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Frozen throttle
by: onewheeldrive - Jan 22, 2018 18:24:34 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by onewheeldrive on Jan 22, 2018 18:24:34 GMT -5
2017 taotao lancer 150, whenever the temp dips below freezing the throttle locks, works again above freezing. Took it off lubricated well to no avail, ordered new one, any ideas  yes, replace the cable. the wire inside theses cables is made of a bundle of finer wires. these fine wires will rust and break over time and will eventually "ball up" inside the sheath. throttle cables should be adjusted for about a quarter inch play on the throttle grip. I had that happen near the carb. It was frayed. Not fun when you let off the gas and hit the brakes, only to have the scoot keep going cuz the throttle is stuck open. |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jan 7, 2018 20:01:12 GMT -5
Boos, drugs, and..... throw cell phones into the mix.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jan 7, 2018 19:56:50 GMT -5
I still have yet to ride a motorcycle by myself. Been on the back of a few but that’s it, lol.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jan 3, 2018 2:27:07 GMT -5
Plumbers. They look for ghosts at night. Huh?? Electrician, easy peasy. He messes up, things go really bad really fast for him. Plumber messes up, things just get wet. Yeah things can definitely get A LOT crappier for an electrition. |
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Happy New Year
by: onewheeldrive - Jan 2, 2018 1:26:41 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by onewheeldrive on Jan 2, 2018 1:26:41 GMT -5
Happy New Year.
It’s -12F here at the moment just after 1:00AM. That’s about as cold as it’s supposed to get and hopefully after this week, no more below zero temps. At least this coming Sunday it’s supposed to be in the low 30s, which is easily tolerable. Hopefully next week it’ll get in the 40s (for a high) and melt some of this snow, lol.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jan 1, 2018 5:05:44 GMT -5
I think I’ll always wear a full face, I always have anyway (well 98% of the time). I like the way they look. IMO, I think they look better than all the “less safe” looking helmets out there, in general.
Vision wise, do you guys think you see better wearing a full face riding a scoot or driving a car? I guess it depends on the situation?
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Post by onewheeldrive on Dec 29, 2017 4:20:33 GMT -5
I love the idea of the pressure indicator valve caps, but... I bought a pair and found putting one on my REAR tire hits the disk-brake caliper... BUMMER! The ONLY gripe I have with my Kymco is the rear valve-stem placed on the driver's RIGHT (curb) side! It is SO close to the disk, caliper and exhaust that it's a MAJOR PIA to even check the pressure... To fill the tire, it requires an old-school hose with angled tip. Those are few and far between, so I got a screw-on right-angle extension made for bicycles. It works great, but is still a pain... If Kymco would have placed the stem on the LEFT side of the rim, it would be EASY to check and inflate... Oh well, if THAT is the only gripe I can find on a 10-year-old scoot, I'm probably too picky... LOL! I’d be tempted to just replace the valve stem and then angle the new one to where it was best positioned, BEFORE the next tire change, lol. Not sure if it’d be worth the trouble though... |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Dec 18, 2017 2:23:10 GMT -5
It’s easy to space off checking tire pressure, that’s for sure. My tires could have 10psi in both and you can’t even tell by looking.
I actually rode 10 miles home from work on 10psi last summer and thought my engine or tranny was taking a dump since I was doing about 15mph less than normal.
Obviously it handled crappier, but I wasn’t putting 2 and 2 together. I was driving it home anyway (maybe, lol). Honestly it couldn’t have been too much better the days leading up to it!
It’s definitely best to check with a gauge or at the very least by hand every once in awhile. Honestly, my tires don’t stay in the 30s for long. I could fill it to 34 and a week or two later I bet it’s in the high 20s, maybe lower.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Oct 12, 2017 23:10:44 GMT -5
Maybe check for some corrosion at the wire connectors coming off the stator. I had some corrosion on the bullet connectors coming off the stator once that caused my spark to look yellow/orange and it wouldn't start. I wouldn't say there was a ton of corrosion to cause that problem either. I wound up just replacing the connectors and it started again, and the spark looked blue afterward.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Oct 11, 2017 1:06:25 GMT -5
That issue you mentioned about the "v" guides is a pet peeve I have with these Chinese scooters. I want replacement parts that, well, you know, replace the worn-out ones. Not entirely sure what the deal is. I assume I'm getting copies of copies of copies and minor spec changes occurred somewhere down the line. I buy a part and get some 3rd generation Chinese copy of it which isn't quite the same as the original anymore. I sometimes wonder if that's why there are two different cylinder heads for the same engine. Some of the parts differences could be because they are made in different factories. That reminds me of a time when I rebuilt the engine replacing the crank, and the top end while I was at it. I got the crank in and the case halves back together with a new gasket and sealer and when I went to put the oil pump gear back on afterwards, the teeth on the sprocket (drives oil pump gear) of the new crank wouldn't match up to the teeth on the oil pump gear. The old crank had a 22 tooth sprocket (first I ever heard of that) while the new one had a 16 tooth sprocket. At the time, that was the first I'd ever heard of it. You could look for a 139qmb crank on all the popular part sites, and they only had one style of crank and it was the "common" 16T crank--and they weren't even listed as 16T, as if there was only one kind. The same one everyone else stocked. I think I found maybe two sites eventually that had the 22T, at least here in the states. Neither of them were vendors of this forum, although I know at least one of the vendors here now eventually stocked both, the 16T and the 22T. It definitely took a lot more searching than usual, especially since the two sites weren't places I've ordered from before. It's not a big deal now, but at the time it was just one of those things that came "out of the blue". One of those things that were never mentioned in scooter forums, so it took me by surprise-- especially since I rebuilt it once before. I'm not gonna lie, I was pretty p'd off in the moment when I first realized the problem. Of course all I had to do to resolve the issue was swap the gears off, but in the heat of the moment with the crank in the case already I didn't even think of it. I will say though, getting the gear off the crank was easy. Getting the gear on was a bit trickier and is something I'd recommend doing BEFORE it's in the case already. That's one thing I do is warn people when they say they are replacing the crank. Count the teeth there are differences, and even the oil pump/gear setup is different depending on the crank sprocket tooth count, lol. So it's not like I could've just swapped the oil pump and gear out itself, I had to swap the sprockets. It makes me wonder if there is some sort of code or marking on the engine somewhere that will tell you whether the 22T or 16T is installed, because the case is slightly different in the oil pump area. |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Oct 10, 2017 19:22:43 GMT -5
Looks like all the parts are trashed. Clutch has broken spring mount. Rollers have flat spots all over and Variator cover is missing 2 sliders. Anyone know the weight of the stock rollers? Most are in the 8.5g range. I have ordered a complete variator kit that came with much lighter weights before, but maybe only once or twice. Almost always they are 8.5g on average, whether they came with the engine or in a replacement variator. |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Oct 8, 2017 2:44:38 GMT -5
Most people on scooters near me don’t really wave or honk or say anything.
Most people that initiate conversation with me are people that are curious about scoots and are thinking of possibly buying one. They usually ask how much did my scoot cost, how many mpg, how fast it goes, do you need a license, insurance, registration ...etc, which I’m sure most of us have been asked at some point.
I still get compliments on my scoot from time to time, which actually makes me feel good since I’ve had it for 8.5 years and over 70,000km. Definitely some scrapes, stripped body panel screw holes, several broken panel tabs, and some “matching” yellow duct tape holding the panels in place near the keyhole that opens my seat at the rear. Missing both of the smaller, long rectangular panels on each side of the floorboard— I still have them though.
Anyway, usually (almost always) it’s the people on motorcycles that wave when I’m riding. There aren’t any scoot clubs in town here. There just isn’t, or atleast openly, a sense of “family” or a group with a common interest amongst scooterists. It’s more like “hey, that guy/gal rides a scoot, too. Cool!” and we ride on.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Oct 7, 2017 2:12:33 GMT -5
Well the first time it happened, I heard a metallic sound coming from the CVT and I would say that the CVT sounded a bit louder in general. The whole variator was shot though, that’s the problem. I mean the “v” guides were obliterated, the posts that the “v” guides ride on were basically gone, along with the inner diameter of the variator worn out severely. So honestly I can’t really tell you how it would sound from just the inner diameter being worn— singled out from the rest of the massacre. See here I made a thread about it awhile back: itistheride.boards.net/thread/7749/texas-variator-massacreNot all “v” guide sets are made the same either. At one time, I owned 3 slightly different sets (3x3) that each set fit differently, and visually each set had a different appearance. I like to have spare sets to have on hand. I made a thread about that, too. Here’s that thread: itistheride.boards.net/thread/8396/all-variator-guides-same |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Oct 6, 2017 21:29:47 GMT -5
Good! Hopefully all is well now.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Oct 2, 2017 0:55:38 GMT -5
Well at least it’s running better.
In my opinion, the sound in the “Weird noise after crank replacement” video you posted doesn’t sound like anything I’ve heard from a variator before. Of course I don’t know everything though.
I’ve ridden with loose, tight, cracked, new, old, and/or half intact “v” guides and recently rode about five miles from a strangers house with 1.5 of the 3 “v” guides after my belt snapped, to get my scoot home until parts arrived.
Another thing that can happen is the inner diameter of the variator will wear over time. So it’ll have a “wobbly” effect when that happens. When you stick the approx 2in “slide bushing” (another part that probably has a different name on every part website) in there, there will be play over time. Still though, I’ve had that happen a couple times and it didn’t make a sound like in the video I mentioned above (that you posted) nor did it sound like I had a bad crank bearing.
Sometimes it’s tough to rule things out. These scoots like to throw curveballs, especially when you think you may have seen or heard it all, lol.
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