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Post by JerryScript on Jan 30, 2015 7:11:14 GMT -5
Best to start a new thread for a separate problem.
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 29, 2015 20:24:25 GMT -5
Bloody Tapatalk telling me "You don't have permission to post to this board" Anyway, how long do I need to hold it for it to be considered "warmed up?" I have to rev the throttle to get it started. If I hold the throttle barely open it dies. I'll test the enricher shortly. Can you keep it idling, either on it's own or with a steady hand on the throttle (not twisting it, just holding it at some position)? I'm trying to determine if there is a vacuum or other air leak, which is often indicated by a non-steady idle (rising and falling RPMs without touching the throttle). |
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 29, 2015 20:15:47 GMT -5
Hey everyone. I'm new to the forum and this is my first post, so please go easy!  I just did a valve adjustment but I really don't know much about how the end result should sound.. I made a Youtube video 10 seconds long so you could hear what I mean... Any input? Sound OK? Too loose? Thanx in advance for any info you may have! It sounds just a bit loose to me, but that is actually OK. A slight bit loose will tighten up over time, the soft chinese alloy allows the valve to push into the head a bit, causing the valve stem to come out a bit further, which is why they tighten up over time. |
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 29, 2015 20:02:50 GMT -5
Once you get it started with extra throttle, and it warms up, will it idle then? If so, test your enricher by removing it and jumping the wires to the battery. It should expand within 3-5 minutes at least a 1/4". If it doesn't, take a pic of it so we can try to determine if it's stuck out or in. If it works, on to the next thing to check.
Also, if you hold the throttle barely open, can you get a steady RPM, or does the engine speed rise and fall even when holding the throttle steady? If so, it's most likely a leak in on of the vacuum lines, the intake manifold, or airbox-to-carb tube.
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 29, 2015 19:49:51 GMT -5
I think you need to adjust your dropbox settings to make the images visible here, but I'm not real familiar with dropbox, so I'm not sure. It's easier to use some of the other photo hosting sites such as PhotoBucket or TinyPic.
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 29, 2015 10:48:20 GMT -5
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 29, 2015 2:06:32 GMT -5
I'm sure most forum members have seen this video, it shows just how dangerous it is to allow anything other than the wheels to touch the ground while in a turn, even your feet. Notice that he doesn't loose traction until the moment his foot touches the ground (about 36 second mark in the video), taking just enough weight off the wheel to make it loose traction.
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 27, 2015 20:16:53 GMT -5
Before it started getting too cold, I started working with my American Bulldog Fraya, teaching her to ride on the floorboard of my scoot.  Fraya is a beauty! Reminds me of my Daisy, she loved the air in her face! Hope you have many miles to share together! |
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 27, 2015 0:42:44 GMT -5
I've posted this before , but the first time I checked my speedo yrs ago I drove next to a car with GPS , as they hit 50 I was right at 50 and the top speed was 67 on the gps" is there room for error , yes " from then on I went by radar signs, most times the speedo matched the signs " and im sure the speedo was off as the tires wore down to threads. When it comes down to it my speedo seems more accurate then ever " is it that the radar signs have been calibrated ? " and even with the bigger tires I'm reaching 67+ on straight runs on the speedo. I did have to drop in roller weights with the new koso " same time I replaced the tires" . there are a lot of different variables when it comes to tunning the CVT with bigger tires and a different variator . when it comes to the speedo accuracy from the results I've had its more then likely I'm at a point where the speedo is at this point 100% correct , even if the earlier results were 1 or 2 mph off the new tires brought that back to dead accurate. How many years ago did you have such bad results? GPS has become much more accurate over the years thanks to the government easing restrictions on it's accuracy, and the launch of a new generation of satellites over the past decade. Significant improvements were authorized for civilian use as recently as 2009, before that 2005 saw the first modernized GPS satellites launched marking a huge improvement for military and civilian use, and in 2000 selective availability was essentially discontinued meaning civilians could receive non-degraded signals worldwide. |
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 26, 2015 19:59:27 GMT -5
Then run it under the carb's air box intake. The only place upwards is ok is that last section going into the carb. If it goes up then back down, no good, down then back up at the end only will be ok.
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 26, 2015 19:55:03 GMT -5
I would look into a slightly larger R/R since you upgraded your stator.
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 26, 2015 0:08:31 GMT -5
Need a bit more info about the LED headlights you are using. Do they have a built in resistor?
There is never going to be a smooth perfect 12v, at least not with some expensive extra equipment. It's a stator generating the power at various RPMs, so cheap circuits will not produce clean perfect current. You may be able to solve your issue with a stator upgrade, but we really need some more info about the mods you have already made (like the LED headlights).
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 26, 2015 0:04:20 GMT -5
It's hard to tell from those pics, but it looks like the fuel line goes down, then up, then back down again. If I'm seeing it right, you need to use zip ties to make the entire length run down, never going back up. You don't have enough suction to keep an upward bend full via siphoning, it has to all be downhill.
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 25, 2015 15:33:39 GMT -5
This is the coolest toy truck I have ever seen. It's a hand built Peterbilt model, strong enough to pull a pickup truck with the operator standing on the back of the model truck!!! AWESOME!
The truck is all hand built at 1:4 scale, powered by a 12V battery, has a mini compressor, real trumpet horns, a smoke machine and a crazy 1200 watt sound system that can rock your neighborhood. There are books and plans available in the comment section of the video on youtube if you want to build one yourself:
I WANT ONE!!!
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 25, 2015 14:17:50 GMT -5
How many pieces of acrylic did you get? I got two pieces, and mounted both. Together they hold up fine to the wind, individually I can't imagine they would. I do not know if I was supposed to get two pieces of plastic or not, may have been an accident when they pulled the parts. I cruise at 40-45 with some flex to the windshield, but not enough to be an issue.
One thing you can try to do is rotate the mounting brackets, and screw the mounting bolts into the brackets in a way that creates as much of a bend as possible in the acrylic. The more bend, the more stability.
BTW- If the plastic mounting pieces that wrap around the poles and screw to the windshield break, use plumbers tape to replace them. Heck, replace them before they break with plumbers tape and you'll have more positioning options available.
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