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Post by ltdhpp on Jun 1, 2014 8:01:16 GMT -5
I would replace it if there is any chance of damage. You don't want to take any chances when it comes to brakes!
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Post by ltdhpp on Jun 1, 2014 7:26:05 GMT -5
You will be 10,000x better off than on a Chinese clone exaggerate much? while we're tossing numbers around i'll say 1.5X better off with a name brand scoot... i don't know much about the 250's. i have a 150cc jonway that i am very happy with. only problems i have had so far is carb need rejet and front brake light switch broke. 2,500km with no other problems so i don't mind a chinese scoot but i would buy a new honda if i had the cash. from what i have read the roketa 250cc 54 is a good choice on a 2k budget. ok ok, 10,000x is a bit much. More like 5,000x Just take a look around at all the nightmare threads regarding Chinese scooters, specifically the Reflex clones. This forum is only a year old, and It is full of them. Sure, I guess some people have good luck with them, or know enough to nurse them along and claim 'no troubles'... and there are also people with severe cases of denial that their scooter is a rattle-over-every-bump piece . Maybe they just have never ridden a Jap scoot and don't know that they aren't supposed to sound like they are going to fall apart over every manhole. I've ridden at least 6 China scoots and they ALL did. But how many nightmare clones DON'T get posted about? It take balls to admit you bought a piece of junk and ask for help on the internet. I could go on and on and on... HANDS DOWN - the quality, assembly, and longevity of a China scoot is pale in comparison to a Jap scoot. This is indisputable fact. The clone versions of scooters have less options/features (replacing good brakes with a shitty cheap stereo doesn't make up for it). Like I've said before, there's nothing wrong with buying/riding a China scoot, but you better like to, want to learn how, or have a buddy that can turn a wrench, because your gonna need to. Guaranteed. I know my rants may sound like I'm poo-pooing on China scoots, but I fee like its tragic that people are buying these things when there is something USED that is so much better just around the corner for just a little more money. One of my buddies bought a used Yamaha Vino 50cc for $1,100 - almost twice the price of a crate China 50cc, but in 3 years he has had to do NOTHING to it, besides get me to clean out the jets after he let it sit one winter. His buddy bought a China scoot at the same time, it would barely take him up a hill. He is now on his THIRD China scoot currently. |
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Post by ltdhpp on May 31, 2014 12:21:21 GMT -5
You can get a used Reflex for under 2,000 easy, and will be 10,000x better off than on a Chinese clone. The Reflex has more bells and whistles, on top of better quality everything.
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Post by ltdhpp on May 30, 2014 21:42:21 GMT -5
I picked up a used Honda Reflex for $1,200 with 20,000 miles on it and ABS. Now has 26,500. It has two headlights but both are 55 watt. A 35 watt headlight must be awfully dim. The bike has been pretty problem free but for the need for a new drive belt. I have never owned a Chinese made bike so its hard for me to compare quality between Japan and China. This. Instead of taking a gamble with your money (the odds are against you), you could get a used Reflex for LESS money after you factor in self-PDI supplies and the other upgrade-from-Chinese parts and other things you will be buying for it. A reflex has SO much more to offer, on top of Japanese quality. For the love of god, people need to start buying up all the Reflexes that the old folks are getting tired of. Mine was a 'got carried around on the back of a camper' queen before I got it at 6,000 miles. 10,000 now and only maintenance needs, and some body parts after KILLING a deer on it I HAVE owned two Chinese scooters, they were fun, GREAT learning experiences, but never again. |
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 21, 2014 11:54:01 GMT -5
@itdhpp: The truly simple issue here is that you are a troll. You feign helping others in a not-so-subtle attempt at flaming those who are actually trying to help. The only reason you post is to start a fight, not to help anyone. If I'm wrong about your intentions, and I hope I am and that I owe you an apology, you would not berate the others who are helping. You can correct someone without calling them names and making yourself look like an underage, overbearing, self-important, pretentious snob. ROFL... Find me ONE example where I 'started a fight' with ANYONE besides Alleyoop. My only problem is that he has claimed in several threads that 1K, 1.5K, and 2K torque spring will raise your clutch engagement by that many respective rpms, and that is simply not true. I understand now his reasoning based on his observation of putting his old worn out torque spring back in, and his is an erroneous extrapolated conclusion. Many, many people think that regurgitating information and re-posting someone else's pics makes them an expert. Sure, if you use the blanket approach to diagnostics, you succeed every now and then. And to the novice, sure, you seem like an expert. But to an expert, you seem like a desktop mechanic regurgitating information. Not claiming that I'm an expert, but I have done more to scooters and YES actually helped more people fix some things than most of the people on this forum. Just because I use big works doesn't make be pretentious  A true troll only flames for the sake of flaming. I have a REASON for countering his claims in an over-enthusiastic way, because I don't like the idea of people getting the wrong impression about how things work, and like I said, understanding how something works is the first step to making it do what you want. Also like I said, I encourage people to do their own research, and I challenge you to find ONE example (besides any of alleyoops past posts under different user names from different forums he has been BANNED from) of any iteration that supports his claim about the torque springs.. As far as calling people 'special' - I calls em like I sees em. |
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 19, 2014 10:08:27 GMT -5
Except for the fact that you have the spring ratings all wrong...
2K clutch springs open at 2K OVER STOCK!!!
A 2K torque spring makes the rear pully SHIFT at 2K OVER STOCK!!
all you have to do is look it up to find that out...
It seems you think that the torque spring rating has something to do with clutch engagement, it does not.
Just because ONE person but their WORN OUT stock torque spring back in and it changed the clutch engagement RPM, absolutely does not mean that a 1, 1.5, and 2K rpm torque spring will raise your engagement by those values.
It simply means that your worn out torque spring let your pulley open before engagement, that is all.
A performance GOAL is to KEEP that belt as high as you can before take-off for the best low gear possible.
I will agree that a WORN OUT torque spring could let the pulley open before engagement and change the ratio between the two pulleys, changing your observed clutch engagement, sure.
BUT, according to your idea, you think that swapping out new, stronger torque springs will let the pulley open to ANY degree before engagement is absurd.
A more proper version of your conclusion based on ONE observation that "torque springs change your clutch engagement" would be "MY clutch engagement dropped when I put my WORN OUT STOCK torque spring back in"
Projecting a conclusion to cover the far other end of a range of variables (tighter performance spring ratings) based on an observation of something from the opposite end (worn out spring) is ridiculous, so much so that its on this level:
Again, I encourage people to do their own research, instead of listening to one 'desktop mechanic' who extrapolates facts based on one thing he did himself many moons ago.
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 19, 2014 9:29:32 GMT -5
Typically the extra brake lights should be up high, but anything helps.
My avatar pic is what the back of my 150 looked like with the brakes on. Can't miss that... lol
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 18, 2014 6:52:49 GMT -5
Oh so let me get this right, the belt is sitting at the EDGE of the Clutch PULLEY the Belt is DOWN on the Variator and you start the motor and by your thinking the clutch should engage and be turning your wheel..LOL Um, why yes, that's exactly what happens, after the rear pulley spins enough to throw out the clutch arms, as determined by the strength of the clutch springs. The contra spring has nothing to do with it. Yes yes, thank you for re-explaining your incorrect idea. I guess the lesson of the day is to not listen to peoples self-educated hair brained idea of how a CVT works. Show me ONE video of the belt dropping down the rear pulley before the clutch engages. ONE! just one... you can't find it, because it doesn't happen. According to YOUR explanation, the belt starts to shift down the rear pulley before the scooter even moves... yeah, that makes more sense. Lets start out halfway in 2nd gear... sure... I HIGHLY recommend people do their own research on how a CVT works instead of listening to some of the 'special' folks here. You will NEVER properly tune a CVT until you understand how it works. |
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 17, 2014 23:20:46 GMT -5
Thank you geh3333 couldn't of explained it better myself. As soon as I took out the 1000 rated Contra spring the Rpms to engage the bell dropped little over 1000K because now the pulley opened and dropped the belt to turn the pulley faster. Alleyoop LOL... couldn't have said it better? I think you are right. Thank you for just proving my point even more. If your belt is dropping before the clutch engages, you've got it set up wrong, and you are loosing take-off power. |
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 17, 2014 23:17:49 GMT -5
Yes, I know how gear ratios work.
That would all almost make sense if the rear pulley opened before the clutch engages, and it does not (if it is set up right).
The belt has to and should stay at the absolute top of the rear pulley before the clutch engages to get the best ratio low gear.
So, if everything is set up correctly, the rear pulley does not even open until after the clutch engages, making the strength of the torque spring 100% insignificant to when the clutch engages, like I said!
I hope you understand.
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 17, 2014 16:45:44 GMT -5
It comes with a little stronger contra spring on it and the rpms needed to be around 3500 before they would be thrown out and grab the clutch bell. I did not like that so I put in the contra spring from the OEM clutch and now grabs the bell around 2300-2500 rpms which I like. Alleyoop I am still perplexed by your apparent misunderstandings about clutch and contra springs. The contra/torque spring has absolutely nothing do do with when the CLUTCH engages. The CLUTCH springs do that. The TORQUE/contra spring is what applies resistant pressure against the TORQUE sheave, changing how easily the rear pulley opens and closes. I ran the NCY 'blue' clutch in my 150cc, after 5-6,000 miles, it is almost completely worn out. It came as part of a complete CVT kit, all the other parts show hardly any wear. |
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 16, 2014 16:40:56 GMT -5
Did you check to make sure your torque sheave opens and closes smooth by squeezing it? If it gets stuck open it's like starting out in high gear. The torque spring shouldn't be worn out with only 1,100 miles.
I'd try the old belt again, if your new belt is a tad too long it could have stretched just enough to let it slip at take-off.
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 14, 2014 19:58:43 GMT -5
'Front cover' probably means the entire front nose piece of the body. Sounds like you pretty much have to take the whole front off to access the backsides of the headlamps to change the bulbs. If you can 'see' with your hands, you might be able to sneak your hand up from under the wheel arch openings and get it.
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 14, 2014 18:42:22 GMT -5
The hardest part is getting off the huge clutch nut - someone just posted videos on how to do that. After that everything just slides apart. Is it a 150cc GY6? I have a used NCY sheave already attached to the other half of the (Chinese) pulley from mine, I will match the lowest price you find for a new sheave AND throw in a NCY 1K torque spring AND a Malossi torsion controller (cuts down on harmonic vibrations you get from a tighter torque spring). ALSO I have an almost-worn-out NCY blue clutch you can have for another 10 bucks. It's got at least 500-1000 miles left in it, and would be a good way to tell if 'blue' (1K) clutch action is enough for you. The NCY clutch bell will cost ya though  I also have a used NCY complete variator, drive face, and a variety of generic (but good) sliders for sale... this offer is good for anyone if this guy doesn't want. I can have the items up on eBay tomorrow! |
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 14, 2014 18:10:14 GMT -5
Forgot to update my main thread for the Reflex... To make a long story short - I hit and killed a small deer doing around 35mph. I didn't go down, and it only did cosmetic damage. I avoid riding at dusk like the plague now. The new LED marker lights on the side flash alternately with the blinker, like the ones on the 150 did.     |
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