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Post by rexxk on Jul 5, 2014 21:57:43 GMT -5
looks like your belt isnt going all the way up to the top of your variator. and you where cutting in and out at top speed. you got the airbox hooked up right? and the air filter in? sometimes too light roller weights can make you get too high rpms and the belt not go all the way up to the top of the variator. it might bounce up and down. have you messed with the roller weights? how old are they?
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Post by rockynv on Jul 5, 2014 23:24:49 GMT -5
Yes start with the fuel system as the lobbing at high speed seems to be either a carb adjustment of possibly a sluggish fuel pump not keeping up. Try treating the next tank of fuel using Berrymans Fuel System Cleaner at the heavy dosage of 3 ounces per gallon or consider the Lucas top cylinder treatment as you could even have a sluggish valve that is closing a tad slowly from buildup of deposits on the stem. Being that you are a new rider and the bike is a 2005 you probably bought it used and it may have been sitting unused for some time before you got it.
After you have done the remedial heavy treatment of the fuel system which you may have to repeat for a number of tanks then consider adjusting things. Also before you adjust the fuel system you need to check the valves since if you adjust the carburetor before adjusting the valves most often you will have to go back and readjust the carburetor again.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 6, 2014 1:45:20 GMT -5
rexxk: The air filter and everything is hooked up right, but I AM planning on getting a different air hose. The one currently on it gets kinda skinny in the middle and I figure thats limiting the airflow. I have no idea about the roller weights. I can only guess that theyre whatever comes stock. rockynv: Ive treated almost every tank of fuel since I got the bike with seafoam. It says 1 ounce per gallon and Ive been going probably a bit more than that. It has definitely helped, but I get the feeling it would be unwise to mix two different fuel additives in the same tank at the same time. Ive been considering running some seafoam in the oil as well, since the bottle says that it can be used that way too. Are seafoam Berrymans and just different brands of the same product, or does Berrymans do something different to the engine?
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Post by rockynv on Jul 6, 2014 13:29:54 GMT -5
I found Berrymans more aggressive and better for engines that have sat a while. At 2 to 3 ounces per gallon it seems to clear things up that Seafoam leaves behind.
You do have to be careful using the Berrymans Dip and remove all the plastic and rubber parts before letting them soak overnight or they may be dissolved by morning, I have the one gallon Berrymans Dip with the basket inside it and lost the rubber needle valve seal on a Mikuni Carburetor which is pressed into a very expensive brass holder that is then pressed into the carbureator. The Dip just dissolved it and turned it into putty.
Z-Max on the other hand is a metal penetrant and microlubricant that really works to clean sludge and varnish from an engine to free up stuck valves, rings and can clean out restricted oil passages.
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 6, 2014 13:42:44 GMT -5
I totally disagree, his carb is fine and is not clogged right now he has a stumble at WOT and that is all. Did you people see him start it up and running. All this additive stuff is not needed and will not do a thing for his problem. In addition if after he starts it up and runs it and gets it nice and hot and when coming to stops if the motor comes down to idle and runs good his valves are fine. On the other hand if when the motor is hot and it wants to die at low idle then yes his valves need to be adjusted due to not sealing and loosing compression. With valves not sealing the motors will not hold low idle, they will only keep running at high idle.
That is my .02 on the subject.
Alleyoop
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Post by jerseyboy on Jul 6, 2014 21:56:53 GMT -5
I just wanted to add I got my 16/37 gears in today(bought the 20 ton HF shop press its awesome) and I love them,,it cruises great at 45(5200 RPM) and at 55 its about 6200-6500 RPM) I dont have a BBK yet so it needs quite a bit of throttle to keep cruising over 45 MPH..only down side I noticed is the clutch is taking a bit more of a beating from the taller gears at start off...might try a performance clutch and lower RPM spring in the future,,but heck,,once you up gear you will never go back,just take it easy at start off on your clutch and you will be fine!!!
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 6, 2014 22:36:57 GMT -5
Jersey, When you do get a Clutch get one with more pad material, here is the one I got, its the NCY clutch and I am pulling 350lbs trike plus my 180lbs. Alleyoop  |
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Post by Noneshere on Jul 7, 2014 1:52:04 GMT -5
Additives?
Bah, IMO,the only addition you get is a bogged up spark plug from that snake oil stuff.
Where do you think all that junk dose at the end of the line (...ground zero,drop zone)?
Petrifies in between the plug gap.
Soon as you run the next tank of fresh gas it will act up again usually.
Clean the plug and it's usually back to how it was running problematically again.
...On cars, getting to those plugs can be complicated ,
So, to an occupied mechanic ...treatment / additive recommendations often bring the vehicle back a little worse at a later time. Same with parts dealers pitching the "possible remedy" at the counter...they know your going to be back soon (somewhere) needing to still fix the problem. The snake oil pretty much makes sure of that on top of the existing cause.
They work somewhat, but only after the plugs get replaced or recleaned and gapped after doseage.
I myself don't use them verses going in and manually fixing the problem.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jul 7, 2014 7:44:02 GMT -5
Jersey, When you do get a Clutch get one with more pad material, here is the one I got, its the NCY clutch and I am pulling 350lbs trike plus my 180lbs. Alleyoop Thanks Alley! Will that slide right inside my stock bell or do I need to upgrade the bell? The one thats on there now doesn't look too bad,,its got the extra band of steel wrapped around the outside so it wont warp as fast... |
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 7, 2014 9:37:03 GMT -5
The NCY Clutch is a tad bigger and a little different as well, so if you get an NCY clutch you also need to get the Bell.
One more thing about the NCY clutch the Springs everyone sells are to long for that clutch. But there are other Clutchs out there with more material on the pads so you do not have to go with an NCY clutch.
Alleyoop
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Post by jerseyboy on Jul 7, 2014 9:45:24 GMT -5
Yeah,,
I was looking at different ones on ebay,,I may just wait till Walter gets his butt in gear with the new scooter parts store..that way i can get my BBK and clutch all at once from him..
Thanks again for the info!
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 7, 2014 18:06:32 GMT -5
I weigh around 210lbs and with my 8 yr old daughter who weighs around 75 lbs I only loose around 7 mph on a straight run .
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 7, 2014 18:10:14 GMT -5
Jersey, When you do get a Clutch get one with more pad material, here is the one I got, its the NCY clutch and I am pulling 350lbs trike plus my 180lbs. Alleyoop Exactly which ncy clutch is that ? I had the blue one that came with the ncy assembly , and I'd love to have more pad contact . |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jul 7, 2014 18:19:36 GMT -5
Im going to get this one,, I like the stock springs,,think they are 1K or 1.5,,my over all goal is to get my RPM down and cruising torque up,,man these gears really helped,,I can loaf along at 40 MPH taching 5K..lmao!!! This seller seems pretty good so far,,100% positive feedback,,and the parts look decent,,gonna try him for a while,,but I do need Walter to get in gear for my BBK  CLUTCH.. www.ebay.com/itm/161051770045?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITBELL.. www.ebay.com/itm/151061710397?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 7, 2014 18:26:42 GMT -5
You can get the ncy bell for 40.00 free shipping . the stock springs are 1k
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
