extra bucks, you might order one size larger for safety.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 4, 2015 11:59:49 GMT -5
By the way, as soon as it cools down in 2 hours ill make them both .004 instead and see what that does. Thanks for the suggestion! Two hours is not enough time for a complete cool down of all the expanded metal parts, which you need when dealing with such small clearances. Generally speaking, you want to let it cool down overnite before setting your valves, it's a first thing in the morning sort of maintenance, which is why most home mechanics do it on the weekend. As for the air intake, is your airbox attached to the carb? If it is, I'll wait for alleyoop to chime in on the tuning, he's a genius at that stuff. If the airbox is not attached, or has leaks anywhere, fix that first. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 4, 2015 11:55:56 GMT -5
For anyone interested in what the difference is full wave and half wave, here's a short but good article with diagrams that explains it well: www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_6.htmlBasically, your headlights flicker at low RPM in an AC system (lights not on with key on, only with engine on) due to only half the power being converted to DC in a standard half wave rectifier. A full wave R/R could lower your cost of replacement items such as headlights, so it could be a good investment if the additional costs are not too significant. Personally, I would prefer to make extra power available by reducing the existing drain, using LEDs is one such option. A radical idea: For the expense and trouble of modifying your stator to work with a full wave R/R, you could use thermal tiles on the exhaust system and a joule thief circuit to run all lights but the headlights, freeing up a lot of juice! |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 4, 2015 0:02:25 GMT -5
That clogged pilot jet explains the problem, but don't assume it's the only thing clogged. Be sure you can spray through every single port, then follow alleyoop's tuning guide step by step. Depending on what clogged the jet, I would consider an entire fuel system flush out. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 3, 2015 23:55:38 GMT -5
Well whatever route you choose, I hope you and your friends enjoy the ride!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 3, 2015 23:53:04 GMT -5
Wow, I'm glad to hear you are healing! I hope you continue to heal fast and strong, and get back on that horse soon!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 3, 2015 23:24:33 GMT -5
Seriously, a tear down is the only thing I see working for you. I mean taking the plastics off, removing the wheels, removing the front end, and removing the engine. Once that is done, the only part large enough to be difficult to stuff somewhere is the frame, and it could be put between those bicycles on that rack pretty easily and safely, the rest can be stuffed wherever you have space. Otherwise, you're looking at losing money by paying for shipping or modding your hitch + cost of trailer, or selling your scooter and hoping to find a replacement later (you could get lucky and come out ahead with a good sell and smart buy, but that's another discussion).
If I had to spend the money, I would do the hitch modification, it would be worthwhile in the long run.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 3, 2015 20:53:57 GMT -5
You cold do a full tear down and strap everything on top of one of the vehicles being driven there. Only takes about 2 hours to do a full tear down on most scooters.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 3, 2015 20:47:56 GMT -5
So..... after a few days and trying different settings and the suggested settings over and over, it's still not there. Here's what the end results have been so far; if it starts fine, revs fine, and idles fine, I have NO power when I actually try to ride it... as in can't get out the driveway. After adjusting the gap smaller it will start fine with a little sputter during idle and will not rev past 3k without bogging out. If i cover the air inlet on the box the revs go SLIGHTLY up while I have the throttle open but heres where I get confused.... if I take my hand on and off the inlet in 1 second intervals, after 2 or 3 times the rpm shoot WAY up fast as lightning!?!... I just went back to the .004, .005 and it started up, idled for about 5 minutes, then stalled and wont start back up for the last 10 minutes. I thought this would be an in-and-out kinda job. Why would it be giving me soo much trouble? I really thought I was 98% there untill the no power thing, and even then I figured a simple adjustment of the A/F screw would dial me in. No such luck! OK, you have your valves set now, good. Next you need to truly tune your carb. Follow this tuning guide by alleyoop, and be sure you do the driving tests as well, not just the idle tests: itistheride.boards.net/thread/12/4ts-carb-tuning?page=1If you still have trouble, then it's either an intermittent spark issue, a loss of compression, or a vacuum/air leak. We'll go through them one by one AFTER you follow the tuning guide. It's important to troubleshoot step by step and not jump around with every suggestion offered, even if the suggestion seems to help (there could be more than one issue, and proper troubleshooting steps can determine that). |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 3, 2015 2:20:18 GMT -5
Here's the thread. I'm sorry DM but there is no full wave stator. A stator produces AC current, either through two wires that are at each end of all of the coils, or a white and yellow wire where the white is the long wire through the coils, and the yellow which is center tapped on the white. Read this thread. The full or half wave part comes into play with the rectifier. It either rectifies just half of the waveform or the full waveform with a bridge rectifier. Just because a stator doesn't have a magneto coil to generate AC power for an AC CDI does not mean it's a DC stator or a full wave stator. It means it's a stator that generates AC power that does not have a magneto coil. Just because a stator has a magneto coil to generate energy for an AC CDI does not mean it's an AC stator or a half wave stator. A stator is a stator, it generates AC current, so does the magneto coil if it's present. There's no half wave or full wave stator, no DC stator. They are AC making devices, what you do with the current after that is your choice. You can have a stator with a magneto coil and not use the magneto coil, it's still an AC stator. You just choose to run a DC CDI off of the battery and let the magneto coil screw off like my step son. You can use the magneto coil to power an AC CDI and force it to work which is like pulling teeth with Pete (my stepson  ). The trigger coil is a completely separate entity from the stator, it has nothing to do with the stator. It only makes low level AC current for the CDI to initiate the spark. Thanks, your google foo strong! And thanks for the detailed explanation as well! |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 3, 2015 2:12:58 GMT -5
My newish Focus has some sort of CVT tranny. But it still definitely shifts, so I'm not sure how it works in there. >'Kat Yeah, google "ford focus cvt" and you'll find that not all manufacturers have come as far as some others! There are several law firms attempting to round up enough consumers to file a class action case against them. Who knows, maybe the threat of lawsuits will convince them to lease better technology from some of the other manufacturers. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 2, 2015 20:44:49 GMT -5
My uncle remembers a dude near Fort Hood had one of those things...took 2 guys to start it, and he ran it on a mix of methanol, hydrazine, castor oil...and nitromethane. Damn thing would run about a mid-5-second 1/8 mile. (Of course, it usually needed an IFO by the third run.) Another guy had a pair in a homemade dune buggy...it would do a wheelie in sand with paddle tires. Bloody insane! About the same time, he had a bike...it was BIG, everybody was amazed. It was a Matchless...a whopping 600cc. (Well, that was big then...) I grew up in Killeen right next to Ft Hood. I remember some pretty cool customs on the dirt tracks there, and the local Hog chapter had so much chrome lined up on the streets when they rode through you could shave and do your hair standing on the sidewalk! Good memories, thanks for bringing them up! |
|
