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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 14, 2014 18:00:10 GMT -5
You CAN get quite an impressive amount more acceleration out of any scooter if you install all the goodies short of internal engine work...
I have a 50 yard stretch of decent uphill grade pulling out of my neighborhood... using the street at the top of the hill as a marker, my 150 gained about 15mph on that stretch from stock with 'bolt-on' mods (and tuning), but never got anymore top speed. I didn't want it anyway. NO 150cc should be on a 55mph+ highway, I don't care what it is or how it's modded. Just because you're brave enough to do it, doesn't make it a good idea! 150's are well out of steam by then - struggling to keep up with 60mph traffic is NOT FUN!!!
My 150 could pull away from traffic on 45mph roads (not just slowpokes) - that and spunky acceleration are the only goals a 150 should have. If you want to hit the highway and want to play around at 55-65mph, get a 250cc.
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 14, 2014 11:29:22 GMT -5
The transmission hose is a vent too. They probably both went into the stock intake tube. They don't have to be connected to anything, but you will want to stick the loose end in a catch can if it is dribbling condensed oil vapors out.
You dont need to buy a non-ER valve cover, it may not even fit an EGR head. Just remove all the pieces and be sure to block off the port coming off the head.
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 14, 2014 11:24:05 GMT -5
You will never see 70-80mph on a 150cc... they run out of steam at 55mph.
Just because some people can get to a Chinometer 65mph downhill with back-wind, doesn't mean the scooter has any usable power left at that speed.
Do you want better take-off or better top speed? You can't have both, and they are actually a trade-off.
A bigger carb isn't going to do squat unless you install a BBK.
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 14, 2014 11:14:05 GMT -5
I think you'd have to disassemble the thing to defeat the tone. You could just find the flasher and wrap some tape around where the sound comes out, that should at least muffle it to a tolerable level.
My 150cc had an audible signal, I kinda liked it, I never forgot to turn it off... lol
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 2, 2014 11:54:57 GMT -5
Why don't you like the seat? I thought mine was fine. I'm parting mine out if you need anything, lol
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 1, 2014 11:03:10 GMT -5
yeah, 2.99 an hour? Its an april fools joke guys, roflmao
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Post by ltdhpp on Mar 30, 2014 11:18:31 GMT -5
I'd start with a compression check. Are you using fresh gas?
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Post by ltdhpp on Mar 29, 2014 14:29:50 GMT -5
You have to remove the rear pulley and remove the clutch from the torque sheave, it's held on by a huge nut. I don't know how yours specifically comes apart, but once you separate some pieces you will find the sliding torque sheave. Its a few notches with some pins in it that slide/twist as the pulley halves open. It actually has nothing to do with the clutch, it's just common to call the entire rear pulley assembly the 'clutch' or 'clutch pulley'.
Only lube (use high temp grease) the slot/pins in the area inside the grease seal. You should see two thin 0-rings inside the piece you remove to expose the sliding sheave.
If the sheave gets dry/sticky enough to not open, you will be stuck in low gear.
Absolutely nothing associated with the actual clutch needs lubrication.
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Post by ltdhpp on Mar 28, 2014 18:07:31 GMT -5
Slight variation from stock shouldn't hurt reliability at all, especially with quality rollers. I'd just go a little lighter than stock since you do mostly in-town.
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Post by ltdhpp on Mar 24, 2014 21:54:28 GMT -5
What is the indented use of that contraption? Hopefully more than just a general utility cart???
I hope the spare tire it carries is for the trailer - extended high rpm in Nevada heat will be the quick death of any tire/bearing 'not intended for highway use'
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Post by ltdhpp on Mar 24, 2014 21:43:12 GMT -5
You'd have to drill out the holes and re-cut the threads to use larger bolts. You could try some thread-cutting screws (they make them with bolt heads) but how well they hold up will depend on how well the muffler can is mounted and how much vibration it sees.
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Post by ltdhpp on Mar 21, 2014 12:09:16 GMT -5
Using polarized shaded glasses helps a lot. Make sure they are 'safety' spec glasses. I use a pair of Dewalt polarized safety shades, I love them.
It's still hard though when the sun is 'just right'... I have to tip my head down so the little visor on my helmet will help.
They make 'driving' glasses that are supposed to help with glare, but I doubt they are safety spec. If you use them behind a full visor you are good to go.
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Post by ltdhpp on Mar 20, 2014 11:53:30 GMT -5
My $99 exhaust sure woke my 150 up, after a larger main jet went in. You have to tune it right, but YES, it IS worth it.
Get one with a removable silencer or a small diameter outlet and you should not loose much back-pressure.
To get the full advantage of it, you need to pair it with a free-flow filter so it can get more air in AND out. Without being able to get more air in, you definitely wont feel much difference except the back-pressure you might loose.
*unless* you have one of those factory exhausts that chokes itself right at the header pipe, and some stock airboxes to flow very well with the inlet cap removed (if it has one).
Either way, you'll still need a larger main jet, which is not that hard to change.
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Post by ltdhpp on Mar 19, 2014 20:37:19 GMT -5
BUMP
Parting this out again, for real this time... sorry to anyone I left hanging/disappointed in the fall.
Having the Helix for a bit and the incident with the deer make me want even a backup/project scooter to be something a little more significant. I wanted to wait and dissect this 150cc and try to figure out what's going on with it, but it's worth more in parts than running, especially if I start spending time and money trying to figure it out.
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Post by ltdhpp on Mar 19, 2014 20:05:01 GMT -5
How does that headlight bolt in place? The headlight from my Helix is rectangular shaped and might fit in that hole... Its definitely not a universal type mount though.
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