|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 8, 2015 13:01:42 GMT -5
Three steps to riding safe:
1- Gear up every time
2- Slow down in danger zones
3- Don't expect anyone will see you
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 8, 2015 12:49:45 GMT -5
Some systems work on magnetism, some based on weight, new systems work on motion detection. Some older systems also have a strobe light detector that can be activated by flashing your high-beams, but I think those are pretty rare now days due to public abuse. Some people have strapped magnets to the bottom of their scooters and reported success.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 8, 2015 12:35:10 GMT -5
Jerry, if you're already going to have a friend weld it on, why are you bothering with the EGR port in the first place?  Just drill out a new hole and weld the bung on... Way easier than messing with that EGR port IMO. Those 45* look too long... They don't look like they would allow the sensor tip to get down into the exhaust flow.... Just trying to keep it clean. IF there is a perfectly good hole there already, I wouldn't want to make another. I'm not going to make a decision on mounting till I have parts in hand, and can determine the best orientation for everything. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 8, 2015 11:12:36 GMT -5
In many places there are laws specifically about texting while driving, and yet the same jurisdiction might have no laws about applying makeup. I have had more than one close call with a lady attempting to look in her vanity mirror as she puts on her makeup! That's why many jurisdictions are creating generic distracted while driving laws to as a catch-all for various types of dangerous activity behind the wheel.
Note- I've never seen a motorcycle rider attempting to apply her makeup on her bike, but I'm sure it has happened!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 8, 2015 11:04:41 GMT -5
Thanks for the info dmartin95. Perhaps I could use a 45 degree bung, would that be pointed down enough? It would be easier than attempting an off angle tap. I did a double take of the pic you provided and it got me thinking, I'm not sure how well your plan would work, even using a *45...... When I first looked at your pic, I was thinking of just whacking the end off, low enough so the tip would be in your exhaust flow... thread it right into the pipe and not use a bung... Of course you need to know the diameter of the pipe, I can get ya measurements of the o2 sensors threaded area if ya need... The bung is just an exhaust port and you don't need it, you only need something to thread the o2 sensor into.... As far as adding to that pipe....Not so sure how well that would work... I would advise completely removing it, if, and only if, you feel confidant you can remove all the weld build up around the new hole... You will need a nice and smooth surface to have your bung welded to.... If I were you, I would start with getting a measurement of the diameter of that egr port.... Is it angled towards the ground? The EGR port runs straight along ground level. I was planning on cutting the tube off with just enough meat to thread a bung into for mounting the O2 sensor. They make 45 degree bungs just for O2 sensor mounting. There are cutoff ones like this for welding on:  And threaded ones like this that I was thinking of trying since I don't have a welding righ:  There are also  degree bungs, but I'm not sure I could make one fit: UE9s3wBnF5BQU6tzfD)Q~~60_58.JPG) If necessary, I'll ask a friend to weld one on, should cost me more than a 12 pack. If I can tap it instead, then I can plug it back up much easier if things don't work out. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 8, 2015 10:55:18 GMT -5
Jerry my understanding is that the sensor needs to be in the stream of the exhaust gas . If your muffler and engine pipe is all one piece , use what you have . If they are separate buy another engine pipe to work with on the bench . Keep your scooter running while figuring things out . Is this for the new scooter ? John Thank for the advice John! Yes I'm thinking of doing this to the new scooter, so long as it doesn't cost me more than $100. Most of the kits I see are around $150, but I'm thinking of just purchasing an O2 sensor and scavenging a cheap volt meter for the display. Worst case scenario, if it doesn't work right I'll have to put a plug over the hole just like I did with the EGR port. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 8, 2015 10:51:34 GMT -5
Nice looking scooter! I hope you have as much fun as I do riding it to work every day! Check your local laws, in some places it's ok to drive through a red light if your scooter doesn't trigger the signal after a certain amount of time (varies place to place).
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 8, 2015 1:14:20 GMT -5
I agree with dmartin95, the location should work. The orientation will be critical to avoid moisture. Ensuring that you have no leaks in the pipe is also critical. If you have any the readings will trend toward the lean side. When I installed my sensor I noticed a weld point that was leaking from poor construction. Once I fixed it my readings were much better. Thanks JoeyBee. What do you think of a 45 degree bung at the point the tube enters the pipe? I'll cut it of with just enough meat to tap a bung. I don't think there's enough clearance above to go with a straight tap at a good angle, hoping the 45 degree bung still gets the tip in far enough to be accurate. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 8, 2015 1:11:53 GMT -5
Jerry, I would say that would be fine, as long as it's the right angle.You have to make sure the bottom-tip of the o2 sensor is pointing towards the ground... This prevents moisture from pooling on the sensor.... Your distance IMO is fine, just make sure orientation would be bottom of o2 sensor pointing downward. Thanks for the info dmartin95. Perhaps I could use a 45 degree bung, would that be pointed down enough? It would be easier than attempting an off angle tap. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 8, 2015 0:24:11 GMT -5
Need some advice from anyone with an O2 sensor installed. I have an unused EGR port that is currently blocked off with a plate. Is it possible to cut the tube down and install an O2 sensor there, or is that too far away from the exhaust port? Here's a pic:  |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 7, 2015 20:16:42 GMT -5
Yep, the way it spools up and down like there wasn't any kind of a load to contend with, spins the cvt and rear wheel like they weren't even there, that puppy has some power. Im gonna try like heck too get mine to sound like that,,not too sure it ever will,,he has all that taida stroker stuff on it,,plus its a few mm bigger,,but I will try!! If you want to play you gotta pay$$. It's the snappiness of the response that you want, and it doesn't matter if it's stroked or not. The instantaneous up and down of the RPMs in response to the quick blips on the throttle is the result you are looking for when adjusting your a/f screw. If it hangs after rising instead of dropping right down, you are too lean. If it hesitates rising, or drops down below idle when released and then rises back up, you are too rich. If you can't attain instantaneous response with a/f screw adjustments, you need to re-jet the idle jet. Note- always adjust your idle up about 500-700 rpms higher than normal while adjusting a/f screw, then lower to standard idle speed afterwards. Once instantaneous response when blipping from idle is achieved, and you don't have any bogging when accelerating through mid-high speed range (if you are, adjust the needle clip accordingly, or add/remove spacers), you can do plug chops to determine if your needle and main jet are properly sized and adjusted. Too white means too lean, coffee-chocolate brown is good, dark brown to black is too rich. If you cannot achieve a good plug color with needle clip/spacer adjustments, you need to re-jet the main jet. Finally, use slight adjustments (1/8-1/4 turn, no more) to the a/f screw based on response when you release the throttle 1/8-1/4 turn, if speed increases you are too lean, if the engine stumbles and recovers you are too rich . |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 7, 2015 19:33:56 GMT -5
Most responsive gy6 I've ever heard!  |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 7, 2015 19:16:35 GMT -5
If you still have to restrict your air intake, then you are running too lean. You need to either adjust the a/f screw out, or if it is already more than 2.5 turns out, you need to get a larger pilot jet.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 7, 2015 17:47:20 GMT -5
Generally speaking yes, but I'll defer to alleyoop's 4TS carb tuning guide, it has never steered me wrong. During testing, when you do your high speed runs, if you bog when you open the throttle you usually need to raise the needle (the diaphragm needle). If you have raised the needle as high as you can, and you still bog or your plug chop doesn't look good, you need a larger main jet. Here is a good article on jetting from a jet retailer: www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_rejetting_101_how_to_rejet.htmAnd here is Mikuni's VM Carburetor Super Tuning Manual: www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 7, 2015 14:26:50 GMT -5
I agree, it only takes a few minutes to properly gap them, so why not do it right. And yes, half way down the jug is a good position to check them at.
I also agree that a ring clamp is the best way to get the piston into the jug without messing up the rings. That taper is really not enough to ensure the rings don't bind or twist during installation without compressing them with a clamp. I did my BBK without a ring clamp, and it took me 20 minutes to get them in safely, mostly because of the awkward positioning you have to get in when working on the engine inside the frame.
|
|
degree bungs, but I'm not sure I could make one fit:
